Mr B

I assume it might be the problem of the needle backlight bleeding out when the needle at a certain position to your viewing angle and for you that is when needle at the 40 position ...

Well that picture is not a 1999 Forester sf hub lol . Poor pics but probably a SH SJ hub ! What is the actual correct vehicle details/scenario !? below is actual subaru fast parts illustrations of a SF Forester non turbo rear hub and brake drum layout .

Is it correct type of hose, injection system fuel hose for moderm ethynol fuel blends is specific type and carries a SAE code printed along it's length - example: SAE J30R9 for a modern high standard non submursed hose, You do have ISO and DIN standards and you best cross referencing those as and if needed . Can be quite difficult getting right type/quality aftermarket as majority of common/easy sources likely stock cheapest garbage they can source and a lot will sell you wrong hose as they clueless or just want make money from selling something . As with most things you buy these days that need quality/design/function specifics you got be fussy on how you source them . Other things to check would be fuel system pressure being controlled correctly .

This era of hub design does not have an installed bearing on hub option . Just buy a proper quality bearing kit such as KOYO NTN etc, if super tight budget you could go BluePrint bearing via Carparts in Motion (20% off until 2nd of feb so bearing kit is like £18.65) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/317689424380 You can do these on car using bearing removal/install kits such as linked below . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/397362941519 Use these bearing kits with some sense and they can do the job, can struggle removing a real old rusted in bearing without the likes of a proper long barrel air hammer assist getting it moving . You going want lateral link bushes and bolt too on these unless you blessed with fresh import or one that had recent work done involving these parts. Subaru genuine bush and bolt kit is cheap ... Be careful buying parts off eBay as lot of the more off brand and no name parts are total junk and don't last or fit/function well . It hard enough buying quality these days from well known brands and even oem/original is not what it was decade or 2 ago . In the Automotive repair world good parts knowledge has become a must as using whatever !Removed! comes easy and cheap works out real bad ...

The newer car you own the more problems/pain and cost you will have to endure . DPF GPF are far from miracles of environmental gain, sure the particulate count can look amazing but if you review total environmental effect in terms of system parts manufacture, constant maintenance/service products to keep it functional along with fact you got to drive pointless miles to keep it working and fact that DPF & GPF are a big factor of the reason modern car mpg hasn't really improved in a big way in last decade and a half you can start to calculate that in reality you doing sweet FA to benefit all round world pollution . The reality is even worse than this as particulate filters are nothing more than a collection bin for particulates and if you evaluate the emissions during regen which is basically dumping this bin out on the motorway it an absolute environmental disaster coming out the tail pipe hidden behind marketing bullshit and engineering stupidity to beat incompetently thought out emission legislation .

+1 to that ... 3.0 EZ30D was a subaru gem, shame they didn't put it in the foresters (does fit fairly easily). Biggest disappointment was lack of nice manual gearbox option . Very versatile vehicle which could do a lot and they were cheap on the used market for a pretty solid reliable wagon, if they had some waxoil rust treatment in early years they last real well as mechanically and electronically the parts were proper quality manufacture unlike the 5h1te you buying new today .

What I do in these scenarios is first try knock on a 13mm, if that no go try some grip/rounded fastener sockets & if that still no go mig weld a nut to the plug head and semi gently air impact it out . If you got decent quality vise grip pliers you might do it with them but it likely chew it up real bad leaving it only suitable for welding nut on .

The Boxer diesel is considered Subarus biggest engine failure . You might get lucky as just past the worst production years with a 2013 but by design and emission regulations they all far from problem free . I get loads of these with engine failure and end result is non viable repair costs and scrap metal value car . They stopped making reliable cars 20-25 years ago lol .

The Hill Hold feature . Have done a reply in that thread .

You deactivate it by disconnecting a cable that goes from clutch pedal to a rocker arm on a inline valve mounted between brake circuit steel pipes . I can do a picture from RH SF forester showing the valve as should still be same position in engine bay . If the cable still there with threaded end you just need nut and spacers reconnect it then reset it by tightening or loosening the nuts (2 nuts as jam nut setup) so brakes release at right point of clutch travel bite point . I do have oem nuts and spacer if was needed .

Amayama have it and shipping to Portugal from Japan stock is quite fair cost ( no idea if you get screwed on import fees and get delays and hassle by Portugal customs on Japan goods but assume it highly likely lol ) Anything to screw money out your pocket ... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/subaru/807045040 eBay has options from Poland or Japan if works out better from shipping perspective or ease of purchase ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/336138213028 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/376388560328 Always happy to help Forester SF owners any way we can . Have a good day ...

Part number 807045040 It 45mm diameter by 8mm deep rubber plug

Will look into the part in question as soon as got free 10 minutes ...

Well your VIN seems good in Subaru Fast ...

Supply us the vehicle model, engine code, vehicle year and we'll try find the part number and options on sourcing it, possible cheapest route could be Amayama online as they ship to europe easily and generally fairly cheap for oem part like that and fact it not big or heavy for shipping .

Only kit to use is the ICP timing belt kit with OEM manufacturer sourced parts. They also do GMB or Aisin water pumps that pretty good (use a oem metal gasket with it) Cost effective and decent parts ... ICP do sell on eBay or via website ... calling them is good option.

If you intend fixing it the quicker the better as longer left like this potentially more engine damage is caused . I have done head gasket only (resurfaced heads) on forester turbo's before and engines lived on fine but partially only due to being pretty confident on engine health prior to doing and fact mileage was fairly low . It be a big gamble at your high mileage doing just head gaskets should that be the issue . If you do decide do head gaskets you want be very selective on parts used and quality of work . The boxer engine is pretty easy to pull and do the heads for someone with experience with them . Option 2 is check the basics and if nothing found assume it head gasket as that the common failure and just live with it for six months to a year while work out a replacement .

It highly likely head gasket the issue, check some basics such as water pump and thermostat housing/hoses for leaks and also radiator and turbo cooling lines (visible coloured staining marks left from antifreeze) You can use chemical test kits detect combustion gases in cooling system (we use gas analyser over rad filler neck) It done some miles and to be honest I wouldn't want do just gaskets at that mileage, bearing shells, all new seals, new oil pump , new rings/pistons and valve overhual tends be best way forward but you could indeed do just head gasket and basic head overhaul if the short block seems decent enough and assemble with new water pump and quality japan timing kit (ICP do these at sensible money) Good parts and good effort won't be that cheap & at this mileage further issues could crop up from fatigued engine stressed from the poor cooling/overheating .

I wouldn't worry too much as it pretty easy and cheap to source used working M30 alarms and swap over faulty modules if that turns out be the case . The alarm siren can be dismantled by hidden recessed screws so battery can be replaced and board can be visually inspected . Main control unit pretty easy swap (just be sure comes with a working fob or 4 pin code so can program your fobs easily) . I have changed a few main control modules and sirens over the last 10 years . You could also remove/bypass or replace with new alarm, lot of owners on more basic old models such as forester and outback don't really want go new alarm route for cost and lowest cost bypass means remote locking lost .

M30 manual if needed > m30.pdf

Yes usually just beeps few times but these old electronics don't always respond how they should . Assume it likely bigger fault but best assuming nothing and inspecting/testing everything starting with basics .

double check bonnet switch not bent out of position or wiring an issue . What did you work on ? was battery disconnected for any period of time . Not unusual for issues with m30 alarms at this age, siren backup battery goes bad and can also leak and corrode board causing odd problems, relays in main unit can go bad too . If Siren issue you can leave siren unplugged and use fob/vehicle like normal . I done some MOT welding work on a Outback last year and had battery disconnect while welding and that drained a failing battery in the Siren . When reconnected battery we had the low dB warning bleeps and after few minuyes alarm would go off randomly. had strip siren and found bad leaking battery that shorting/damaging control board. A decent used siren and a new rechargable battery resolved that one but that was almost couple hours work find fault and chase parts. The fun of electronics lol, hybrids and electric cars be fun if manage reach age of this ...

does switch look like image below Plenty used on ebay . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266845587102 or get new via amayama https://www.amayama.com/en/part/subaru/83322aj010 want check part number/variant before ordering ... (will be a number on back of your switch)

2 use KYB brand. if wait for ebay 20% coupon code you can get them quite cheap ...

Aftermarket quality in suspension parts is a major concern . It also a major safety factor and impacts driving/performing quality of vehicle . ICP aftermarket part quality is a bit hit and miss as they not as fussy as use to be and the aftermarket manufacturing quality is down the toilet these days even on previous well rated major car part brands . So if buying from ICP you wise call them and ask what brand/manufacturer the part is rather than assuming it good . What I do on these if the original arm is not seriously rusted is fit new bushes and new genuine subaru ball joint too. We get the original balljoints for example for about 16 quid so it not worth buying aftermarket to save few quid on a part that serious safety component and needs be proper quality have half a chance of decent service life . For complete arm you could look at ACKOJA, they made in Korea by OEM's for car parts so quality not the worst . MOOG is another option for suspension parts that not the worst . We have to deal with this poor quality part concern every day and aftermarket part quality is the biggest problem we face today, takes lot of knowledge and time keep on top of what good/bad and price effective, you also always getting customers wondering why part bill what it is when they could of got it off eBay or Amazon for 3rd of the cost lol . Lot of the cheap parts are trash straight out the box and either don't fit, fit/function poorly or pretty much failed in 12 to 18 months ... Buy wisely and refurbish original parts when possible .