Mr B

just read the VIN number on the build plate in engine bay and you will see what it is . It either some water via roof bar fixings or condensation , we seen some pretty bad condensation in recent months . put a dehumidifier in it to dry it out. sometimes can actually be leaking say doors or bulkhead/screen and condensation takes it to the roof lining .

It could be, visual inspection of coil packs for swelling cracks, burn marks etc is worth doing , lots of other things to suspect as well so if no clues you may be wise get a professional do a visual inspection & test drive and look over live data while reproducing the fault .

things to look out for are sagging rear ends from failing sls struts and rear end corrosion . Still can have lot of life at 130K but you need be checking repair history and car thoroughly conclude it sensible buy . 105 to 115K nice range, very low mileage not as desirable as people would think, lot of good auto models around if willing travel a bit and not rush purchase. Main thing is learn the car and get idea of good/bad and car characteristics by viewing several, if you not a mechanic and got no proper knowledge with this model you not going know much from vieing 1 or 2, 5 to 10 and you learnt a lot and start getting idea of values, functioning condition and general faults . you got better chance finding nice tidy auto over manual which lot are used/abused proper hard by at least one owner . for suspension something like 30mm lift blocks and say 215/75/15 tyres such as toyo open country A/T give you close to 3" gain overall, beyond that more expense and problems and you upsetting on road ability . If not doing lot of off-road being sensible with tyre choice important or using second set of rims for more dedicated off-road tyres is way to go . Skid pan is a must as sump super vulnerable ... Don't be too concerned on cambelts as they easy do and fairly cheap even for oem parts .

Most modern cars tend be this way . partly due to neater styling/symmetry but also partly cost as obviously slightly cheaper . I must say if do a lot of reversing in the dark then 2 reverse lights is a god send vs one . Like I say many time old is gold, lot of practical common sense and durability is lost the more new you go unfortunately .

adjust drive belt tension and test .

Crank failure very common and 2009 even more so . Was it a down shift wrong gear change that finished it off . Engine replacement will be expensive and same underlying weakness to crank will be present . You would need an early 2011 engine for slight revisions in crank & block or buy new crank which about £450 if your engine likely rebuildable . Diesel Subarus are all heading to early scrap as simply expensive repair and design fault still present plus diesels of this era suffer from lot of CEL warnings and less than amazing mpg figures all down to stupid principles of emission regulations and control equipment that actually causing more emissions and waste if view the whole picture .

It depends if rust concentrated in same area on ease and cost . I assume due to MOT comments it the seatbelt anchor plate that in the lower arch sill end closure area, if most the rust in this area it would take less time than say if also need strut turret repairs or front sill work . Main labour consuming issue with sill end closures and inner sill area is trailing link body mount as that area fiddly repair well and bit more time strip and assemble brake cables,abs sensors and trailing links and body mount can be pain remove . I wouldn't worry about rusted bolts too much, bolts are high quality and it surprising how many bolts come out looking almost new besides exposed parts and they all be replaced with new for little cost. Main thing is fully inspect other areas to see no other likely big bill corrosion issues on horizon . You likely see 4 to 8 years out of a good repair effort pending exact state dealing with and budget to play with . Rear end corrosion MOT failures taking lot of the late 90's and early millennium subarus as most don't want spend on repair, we had a amazingly clean green forester sf late registered on a 52 plate that failed on subframe and sill end closures/inner lower arch. Was a £800 bill put that right but rust was mainly in those areas so easy remove 98% of it and subframe easy nut and bolt job plus you get most or all rear bushes replaced in the process . Car does need be bit exceptional make it worth effort for welding work but see a few get scrapped for simple subframes and suspension arms which a shame . Hope you work something out ... be careful as while good work is expensive the cost of bad work or bad decisions is even more so .

Because so many people want one . crank failure on these is massive problem, I could fill my yard with dead 2008 to 2011 subaru diesels just in my county . New crank is 450 roughly but how cheap that works out depends on block halves and any damage to bore and valves . Really is awkward position be in, we can pick up proper tidy diesel engine failure cars for £300 but cost of repair high and actual market value real low plus other issues with diesel dpf and fuelling software means they never perfect for long . Lots of scrap, great for the environment lol, my 2 decade plus old foresters still going strong and one heading to 300K . Modern manufacturing and stupid emission regulations are the real culprits to current environmental issues as they simply half truths for the masses to part them from money and accept lower lifespan products under belief it better !

Loads of exhaust fabricators around wales, 2 that spring to mind are pro-speed exhausts and cardiff exhausts who a longlife bespoke exhaust builders . Your system is twin rear boxes and Y pipe which more work and if box gone in centre pipe which doubt it has but if has will add cost . I would estimate 400 to £550 all in sensible price pending how much centre pipe needs replacing (normally it just flanges on Y to back boxes that gone and if that case then centre silencer and suitable length of that pipe can remain keeping price very sensible . You can choose sound level and tailpipe finish and fitment can be perfect . We use a local powerflow exhaust shop for most turbo, 2.5 and 3.0 as price to quality it unbeatable, really not that hard build an exhaust and generally done pretty quick ...

what engine model ? there might be other choices and lower cost but exact model details are needed ... One obvious option is custom exhaust from a local powerflow or similar exhaust fabricating centre which be cheaper than just your parts price and it be durable stainless system .

I shouldn't really tell you this as it trade secrets 🙂 Drivers and passengers window an easy fix and common failure due to water ingress in front motor due to clocked housing position caused by introduction of crash bars in the front doors, never buy a new motor as original crazy money and aftermarket useless junk, buy a used passenger side rear as they same front drivers side and rear drivers same as front passenger side besides a water drain fittings needs clocking position changed and original harness tails swapped over ideally but rear tails will work and worth using if connectors or harness better condition (plugs in to motor assembly in weather sealed connector so cab be swapped) they about £20-£30 for tidy rear ones and rears- 1: don't get used much and 2: don't get water ingress in motor like on front doors as motor sits upside down in passenger rear . You can improve motor drainage for front mounted motors by removing motor housing alloy cup (practise on an old motor first) and making 2 small weep holes (0ne towards front and one towards rear) and add couple drops lube in bearing points. Put plenty grease around drive gear . You can pull just motors off front doors by just removing the #3 philips screws, you will need very nice fitting 1/4" bits (don't want camming out) and a bit ratchet or 1/4" drive ratchet with a 1/4" socket to hold the bit which works nice as gives ratchet right amount standoff, working blind mainly but if you pick up used motors first you see fixing points that make it more obvious how proceed with job & can test fir your #3 bits for perfect fit and good bite plus will have spare screws probably better condition than your fronts . These should do the job > (late SF has same plastic moulded and stamped metal butyl sealed cover motors as SG, even earlier motors actually better made with cast alloy housing and pressed metal cover with screw point flange and proper rubber gasket) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-98-02-Passengers-Left-Rear-Window-Regulator-2-Pins/183892236473 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-98-02-Drivers-Right-Rear-Window-Regulator-2-Pins/183892237422

You could take a live from interior fusebox and add a fuse and feed that to radio and lighters. I would add a small push button switch with status light in centre console so you can isolate it and have visual reference when it on ....

Hopefully better subaru and dealer end result than the EE diesels, as a back street specialist garage we the ones working with owners past the warranty stage trying make the most of those engineering flaws and I don't look forward to similar with the hybrid system ...

The wake up and current draw on these models in parked sleep mode is well known by subaru internally . It well known to me too as we done 3 day current logging on 2 customers who had these new models with no resolution from dealers to date ... Owner doesn't need take online criticism as he having his own issues For sure he best speak to the service team due to warranty but doubt he get it fully resolved but hopeful something get done improve the issues some users get .

Unfortunately the parasitic drain on them is from module monitoring wake ups mainly that not faults in the raw term but system design issues. Issue was well known before lockdown but that highlighted it further . Most people have issue in 2 to 3 weeks and it was airport park overs that first brought issue into public forums .

thought of this thread this morning while in a local Subaru dealers picking up overnight order parts. The service desk was dealing with customer with same issue of dead battery, service stating it not used enough, owner said how can use it when left at airport or away for work , same scenario 2 weeks and it dead . Is a big Issue, not just Subaru (BMW worse) although they state about 2weeks no use manual charging in the handbook . Issue is mainly from modules waking up at intervals for checks such as handbrake state and so forth all causing unreasonable parasitic draw . Personally I see it as major engineering flaw for average real world usage scenario. Anything less than 6 to 8 weeks seems unreasonable to me . Having a starter battery on a solenoid controlled isolator controlled via alarm/key state could of been useful as could more effort in long term current draw or a long term park mode perhaps . 2 or even 3 weeks is unacceptable, even if not having no starts from flat battery the battery lifespan be awfully short from prolonged low charge state causing increased sulfation killing battery capacity and as such snowballing issue . All this charging batteries via mains, unnecessary driving to charge, unnecessary driving to dealers, short component life is not environmentally good by any means ! Sad illogical modern world unfortunately ...

your best bet is getting your money back and buying a super clean model from early 2000 . Is well documented issue on battery drain on these . Absolute nothing environmentally friendly or better in most new car concepts unfortunately . They have short lifespan, consume huge amount of parts and service materials causing lot of waste including your hard earned money . I'm a mechanical engineer with my own business and all my personal cars are 15 to 20 years old and trouble free and due to minimal part and service material and actual vehicle lifspan they more environmentally friendly based on a manufacture to recycle lifespan ...

for a non turbo daily run around basic ngk, denso or bosch be fine . I would review plug leads too as these when failing can give fishbite misfires and this damp cold weather ideal for spark tracking . air filter and maf sensor cleaning be other areas look at . Plugs and leads via ebay listed below. Cambaire leads great on the ej201 and 202, fit nice, lengths sensible and have protective sleeving lengths so if make a little effort they lay out perfect like originals . They also seem last quite well, haven't found anything better for 2 or 3 times the cost for non turbo models of this vintage . If you do super high miles and don't like servicing plugs often then better plugs worth considering but these will be fine for non turbo and lower mileage runaround and last well and super reliable . You could spend same money on 1 plug as the set of 4 but for lower mileage non turbo 17 year old run around you be wasting good money best spent else where . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HT-Leads-Ignition-Cables-Set-VE522141-Cambiare-22451AA720-22451AA730-22451AA800/333735078147 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-NGK-V-Power-Spark-Plugs-Kit-Genuine-Service-Part-2756/352081136862

It is a UK MOT checked item but they have be bad to extent allowing excess movement and/or visually dry rotted to death be a fail . fronts normally hold out better than rear by a long shot . Price on front bushes replaced on car without fully removing lower arm be 160 roughly for both sides . I would check first state of rear bush and ball joint and also how bad the front bush truly is as if serviceable condition it best left and changed at later date . your heat and road condition in Oz might be tough on bushes though and I also notice the 2009 onwards suspension don't hold out as well as the older stuff, pretty much half the lifespan in lot of cases !

Doubt it will work with the m30 alarm . try using programming method below . If no luck buy a used single button m30 fob or fob-key and remove key to make it a fob . Programming Remote Keys to the System: Remote keys can be added or removed to/from the system following the sequence below: i) Type in to the keypad ** ii) Type in to the keypad the “existing PIN code” then * iii) Type in to the keypad 91 * “ the number of keys to be used” # iv) Press the first remote key button until bleep sounds, release and press next key. Continue until all keys have been taught to the system. Note the maximum number of keys is 4 and all keys required to operate the system must be taught during this operation - any key not included will no longer operate the system If you don't know your 4 digit pin set a new one using method below: Resetting PIN code: If you do not have the current PIN, then follow option A. However if you do not have a working Radio Key, then you will have to use option B and obtain the systems PIN code from Subaru (UK). Your dealer can obtain this for you if you can provide proof of ownership and the alarm systems 16-digit serial number. A.Using a working Radio Key: - Arm and then Disarm the system using a working Radio Key. - Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- *17856*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where wxyz is your new PIN code) - Arm the system with the Radio Key - You should now be able to disarm the system using the new PIN code Full M30 alarm manual link > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

Be careful with aftermarket arms as quality drop over original. Generally it the rear bush on these as crap design with bushing laid flat and don't last , earlier was far better design and fluid filled rear bush very effective . We can replace this on car with partial dismantling, if arms scruffy and all bushes and ball joint iffy you far wiser replacing, we generally only use OEM and they about 3 times the cost but 6 times the quality . Anything aftermarket and suspension related do some homework as even well known aftermarket brands supply some right junk parts these days

you got reflect on AWD design and lsd design and likelihood of anything being changed from standard oem design before drawing final conclusions what should be happening especially if using it to diagnose a possible fault . with viscous centre dif some drive can be seen transferred to other axle via hand rotation, with a system using electrical duty cycled hydraulic clutch packs (like on the auto gearbox AWD) it can be open , Got be careful with axle diffs too as torsen/helical lsd diff with wheels of ground doesn't work like a plated lsd would .

good .

Car battery failing or parasitic draw can sound alarm, we come across this quite frequent this time of year with zero or below cold snaps being final straw to cause owners do something about it . remember doing one on a forester last year boxing day, battery was spanked and they persisted with alarm issues and odd no start until it total no start and dash display locked in safe mode due to irregular voltage values . The rechargeable battery in the siren housing failing can cause alarm sound too, this can be replaced but you need know how do this as first attempt you likely ruin the siren assembly .

The sirens have a rechargeable battery built in so disconnecting them not always viable option .