Mr B

it chain ...

I use autel tpms and sensors, sensors are around £160 a set of 4 . you can clone the original sensor ID's to a second set of wheels which handy . Reality is it should be easy for owner add/service sensors all from cars interface really and made a legal requirement to manufacture design . I see many owners who simply use a neatly cut piece of insulating rape to cover the tpms light lol . The current design and cost of tpms is usual modern era stupidity creating more hassle, cost and negligence than ever but someone profiting ! ...

They look original,should see stamped subaru on end near tailpipe ... they not too much issue welding as long not near piping from tank and no obvious leaks ... never nice knowing all that fuel sitting close though . I tend use old car heat shields as bit of protection and keep sparks/heat under some control . For a nice job you take parts off chop and clean them as desired then loose fit and cut your pipe to fit and tack in position then remove to do most of welding off car and leave easy weld for on car or if used a joiner can weld all off car . We can get parts where ever we like, is some disadvantages with online in terms of time to receive part, and returning it if issues . Worst issue is ordering parts and you get customer no show, With local auto factors this no issue as what not used simply picked up next delivery and no charges Other factor here is lot of times you may get extra parts delivered in case you need them on a job and again this works well via auto factors. Mainly it boils down garage wanting minimal hassle, easy new part to bolt or clip on and no head work on part research/sourcing, this type usually put big effort into is making bill out or feeding customers a load of fluff 🙂 I buy reasonable amount of parts off eBay and online parts site, handy for cheap and quick alarm keyfob solution, viable used part option and finding oem parts cheap or a preferred quality brand at sensible money, also use the 20% coupon times to stock few fairly common parts as prices so cheap for quality brands that nice work with (lot of factors stock low end brands these days)

good news, is pretty easy do decent job if buy preformed bends etc . No idea how some shops keep trading way they turn away easy work. Subaru parts are pretty easy and less of a muddle and easier get good parts than lot of french/german cars . So many garages who simply can't do any real work .

Yes can make sense and oem quality on struts is big jump even over the japan made KYB .

generally by quality level of construction and tail pipe style you possibly see product stamping on them if clean enough, the Y section is original and as been patched assume it just to remove bad flange joints .

My preference is the RA6028 mainly as the little extra height and stiffness tends be a good match to what the SLS managed when working correct. The RC6431 soon give you that slight sagging look with light load and seems you going new on front the better final balance front to rear on heights likely come from using RA6028 springs . Only real reasons to use RC6431 is if have preference to softer spring or desire lower side of subaru spec ride height . If using KYB shocks on front then using the KYB top mounts will be good as the KYB shock has a longer threaded shaft with flats for a wrench rather than broached allen/hex key and this difference stops the original plastic cap being refitted which a problem as the koyo bearing in the top mount only has integral seal bottom side so it soon collect dirt and water without the plastic cap. KYB top mount has integral seal both side of the bearing . What I will say though is the oem subaru top bearings are superb quality as koyo bearings are some of best made in the world and none of aftermarket will last as well . You could cut 1/4" off the top KYB shaft and put a slot in shaft if want reuse original subaru front top mounts and have plastic cover fit . Bit of silliness from KYB on design and purely a penny pinching one for simpler manufacture procedure . Is part availability and pricing good in Hungary ? That looks a great fishing location 🙂

Some after market cross it to both diesel and petrol and some don't, we had vegaz mufflers before for a petrol . Y section not as nicely done as the oem effort on any off the shelf aftermarket I seen I would be inclined repair original if it only the short pipe lengths from rear muffler inlets to the y section . If you rear muffler boxes pretty rot free tidy and functional and oem parts it real shame to bin that quality level just for the short joiner pipe lengths .

Yes most bigger outlets won't be interested in your parts or fabricating . If the current back boxes good besides pipe you may be able just redo short joint lengths of pipe and have solid and tidy end result butter than previous joint patch effort . Smaller friendly shop that handy with a mig be way go, is pretty pleasing work for hour or 2 and some straight and bent pipe lengths not expensive . It really easy do but not easy find many willing, to many shops just want easy bolt on and the profit from marking up sourced parts If you get new boxes you can buy flange plates to match as bare plates or pre welded to short length of pipe, I used them a lot on older models for cat outlet joint repairs, the older model single rear exhaust and centre pipe so cheap for fairly decent parts it never worth repairs unless something basic like a hanger bracket . Yours is more pricey for decent enough quality and Y section would up the cost further ... why they can't make them from more stainless like toyota did for a while . oem exhaust part pricing is ridiculous money ... Do still see lot of 20year old outbacks and foresters with original exhausts with minor fix, newer is engineered cheaper unfortunately ...

it flange joints but yours been patched up by chopping joints out . you could buy standard boxes and pre cut flanges and get a shop make up the existing y section to standard flanges or go custom stainless to good point at y pipe or down to the middle pipe flange for a neater job . If planning on keeping it long time then stainless good but decent alu/steel tends last 5 to 10 years . scotland pretty tough on underside of cars though . Sometimes exhaust shops like powerflow so cheap it daft go steel, all down what services you got local enough ...

Yes H6 headgasket not a common issue . It needs looking at by decent specialist and that not a dealer generally lol . I generally sniff test the cooling system, chemical test can be useful too . Really needs a thorough diagnosis, check actual power/grounds on temop sensor and sensor out values are true, thermostat fans and general coolant system condition/flow and pump needs be reviewed . Removing plugs and visual examination and a endoscope can find useful results as can a good operator of a leak down tester, checking the bottom joint of head gasket can be useful too . Is an engine out job do the heads, while engine quick to remove is lot of hours in a good job and quality parts and machine shop don't come cheap. My quick pricing on head gaskets without reviewing it be 2.5K but could go to 3K . My first thoughts would be it lower chance of heads so couple hours or leaving it with mechanic for few days for good diagnosis/ use testing is where you need start . A garage that doesn't even own a pressure tester is not a good place start nor is a dealer who says 4K for head gaskets without advising you on thorough diagnosis, you need experience with test gear be any real good with it and for you get value from the repair you going ideally want a garage who done a few subaru engine builds as you don't want them learning at your cost . Make effort find good independent garage and only commit to gaskets if reasonable evidence found from proper testing not guessing . Good luck ...

In the case of tpms it tends work as a safety negative on older vehicles (and only few years old at that) as most driving round with faults and they don't want pay the extra costs dealing with tpms, this means even simple tyre change tends get put off and when do they cut tyre quality to offset cost of tpms issues being put right during tyre install . quite simply yours eyes and a £5 tyre gauge far better option, visual checking of tyres is far more important than pressure and tpms just makes people more lazy and less involved & educated and less wealthy lol . On general private use vehicles it a complete waste of resources and typical example of throwing technology at something and actually making safety and environment impact worse but advertisement and safety claims better on paper only ...

you could buy the autel tpms interface or go to a independent that can clone the tpms sensors so your winter set has same sensor ID's . To be quite honest tpms is another example of throwing electronics at it just for sake rather than real long term benefit and really is a waste of time money and materials used in general public vehicles . USA nanny state rules what got this into normal production cars worldwide ...

simple and cheap to resolve or fix. you can buy a bypass plug that goes on the harness to sigma main module (behind glovebox) which basically bypasses immobiliser circuits or even learn how do this manually (loads of info on sigma m30 alarms on the net) and gets you running Now the best way fix this is buy a used sigma module and keypad supplied with at least 1 working fob or 4 pin code and swap the parts to your forester which childs play and then reprogram your fobs using instructions in the M30 doc in many threads on this site . Generally you can get a used m30 alarm with fob/code for £100 from breakers/eBay and it pretty easy work swap it over and reprogram or swap the working alarm fob board to your key if they the same fob style. I done this a few times for customers as cheapest fastest solution and keeps alarm spec standard and easy .use . Need any more help PM me as m30 is that common an alarm any auto electrician or auto locksmith that can't deal with them isn't worth paying ...

Yours is a SF forester so you want struts and springs as listed below > SF Right Absorber KYB 334191 Left Absorber KYB 334192 Protecton boots/bumps KYB 910072 Coilover Springs KYB RA5761 The SG struts 334345 334344 do fit but have slight difference in brake pipe bracket and lower spring seat is slightly higher so if use with RA5761 springs rear height is about 20mm over standard . You could buy the SG strut top mounts then use SG springs SG Right Absorber KYB 334344 Left Absorber KYB 334345 Coilover Springs KYB RC6431 (heavy duty RA6028) Springcoil could likely supply springs for your SG struts and SF strut mounts but if they haven't done it before it might be bit of guess on working out the coil length for perfect final ride height . You could also try SUPLEX SUP32034 springs with the SG struts and SF strut mounts as they little more low than KYB springs from my experience .

that will be the air valves, if in good mechanical order removal and very thorough cleaning can work but again if paying for the labour new parts tend work out better long term value repair . window is very affordable, secondary air could possibly be got working for couple hours labour but gamble how long lasts, welding shouldn't be that bad if this first rust repair and no previous MOT mention, they all rot pretty much same areas and I never seen one on first repair need much more than 300 or 400 worth of welding and sealing, welding repairs can vary drastically shop to shop but inner arch and turret not that difficult and material cost is very low . If you can't find better priced viable repairs you will be best selling it as those that can do the work themselves would find these common easier jobs a desirable repair car purchase .

the ecu assumes regen is needed by measuring back pressure which gets higher the more soot the dpf is holding, then when it decides regen it adding more fuel to heat the dpf to burn out the soot. DPF systems is an awful engineering concept and does nothing for environment as the system ruined diesel mpg economy and it wastes even more fuel and oil with regens ! With mileage you done DPF highly likely need replacing, you could try special cleaning but you be wiser spending on a top quality aftermarket dpf and at a independent garage as dealers be silly money on this job, you may even find oem dpf at better cost outside a dealership . Before jumping on the DPF you ideally want back pressure monitored to concluded DPF is too restrictive . You are right that if DPF is sorted then regen and oil dilution should be rectified but that assumes all else is working correct and DPF health is falling below functional level and this really needs be concluded to move forward with repair option . serious repetitive oil dilution is pretty serious issue and 1 reason towards the all too common crank failure .

It does not need a authorised subaru garage to flash non turbo ecu . personally I prefer simply replacing the pump as simplest solution with no future legal snags, aftermarket pump and fitting is roughly £240 which would be diag check that it is the fault and it not a control side issue, removal and refit which quick to do, code clearing and bidirectional test and colds start/road test .. I generally can get oem pumps working again but how long they function perfectly before trips CEL criteria is a gamble .

Well you should be fine then . They very easy work on as lot of design effort apparent on making repair route easier . The real key is making effort buy a proper tidy one and not assuming newer will be better .

800 sounds expensive for strut mounting, I done a few rear turret and arch repairs and including a total arch seam seal and stone guard refinishing dearest has been 600 and average 300 to 400 Drivers window an easy fix and common, don't buy a new motor, buy a used passenger side rear as they same front drivers side besides a water drain fitting needs clocking position changed and original harness tail swapped over (plugs in) they about £30 for tidy one and 1: don't get used much and 2: don't get water ingress in motor like on drivers door as motor sits upside down in passenger rear . You can improve motor drainage by removing motor housing and making 2 small weep holes and renew grease in bearing points but that beyond most garages . air pump a pain, is possible sometimes free them but if paying someone you best fitting quality new or getting it mapped out . Could list it spares or repair if you unable find repair route cost viable , right time of year for people look for 4wd and easy fix and worth doing if rest of car proper decent .

Best you see is 30, more likely is 26 to 28 for more short trip running around. They can make up for slightly less fuel efficiency from reliability thus annual repairs can be pretty much zero . General service costs are pretty low unless your garage ripping you off . Main thing here is don't get caught up in newer better as that far from real facts, Very late 90's to 2006 about best they get . You far smarter buying a older super clean car than chasing an well priced 2007 to 2010 . If going 2.5L or even the 3.0 you want earlier than a 55 plate (or first couple months if a 06) to get into favourable road tax class . The outback is a great versatile wagon 2.5L engine not too bad but the 3.0 EZ is subarus best and they last real well plus benefit from timing chain . 2.0L EJ also pretty solid lump but it be a Legacy model to get that . Out of the 2.5 or 3.0 the 3.0 wiser option as hardly any mpg difference and the strength/performance of the 3.0 makes it the best choice in most cases . I see 2.0 at 180K to 220K quite a lot and 3.0 same and more, they do 300K easy if serviced well (oil and filter regular the big key), 2.5 generally has head gasket issues which little bit spendy repair . The main criteria is buying wisely, look at a lot to learn the cars and inspecting them well and learn good from bad . Don't expect dealers be best options for clean cars, private sales generally always best and more honest . Generally you can find Outbacks super clean and FSH quite easily, don't be afraid pay extra 500 to 1K for old super clean car as it will pay you back many times over. The absolute most important part is educating yourself before purchase and view several models prior to any buying, make use of any local dealers that may have one even if not spec/price you want as the viewing experience will educate you into smarter final decision hopefully . If you completely no mechanical competence take a friend or friend of a friend who is, don't rely on likes of RAC inspections as they tend be a bit slack for what they charging . Basically the cars great, more so older models, just be sure choose wisely, if any niggles or doubts walk away and never take anything a dealer tells you as a fact, I in the trade and most silly stories of biggest junk and lies and silly prices always comes back to a dealer unfortunately .

you could keep the switch in with a cable tie for a temporary measure. Is easy fix or relocate. If garage charge to pricey picking up a used bracket online should not be too hard .

Yes, you can simply test with bonnet open by holding switch down with one hand and arming alarm from fob with other . We relocate those switches sometimes as pretty poor effort by sigma . Easy enough fab a bracket /use another generic alarm switch and lengthen wiring. in a pinch easy enough jump the wires so alarm thinks switch always pushed in . don't rule out doors and boot if bonnet switch doesn't appear at fault .

door boot or bonnet not shut or switch issue / check the bonnet switch as they on a bracket that tends get bent with people leaning in engine bay ... Use the manual link in this thread get basic understanding of your alarm .

Give the part number to a local subaru dealer parts counter . If you search for japan parts suppliers you find many companies in Japan that will ship oem parts and being small it might be affordable option . You may also find something suitable from eBay . https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=86636FG140&_sacat=0