Mr B

Only kit to use is the ICP timing belt kit with OEM manufacturer sourced parts. They also do GMB or Aisin water pumps that pretty good (use a oem metal gasket with it) Cost effective and decent parts ... ICP do sell on eBay or via website ... calling them is good option.

If you intend fixing it the quicker the better as longer left like this potentially more engine damage is caused . I have done head gasket only (resurfaced heads) on forester turbo's before and engines lived on fine but partially only due to being pretty confident on engine health prior to doing and fact mileage was fairly low . It be a big gamble at your high mileage doing just head gaskets should that be the issue . If you do decide do head gaskets you want be very selective on parts used and quality of work . The boxer engine is pretty easy to pull and do the heads for someone with experience with them . Option 2 is check the basics and if nothing found assume it head gasket as that the common failure and just live with it for six months to a year while work out a replacement .

It highly likely head gasket the issue, check some basics such as water pump and thermostat housing/hoses for leaks and also radiator and turbo cooling lines (visible coloured staining marks left from antifreeze) You can use chemical test kits detect combustion gases in cooling system (we use gas analyser over rad filler neck) It done some miles and to be honest I wouldn't want do just gaskets at that mileage, bearing shells, all new seals, new oil pump , new rings/pistons and valve overhual tends be best way forward but you could indeed do just head gasket and basic head overhaul if the short block seems decent enough and assemble with new water pump and quality japan timing kit (ICP do these at sensible money) Good parts and good effort won't be that cheap & at this mileage further issues could crop up from fatigued engine stressed from the poor cooling/overheating .

I wouldn't worry too much as it pretty easy and cheap to source used working M30 alarms and swap over faulty modules if that turns out be the case . The alarm siren can be dismantled by hidden recessed screws so battery can be replaced and board can be visually inspected . Main control unit pretty easy swap (just be sure comes with a working fob or 4 pin code so can program your fobs easily) . I have changed a few main control modules and sirens over the last 10 years . You could also remove/bypass or replace with new alarm, lot of owners on more basic old models such as forester and outback don't really want go new alarm route for cost and lowest cost bypass means remote locking lost .

M30 manual if needed > m30.pdf

Yes usually just beeps few times but these old electronics don't always respond how they should . Assume it likely bigger fault but best assuming nothing and inspecting/testing everything starting with basics .

double check bonnet switch not bent out of position or wiring an issue . What did you work on ? was battery disconnected for any period of time . Not unusual for issues with m30 alarms at this age, siren backup battery goes bad and can also leak and corrode board causing odd problems, relays in main unit can go bad too . If Siren issue you can leave siren unplugged and use fob/vehicle like normal . I done some MOT welding work on a Outback last year and had battery disconnect while welding and that drained a failing battery in the Siren . When reconnected battery we had the low dB warning bleeps and after few minuyes alarm would go off randomly. had strip siren and found bad leaking battery that shorting/damaging control board. A decent used siren and a new rechargable battery resolved that one but that was almost couple hours work find fault and chase parts. The fun of electronics lol, hybrids and electric cars be fun if manage reach age of this ...

does switch look like image below Plenty used on ebay . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266845587102 or get new via amayama https://www.amayama.com/en/part/subaru/83322aj010 want check part number/variant before ordering ... (will be a number on back of your switch)

2 use KYB brand. if wait for ebay 20% coupon code you can get them quite cheap ...

Aftermarket quality in suspension parts is a major concern . It also a major safety factor and impacts driving/performing quality of vehicle . ICP aftermarket part quality is a bit hit and miss as they not as fussy as use to be and the aftermarket manufacturing quality is down the toilet these days even on previous well rated major car part brands . So if buying from ICP you wise call them and ask what brand/manufacturer the part is rather than assuming it good . What I do on these if the original arm is not seriously rusted is fit new bushes and new genuine subaru ball joint too. We get the original balljoints for example for about 16 quid so it not worth buying aftermarket to save few quid on a part that serious safety component and needs be proper quality have half a chance of decent service life . For complete arm you could look at ACKOJA, they made in Korea by OEM's for car parts so quality not the worst . MOOG is another option for suspension parts that not the worst . We have to deal with this poor quality part concern every day and aftermarket part quality is the biggest problem we face today, takes lot of knowledge and time keep on top of what good/bad and price effective, you also always getting customers wondering why part bill what it is when they could of got it off eBay or Amazon for 3rd of the cost lol . Lot of the cheap parts are trash straight out the box and either don't fit, fit/function poorly or pretty much failed in 12 to 18 months ... Buy wisely and refurbish original parts when possible .

Is a few slight variations in subframes depending on exact months built and regional market specific models but general rule of thumb if part off same region and same year it will fit, when those factors vary you may get issue or few to make it fit but most of the time biggest part of it still be same ...

Poor quality aftermarket part perhaps ! From experience I prefer a good used original joint re-greased and new rubber boot over current garbage aftermarket .

Sometimes it the wiring broken at transition flex point to the boot lid . Can't beat the old mechanical handle, mine 25 years old and works same as when come out of factory . The sensor switch boot releases are complete garbage, nothing but hassle and expense, lot of models get water ingress into the switch board (big problems on multi function module/boards that canbus integrated). On some model cars where this incorporates into reverse camera & perhaps even rear wiper all in one the problems caused and cost to resolve gets silly. when linked into canbus networks can completely disable the vehicle and it needs flatbed recovery. Very rare I get to do a diag/repair bill under £300 for resolving this electronic garbage faults, 400 to £800 don't go far sorting this p155 poor engineering concept & low cost component choice of the vehicle manufacturers . No make regardless of prestige/price are exempt from this ... Basically the newer you go the worse it getting in terms of reliability and cost to repair faults . New cars environmental benefits would seem be none judging by the parts bins and service chemical consumption increase I getting . Since Hybrids I do battery recycling by the pallet monthly through winter, pretty much 3 times the battery waste I got pre Hybrid . Cleaner numbers out tailpipe but everywhere else it much worse !

unfortunately problem is bigger than just quality of oem battery. Yes batteries quality is garbage compared to decade or 2 ago but issue that highlights the garbage battery quality is poor electronic engineering (smart charging included in this) and the awful parasitic losses . modern vehicles are nothing but rushed ideas produced at lowest cost with design intent on short life & all the mistakes & constant part failure you can pay for lol .

looks practical and likeable looks. Bit of an old mans car with that wheezy power 😛 Grey imports can be a satisfying purchase, amazing how clean vehicles can be and accurate the auction vehicle reports are from Japan .

Glad you worked out the manual release, get a lot of drive in emergancy panics over this crappy engineered garbage . electronic hatch and rear cameras/sensors big issue on many brand modern cars. I seen some unable run as module networking corrupted from water ingress in boot lid components. All this garbage and hassle for sh1te you don't need. This is part reason I purposely make sure my immediate family don't own cars newer than 2005 . Older vehicle design from mid 90's to around 2005 worked great, is reliable and of good component quality, easier maintain, parts are plentiful and dirt cheap (although hardly ever need buy any 🙂 ) & your bank account gets fat as good example older vehicle motoring so low cost . All the low quality electronics and way it integrated in engineering design on modern vehicles is pathetic garbage. Mechanical handbrakes, door latches and so forth can last 3 decades no problems, New electronic crap nothing but issues and filling up skips with parts year after year until beyond viable repair in a decade . The Tesla's going be fun once matured another few years in British weather lol .

It potentially fairly easy area repair so cost could be pretty reasonable, especially if had a decent used lower rad panel to graft in. Could be worth doing some rust prevention treatment such as dinitrol ML and a black wax . Volvo got some good points but since the days of Ford ownership and currently the Chinese they nothing but constant faults and expense . If you want decent made cars that reliable and low cost minimal ballache then stick with older models . Newer vehicles are a complete waste of finances & engineered to milk your bank account dry .

It obviously got some structural role as it ties leg rails together and is rather beefy if purely for component mounting. It is an area that can fall out of mot when not within 30cm testable area . Bad point of tester seeing real heavy rot is will make them more diligent look elsewhere on vehicle for similar corrosion . It super easy chop worst or all of it out and fab one up out of some box section or u channel and flat sheet metal . New panels are only around £120 If wanting real cheap repair if find a scrap car with clean lower rad support panel you can chop out what needed and graft it into yours for small costs . I call what the yanks call the slam panel the upper support panel that the top radiator brackets bolt to and the bonnet latches into . The lower one I call lower radiator support panel . Not all models same part but they do cross to some extent .

Have used Strongflex before for front rear trailing arm bush and front wishbone front bushses and they seem as good as any other known brand. They use to be quite cheap via eBay or direct off site but prices gone up with brand recognition I guess and global hassles adds a cost ...

modern vehicle lighting is becoming a problem from too bright to multi function of one light so you loose side/dip function when indicating and unusual position/volume of lighting that seems fall out of general lighting legislation and certainly falls outside of good common sense . Very poor design/engineering that likely going create quite a few accidents . That modern garbage though, nothing but expense and problems .

Don't believe too much of what you get told via youtube or facebook lol . Still can get these and original subaru part 20174AA020 not expensive https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283764755433 https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/product/floating-bush-rear-sus-bed-20174aa020/ https://www.amayama.com/en/part/subaru/20174aa020 Other options are polyurethane bushes but they will be more cost than OEM . https://www.strongflex.eu/en/polyurethane-bushes-subaru-legacy-ii-outback-i-bd-bg-bk-1994-1999/1821-271801b-rear-crossmember-bush-5902553552584.html Just be sure your subframe proper solid, if good I would paint it with zinc rich epoxy then some tough ox or you could do a black wax coating like dinitrol products (if wax based coating most of it need doing after basic fitting steps or too messy handle) I done a few with Dinitrol ML then Black waxoyl or Dinitrol 4941 black wax and if done with some thought and care it can look like new, have a low cost and long term rust control with easy topup maintenance if needed .

Quite a few available but not direct in UK You could look at getting one fabricated but unless you got access to cheap materials and fabricator friend it will cost more . https://www.offroadmanni.eu/Skid-plate-for-Subaru-Forester-SF-2-mm-steel-engine https://get-primitive.com/product/armor-skidplates-and-protection/front-skidplates/front-skidplate-1998-2002-forester/

Perhaps look at the clutch hill hold to see it interfering with clutch movement. Hopefully adjustment/lubrication can resolve issue. be wise do visual checks rather than ignore it .

have a look here https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/ 2001 eu manual is good earlier is mainly usdm manuals but will still have some relevant info drop links (do fit forester as same as impreza) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284493914332 ICP will do genuine bushes in a kit or partial kits and they not silly money, will do bolt hardware also. They will have after market options too. you could akso look at polyurathane 80ShA from likes of strongflex

You can't really strip these master door switches, best option is good used unless can get fair price on new . Can you do picture from side of plug so can see some wire colours, also a pic of switch assembly bottom and top so can see what models might have same part. Basically the wiring for up is same as down, all that changes is the polarity, if the scenario for up is it moves a bit then cuts out every time you try the up switch it generally the switch and we done a few of them like this when had bad motors that been replaced . JDM model wiring can differ so wiring diagrams may not be exactly same plug pin layout or colours . You can power motor directly to see it can go up and no mechanical issues with track or motor . You can go to link below for online service manual which might possibly help. Choose: Forester 2006/ Click: Wiring Diagram Look for Power Window System and you should see some diagrams for RHD https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2006/