Mr B

The subaru charging that simple just about anyone can get some diagnosis results on basics of if or how well it appears be working . If you googled few pages on testing alternators/charging and watched a youtube video or 2 you could be fairly competent yourself for basic checks and be able spot the obvious or have good idea on direction of issue . amount of garages that just fits parts or tell you it possibly this or maybe that is ridiculous on simple issues such as a charging system . See how you get on and keep us updated .

regulated voltage (running) seems low, normally at 13.7 to 14.2 even at idle, did you increase revs to see if voltage increased . I would be suspicious of your charging system and suggest either read up on doing some further test yourself or get it checked out, the dealer who fitted that alternator may do some quick tests free if you think alternator/charge output an issue . a poor new alternator or a poor connection voltage drop that present before the alternator swap could still be present perhaps . I would test your running voltage again at battery posts and at 2000rpm and then also test at the alternator large cable output stud (+ multimeter lead right on the alternator stud) and if voltage at alternator much higher than at battery post you got connection issue causing voltage drop . If voltage at alternator and battery same and as low as your first test results then that alternator looks likely an issue. If it aftermaket or reman it not uncommon as lot of pretty junk parts hardly fit for purpose in the market these days .

I would bite the bullet and get new kyb struts and springs for the rear. sagging sls affect rear handling massively . they all end up mot fail eventually due to oil leak/misting . bit of rust prevention mainly rear end around subframe/suspension can pay you back big if planning keep car for years . Generally good practical and reliable awd station wagon and overall costing not bad as low parts prices and reliability offset fuel/tax costs ... Good set of all weather tyres can be an upgrade if you in an area of diverse weather and really rely on the awd ability more than most . Have fun with it, great all round vehicle that so easy live with .

Fingers crossed it as simple as water causing a surface short . If you got a basic multimeter you can check your running charge voltage with lot of elecs turned on (low 14v normal for subaru) and also check you battery voltage before and after it sat for 12-24hrs (lead acid battery around 12.6 close to 95% charged and 12.0 close to 50%) If you got inductive clamp meter you can check current output from alternator which can be up to little over 100amp pending what elecs on and charge state of battery . I doubt alternator bad again but remans or the off brand replacements can be shabby . certainly worth get some idea your battery not draining and alternator working as perfect time of year get stranded and be a pain plus if alternator doubts you want follow up on that for warranty replacement asap . Need look at that water ingress, from bonnet as never a good thing . amount of car I see with new battery and alternator and yet still with problem is shocking, even more shocking when they billed over 300 and then needing the second opinion as no one really diagnosed issue before meddling .... Hopefully your scenario 2 separate issues but be careful as too many garages seem like shoot parts rather than make effort with diagnosis and on simple stuff like this it can get silly for the owner ...

It is possible alternator flattening battery (diode issue will cause this) It really basic checks and no 'think it is' required . My assumption is your mechanic not good at these checks and that reason you a new alternator and battery into this and underlying issue still present . Testing output of alternator also basic check so pretty easy conclude if charging or not and with a scope and current clamp you know how healthy it is in minutes . You ideally want to do a current draw test with vehicle in sleep mode as such and then if record high current draw (anything more than 250ma) trace down the source. The alternator can be checked for parasitic draw right at the terminal inline with any cheap multimeter and again a 10 minute test that a mechanics bread and butter and pretty much daily test task in a repair garage heavy winter time . Simply checking your battery voltage with a multimeter before and after parked up over night likely give you evidence that it discharging abnormally and give you direction to head in with diagnosis of the issue rather than wasting money shooting expensive parts at it . Be careful as unfortunately your mechanic is spending your money and not his own and fact you got lot of shiny new parts put still an issue has me concerned on ability of those checking it . The battery and charging system on these subarus is dead simple and quality oem parts that dead easy diagnose generally ...

They non SLS , (SLS is only made by Tokico) generally the japan market won't have SLS and more so for stb forester but always best assume nothing and check as you never know if been swapped out at some point .

Looks to me you having parts thrown at it to try cure an issue rather than diagnose the issue . Subaru electrics are pretty basic and also pretty reliable so generally it not hard pin an issue down . My suspicion would be parasitic drawer or voltage drop from bad connection on a main large battery connection at some point . All this fairly easily checked and bread and butter work for any half competent mechanic and also very achievable for diy guy, A fault like these soon pull a new battery down and colder weather just highlights the low state of charge . I doubt the car much of a problem but more the mechanic not dealing with it well .

need check battery and parasitic draw .

No extra pipes and to be sure on what currently fitted you want look at the part number on the shock label . Generally a SLS strut will always sag if leaking, you also know physically what they are when removed as SLS has incredibly high gas pressure and almost impossible compress piston fully by hand .

If it short soft chirps it the alarms built in warning for low battery voltage level . The alarm also has a code mode via the alrm keypad that displays current battery voltage via blinks of the alarm status led . You possibly need be checking for parasitic draw issue if this the case .

Bypass is the easiest, if want do it DIY you can even buy a bypass plug you attach to alarm harness. If want buy used unit always buy with at least 1 working remote or a pin code . as then you can simply plug in alarm module and add your remotes in and reset pin easily (instructions/manual linked on here a hundred times) . First thing you need be sure is sigma alarm module bad rather than power/grounds to module or your actual no start is not down to skim key transponder chip and ecu immobiliser module as that separate to the sigma immobiliser/alarm or perhaps even some other electrical issue . If alarm not responding to arm/disarm, shows no status via blinking alarm led or no life using pin code then it first area to look at, ideally power/grounds and obvious visual checks need doing rather than just shooting parts at it but sigma module issues not uncommon . Buying used with key or code makes it cheap and quick fix for someone up to speed on the alarm or does homework on it first . As mentioned above any recent reasons or other symptoms with car recently need be mentioned as might help jump to a more direct diagnosis/fix route . I lost count on how many modules we swapped out our replaced relays on the board . Swapping out and programming in key fobs and resetting a pin code is quick fix, we do that in hours labour charge, cheaper than a nice tidy bypass or messing with alarm board generally .

Do you have the pin code ? What is the alarm led doing with ignition turned all way on and alarm fob pressed . Good news is alarm is pretty easy bypass or module swapped out for used units sold with remotes . M30 alarm is well known alarm unit so surprised no professionals locally helping ...

The studs on top mount are pressed in on splines, they knock out easy enough (off car they do anyway, have removed they to fit longer studs for lift block kits) m10 10.9 bolt could be used as replacement but need be held while doing nut up . They pretty strong bolts as standard, like 12.9 high tensile . You must of been giving it the full beans. subaru torque setting for those top mount to body stud nuts is 20N-m (15ft-lb) I snug um by hand on 1/4" ratchet mainly due access and don't fully remove top trim as saves time and keeps trim fixings A1 order . I do it by feel, you know when torqued fastener out and you entering yeild (stretch/shear) territory ... My main concern be you over tightened the other studs also if reefed them all good un tight thus is slight risk they stretched/weakened . I seen cars that been driven for years with worse but obviously could never say it fine as good working practice, your safety and my liability means job needs doing right 😉

I have had 4 customers with issues on speed rating, hence why I advised contacting insurer before buying . Main issue is insurers clueless to technicality of it . I can understand T being more debatable but H seems more than fine for UK road use as never going exceed 130mph lol and load rating far more critical aspect . I would also ask your insurers if they happy for you to be doing over 130mph on UK public roads if they want you have V rating Most important factors is tyre match to your regional conditions and quality and load rating and your nokians better than OEM tyres by a long shot . Reality is they more than suitable winter and summer use . Do need be careful as having insurance invalidated after an accident has potential for wiping you clean financially . First case I heard of was this scenario and legal costs went over 70 grand over several years . Your best bet is keep working with your current insurer and get it in writing underwriter accepts it .. You just going need ring a few companies and see how they respond . Is a ridiculous scenario and mainly derived from ignorance from insurers on what good tyre choices and wanting easy escape clauses . You always best telling them as you buying car insurance that you can't use in a more serious accident scenario by overlooking it . Ignoring the issue doesn't fix the issue and insurance companies need a massive kick in the bo11ocks; over this one .. Churchill accepted one of my customers on all season same scenario as you . I'm on traders policy and only got one company cover modifications and grey import cars .

Yeh they use quality aramid cord and quality rubbers . weatherproof Is a particularly nice tire and complete value for money ... Is a great tyre for british weather and proper B-road AWD . I do know some insurers can be awkard on the tyre speed rating not matching factory spec . H more than suitable but if want belt and braces it always best communicate these details before a claim situation . I know of more than 1 case where insururers refused pay out due to tyre speed rating not to oem tyre criteria . Keep enjoying the Fozzy, best wishes ...

Not many issues have on that model . If you not lifting both sides of rear to do work you would need unbolt a rear anti roll bar drop link at one fixing point for hub and lateral link move freely . My top tip is remiove rear anti rool bar at one of fixing nut points on one side anyway as the extra movement make pulling and fitting strut back under arch tub and get the pinch bolts aligned far easier/quicker but if all the drop link nuts rusted mess you rather avoid you can skip that if both sides of rear off the ground while doing the work . I would suggest spraying drop link bolt and the 2 big strut mounting pinch bolts and the C-clip for the brake hose with some wd40 day or 2 in advance of doing the job . You can get to the top mount 3 12mm nuts via the plastic trim on top of the strut tub in the the boot, plastic pry tool with care will release the plastic prongs retaining it . You will need a spring compressor to compress old unit and remove top hat and strut spring lower rubber insulator and bump stop and protective boot if reusing it . the bump stops are usually split and mashed on failed sls struts as been bottoming out and the £20 kyb protection kit has these parts for 2 struts . you need the spring compressor compress new spring onto new strut too, lot of reports this amazingly dangerous, no it isn't lol, just position clamps with bit of thought and only compress spring down just enough get the oem 17mm nut caught a few threads on the strut rod . I have impact gun so removing the nut and tightening nut on strut is never any bother, you may have some issues stopping strut rod rotating while loosening or tightening, on old strut you can use grips hold shaft, on new one you don't want damage the chrome rod, you can grind 2 flats on the top sides of a old socket so can use a wrench/adjustable wrench turn the socket and have access to the strut allen key socket through the socket drive hole or you may find a german style offset ring wrench fits down into recess of strut top mount onto the bolt (you understand this more when doing job) This strut nut is 17mm external size (japan fixing DIN), the new ones supplied with new strut be 19mm so reuse originals as 17mm gives easier tool access and the quality is 2 grades better . If you don't have a spring compressor you can get them on ebay for £10 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KATSU-2PCS-Car-Coil-Spring-Compressor-Screws-370mm/273995484093 Springs only go one way round (has a top and bottom which hard get wrong 🙂 ) and try orientate them so sit in old rubber seating points neatly Top mount has inner outer orientation so be sure fit these right, put a dab of paint/marker pen on top end of outer stud prior removal if you feel better doing so, All becomes clear when you start doing the job and I may well be telling you how suck an egg as it pretty easy task once get stuck in, if you got half decent tools it be walk in the park as nothing technical or overly challenging . other recommended procedure is measure rear ride height before and after work and consider wheel alignment check. 430mm to 455mm about normal, generally higher side of measure for brand new just fitted and low level of fuel and no other weight in car

^ exactly this don't think i ever done a outback or forester rear wiper motor but that wiring takes a right beating if boot used a lot and we done lot of repairs to that issue over the years ...

^ Because I thinking of your wallet and getting you best prices Currently can use the 15% ebaay coupon POLAR15 works with car parts in motion so that make shocks dirt cheap and springs about same as other cheaper option. (coupon ends 31st, you be mad not make most of this by adding all items to basket and using the code) If do use carpartinmotion DO NOT supply them with vehicle reg or chassis number as they probably (99% likely) cancel order as your SLS model obviously not match to non SLS and they then assume wrongly it wrong parts . I actually stock parts via them at times using ebay coupons as it really is that dirt cheap, cheaper than best trade price I can get locally . KYB springs and shocks about best after market option you got and at these prices it almost free . Handling stability in corners and smoothness to rear is massive improvement over faulty sagging rear struts . Is a massive safety upgrade but amazingly if you sagging original sls struts not leaking oil they still pass a uk MOT 😕 labour time between 1 to 2hrs . I normally fit these at fixed all in price and base on 1.5hrs

What brand pump part number ? How close is specifics of current fault with new pumps vs the original one ? Sat stationary f you rev engine to around 2.5-3K does steering get lighter, if does check pump pressure high side at idle . We had 3 bad pumps in a row via our autofactors to point pump manufacturers and factors staff assuming I at fault, wasted hours of my time and had parts factor manager at my shop for almost 2 hours showing him pressure difference of the new aftermarket junk vs real oem . Get someone who knows how actually do some test not and at very least test pump pressure and flow . Power steering parts is a ballache aftermarket much like aircon pumps too lol .

Don't rule out the new pump, is it oem new/used or reman unit . Reman or used pumps a tricky game Is the fault like before or very different, you going need deal with your current mechanic on this one and ask him how sure he was on original pump being bad or was he just throwing expensive parts at you expense for guess work . Also tell him just because it a new/different pump not assume it a good pump lol . Amount of reman pumps we had faulty out the box is ridiculous to the point we barely use that route unless options/cost force our hand and it either 100% new or known good low mileage used we source ourselves

Based on your part numbers KYB rear left 334344 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Left-02-to-05-Damper/232563218743 KYB rear right 334345 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-Handed-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Right-02-to-05/232342269886 KYB rear springs RA6028 (pair) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Kayaba-RA6028-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Springs-New/333277412361 You get 5% off buying the pair of struts so that about $95 The springs are £73 the pair So that £168 all in You probably need bump stops and rubber boots but KYB do that as a axle set for under £20 (KYB 910046) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Dust-Cover-Kit-fits-SUBARU-IMPREZA-GGA-2-0-Rear-00-to-05-EJ205/233310065438 I been working on Subarus over 20yrs and we fit a lot of these KYB excel G shocks and springs and quality/fit/performance is perfect . Cost great too, they cheaper online than via my local motorfactors on trade account . We use partsinmotion a lot as have offices in Exeter so some locality to us .

KYB japan excel G and matching KYB springs (can get custom springs via springcoil.co.uk for special requirements. Struts are £50 each , and pair of springs £80-90 when use non SLS struts you MUST use non SLS spring or ride height still be low as spring rates differ between SLS and non SLS If want KYB part numbers/links give me year of forester/image of vehicle . Parts are cheap and fitting very simple .

yeah front always cleaner as engine heat keeps it more dry . More you do better methods you get on dealing with it, backs can get so bad very hard deal with at home with minimal tool options . Best thing can do is spray all bolts/joints with a spray can of waxoyl or similar as makes night and day difference to corrosion level and lubes the threads .

Doesn't take long, either use hydraulic press or bush forcing screw tool set . With bush forcing screw tool set and air hammer we can do some bush replacement without removing suspension arms fully thus saving time and parts needed . If can't get them out in one, push rubber out first, then cut wall of metal sleeve with air hacksaw or recip sawsaw and tap it out, decent air hammer super useful here . It takes me about 2hrs max remove rebuild and fit front pair lower arms, cheapest option is the pattern arms around £66 and just bolt on but quality not good enough for my liking on cheaper whole arms want use that route . It a must for safety, end result drive feel and long life thus better long term value use better quality only for suspension repair . Those horizontal mounted rear bushes don't last long, awful design when used on rovers decades ago and euro trash used it too, older design subaru front arms rear bush way better but not as cheap make 😕 too many accountants and not enough engineers in modern manufacture 😞

Heres some part numbers (use numbers and google and you find online and alternative brands via likes of autodoc.co.uk or even eBay Bushes front control arm front bush: Febest SAB-018 rear bush: Febest SAB-017 or Febi Bilstein 42787 ball joint: 555 japan SB-6642 Both bushes and a ball joint cost under £50 per arm for decent branded (555 BJ's top quality) control arms complete (would not recomend aftermarket arms unless corrosion or accident damage and don't want pay oem price) front right: Spidan 58191 front left: Spidan 58190