Mr B

without having checked emissions prior to fitting the cat back you only assuming the cat back causing the issue . Have you got printout from MOT emission test . Simple things like exhaust leak, damage sensor/wiring and on systems where lamda position in replacement system can effect function . Best way attack this is visual inspection and graphing pre and post lambda sensors as the response and readings generally tell you likely source of issues if nothing obvious from visual inspections .

Not good parts, keep oem arm and re-bush it ... Top brand parts are a must on suspension .

The keypad is quite touchy how use and time between key pressing etc got be just right, read the manual and practice with the code so know how do it right . when in a panic with no working fobs is never best time learn keypad etiquette lol ... Also get a spare key, a transponder key (minus alarm fob, you use code via keypad) can be done by any auto locksmith for sensible money (£30-£40) . Plus side now you got known good pin code is can program a new fob board easily, a used key off eBay like 20 to £30 and you just swap fob board to your key housing and program it ... job jobbed . Don't get a key/keyfob via dealer as you get wallet robbed generally ...

Without Sigma programming interface you can only change an unknown pin when have a working remote fob (and you don't) . When only have 1 key it absolute MUST to have the pin to save this ballache and expense .. You could try drying key board out in a bag with some rice, could also try a key fob repair service you find online, they normally under £30 If key can't be repaired you going need find someone who can program Sigma alarms or buy a used Sigma alarm module with working keys and swap module to your car and swap the alarm fob board to your key (this method pretty low cost solution and diy possible) link to sigma manual > https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ

Guess that was a heater control circuit low ? exact codes/details enables far better answers . euro car parts about last people ever want use if want quality parts or real value . They a bit like sports direct buying known brand names and sticking those brands on very poor quality parts and retail it at twice real price then discount code it make consumers think it sale of the decade when in reality it overpriced tat The OEM sensors are denso and denso is all we use as less problems out the packet and lasts properly . You can test heater circuit with incandescent bulb . you want test heater element resistance in old and new sensor too .

If your clock time reset then too late . No big deal rest clock and radio settings, we try avoid that scenario as much as possible as customers happier less little hassles we can avoid . Battery maybe recoverable to some level but for time and effort and age it be far better time and money on a new one . I would check charging system and parasitic draw unless you got known reason for battery current state .

Oh boy, hopefully works out one way or other in end .

It not a big deal but if you want save any potential hassle use a 9v pp3 battery (could also use a 12v power tool battery) and make up some leads from some cable with croc clips o ends and attach that on alternator output lead and clean earth point and you got yourself a memory power backup tool while quick change the battery. I do this for quick battery changes in the yard, saves any hassles and don't even need reset the clock time .

13.1 ain't good . The voltage only half the story from alternator , what amps it kicking out and what ripple it show on a scope . What make alternator is it, can you see a label on it ? I would proceed push them harder, if they can't check amp output or ripple just push HARD get it swapped. I been in the auto repair game over 30 years and dealt with subarus close to 25yrs and a charge voltage as low as 13.1 is suspect, I class anything under 13.7 suspect and generally it always be over 14 on oem alternator as they that good and regulate voltage to a tight range . Junky aftermarket and refurbs can be problematic . standard test range is 13.5 to 14.4 An AGM battery for example would not charge at 13.1 .

Did you increase rpm or that at idle ? even at idle I expect see over 13.7 . Does look likely alternator output issue so best speak with garage that fitted it. they'll be able test and have warranty on that part if they smart and no additional charges for you if it recently done . A plus is alternator easy accessed and replaced on these cars . I had lot of issues with starters and alternators reman and pattern part over the years to point we only got 1 reman company we willing use and prefer used genuine over anything pattern part new . Need be very fussy with parts used these days (it not always cost related either) ...

The subaru charging that simple just about anyone can get some diagnosis results on basics of if or how well it appears be working . If you googled few pages on testing alternators/charging and watched a youtube video or 2 you could be fairly competent yourself for basic checks and be able spot the obvious or have good idea on direction of issue . amount of garages that just fits parts or tell you it possibly this or maybe that is ridiculous on simple issues such as a charging system . See how you get on and keep us updated .

regulated voltage (running) seems low, normally at 13.7 to 14.2 even at idle, did you increase revs to see if voltage increased . I would be suspicious of your charging system and suggest either read up on doing some further test yourself or get it checked out, the dealer who fitted that alternator may do some quick tests free if you think alternator/charge output an issue . a poor new alternator or a poor connection voltage drop that present before the alternator swap could still be present perhaps . I would test your running voltage again at battery posts and at 2000rpm and then also test at the alternator large cable output stud (+ multimeter lead right on the alternator stud) and if voltage at alternator much higher than at battery post you got connection issue causing voltage drop . If voltage at alternator and battery same and as low as your first test results then that alternator looks likely an issue. If it aftermaket or reman it not uncommon as lot of pretty junk parts hardly fit for purpose in the market these days .

I would bite the bullet and get new kyb struts and springs for the rear. sagging sls affect rear handling massively . they all end up mot fail eventually due to oil leak/misting . bit of rust prevention mainly rear end around subframe/suspension can pay you back big if planning keep car for years . Generally good practical and reliable awd station wagon and overall costing not bad as low parts prices and reliability offset fuel/tax costs ... Good set of all weather tyres can be an upgrade if you in an area of diverse weather and really rely on the awd ability more than most . Have fun with it, great all round vehicle that so easy live with .

Fingers crossed it as simple as water causing a surface short . If you got a basic multimeter you can check your running charge voltage with lot of elecs turned on (low 14v normal for subaru) and also check you battery voltage before and after it sat for 12-24hrs (lead acid battery around 12.6 close to 95% charged and 12.0 close to 50%) If you got inductive clamp meter you can check current output from alternator which can be up to little over 100amp pending what elecs on and charge state of battery . I doubt alternator bad again but remans or the off brand replacements can be shabby . certainly worth get some idea your battery not draining and alternator working as perfect time of year get stranded and be a pain plus if alternator doubts you want follow up on that for warranty replacement asap . Need look at that water ingress, from bonnet as never a good thing . amount of car I see with new battery and alternator and yet still with problem is shocking, even more shocking when they billed over 300 and then needing the second opinion as no one really diagnosed issue before meddling .... Hopefully your scenario 2 separate issues but be careful as too many garages seem like shoot parts rather than make effort with diagnosis and on simple stuff like this it can get silly for the owner ...

It is possible alternator flattening battery (diode issue will cause this) It really basic checks and no 'think it is' required . My assumption is your mechanic not good at these checks and that reason you a new alternator and battery into this and underlying issue still present . Testing output of alternator also basic check so pretty easy conclude if charging or not and with a scope and current clamp you know how healthy it is in minutes . You ideally want to do a current draw test with vehicle in sleep mode as such and then if record high current draw (anything more than 250ma) trace down the source. The alternator can be checked for parasitic draw right at the terminal inline with any cheap multimeter and again a 10 minute test that a mechanics bread and butter and pretty much daily test task in a repair garage heavy winter time . Simply checking your battery voltage with a multimeter before and after parked up over night likely give you evidence that it discharging abnormally and give you direction to head in with diagnosis of the issue rather than wasting money shooting expensive parts at it . Be careful as unfortunately your mechanic is spending your money and not his own and fact you got lot of shiny new parts put still an issue has me concerned on ability of those checking it . The battery and charging system on these subarus is dead simple and quality oem parts that dead easy diagnose generally ...

They non SLS , (SLS is only made by Tokico) generally the japan market won't have SLS and more so for stb forester but always best assume nothing and check as you never know if been swapped out at some point .

Looks to me you having parts thrown at it to try cure an issue rather than diagnose the issue . Subaru electrics are pretty basic and also pretty reliable so generally it not hard pin an issue down . My suspicion would be parasitic drawer or voltage drop from bad connection on a main large battery connection at some point . All this fairly easily checked and bread and butter work for any half competent mechanic and also very achievable for diy guy, A fault like these soon pull a new battery down and colder weather just highlights the low state of charge . I doubt the car much of a problem but more the mechanic not dealing with it well .

need check battery and parasitic draw .

No extra pipes and to be sure on what currently fitted you want look at the part number on the shock label . Generally a SLS strut will always sag if leaking, you also know physically what they are when removed as SLS has incredibly high gas pressure and almost impossible compress piston fully by hand .

If it short soft chirps it the alarms built in warning for low battery voltage level . The alarm also has a code mode via the alrm keypad that displays current battery voltage via blinks of the alarm status led . You possibly need be checking for parasitic draw issue if this the case .

Bypass is the easiest, if want do it DIY you can even buy a bypass plug you attach to alarm harness. If want buy used unit always buy with at least 1 working remote or a pin code . as then you can simply plug in alarm module and add your remotes in and reset pin easily (instructions/manual linked on here a hundred times) . First thing you need be sure is sigma alarm module bad rather than power/grounds to module or your actual no start is not down to skim key transponder chip and ecu immobiliser module as that separate to the sigma immobiliser/alarm or perhaps even some other electrical issue . If alarm not responding to arm/disarm, shows no status via blinking alarm led or no life using pin code then it first area to look at, ideally power/grounds and obvious visual checks need doing rather than just shooting parts at it but sigma module issues not uncommon . Buying used with key or code makes it cheap and quick fix for someone up to speed on the alarm or does homework on it first . As mentioned above any recent reasons or other symptoms with car recently need be mentioned as might help jump to a more direct diagnosis/fix route . I lost count on how many modules we swapped out our replaced relays on the board . Swapping out and programming in key fobs and resetting a pin code is quick fix, we do that in hours labour charge, cheaper than a nice tidy bypass or messing with alarm board generally .

Do you have the pin code ? What is the alarm led doing with ignition turned all way on and alarm fob pressed . Good news is alarm is pretty easy bypass or module swapped out for used units sold with remotes . M30 alarm is well known alarm unit so surprised no professionals locally helping ...

The studs on top mount are pressed in on splines, they knock out easy enough (off car they do anyway, have removed they to fit longer studs for lift block kits) m10 10.9 bolt could be used as replacement but need be held while doing nut up . They pretty strong bolts as standard, like 12.9 high tensile . You must of been giving it the full beans. subaru torque setting for those top mount to body stud nuts is 20N-m (15ft-lb) I snug um by hand on 1/4" ratchet mainly due access and don't fully remove top trim as saves time and keeps trim fixings A1 order . I do it by feel, you know when torqued fastener out and you entering yeild (stretch/shear) territory ... My main concern be you over tightened the other studs also if reefed them all good un tight thus is slight risk they stretched/weakened . I seen cars that been driven for years with worse but obviously could never say it fine as good working practice, your safety and my liability means job needs doing right 😉

I have had 4 customers with issues on speed rating, hence why I advised contacting insurer before buying . Main issue is insurers clueless to technicality of it . I can understand T being more debatable but H seems more than fine for UK road use as never going exceed 130mph lol and load rating far more critical aspect . I would also ask your insurers if they happy for you to be doing over 130mph on UK public roads if they want you have V rating Most important factors is tyre match to your regional conditions and quality and load rating and your nokians better than OEM tyres by a long shot . Reality is they more than suitable winter and summer use . Do need be careful as having insurance invalidated after an accident has potential for wiping you clean financially . First case I heard of was this scenario and legal costs went over 70 grand over several years . Your best bet is keep working with your current insurer and get it in writing underwriter accepts it .. You just going need ring a few companies and see how they respond . Is a ridiculous scenario and mainly derived from ignorance from insurers on what good tyre choices and wanting easy escape clauses . You always best telling them as you buying car insurance that you can't use in a more serious accident scenario by overlooking it . Ignoring the issue doesn't fix the issue and insurance companies need a massive kick in the bo11ocks; over this one .. Churchill accepted one of my customers on all season same scenario as you . I'm on traders policy and only got one company cover modifications and grey import cars .

Yeh they use quality aramid cord and quality rubbers . weatherproof Is a particularly nice tire and complete value for money ... Is a great tyre for british weather and proper B-road AWD . I do know some insurers can be awkard on the tyre speed rating not matching factory spec . H more than suitable but if want belt and braces it always best communicate these details before a claim situation . I know of more than 1 case where insururers refused pay out due to tyre speed rating not to oem tyre criteria . Keep enjoying the Fozzy, best wishes ...