Mr B

Aftermarket quality in suspension parts is a major concern . It also a major safety factor and impacts driving/performing quality of vehicle . ICP aftermarket part quality is a bit hit and miss as they not as fussy as use to be and the aftermarket manufacturing quality is down the toilet these days even on previous well rated major car part brands . So if buying from ICP you wise call them and ask what brand/manufacturer the part is rather than assuming it good . What I do on these if the original arm is not seriously rusted is fit new bushes and new genuine subaru ball joint too. We get the original balljoints for example for about 16 quid so it not worth buying aftermarket to save few quid on a part that serious safety component and needs be proper quality have half a chance of decent service life . For complete arm you could look at ACKOJA, they made in Korea by OEM's for car parts so quality not the worst . MOOG is another option for suspension parts that not the worst . We have to deal with this poor quality part concern every day and aftermarket part quality is the biggest problem we face today, takes lot of knowledge and time keep on top of what good/bad and price effective, you also always getting customers wondering why part bill what it is when they could of got it off eBay or Amazon for 3rd of the cost lol . Lot of the cheap parts are trash straight out the box and either don't fit, fit/function poorly or pretty much failed in 12 to 18 months ... Buy wisely and refurbish original parts when possible .

Is a few slight variations in subframes depending on exact months built and regional market specific models but general rule of thumb if part off same region and same year it will fit, when those factors vary you may get issue or few to make it fit but most of the time biggest part of it still be same ...

Poor quality aftermarket part perhaps ! From experience I prefer a good used original joint re-greased and new rubber boot over current garbage aftermarket .

Sometimes it the wiring broken at transition flex point to the boot lid . Can't beat the old mechanical handle, mine 25 years old and works same as when come out of factory . The sensor switch boot releases are complete garbage, nothing but hassle and expense, lot of models get water ingress into the switch board (big problems on multi function module/boards that canbus integrated). On some model cars where this incorporates into reverse camera & perhaps even rear wiper all in one the problems caused and cost to resolve gets silly. when linked into canbus networks can completely disable the vehicle and it needs flatbed recovery. Very rare I get to do a diag/repair bill under £300 for resolving this electronic garbage faults, 400 to £800 don't go far sorting this p155 poor engineering concept & low cost component choice of the vehicle manufacturers . No make regardless of prestige/price are exempt from this ... Basically the newer you go the worse it getting in terms of reliability and cost to repair faults . New cars environmental benefits would seem be none judging by the parts bins and service chemical consumption increase I getting . Since Hybrids I do battery recycling by the pallet monthly through winter, pretty much 3 times the battery waste I got pre Hybrid . Cleaner numbers out tailpipe but everywhere else it much worse !

unfortunately problem is bigger than just quality of oem battery. Yes batteries quality is garbage compared to decade or 2 ago but issue that highlights the garbage battery quality is poor electronic engineering (smart charging included in this) and the awful parasitic losses . modern vehicles are nothing but rushed ideas produced at lowest cost with design intent on short life & all the mistakes & constant part failure you can pay for lol .

looks practical and likeable looks. Bit of an old mans car with that wheezy power 😛 Grey imports can be a satisfying purchase, amazing how clean vehicles can be and accurate the auction vehicle reports are from Japan .

Glad you worked out the manual release, get a lot of drive in emergancy panics over this crappy engineered garbage . electronic hatch and rear cameras/sensors big issue on many brand modern cars. I seen some unable run as module networking corrupted from water ingress in boot lid components. All this garbage and hassle for sh1te you don't need. This is part reason I purposely make sure my immediate family don't own cars newer than 2005 . Older vehicle design from mid 90's to around 2005 worked great, is reliable and of good component quality, easier maintain, parts are plentiful and dirt cheap (although hardly ever need buy any 🙂 ) & your bank account gets fat as good example older vehicle motoring so low cost . All the low quality electronics and way it integrated in engineering design on modern vehicles is pathetic garbage. Mechanical handbrakes, door latches and so forth can last 3 decades no problems, New electronic crap nothing but issues and filling up skips with parts year after year until beyond viable repair in a decade . The Tesla's going be fun once matured another few years in British weather lol .

It potentially fairly easy area repair so cost could be pretty reasonable, especially if had a decent used lower rad panel to graft in. Could be worth doing some rust prevention treatment such as dinitrol ML and a black wax . Volvo got some good points but since the days of Ford ownership and currently the Chinese they nothing but constant faults and expense . If you want decent made cars that reliable and low cost minimal ballache then stick with older models . Newer vehicles are a complete waste of finances & engineered to milk your bank account dry .

It obviously got some structural role as it ties leg rails together and is rather beefy if purely for component mounting. It is an area that can fall out of mot when not within 30cm testable area . Bad point of tester seeing real heavy rot is will make them more diligent look elsewhere on vehicle for similar corrosion . It super easy chop worst or all of it out and fab one up out of some box section or u channel and flat sheet metal . New panels are only around £120 If wanting real cheap repair if find a scrap car with clean lower rad support panel you can chop out what needed and graft it into yours for small costs . I call what the yanks call the slam panel the upper support panel that the top radiator brackets bolt to and the bonnet latches into . The lower one I call lower radiator support panel . Not all models same part but they do cross to some extent .

Have used Strongflex before for front rear trailing arm bush and front wishbone front bushses and they seem as good as any other known brand. They use to be quite cheap via eBay or direct off site but prices gone up with brand recognition I guess and global hassles adds a cost ...

modern vehicle lighting is becoming a problem from too bright to multi function of one light so you loose side/dip function when indicating and unusual position/volume of lighting that seems fall out of general lighting legislation and certainly falls outside of good common sense . Very poor design/engineering that likely going create quite a few accidents . That modern garbage though, nothing but expense and problems .

Don't believe too much of what you get told via youtube or facebook lol . Still can get these and original subaru part 20174AA020 not expensive https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283764755433 https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/product/floating-bush-rear-sus-bed-20174aa020/ https://www.amayama.com/en/part/subaru/20174aa020 Other options are polyurethane bushes but they will be more cost than OEM . https://www.strongflex.eu/en/polyurethane-bushes-subaru-legacy-ii-outback-i-bd-bg-bk-1994-1999/1821-271801b-rear-crossmember-bush-5902553552584.html Just be sure your subframe proper solid, if good I would paint it with zinc rich epoxy then some tough ox or you could do a black wax coating like dinitrol products (if wax based coating most of it need doing after basic fitting steps or too messy handle) I done a few with Dinitrol ML then Black waxoyl or Dinitrol 4941 black wax and if done with some thought and care it can look like new, have a low cost and long term rust control with easy topup maintenance if needed .

Quite a few available but not direct in UK You could look at getting one fabricated but unless you got access to cheap materials and fabricator friend it will cost more . https://www.offroadmanni.eu/Skid-plate-for-Subaru-Forester-SF-2-mm-steel-engine https://get-primitive.com/product/armor-skidplates-and-protection/front-skidplates/front-skidplate-1998-2002-forester/

Perhaps look at the clutch hill hold to see it interfering with clutch movement. Hopefully adjustment/lubrication can resolve issue. be wise do visual checks rather than ignore it .

have a look here https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/ 2001 eu manual is good earlier is mainly usdm manuals but will still have some relevant info drop links (do fit forester as same as impreza) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284493914332 ICP will do genuine bushes in a kit or partial kits and they not silly money, will do bolt hardware also. They will have after market options too. you could akso look at polyurathane 80ShA from likes of strongflex

You can't really strip these master door switches, best option is good used unless can get fair price on new . Can you do picture from side of plug so can see some wire colours, also a pic of switch assembly bottom and top so can see what models might have same part. Basically the wiring for up is same as down, all that changes is the polarity, if the scenario for up is it moves a bit then cuts out every time you try the up switch it generally the switch and we done a few of them like this when had bad motors that been replaced . JDM model wiring can differ so wiring diagrams may not be exactly same plug pin layout or colours . You can power motor directly to see it can go up and no mechanical issues with track or motor . You can go to link below for online service manual which might possibly help. Choose: Forester 2006/ Click: Wiring Diagram Look for Power Window System and you should see some diagrams for RHD https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2006/

Quite a common issue, window motors go bad from water ingress as water collects in the cast cup body of motor housing (removing motor housing and drilling drain holes helps this issue) As the motors deteriorate they demand more current which damages the switch contacts and causes symptoms you seeing as under load the voltage drop of damaged switch trips the breaker . Another tip source cheaper motors is rears are same as fronts but opposite sides: rear driverside fit front passenger & rear passenger fits front driver (do need clock plastic drain bung to correct orientation and possibly swap cable tails if fussy (on plugs with weather connectors) .

Assuming we talking about Sigma alarm . If you got one working remote and/or working pin code just pick up a tidy decent used fob off eBay, swap the fob board to your key fob and program it to your car alarm module . Some instructions can be found in this post: M30 user manual with full details is attached as pdf . m30.pdf

+1 on OEM thermostats only, all we use as aftermarket can be nothing but problems from our experience . Was the coolant system a muddy mess when pulled the thermostat ? If you unlucky you got bigger issues than thermostat/ water pump (water pump failure pretty much unheard of but you can check the weep hole to see if pump seal leaking) . Best way forward here is system/rad flush, refill and run then do a coolant pressure test see system holding pressure, chemical or exhaust gas tester can be used if no other problems get found to see if got combustion gasses entering coolant system (head gasket failure)

Sounds/symptoms you mention sound likely be centre diff issue, this can sound like a central rear noise & has potential come and go if it control duty effecting type of fault .

Price from amayyama (sourced from Japan stock) is also around the 400 mark so your garage doing proper fair prices . I had 3 rears and some front frames from breakers that pretty good and price was 200 which includes all arms brackets and bolts which saved some additional parts/hardware cost. We clean and coat decent used ones with dinitrol (adds to cost but looks nice and should outlast the next major part failure) Pick best parts out of original and the donor and add in any other suspension parts/hardware if needed . Indeed should be better coated from factory, 2008 onwards is worse than earlier models, front and rear subframes super common on 2009 onwards . We done a front subframe on a 7 year old one, shocking really when I own 3 2000 & 1999 foresters all with original subframes and suspension arms Quite sad but that the reality of modern cars, they garbage ...

It all about what markets well and potentially makes more easy money . reality and common sense takes the back bench, transmission fluids are big one for being left too long. Oils need changing, even if not dirty the viscosity is changing from constant shearing of the oil film . I seen oem gearbox oils look thin as 5w30 as never been changed in decade and reason i'm looking at them is generally transmission noise lol , one earlier decent oil service and these transmission probably still been as quiet as day came out factory. Other big concern these days is replacement parts/service item quality, even the oem stuff has dropped quality massively so you got do some homework or have first hand experience be sure your parts/service items are worthy & not worse than what replacing .

Best bet is pretty clean used, fair few of these diesel foresters in salvage thanks to diesel engine failures, downside is subframes fairly hard find tidy Part number is probably 20152SC024 , try a dealer or specialist such as import car parts or amayama . you likely won't get change out of £600 for new subframe and any other fitting hardware do the job right .

If you had to a stub of new pipe could be welded onto to silencer (clean up and weld to the original weld bead as gives fair bit of material to work the weld puddle . The stub pipe be made length best suited to get to fairly solid piece of original pipe and either sized to slip over original pipe or use a joiner . Hard tell how sensible a solution that would be without actually visually seeing/inspecting it, I done repair to cat sections and silencers before when you can judge will get 3 or 4 more years from it with ease and it generally an hours labour plus small cost of some generic exhaust materials/fittings . Wise money would likely be longer term solution such as a local custom exhaust shop such as a powerflow dealer making up new sections as deemed necessary .

does diagram and part numbers below help . Basically any SG Forester (2.0X, XT etc) with same bumper design will be same parts