Mr B

But what have they sent you . You can tell the difference between 1.5 and 1.25 pitch by eye and comparing a new supplied nut and one off car, the one with closest together threads being 1.25 Any numbers stamped on any of the nuts .

standard subaru thread pitch is 1.25 (M12 x 1.25) . I assume from way you describe nuts going on 2 or 3 turns your purchased wheel nut are likely 1.5 thread pitch Be very much easier buying correct thread pitch nuts over replacing studs unless studs damaged or length is an issue . Be very careful as nuts need correct taper for wheels and also need be high quality, studs also need be high quality and correct interference fit to hub bores, Lot of nuts and studs found on eBay and similar are complete junk, off spec and potentially dangerous .

eBay here an example for 1 key sigma 30 type alarm > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-Service-For-1-button-Remote-Key-Fob-Forester-Impreza-Legacy-Outback/192366029811?hash=item2cc9e8abf3:g:6lgAAOSwZB9aDW57 ** Do check your keyfob matches service you buy ** If you on the sigma alarm be sure you have known working 4 digit pin code to manually control alarm via keypad . ** If you don't have a PIN you can easily reset PIN while have a working remote ** With a working remote or working PIN these alarms easy deal with at low cost, break all the keyfobs and have no working PIN and cost esculate as does hassle/stress . Also realise it easy buy a used good keyfob and put circuit board into your keyfob housing and program it to alram module (as long as have a working PIN or 1 working keyfob) should yours be none repairable .. Be proactive now for the easy fix/solutions and easy life .... too many people ignore alarm issues until it too late ...

Good job 👍 Those arms still be in service when you up for retirement ... saved lot of money doing it yourself and using oem used alloy arms . Subarus are actually pretty easy work on so don't be afraid attempt more repairs, just research well and be prepared with good information, parts and tools ... here's a service manual that will aid you a bit ... http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2003/ http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2004/

basically lot of garages simply won't be doing enough power steering repairs have knowledge or equipment test it easily or in sensible time frame so part swap on educated guess tends be preferred method and I had do that a few times on systems that didn't attach to test gauges or test cost exceeds part swap cost . most time it pump on subarus and as the pump known failure it not a great buy as a used part, You can get overhaul kit for the pumps and that route I go if internal housing surfaces decent enough . Recon pumps or low cost pattern part are bit of gamble too these days as everything about lowest cost manufacture to enable cheap retail baiting on products hardly fit for purpose . If you supply the parts to mechanic then not really fully his fault but if he diagnosed as pump and supplied pump then he got put mess right . One of the biggest issues we have in trade today is part quality, while I use a lot of used genuine parts in lot of cases power steering is area need extra care/checks ... Hopefully garage will help the OP out and get issue resolved minimal fuss ! ....

Junk replacement pump probably. Looks like it likely cavitating to me . Generally they self bleed easily with few lock to lock turns Pumps on these easy strip down, Plenty used pumps or new/.recon . what was exact issues that got it in garage for replacement pump ? I would get this looked at asap before a bigger issue . If garage supplied pump get them swap it out again . Both pump and rack easy work on so don't wrrite it off yet . Biggest issue is lot of mechanics useless at diagnosing/working with hydraulics and throw in used parts the end results can be more problems than initially had .

Good job . give it bit of time and you should be able get refunded via eBay/PayPal if wait out the lengthy procedure . You second purchase looks better buy ... Going alloy arms is best way forward, quality parts which will last longer and better safety aspect over lower spec pattern parts .

We use them sometimes as local to us, although they got other premises such as in leeds . they often in sellers for ebay coupons and work out dirt cheap on some items, my stock of kyb japan struts came from them . you be a skilled lube tech by time used all the oil and filters, have fun with the fozzy .

Yes more than suitable for general road use . get a 10, 15 or 20% eBay coupon and it silly cheap . The ADL Blueprint oil filters (ADM52106) are very decent and japan made, you can get them for £3.50ish from local motor factors if you come across as trade and buy perhaps 4 or more .

assuming manual a GL5 75W90 , 4L gearbox and just under a litre for rear diff (0.8) Millers would do you, or Castrol perhaps, If want support a family run british oil blender westway do some pretty good value gear oils

I would go 10w40 at most in your turbo fozzy and if it not using oil and engine sounds rattle/knock free then 5w40 be fine . we used the 15w40 for scenarios of some oil burning and light engine noises where a thicker oil can add bit more protection/oil control and reduce/stop noise . If doing bit more miles then you likely benefit doing 2 changes a year then you could use a 10w40 cover summer and 5w40 winter . any oils from good brands like milllers castrol mobil 1 do fine, buying and stocking up on oil via eBay when they have 15 or 20% off can make oil servicing cheap for quality oil .

5w40 or 10w40 on higher mileage, we have some 200K+ cars that in evaluated cases use 15w40 to balance some engine wear and give few more years potential use . wouldn't worry to much on long life requirement as be far better change oil/filter yearly . Millers are good oils but point is don't overspend on extending oil drain times as more regular changes are what makes the big difference to engines long term .

did yours come with the bolts for the rear bush mounts ? We see lot of the cheap suspension parts causing mot remarks or fail within 2yrs. Even some known name parts these days far from great . Good luck fitting, is fairly easy, pinch bolt in knuckle for removing ball joint can be difficult if heavily rusted, spray everything up in advance with penetrating oil as will help . If for any reason you need remove hub knuckle from car remember the upper strut to hub knuckle is a camber setting bolt so mark/reference bolt head position so refitting keeps camber setting close to pre disassembly .

The pattern arms are not great quality, if hunt around you can find them around £50 (Sidem ABS MS JapanParts brands) I recommend OEM used alloy arms as in your link and fit any bushes ball joints drop links as needed make the job good . Brands like febi bilstien adl-blueprint, delphi moog 555 meyle-HD good for bushes etc Be sure used alloy arms complete with taper cone inserts for balljoint . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Impreza-Classic-Bugeye-Blobeye-WRX-STi-Front-Alloy-Wishbones-Control-Arms/193308582642 low quality/poor brand suspension parts let you down in handling tyre wear and life span .

the denso sensors in subaru packaging are silly money, if need sensors source them as Denso brand, diagnosing wiser than throwing parts at it in high component cost scenarios like this .

without having checked emissions prior to fitting the cat back you only assuming the cat back causing the issue . Have you got printout from MOT emission test . Simple things like exhaust leak, damage sensor/wiring and on systems where lamda position in replacement system can effect function . Best way attack this is visual inspection and graphing pre and post lambda sensors as the response and readings generally tell you likely source of issues if nothing obvious from visual inspections .

Not good parts, keep oem arm and re-bush it ... Top brand parts are a must on suspension .

The keypad is quite touchy how use and time between key pressing etc got be just right, read the manual and practice with the code so know how do it right . when in a panic with no working fobs is never best time learn keypad etiquette lol ... Also get a spare key, a transponder key (minus alarm fob, you use code via keypad) can be done by any auto locksmith for sensible money (£30-£40) . Plus side now you got known good pin code is can program a new fob board easily, a used key off eBay like 20 to £30 and you just swap fob board to your key housing and program it ... job jobbed . Don't get a key/keyfob via dealer as you get wallet robbed generally ...

Without Sigma programming interface you can only change an unknown pin when have a working remote fob (and you don't) . When only have 1 key it absolute MUST to have the pin to save this ballache and expense .. You could try drying key board out in a bag with some rice, could also try a key fob repair service you find online, they normally under £30 If key can't be repaired you going need find someone who can program Sigma alarms or buy a used Sigma alarm module with working keys and swap module to your car and swap the alarm fob board to your key (this method pretty low cost solution and diy possible) link to sigma manual > https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ

Guess that was a heater control circuit low ? exact codes/details enables far better answers . euro car parts about last people ever want use if want quality parts or real value . They a bit like sports direct buying known brand names and sticking those brands on very poor quality parts and retail it at twice real price then discount code it make consumers think it sale of the decade when in reality it overpriced tat The OEM sensors are denso and denso is all we use as less problems out the packet and lasts properly . You can test heater circuit with incandescent bulb . you want test heater element resistance in old and new sensor too .

If your clock time reset then too late . No big deal rest clock and radio settings, we try avoid that scenario as much as possible as customers happier less little hassles we can avoid . Battery maybe recoverable to some level but for time and effort and age it be far better time and money on a new one . I would check charging system and parasitic draw unless you got known reason for battery current state .

Oh boy, hopefully works out one way or other in end .

It not a big deal but if you want save any potential hassle use a 9v pp3 battery (could also use a 12v power tool battery) and make up some leads from some cable with croc clips o ends and attach that on alternator output lead and clean earth point and you got yourself a memory power backup tool while quick change the battery. I do this for quick battery changes in the yard, saves any hassles and don't even need reset the clock time .

13.1 ain't good . The voltage only half the story from alternator , what amps it kicking out and what ripple it show on a scope . What make alternator is it, can you see a label on it ? I would proceed push them harder, if they can't check amp output or ripple just push HARD get it swapped. I been in the auto repair game over 30 years and dealt with subarus close to 25yrs and a charge voltage as low as 13.1 is suspect, I class anything under 13.7 suspect and generally it always be over 14 on oem alternator as they that good and regulate voltage to a tight range . Junky aftermarket and refurbs can be problematic . standard test range is 13.5 to 14.4 An AGM battery for example would not charge at 13.1 .

Did you increase rpm or that at idle ? even at idle I expect see over 13.7 . Does look likely alternator output issue so best speak with garage that fitted it. they'll be able test and have warranty on that part if they smart and no additional charges for you if it recently done . A plus is alternator easy accessed and replaced on these cars . I had lot of issues with starters and alternators reman and pattern part over the years to point we only got 1 reman company we willing use and prefer used genuine over anything pattern part new . Need be very fussy with parts used these days (it not always cost related either) ...