Mr B

Loads of exhaust fabricators around wales, 2 that spring to mind are pro-speed exhausts and cardiff exhausts who a longlife bespoke exhaust builders . Your system is twin rear boxes and Y pipe which more work and if box gone in centre pipe which doubt it has but if has will add cost . I would estimate 400 to £550 all in sensible price pending how much centre pipe needs replacing (normally it just flanges on Y to back boxes that gone and if that case then centre silencer and suitable length of that pipe can remain keeping price very sensible . You can choose sound level and tailpipe finish and fitment can be perfect . We use a local powerflow exhaust shop for most turbo, 2.5 and 3.0 as price to quality it unbeatable, really not that hard build an exhaust and generally done pretty quick ...

what engine model ? there might be other choices and lower cost but exact model details are needed ... One obvious option is custom exhaust from a local powerflow or similar exhaust fabricating centre which be cheaper than just your parts price and it be durable stainless system .

I shouldn't really tell you this as it trade secrets 🙂 Drivers and passengers window an easy fix and common failure due to water ingress in front motor due to clocked housing position caused by introduction of crash bars in the front doors, never buy a new motor as original crazy money and aftermarket useless junk, buy a used passenger side rear as they same front drivers side and rear drivers same as front passenger side besides a water drain fittings needs clocking position changed and original harness tails swapped over ideally but rear tails will work and worth using if connectors or harness better condition (plugs in to motor assembly in weather sealed connector so cab be swapped) they about £20-£30 for tidy rear ones and rears- 1: don't get used much and 2: don't get water ingress in motor like on front doors as motor sits upside down in passenger rear . You can improve motor drainage for front mounted motors by removing motor housing alloy cup (practise on an old motor first) and making 2 small weep holes (0ne towards front and one towards rear) and add couple drops lube in bearing points. Put plenty grease around drive gear . You can pull just motors off front doors by just removing the #3 philips screws, you will need very nice fitting 1/4" bits (don't want camming out) and a bit ratchet or 1/4" drive ratchet with a 1/4" socket to hold the bit which works nice as gives ratchet right amount standoff, working blind mainly but if you pick up used motors first you see fixing points that make it more obvious how proceed with job & can test fir your #3 bits for perfect fit and good bite plus will have spare screws probably better condition than your fronts . These should do the job > (late SF has same plastic moulded and stamped metal butyl sealed cover motors as SG, even earlier motors actually better made with cast alloy housing and pressed metal cover with screw point flange and proper rubber gasket) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-98-02-Passengers-Left-Rear-Window-Regulator-2-Pins/183892236473 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-SF-98-02-Drivers-Right-Rear-Window-Regulator-2-Pins/183892237422

You could take a live from interior fusebox and add a fuse and feed that to radio and lighters. I would add a small push button switch with status light in centre console so you can isolate it and have visual reference when it on ....

Hopefully better subaru and dealer end result than the EE diesels, as a back street specialist garage we the ones working with owners past the warranty stage trying make the most of those engineering flaws and I don't look forward to similar with the hybrid system ...

The wake up and current draw on these models in parked sleep mode is well known by subaru internally . It well known to me too as we done 3 day current logging on 2 customers who had these new models with no resolution from dealers to date ... Owner doesn't need take online criticism as he having his own issues For sure he best speak to the service team due to warranty but doubt he get it fully resolved but hopeful something get done improve the issues some users get .

Unfortunately the parasitic drain on them is from module monitoring wake ups mainly that not faults in the raw term but system design issues. Issue was well known before lockdown but that highlighted it further . Most people have issue in 2 to 3 weeks and it was airport park overs that first brought issue into public forums .

thought of this thread this morning while in a local Subaru dealers picking up overnight order parts. The service desk was dealing with customer with same issue of dead battery, service stating it not used enough, owner said how can use it when left at airport or away for work , same scenario 2 weeks and it dead . Is a big Issue, not just Subaru (BMW worse) although they state about 2weeks no use manual charging in the handbook . Issue is mainly from modules waking up at intervals for checks such as handbrake state and so forth all causing unreasonable parasitic draw . Personally I see it as major engineering flaw for average real world usage scenario. Anything less than 6 to 8 weeks seems unreasonable to me . Having a starter battery on a solenoid controlled isolator controlled via alarm/key state could of been useful as could more effort in long term current draw or a long term park mode perhaps . 2 or even 3 weeks is unacceptable, even if not having no starts from flat battery the battery lifespan be awfully short from prolonged low charge state causing increased sulfation killing battery capacity and as such snowballing issue . All this charging batteries via mains, unnecessary driving to charge, unnecessary driving to dealers, short component life is not environmentally good by any means ! Sad illogical modern world unfortunately ...

your best bet is getting your money back and buying a super clean model from early 2000 . Is well documented issue on battery drain on these . Absolute nothing environmentally friendly or better in most new car concepts unfortunately . They have short lifespan, consume huge amount of parts and service materials causing lot of waste including your hard earned money . I'm a mechanical engineer with my own business and all my personal cars are 15 to 20 years old and trouble free and due to minimal part and service material and actual vehicle lifspan they more environmentally friendly based on a manufacture to recycle lifespan ...

for a non turbo daily run around basic ngk, denso or bosch be fine . I would review plug leads too as these when failing can give fishbite misfires and this damp cold weather ideal for spark tracking . air filter and maf sensor cleaning be other areas look at . Plugs and leads via ebay listed below. Cambaire leads great on the ej201 and 202, fit nice, lengths sensible and have protective sleeving lengths so if make a little effort they lay out perfect like originals . They also seem last quite well, haven't found anything better for 2 or 3 times the cost for non turbo models of this vintage . If you do super high miles and don't like servicing plugs often then better plugs worth considering but these will be fine for non turbo and lower mileage runaround and last well and super reliable . You could spend same money on 1 plug as the set of 4 but for lower mileage non turbo 17 year old run around you be wasting good money best spent else where . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HT-Leads-Ignition-Cables-Set-VE522141-Cambiare-22451AA720-22451AA730-22451AA800/333735078147 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-NGK-V-Power-Spark-Plugs-Kit-Genuine-Service-Part-2756/352081136862

It is a UK MOT checked item but they have be bad to extent allowing excess movement and/or visually dry rotted to death be a fail . fronts normally hold out better than rear by a long shot . Price on front bushes replaced on car without fully removing lower arm be 160 roughly for both sides . I would check first state of rear bush and ball joint and also how bad the front bush truly is as if serviceable condition it best left and changed at later date . your heat and road condition in Oz might be tough on bushes though and I also notice the 2009 onwards suspension don't hold out as well as the older stuff, pretty much half the lifespan in lot of cases !

Doubt it will work with the m30 alarm . try using programming method below . If no luck buy a used single button m30 fob or fob-key and remove key to make it a fob . Programming Remote Keys to the System: Remote keys can be added or removed to/from the system following the sequence below: i) Type in to the keypad ** ii) Type in to the keypad the “existing PIN code” then * iii) Type in to the keypad 91 * “ the number of keys to be used” # iv) Press the first remote key button until bleep sounds, release and press next key. Continue until all keys have been taught to the system. Note the maximum number of keys is 4 and all keys required to operate the system must be taught during this operation - any key not included will no longer operate the system If you don't know your 4 digit pin set a new one using method below: Resetting PIN code: If you do not have the current PIN, then follow option A. However if you do not have a working Radio Key, then you will have to use option B and obtain the systems PIN code from Subaru (UK). Your dealer can obtain this for you if you can provide proof of ownership and the alarm systems 16-digit serial number. A.Using a working Radio Key: - Arm and then Disarm the system using a working Radio Key. - Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- *17856*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where wxyz is your new PIN code) - Arm the system with the Radio Key - You should now be able to disarm the system using the new PIN code Full M30 alarm manual link > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

Be careful with aftermarket arms as quality drop over original. Generally it the rear bush on these as crap design with bushing laid flat and don't last , earlier was far better design and fluid filled rear bush very effective . We can replace this on car with partial dismantling, if arms scruffy and all bushes and ball joint iffy you far wiser replacing, we generally only use OEM and they about 3 times the cost but 6 times the quality . Anything aftermarket and suspension related do some homework as even well known aftermarket brands supply some right junk parts these days

you got reflect on AWD design and lsd design and likelihood of anything being changed from standard oem design before drawing final conclusions what should be happening especially if using it to diagnose a possible fault . with viscous centre dif some drive can be seen transferred to other axle via hand rotation, with a system using electrical duty cycled hydraulic clutch packs (like on the auto gearbox AWD) it can be open , Got be careful with axle diffs too as torsen/helical lsd diff with wheels of ground doesn't work like a plated lsd would .

good .

Car battery failing or parasitic draw can sound alarm, we come across this quite frequent this time of year with zero or below cold snaps being final straw to cause owners do something about it . remember doing one on a forester last year boxing day, battery was spanked and they persisted with alarm issues and odd no start until it total no start and dash display locked in safe mode due to irregular voltage values . The rechargeable battery in the siren housing failing can cause alarm sound too, this can be replaced but you need know how do this as first attempt you likely ruin the siren assembly .

The sirens have a rechargeable battery built in so disconnecting them not always viable option .

the diesel best avoided as absolute no benefit unless super high anual mileage and even then it maybe hassle thus no saving . Most modern diesels same issue, the emission law and principle of dpf is complete flawed stupidity that produces engine not fit for purpose and has to burn a lot more diesel and use huge amount additional servicing materials thus a huge amount of waste . Quite simply old is gold, absolute nothing better with modern vehicles. Buying a top condition older outback 3.0 could land you easy live with large AWD extate that bullet proof and bit of fun and not that expensive long term as reliable durable and basic parts pretty cheap , could also be 30 to 50% cheaper initial purchase giving more funds for quality servicing and and minor work/parts make vehicle A1 .

wouldn't expect them be perfect at over 300K but it too early days get idea full potential and with most diesels dead from dpf constant expense or crank failure not many done super high miles to judge rest of systems . It engine out to remove/refit injectors .

https://www.strongflex.eu/en/245-subaru-forester-sf-97-02

never had much issue with ICP, however we only use them for mainly OEM parts, most of their aftermarket range is average garbage at best such as optimal and other chinese monkey metal trading under german brand image . I always telephone order so generally know stock/availability times before committing .

classic impreza or even later forester SG can be used . ICP likely be able supply them Was a company in poland selling new on ebay so keep eye out for that . price new is around low 300 to 400 pounds I was going link one on ebay, maybe worth asking questions on details of corosion level, if prepared blast/wire wheel it and treat/paint it price would be decent saving over new . Can be quite a struggle swap them out without good tools like air impact, air hammer and air blade saw and bushing cups and forcing screws, need new lateral link bolts/bushes at the least . We done a few and most put up bit of a fight, most ones we done need brake lines and trailing links done make it a worthwhile effort .

it a drive accessory ! , check/inspect alternator, power steering aircon (remove drive belts to test) if that all okay move on and check/inspect timing belt ...

does it unlock doors or not ? and what the hazard flash count when does it ?

swedish company kilen make these pattern part match to subaru 20380FG110/20380FG111 kilen part number is 63345 , they about 80 to £90 a pair and good quality .