Mr B

They run on e10 okay, not a lot more of an issue than e5, plenty Subarus of same manufacture spec in other countries on e10 for years .. Lot of reason murky doubt exists as creates a lot of scrap and new car sales . I'd just buy 99 octane premium as while may seem more expensive you get better mpg from it and long term less issues so cost balances out . e10 more of an issue on 2 stroke machinery and for an easy life premium well worth using . The whole environmental gain of ethanol another doubtful area if really look into it in source to manufacture and add in vehicle service/repair waste materials and actual equipment lifetime from using it .

an older one, newer models are not that long term durable .

You got 2 choices on these. Good effort on headgaskets or full rebuild . I've done a lot of them over the years and for road use standard cars if they good order low mileage head gasket issue dealt with quickly and no to light mods I done head gaskets only no issues if it passes my inspection criteria . And yes I warranty a head gaskets only as I know from experience it a long term repair if initial engine evaluation done . Full rebuilds are not without risks and you got be very choosy on who does the work, what machine shops and techniques/finishes they use and what parts are used . Most of your machine shops are useless, we have many local but need send parts 90 miles away to get work done to high enough standard and have more advanced machining solutions. The bearing issues arise from service neglect, neglect in dealing with head gasket symptoms and power increases . Full rebuilds became a tuner norm as more money to be made for less pre repair inspection effort and less risk plus most of their customer base more likely benefit or be willing pay for rebuilt engine . If bottom end was inspected with stethoscope, oil examined, bores scoped, general engine state and vehicle use and owners needs listened to then right choice can be made . Quite simply you can't bill every 2.5 customer a full rebuild. The engine and the owners need dictate what truly needs doing . UK market for 2.5 is small, if look at US, Canada and Australia you get a far better understanding of 2.5 repairs .

metal if replace filter in tank do so with oem parts only .

I wouldn't throw a working OEM pump away for aftermarket , none of the aftermarket or even bosch pumps match quality or lifespan of OEM japan . The Walbro pumps being good example of this . You could test pump with scope to see current draw and cumutator wave form which give good indication of health . OEM pumps on non turbo live an easy life ....

Just charge in car and if need pull battery for short period time (such as replacement) make a diy keep alive tool out of a pp3 battery or 12v power tool pack and some elec cable and 2 croc clips . Rapid drain is known issue on newer cars, ideally want look at a solar topup charger, Battery life will be seriously reduced due to prolonged discharge state so best avoided as much as possible for convenience and your wallet and environmental waste .

80mA is quite high. average in the auto world is between 20 and 55mA . When we test these we like to do a 24 to 48hr test with a bluetooth logging meter to a laptop (you sometimes find modules waking up for periods and drawing more current) Subaru newer models got a known by owners issue on battery drain if left standing for couple weeks . Dealers and Subaru themselves seem be ignoring it, I would assume it engineered into car electric systems and not a easy resolve . Is a nasty problem as besides potentially leaving you stranded it also going reduce battery life drastically which means more manufacture and recycle pollution (batteries are one of worst for pollution in manufacture and recyle) and another hit for your wallet . Modern cars are far from green , they consume ridiculous amount of parts, servicing chemicals in a very short lifespan . What they have got really good at is parting you with a lot of money for poor engineering poor quality, poor warranty and poor service support . .

^ Welcome to the new eco era .If it inherent issue on new range it needs a recall as battery drain in a week simply not fit for purpose, most manufacturers engineers design capacity and stationary current usage to last months, 7 days is a serious issue and I hearing many owners having drained battery issues ... If you want reliability and do your bit for environment older model vehicles do far better if review it in full spectrum not just tail pipe numbers . New car from pretty much any manufacturer a waste of time and money these days unfortunately .

measure the parasitic draw with vehicle locked and modules asleep . Ideally want a logging ability meter so can see instances where a module maybe waking up and pulling power . Anything over 60mA is too much, 35mA +- 10mA is more average . Even if drive it more or retains just enough charge to start your battery lifespan going be short due to discharge levels caused while inactive . It certainly a fault, no car would ever be designed have stationary parked current draw flatten a battery in 4 to 5 months let alone days . Your dealers response is ignorant at best, excuse not to get involved in a known difficult to resolve issue at worst ...

If fuel pump been going bad you had lot of potential running with fuel ratio lean. I would be suspecting engine damage . Your garage wants inspect cylinders with plugs removed and do a compression test . They also want test the ease of turning engine cold to ease when warmed up and cuts out . Piston and bottom engine damage fairly common when been running long durations with major faults ...

But what have they sent you . You can tell the difference between 1.5 and 1.25 pitch by eye and comparing a new supplied nut and one off car, the one with closest together threads being 1.25 Any numbers stamped on any of the nuts .

standard subaru thread pitch is 1.25 (M12 x 1.25) . I assume from way you describe nuts going on 2 or 3 turns your purchased wheel nut are likely 1.5 thread pitch Be very much easier buying correct thread pitch nuts over replacing studs unless studs damaged or length is an issue . Be very careful as nuts need correct taper for wheels and also need be high quality, studs also need be high quality and correct interference fit to hub bores, Lot of nuts and studs found on eBay and similar are complete junk, off spec and potentially dangerous .

eBay here an example for 1 key sigma 30 type alarm > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-Service-For-1-button-Remote-Key-Fob-Forester-Impreza-Legacy-Outback/192366029811?hash=item2cc9e8abf3:g:6lgAAOSwZB9aDW57 ** Do check your keyfob matches service you buy ** If you on the sigma alarm be sure you have known working 4 digit pin code to manually control alarm via keypad . ** If you don't have a PIN you can easily reset PIN while have a working remote ** With a working remote or working PIN these alarms easy deal with at low cost, break all the keyfobs and have no working PIN and cost esculate as does hassle/stress . Also realise it easy buy a used good keyfob and put circuit board into your keyfob housing and program it to alram module (as long as have a working PIN or 1 working keyfob) should yours be none repairable .. Be proactive now for the easy fix/solutions and easy life .... too many people ignore alarm issues until it too late ...

Good job 👍 Those arms still be in service when you up for retirement ... saved lot of money doing it yourself and using oem used alloy arms . Subarus are actually pretty easy work on so don't be afraid attempt more repairs, just research well and be prepared with good information, parts and tools ... here's a service manual that will aid you a bit ... http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2003/ http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2004/

basically lot of garages simply won't be doing enough power steering repairs have knowledge or equipment test it easily or in sensible time frame so part swap on educated guess tends be preferred method and I had do that a few times on systems that didn't attach to test gauges or test cost exceeds part swap cost . most time it pump on subarus and as the pump known failure it not a great buy as a used part, You can get overhaul kit for the pumps and that route I go if internal housing surfaces decent enough . Recon pumps or low cost pattern part are bit of gamble too these days as everything about lowest cost manufacture to enable cheap retail baiting on products hardly fit for purpose . If you supply the parts to mechanic then not really fully his fault but if he diagnosed as pump and supplied pump then he got put mess right . One of the biggest issues we have in trade today is part quality, while I use a lot of used genuine parts in lot of cases power steering is area need extra care/checks ... Hopefully garage will help the OP out and get issue resolved minimal fuss ! ....

Junk replacement pump probably. Looks like it likely cavitating to me . Generally they self bleed easily with few lock to lock turns Pumps on these easy strip down, Plenty used pumps or new/.recon . what was exact issues that got it in garage for replacement pump ? I would get this looked at asap before a bigger issue . If garage supplied pump get them swap it out again . Both pump and rack easy work on so don't wrrite it off yet . Biggest issue is lot of mechanics useless at diagnosing/working with hydraulics and throw in used parts the end results can be more problems than initially had .

Good job . give it bit of time and you should be able get refunded via eBay/PayPal if wait out the lengthy procedure . You second purchase looks better buy ... Going alloy arms is best way forward, quality parts which will last longer and better safety aspect over lower spec pattern parts .

We use them sometimes as local to us, although they got other premises such as in leeds . they often in sellers for ebay coupons and work out dirt cheap on some items, my stock of kyb japan struts came from them . you be a skilled lube tech by time used all the oil and filters, have fun with the fozzy .

Yes more than suitable for general road use . get a 10, 15 or 20% eBay coupon and it silly cheap . The ADL Blueprint oil filters (ADM52106) are very decent and japan made, you can get them for £3.50ish from local motor factors if you come across as trade and buy perhaps 4 or more .

assuming manual a GL5 75W90 , 4L gearbox and just under a litre for rear diff (0.8) Millers would do you, or Castrol perhaps, If want support a family run british oil blender westway do some pretty good value gear oils

I would go 10w40 at most in your turbo fozzy and if it not using oil and engine sounds rattle/knock free then 5w40 be fine . we used the 15w40 for scenarios of some oil burning and light engine noises where a thicker oil can add bit more protection/oil control and reduce/stop noise . If doing bit more miles then you likely benefit doing 2 changes a year then you could use a 10w40 cover summer and 5w40 winter . any oils from good brands like milllers castrol mobil 1 do fine, buying and stocking up on oil via eBay when they have 15 or 20% off can make oil servicing cheap for quality oil .

5w40 or 10w40 on higher mileage, we have some 200K+ cars that in evaluated cases use 15w40 to balance some engine wear and give few more years potential use . wouldn't worry to much on long life requirement as be far better change oil/filter yearly . Millers are good oils but point is don't overspend on extending oil drain times as more regular changes are what makes the big difference to engines long term .

did yours come with the bolts for the rear bush mounts ? We see lot of the cheap suspension parts causing mot remarks or fail within 2yrs. Even some known name parts these days far from great . Good luck fitting, is fairly easy, pinch bolt in knuckle for removing ball joint can be difficult if heavily rusted, spray everything up in advance with penetrating oil as will help . If for any reason you need remove hub knuckle from car remember the upper strut to hub knuckle is a camber setting bolt so mark/reference bolt head position so refitting keeps camber setting close to pre disassembly .

The pattern arms are not great quality, if hunt around you can find them around £50 (Sidem ABS MS JapanParts brands) I recommend OEM used alloy arms as in your link and fit any bushes ball joints drop links as needed make the job good . Brands like febi bilstien adl-blueprint, delphi moog 555 meyle-HD good for bushes etc Be sure used alloy arms complete with taper cone inserts for balljoint . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Impreza-Classic-Bugeye-Blobeye-WRX-STi-Front-Alloy-Wishbones-Control-Arms/193308582642 low quality/poor brand suspension parts let you down in handling tyre wear and life span .

the denso sensors in subaru packaging are silly money, if need sensors source them as Denso brand, diagnosing wiser than throwing parts at it in high component cost scenarios like this .