Mr B

They a reasonably good balance between road and bit of light off road and pretty sensibly priced for Toyo Japan tyres . Never really is perfect tyre for both and having spare set of rims for road tyres can be good way go if do a lot of road miles between the off roading . Main downside with A/T is drop in mpg and possibly noise . Is hard one balance and only you going know your exact aimed usage and road conditions Other issue you have is not many choices in tyre size and speed rating you ideally want .

On the AWD system you want keep all 4 tyres as close same wear level (good tyre rotation a must on awd vehicles) and never different size and never different models either . you'll ruin transmission pretty quick with different sizes and even just size from wear difference front/rear as cooks the centre viscous diff due to axle speed differences . you can go up a tyre size without lift blocks no real problem so might be good idea get a full set (spare needs be same size too)

A power feed or ground connection issue that all those circuits feed on, Should be fairly easy find by tracing likely causes from wiring diagram and good old visual inspection to start with . Don't overlook ignition switch either although likely cause more faults and fault lights I expect but have consult wiring diagram to get full idea on possibilities ...

generally it just a case of the extra 10mm to the rear helps Ballance no SLS and gives car good stance . You could try 20mm all round as if using the HD springs it sits a little higher on rear any way and handles some load better . Best way is fit first, do measuring and see ride heights front and rear and compare to original ride heights then choose your spacers to get close to desired height from measured heights. I realize your time constraint on parts so a gamble on 20mm spacers all round could be good choice based on new kyb rear shocks with kyb HD springs . You can go up to 30mm without much hassle and no major effect on driveshafts but they will wear quicker due to angles if used off road a lot . You may also find you want trailing arm front mount spacer to centre wheel in rear arch at the 30mm+ lift

Is one in Europe but don't think they have them on shelf to ship and make to order . Will try dig up details as they do nice sump guards . You may find someone UK/Europe who stocks one of the US kits but it be pricey . Plus with Russian ones is good height choices and cost pretty low .

good job on using decent grade parts, skf boots decent and your brakes decent ... Any more decent DOT 4 fluid do on road ... We use castrol react mainly as deal with castrol oils a lot Motul is decent fluids .. Get out get some miles on her and some money into the economy lol ... Positioning difference of rear front arm bush generally differs to change castor value . Fozzy has difference too due to increased ride height as it a light suv station wagon off of what is a impreza chassis with different body panels . . another option to remember for removing rubber bushes ifnot in ideal environment let out the black smoke lol is drill lots of holes through the rubber then push centre out and go to hacksaw step. Threaded bar and sockets also make good forcing screw press although proper forcing screw and cup kits can be had for fairly sensible money these days . Keep up the good work and have fun wrenching 👍

The parts listed will fit all Forester SG models X XT XE , it mainly parts data that gives confusion of it not fitting . Some tyre options for subaru 16^ rim could be 215 65 16 , 225 60 16 or 215 70 16 *** Change of tyre size and lift block will need be declared to your insurer *** Don't laugh it off as they love refusing a claim based on this and in any major incident you will truly be in deep !Removed! . Insurers not as soft on this as was decade or 2 ago so educate yourself on it and speak to your insurers before doing it to see if they still cover you and if want a supplement charge to do so . My advise would be do the rear struts and see how it sits then review what height you actually like gain and cost of doing it legally with insurers. YOU can be penniless quite quickly these days in an accident and Insurance invalidated . I would say go with the HD springs mainly as they best compensate for fact you no longer have SLS thus ride height goes quite low on rear heavy loaded or heavy tongue weight trailer . Ride comfort is marginally better with standards but not much in it and what people consider decent will vary anyway . What I will say is you will notice a massive improvement over the current failing SLS. People don't realise how much of a safety issue it is but cornering, sudden swerve and braking will be far more controlled on new excel G struts and either spring option .

KYB excel G shocks 334344 334345 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Left-02-to-05-Damper/232563218743 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-Handed-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Right-02-to-05/333585256342 Springs (use heavy duty springs if load or tow it a lot and standard if just used more family light use road driven SUV) RC6431 standard duty https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Kayaba-RC6431-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Springs/323873684791 RA6028 heavy duty https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Kayaba-RA6028-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Springs/323874493110 Note: The seller (partsinmotion) who selling the shocks are always in the eBay coupon offers so you can get 20% off those prices if wait for a coupon . The seller also has the springs but price not as good as what linked above as a pair set . We use partsinmotion as registered business is near us and their prices on lot of parts far cheaper than best price on trade account factors we use. We actually stock parts from eBay sources using 20% discounts as that cheap and enables us fit better brand parts at competitive pricing . If you don't have spring compressor you need buy one but they under £15 . I would advise the KYB protection kit which includes the bump stops as yours will be pretty bad I expect, most are on ones I done Protection kit is under £20 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Dust-Cover-Kit-fits-SUBARU-IMPREZA-GG9-2-0-Rear-05-to-07-EJ204/333556449826 Lift blocks link below for you look at ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-strut-spacers-20mm-for-Subaru-BRZ-FORESTER-IMPREZA-LEGACY-OUTBACK-Lift-Kit/192541769644 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-strut-spacers-30mm-for-Subaru-FORESTER-IMPREZA-LEGACY-Lift-Kit/192541771902 Good thread on fitting shocks and finer details to SG forester >

Go KYB strut and spring. Cost will be under £200 and it easy DIY job on the SG . * I will link the parts (motorfactor trader on eBay) bit later as busy working at moment * Do not lift by adding longer spring because side efect of that is travel range of strut reduced . If want raise it use better quality lifting blocks with metal tube inserts found on ebay from russia (they well into foresters over there) I would do 20mm lift in rear and 10mm in front or max 30mm in rear and 20mm front . For more ground clearance you be best going up in tyres like 215 70 15 or 205 75 15 20mm rear 10mm front and 215 70 15 tyres give sensible gain and keep road handling as should be also get a alloy skid plate or make one for front sump and dump the plastic nappy subaru put on from the factory . The Fozzy is a big boy now and got no use for a nappy ...

Not just brakes, good tyres and suspension/steering in good condition too . Amount of people tight arses on poor shock and steering and worn bushes but don't care it causing more expense in ruining tyre set which important on a awd like subarus and also not bothered about safety, accident or recovery costs . Unfortunately UK MOT's are **** poor on suspensions especially shock condition, Australia for example has a performance test for shocks which a good idea. I would like see requirement of shock replacement at set mileage or age .

they look great now good job 👍

red rubber or silicone grease every time . That how it done at manufacture. brake fluid pretty corrosive so using that at assembly results in some of it in grooves to outer side of seals/boots and then aiding corrosion. the grease will help slow corrosion and feed and lubricate seals far better . Same as copper slip debate on slide pins and pad to calliper contact, that far from a great idea, silicone grease or ceramic grease (plenty available specific for brakes and cheap) do a far far better job, also any grease on pad hardware should be between pad mounting hardware and the caliper not in the track and on the ear of the pad that runs in the hardware groove (grease job is reduce noises and corrosion that would rust jack making pads become tight in clips . For DIY guys it worth picking up a tub of silicone grease and red rubber grease as last you decades and make your work better and easier . Again this not just my opinion but what happens at manufacture, is written in service data and trained to technicians at dealership training seminars .

That should be good to go . Is amazing what can clean up and rebuild if want to, we simply can't do it as labour and rebuild parts/materials come out 2 or 3 times the cost of a decent reman caliper . About most we do these days is piston boot and slide pins. In some circumstances we still do piston and seal but it generally due to parts availability and completion times or upgrade pistons/seals on good order calipers

It was front arms for recall but I do not recollect the SF forester had an issue or was included in the recall, SG was in the front control arm recall and done a few of them myself . . Best proper fix for that was alloy arms off the XT or a STI .

They the same as the impreza arms so easily available new or used . ebay and import car parts good places start looking . here's some used forester ones for £35 https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=forester+sf+trailing+arm&_sacat=0&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=4 you can find them listed under impreza bit cheaper, worth having bolts as they save a few quid if yours junk . Parts for the SF easily sourced and pretty cheap .

They run on e10 okay, not a lot more of an issue than e5, plenty Subarus of same manufacture spec in other countries on e10 for years .. Lot of reason murky doubt exists as creates a lot of scrap and new car sales . I'd just buy 99 octane premium as while may seem more expensive you get better mpg from it and long term less issues so cost balances out . e10 more of an issue on 2 stroke machinery and for an easy life premium well worth using . The whole environmental gain of ethanol another doubtful area if really look into it in source to manufacture and add in vehicle service/repair waste materials and actual equipment lifetime from using it .

an older one, newer models are not that long term durable .

You got 2 choices on these. Good effort on headgaskets or full rebuild . I've done a lot of them over the years and for road use standard cars if they good order low mileage head gasket issue dealt with quickly and no to light mods I done head gaskets only no issues if it passes my inspection criteria . And yes I warranty a head gaskets only as I know from experience it a long term repair if initial engine evaluation done . Full rebuilds are not without risks and you got be very choosy on who does the work, what machine shops and techniques/finishes they use and what parts are used . Most of your machine shops are useless, we have many local but need send parts 90 miles away to get work done to high enough standard and have more advanced machining solutions. The bearing issues arise from service neglect, neglect in dealing with head gasket symptoms and power increases . Full rebuilds became a tuner norm as more money to be made for less pre repair inspection effort and less risk plus most of their customer base more likely benefit or be willing pay for rebuilt engine . If bottom end was inspected with stethoscope, oil examined, bores scoped, general engine state and vehicle use and owners needs listened to then right choice can be made . Quite simply you can't bill every 2.5 customer a full rebuild. The engine and the owners need dictate what truly needs doing . UK market for 2.5 is small, if look at US, Canada and Australia you get a far better understanding of 2.5 repairs .

metal if replace filter in tank do so with oem parts only .

I wouldn't throw a working OEM pump away for aftermarket , none of the aftermarket or even bosch pumps match quality or lifespan of OEM japan . The Walbro pumps being good example of this . You could test pump with scope to see current draw and cumutator wave form which give good indication of health . OEM pumps on non turbo live an easy life ....

Just charge in car and if need pull battery for short period time (such as replacement) make a diy keep alive tool out of a pp3 battery or 12v power tool pack and some elec cable and 2 croc clips . Rapid drain is known issue on newer cars, ideally want look at a solar topup charger, Battery life will be seriously reduced due to prolonged discharge state so best avoided as much as possible for convenience and your wallet and environmental waste .

80mA is quite high. average in the auto world is between 20 and 55mA . When we test these we like to do a 24 to 48hr test with a bluetooth logging meter to a laptop (you sometimes find modules waking up for periods and drawing more current) Subaru newer models got a known by owners issue on battery drain if left standing for couple weeks . Dealers and Subaru themselves seem be ignoring it, I would assume it engineered into car electric systems and not a easy resolve . Is a nasty problem as besides potentially leaving you stranded it also going reduce battery life drastically which means more manufacture and recycle pollution (batteries are one of worst for pollution in manufacture and recyle) and another hit for your wallet . Modern cars are far from green , they consume ridiculous amount of parts, servicing chemicals in a very short lifespan . What they have got really good at is parting you with a lot of money for poor engineering poor quality, poor warranty and poor service support . .

^ Welcome to the new eco era .If it inherent issue on new range it needs a recall as battery drain in a week simply not fit for purpose, most manufacturers engineers design capacity and stationary current usage to last months, 7 days is a serious issue and I hearing many owners having drained battery issues ... If you want reliability and do your bit for environment older model vehicles do far better if review it in full spectrum not just tail pipe numbers . New car from pretty much any manufacturer a waste of time and money these days unfortunately .

measure the parasitic draw with vehicle locked and modules asleep . Ideally want a logging ability meter so can see instances where a module maybe waking up and pulling power . Anything over 60mA is too much, 35mA +- 10mA is more average . Even if drive it more or retains just enough charge to start your battery lifespan going be short due to discharge levels caused while inactive . It certainly a fault, no car would ever be designed have stationary parked current draw flatten a battery in 4 to 5 months let alone days . Your dealers response is ignorant at best, excuse not to get involved in a known difficult to resolve issue at worst ...

If fuel pump been going bad you had lot of potential running with fuel ratio lean. I would be suspecting engine damage . Your garage wants inspect cylinders with plugs removed and do a compression test . They also want test the ease of turning engine cold to ease when warmed up and cuts out . Piston and bottom engine damage fairly common when been running long durations with major faults ...