Mr B

As mentioned before you can buy a used alarm main unit and plug it in and program your fobs to it and set a new pin code for it if so wished. Only plus with that is remote locking be functional again . Downside is you still dealing with 20 year old european electronics and as it basically can leave you stranded it best pulled out and binned as saves same issue twice (siren board corroded/faulty by leaking P9 battery being super common). I done repairs both ways for customers (option tended to be driven by their preference on alarm and locking). you can add a remote locking system if pull alarm but that adds cost . A working M30 used module is cheapest fix with everything same as owners already use to . You can find used M30 modules pulled from Subarus for around 80 to 150 quid, it must come with pin or a working keypad ( I like a keypad with it as then you got a third keypad that can be used for parts in your key should one of yours fail and it generally easier programming using an existing remote than using pin code) . You got options and none are technically difficult or needs specialist equipment thus the cost to resolve it either way is not crazy money . If you half competent and can google info you could swap alarm module or even bypass it to get running as it really nothing more than cutting and joining some wires ...

Reality is it not that big an issue overcome one way or the other . Options are disabling the sigma m30 and bypassing immobiliser circuits (rejoining wires the 2 immobiliser circuits spliced into) . Trying to get the current Sigma working to some functional extent again or replacing the modules with known working used ones (needs be supplied with pin code and/or working fob allow easy programming). No need be a specialist in Subaru as this System is basically added after production line assembly and Sigma systems used on many vehicles in that era including a lot of euro cars . Basically any fairly competent auto electrician, alarm installer or decent mechanic can do this work as it nothing fancy and all you really need is a brain and a multimeter, wiring info is helpful but not a must . What I would do is do few basic things see if can get alarm to function, main thing that goes bad is the siren that located under the wiper plastic trim and sits in the cowl space, this has a P9 rechargable battery inside and they go bad and leak and decay the siren board causing various alarm function issues, just unplug the wire that goes to this siren and test alarm, Also test alarm by having ignition key on and pressing fob button and see if that turns immobilser off ! if does alarm may start function normally again if lucky . You can leave siren unplugged and only issue is you get no siren tones but all will function if rest of system good . If system seems totally unresponsive simplest option is bypassing the Sigma alarm and that pretty quick job to do, only downside is loose the remote central locking as sigma alarm install removed the factory subaru remote locking . The Sigma alarms are nothing but potential problems at 20 years old as it euro made crap, all the Subaru Japan electrics and electronics will be fine and they all independant of the Sigma (besides remote locking) . Even with the Sigma bypassed you still got the Subaru factory transponder key chip immobiliser and that good enough on an old basic Forester . Modern car thieves be lost at trying deal with a car with a physical key and a mechanical handbrake lol . M30 document attached which might be helpful and does include info on pin code use. changing pin code and programming remotes . m30.pdf

It a pretty simple circuit in terms of modern auto electrics,, you either got electrical pulse at the lock when activated or you haven't . If you have then it tailgate latch side issue, if you haven't it fuse/wiring/relay/module/button related . 5 minutes with a multimeter and a basic scan tool should give enough data narrow down area to investigate further ... Latch actuator and button are quite common failures on these . This the problem with all this electrical crap on modern vehicles, mechanical principles of boot release/opening far better, lasts pretty much forever, less parts thus less environmental impact & if did get an issue it generally easier/cheaper visual inspection and adjustment/repair . Move onto something like a Tesla which rammed full of pointless low quality electronics and software and purposefully engineered barriers for diag/repair options and the drama and cost is literally insane ... Point here is buy vehicles with a lot of thought and take a lot more thought on how you spend money trying get repairs ... Don't assume newer is less maintenance and hassle as in my workshop reality is newer it is the more goes wrong and the more ballache and more cost to resolve it ...

The parts are all individually balanced (or at least should be at manufacture stage if they of any good brand/supply source) clatter at tickover a problem but probably not balancing, bad balance be much much worse at higher revs .

I assume it might be the problem of the needle backlight bleeding out when the needle at a certain position to your viewing angle and for you that is when needle at the 40 position ...

Well that picture is not a 1999 Forester sf hub lol . Poor pics but probably a SH SJ hub ! What is the actual correct vehicle details/scenario !? below is actual subaru fast parts illustrations of a SF Forester non turbo rear hub and brake drum layout .

Is it correct type of hose, injection system fuel hose for moderm ethynol fuel blends is specific type and carries a SAE code printed along it's length - example: SAE J30R9 for a modern high standard non submursed hose, You do have ISO and DIN standards and you best cross referencing those as and if needed . Can be quite difficult getting right type/quality aftermarket as majority of common/easy sources likely stock cheapest garbage they can source and a lot will sell you wrong hose as they clueless or just want make money from selling something . As with most things you buy these days that need quality/design/function specifics you got be fussy on how you source them . Other things to check would be fuel system pressure being controlled correctly .

This era of hub design does not have an installed bearing on hub option . Just buy a proper quality bearing kit such as KOYO NTN etc, if super tight budget you could go BluePrint bearing via Carparts in Motion (20% off until 2nd of feb so bearing kit is like £18.65) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/317689424380 You can do these on car using bearing removal/install kits such as linked below . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397362941519 Use these bearing kits with some sense and they can do the job, can struggle removing a real old rusted in bearing without the likes of a proper long barrel air hammer assist getting it moving . You going want lateral link bushes and bolt too on these unless you blessed with fresh import or one that had recent work done involving these parts. Subaru genuine bush and bolt kit is cheap ... Be careful buying parts off eBay as lot of the more off brand and no name parts are total junk and don't last or fit/function well . It hard enough buying quality these days from well known brands and even oem/original is not what it was decade or 2 ago . In the Automotive repair world good parts knowledge has become a must as using whatever !Removed! comes easy and cheap works out real bad ...

The newer car you own the more problems/pain and cost you will have to endure . DPF GPF are far from miracles of environmental gain, sure the particulate count can look amazing but if you review total environmental effect in terms of system parts manufacture, constant maintenance/service products to keep it functional along with fact you got to drive pointless miles to keep it working and fact that DPF & GPF are a big factor of the reason modern car mpg hasn't really improved in a big way in last decade and a half you can start to calculate that in reality you doing sweet FA to benefit all round world pollution . The reality is even worse than this as particulate filters are nothing more than a collection bin for particulates and if you evaluate the emissions during regen which is basically dumping this bin out on the motorway it an absolute environmental disaster coming out the tail pipe hidden behind marketing bullshit and engineering stupidity to beat incompetently thought out emission legislation .

+1 to that ... 3.0 EZ30D was a subaru gem, shame they didn't put it in the foresters (does fit fairly easily). Biggest disappointment was lack of nice manual gearbox option . Very versatile vehicle which could do a lot and they were cheap on the used market for a pretty solid reliable wagon, if they had some waxoil rust treatment in early years they last real well as mechanically and electronically the parts were proper quality manufacture unlike the 5h1te you buying new today .

What I do in these scenarios is first try knock on a 13mm, if that no go try some grip/rounded fastener sockets & if that still no go mig weld a nut to the plug head and semi gently air impact it out . If you got decent quality vise grip pliers you might do it with them but it likely chew it up real bad leaving it only suitable for welding nut on .

The Boxer diesel is considered Subarus biggest engine failure . You might get lucky as just past the worst production years with a 2013 but by design and emission regulations they all far from problem free . I get loads of these with engine failure and end result is non viable repair costs and scrap metal value car . They stopped making reliable cars 20-25 years ago lol .

The Hill Hold feature . Have done a reply in that thread .

You deactivate it by disconnecting a cable that goes from clutch pedal to a rocker arm on a inline valve mounted between brake circuit steel pipes . I can do a picture from RH SF forester showing the valve as should still be same position in engine bay . If the cable still there with threaded end you just need nut and spacers reconnect it then reset it by tightening or loosening the nuts (2 nuts as jam nut setup) so brakes release at right point of clutch travel bite point . I do have oem nuts and spacer if was needed .

Amayama have it and shipping to Portugal from Japan stock is quite fair cost ( no idea if you get screwed on import fees and get delays and hassle by Portugal customs on Japan goods but assume it highly likely lol ) Anything to screw money out your pocket ... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/subaru/807045040 eBay has options from Poland or Japan if works out better from shipping perspective or ease of purchase ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/336138213028 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/376388560328 Always happy to help Forester SF owners any way we can . Have a good day ...

Part number 807045040 It 45mm diameter by 8mm deep rubber plug

Will look into the part in question as soon as got free 10 minutes ...

Well your VIN seems good in Subaru Fast ...

Supply us the vehicle model, engine code, vehicle year and we'll try find the part number and options on sourcing it, possible cheapest route could be Amayama online as they ship to europe easily and generally fairly cheap for oem part like that and fact it not big or heavy for shipping .

Only kit to use is the ICP timing belt kit with OEM manufacturer sourced parts. They also do GMB or Aisin water pumps that pretty good (use a oem metal gasket with it) Cost effective and decent parts ... ICP do sell on eBay or via website ... calling them is good option.

If you intend fixing it the quicker the better as longer left like this potentially more engine damage is caused . I have done head gasket only (resurfaced heads) on forester turbo's before and engines lived on fine but partially only due to being pretty confident on engine health prior to doing and fact mileage was fairly low . It be a big gamble at your high mileage doing just head gaskets should that be the issue . If you do decide do head gaskets you want be very selective on parts used and quality of work . The boxer engine is pretty easy to pull and do the heads for someone with experience with them . Option 2 is check the basics and if nothing found assume it head gasket as that the common failure and just live with it for six months to a year while work out a replacement .

It highly likely head gasket the issue, check some basics such as water pump and thermostat housing/hoses for leaks and also radiator and turbo cooling lines (visible coloured staining marks left from antifreeze) You can use chemical test kits detect combustion gases in cooling system (we use gas analyser over rad filler neck) It done some miles and to be honest I wouldn't want do just gaskets at that mileage, bearing shells, all new seals, new oil pump , new rings/pistons and valve overhual tends be best way forward but you could indeed do just head gasket and basic head overhaul if the short block seems decent enough and assemble with new water pump and quality japan timing kit (ICP do these at sensible money) Good parts and good effort won't be that cheap & at this mileage further issues could crop up from fatigued engine stressed from the poor cooling/overheating .

I wouldn't worry too much as it pretty easy and cheap to source used working M30 alarms and swap over faulty modules if that turns out be the case . The alarm siren can be dismantled by hidden recessed screws so battery can be replaced and board can be visually inspected . Main control unit pretty easy swap (just be sure comes with a working fob or 4 pin code so can program your fobs easily) . I have changed a few main control modules and sirens over the last 10 years . You could also remove/bypass or replace with new alarm, lot of owners on more basic old models such as forester and outback don't really want go new alarm route for cost and lowest cost bypass means remote locking lost .

M30 manual if needed > m30.pdf

Yes usually just beeps few times but these old electronics don't always respond how they should . Assume it likely bigger fault but best assuming nothing and inspecting/testing everything starting with basics .