Mr B

It is a UK MOT checked item but they have be bad to extent allowing excess movement and/or visually dry rotted to death be a fail . fronts normally hold out better than rear by a long shot . Price on front bushes replaced on car without fully removing lower arm be 160 roughly for both sides . I would check first state of rear bush and ball joint and also how bad the front bush truly is as if serviceable condition it best left and changed at later date . your heat and road condition in Oz might be tough on bushes though and I also notice the 2009 onwards suspension don't hold out as well as the older stuff, pretty much half the lifespan in lot of cases !

Doubt it will work with the m30 alarm . try using programming method below . If no luck buy a used single button m30 fob or fob-key and remove key to make it a fob . Programming Remote Keys to the System: Remote keys can be added or removed to/from the system following the sequence below: i) Type in to the keypad ** ii) Type in to the keypad the “existing PIN code” then * iii) Type in to the keypad 91 * “ the number of keys to be used” # iv) Press the first remote key button until bleep sounds, release and press next key. Continue until all keys have been taught to the system. Note the maximum number of keys is 4 and all keys required to operate the system must be taught during this operation - any key not included will no longer operate the system If you don't know your 4 digit pin set a new one using method below: Resetting PIN code: If you do not have the current PIN, then follow option A. However if you do not have a working Radio Key, then you will have to use option B and obtain the systems PIN code from Subaru (UK). Your dealer can obtain this for you if you can provide proof of ownership and the alarm systems 16-digit serial number. A.Using a working Radio Key: - Arm and then Disarm the system using a working Radio Key. - Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- *17856*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where wxyz is your new PIN code) - Arm the system with the Radio Key - You should now be able to disarm the system using the new PIN code Full M30 alarm manual link > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

Be careful with aftermarket arms as quality drop over original. Generally it the rear bush on these as crap design with bushing laid flat and don't last , earlier was far better design and fluid filled rear bush very effective . We can replace this on car with partial dismantling, if arms scruffy and all bushes and ball joint iffy you far wiser replacing, we generally only use OEM and they about 3 times the cost but 6 times the quality . Anything aftermarket and suspension related do some homework as even well known aftermarket brands supply some right junk parts these days

you got reflect on AWD design and lsd design and likelihood of anything being changed from standard oem design before drawing final conclusions what should be happening especially if using it to diagnose a possible fault . with viscous centre dif some drive can be seen transferred to other axle via hand rotation, with a system using electrical duty cycled hydraulic clutch packs (like on the auto gearbox AWD) it can be open , Got be careful with axle diffs too as torsen/helical lsd diff with wheels of ground doesn't work like a plated lsd would .

good .

Car battery failing or parasitic draw can sound alarm, we come across this quite frequent this time of year with zero or below cold snaps being final straw to cause owners do something about it . remember doing one on a forester last year boxing day, battery was spanked and they persisted with alarm issues and odd no start until it total no start and dash display locked in safe mode due to irregular voltage values . The rechargeable battery in the siren housing failing can cause alarm sound too, this can be replaced but you need know how do this as first attempt you likely ruin the siren assembly .

The sirens have a rechargeable battery built in so disconnecting them not always viable option .

the diesel best avoided as absolute no benefit unless super high anual mileage and even then it maybe hassle thus no saving . Most modern diesels same issue, the emission law and principle of dpf is complete flawed stupidity that produces engine not fit for purpose and has to burn a lot more diesel and use huge amount additional servicing materials thus a huge amount of waste . Quite simply old is gold, absolute nothing better with modern vehicles. Buying a top condition older outback 3.0 could land you easy live with large AWD extate that bullet proof and bit of fun and not that expensive long term as reliable durable and basic parts pretty cheap , could also be 30 to 50% cheaper initial purchase giving more funds for quality servicing and and minor work/parts make vehicle A1 .

wouldn't expect them be perfect at over 300K but it too early days get idea full potential and with most diesels dead from dpf constant expense or crank failure not many done super high miles to judge rest of systems . It engine out to remove/refit injectors .

https://www.strongflex.eu/en/245-subaru-forester-sf-97-02

never had much issue with ICP, however we only use them for mainly OEM parts, most of their aftermarket range is average garbage at best such as optimal and other chinese monkey metal trading under german brand image . I always telephone order so generally know stock/availability times before committing .

classic impreza or even later forester SG can be used . ICP likely be able supply them Was a company in poland selling new on ebay so keep eye out for that . price new is around low 300 to 400 pounds I was going link one on ebay, maybe worth asking questions on details of corosion level, if prepared blast/wire wheel it and treat/paint it price would be decent saving over new . Can be quite a struggle swap them out without good tools like air impact, air hammer and air blade saw and bushing cups and forcing screws, need new lateral link bolts/bushes at the least . We done a few and most put up bit of a fight, most ones we done need brake lines and trailing links done make it a worthwhile effort .

it a drive accessory ! , check/inspect alternator, power steering aircon (remove drive belts to test) if that all okay move on and check/inspect timing belt ...

does it unlock doors or not ? and what the hazard flash count when does it ?

swedish company kilen make these pattern part match to subaru 20380FG110/20380FG111 kilen part number is 63345 , they about 80 to £90 a pair and good quality .

that a well known issue and done a few threads on here covering it .

you can but easiest solution is something like this . use a bit of pu40 adhesive on the joint lap pipe faces and you done for £15 inc tube of sealant . do the flange properly be more expensive as need gasket and proper spring tension bolts(yours didn't have them and that helped it fail as joint too rigid) The 2 slip joints on the joiner will allow some flex/movement thus will last well . I done plenty of these, on the cats where flange tight to cat we used repair flanges, it ups cost as normally cat flange needs replacing as well (weld new flange plate on) and you got add cost of proper hardware and gaktet . I've had the slip joiners in use over 5yrs on regular customer cars and no issues, size around 50 to 55mm fit a lot of models but check both sides with caliper or string or 2 bits of baton screwed to another piece of timber make a caliper you can set then measure caliper gap with ruler . and search ebay for exhaust pipe connect and your size, you want longer one like pic so can loose flanges and reduced bad pipe section .

we done one for MOT work early last year. Sourced 2 front wings pattern part, not cheap, was £150 for what was £45 wings back in the day . We got them from panel specialist online . Really worth good search on google and ebay . Need complete exhaust which we got off ebay for next to nothing and decent enought fit and pretty decent ali coated steel . luckily rest of panels good and it just rear turrets and sill ends which easy fabricated for repair as not finish panels . What we had contemplated was cutting & patching front wings from later model wing or other close arch shape wing that chopped and tweaked to replicate mk1 shape, this can work well at very low part/material cost but very time consuming to be done to desired finish quality .

to be fair the sigma pretty good alarms, we don't see massive amount of issues (most issues are buggered fobs and people not knowing pin code) and most of the systems like 14 to 21 years old . Plus side is they well understood by most in trade who worth paying and easily bypassed removed or repaired at pretty low cost with used system parts . If you want more help upload a photo of alarm fob front and back and give details on exactly what happening - turn signal flash count, doors unlock but instantly relock ect ...

yes without travelling up to around 160 miles you limit your choice massively, very rare find exactly what you want in condition you desire on your doorstep ..

Yes expensive. If close maybe worth looking just gain knowledge and judge cars actual condition. For that price it have be immaculate and have lot of recent investment such as quality tyres quality oem parts and servicing to high standard . particularly mint older cars are worth paying extra as you get your money back many times over generally but you got have limits. I picked up really nice hard fault outback 3.0 under 100K pretty much new set of £400 tyres and well serviced for 3K, I could find cheaper but not better and for extra few hundred you getting real clean quality car that joy to own and little expense for many years if keep on top of basic servicing care . It very hard judge a cars value until you see it in person and more you view better you get at judging good from bad and learning issues ...

The U frame is for EU crash safety, while removing it can be answer from MOT perspective it can be a massive legal problem in an insurance issue in a accident that involves vehicle inspectors . They easy enough find used or buy new. If removing it soak bolts multiple times with penetrating fluid for week or 2 in advance . I assume emissions test values failed and suspects cat efficiency ! He can't fail a cat if emissions values fine just because he has assumptions on cat function ability . For corrosion testing they have a test tool which looks like a flat blade screwdriver with a small hard plastic hammer head with a flat end and round end for tapping suspect areas, the screw driver end is for scraping or prying only. They also should not be excessively stabbing holes all over the place, you only meant make holes as last resort in concluding how bad it is . Some MOT guys can make a right mess chasing down rust, you want find a better place for MOTs and keep using them as poor MOT quality is a annual nightmare, frustration and cost that best avoided .

No but if you got debris in the system from the first failure replacements have short life. It a right struggle clean them proper when have metal fragment within the system without lot of system part replacement service exchange units can be hit and miss as any reman parts tend be awful QC these days, we don't touch them, prefer fussy selection of genuine untouched used and ideally 100% new when viable cost .

bore and ringland for sure, 3 years of miss firing and fuel washing cylinder is not a good thing . cat and o2 sensors likely taken some damage and engine in general could be poor state from petrol dilution of the oil . Head cam journals tend get ruined from this . Sat idle on a drive for 2 years in UK weather will also add issues in getting it up to usable/mot passed spec . They not worth a lot even in good order really ...

I'm disappointed to here it a scam and the russian involvement, who would of ever thought ! , was really looking forward to it and in a subaru too .... 😕 Oh well back to spannering with my pants on 😞