Mr B

Not many issues have on that model . If you not lifting both sides of rear to do work you would need unbolt a rear anti roll bar drop link at one fixing point for hub and lateral link move freely . My top tip is remiove rear anti rool bar at one of fixing nut points on one side anyway as the extra movement make pulling and fitting strut back under arch tub and get the pinch bolts aligned far easier/quicker but if all the drop link nuts rusted mess you rather avoid you can skip that if both sides of rear off the ground while doing the work . I would suggest spraying drop link bolt and the 2 big strut mounting pinch bolts and the C-clip for the brake hose with some wd40 day or 2 in advance of doing the job . You can get to the top mount 3 12mm nuts via the plastic trim on top of the strut tub in the the boot, plastic pry tool with care will release the plastic prongs retaining it . You will need a spring compressor to compress old unit and remove top hat and strut spring lower rubber insulator and bump stop and protective boot if reusing it . the bump stops are usually split and mashed on failed sls struts as been bottoming out and the £20 kyb protection kit has these parts for 2 struts . you need the spring compressor compress new spring onto new strut too, lot of reports this amazingly dangerous, no it isn't lol, just position clamps with bit of thought and only compress spring down just enough get the oem 17mm nut caught a few threads on the strut rod . I have impact gun so removing the nut and tightening nut on strut is never any bother, you may have some issues stopping strut rod rotating while loosening or tightening, on old strut you can use grips hold shaft, on new one you don't want damage the chrome rod, you can grind 2 flats on the top sides of a old socket so can use a wrench/adjustable wrench turn the socket and have access to the strut allen key socket through the socket drive hole or you may find a german style offset ring wrench fits down into recess of strut top mount onto the bolt (you understand this more when doing job) This strut nut is 17mm external size (japan fixing DIN), the new ones supplied with new strut be 19mm so reuse originals as 17mm gives easier tool access and the quality is 2 grades better . If you don't have a spring compressor you can get them on ebay for £10 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KATSU-2PCS-Car-Coil-Spring-Compressor-Screws-370mm/273995484093 Springs only go one way round (has a top and bottom which hard get wrong 🙂 ) and try orientate them so sit in old rubber seating points neatly Top mount has inner outer orientation so be sure fit these right, put a dab of paint/marker pen on top end of outer stud prior removal if you feel better doing so, All becomes clear when you start doing the job and I may well be telling you how suck an egg as it pretty easy task once get stuck in, if you got half decent tools it be walk in the park as nothing technical or overly challenging . other recommended procedure is measure rear ride height before and after work and consider wheel alignment check. 430mm to 455mm about normal, generally higher side of measure for brand new just fitted and low level of fuel and no other weight in car

^ exactly this don't think i ever done a outback or forester rear wiper motor but that wiring takes a right beating if boot used a lot and we done lot of repairs to that issue over the years ...

^ Because I thinking of your wallet and getting you best prices Currently can use the 15% ebaay coupon POLAR15 works with car parts in motion so that make shocks dirt cheap and springs about same as other cheaper option. (coupon ends 31st, you be mad not make most of this by adding all items to basket and using the code) If do use carpartinmotion DO NOT supply them with vehicle reg or chassis number as they probably (99% likely) cancel order as your SLS model obviously not match to non SLS and they then assume wrongly it wrong parts . I actually stock parts via them at times using ebay coupons as it really is that dirt cheap, cheaper than best trade price I can get locally . KYB springs and shocks about best after market option you got and at these prices it almost free . Handling stability in corners and smoothness to rear is massive improvement over faulty sagging rear struts . Is a massive safety upgrade but amazingly if you sagging original sls struts not leaking oil they still pass a uk MOT 😕 labour time between 1 to 2hrs . I normally fit these at fixed all in price and base on 1.5hrs

What brand pump part number ? How close is specifics of current fault with new pumps vs the original one ? Sat stationary f you rev engine to around 2.5-3K does steering get lighter, if does check pump pressure high side at idle . We had 3 bad pumps in a row via our autofactors to point pump manufacturers and factors staff assuming I at fault, wasted hours of my time and had parts factor manager at my shop for almost 2 hours showing him pressure difference of the new aftermarket junk vs real oem . Get someone who knows how actually do some test not and at very least test pump pressure and flow . Power steering parts is a ballache aftermarket much like aircon pumps too lol .

Don't rule out the new pump, is it oem new/used or reman unit . Reman or used pumps a tricky game Is the fault like before or very different, you going need deal with your current mechanic on this one and ask him how sure he was on original pump being bad or was he just throwing expensive parts at you expense for guess work . Also tell him just because it a new/different pump not assume it a good pump lol . Amount of reman pumps we had faulty out the box is ridiculous to the point we barely use that route unless options/cost force our hand and it either 100% new or known good low mileage used we source ourselves

Based on your part numbers KYB rear left 334344 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Left-02-to-05-Damper/232563218743 KYB rear right 334345 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-Handed-fits-SUBARU-FORESTER-SG-2-0-Rear-Right-02-to-05/232342269886 KYB rear springs RA6028 (pair) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Kayaba-RA6028-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Springs-New/333277412361 You get 5% off buying the pair of struts so that about $95 The springs are £73 the pair So that £168 all in You probably need bump stops and rubber boots but KYB do that as a axle set for under £20 (KYB 910046) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Dust-Cover-Kit-fits-SUBARU-IMPREZA-GGA-2-0-Rear-00-to-05-EJ205/233310065438 I been working on Subarus over 20yrs and we fit a lot of these KYB excel G shocks and springs and quality/fit/performance is perfect . Cost great too, they cheaper online than via my local motorfactors on trade account . We use partsinmotion a lot as have offices in Exeter so some locality to us .

KYB japan excel G and matching KYB springs (can get custom springs via springcoil.co.uk for special requirements. Struts are £50 each , and pair of springs £80-90 when use non SLS struts you MUST use non SLS spring or ride height still be low as spring rates differ between SLS and non SLS If want KYB part numbers/links give me year of forester/image of vehicle . Parts are cheap and fitting very simple .

yeah front always cleaner as engine heat keeps it more dry . More you do better methods you get on dealing with it, backs can get so bad very hard deal with at home with minimal tool options . Best thing can do is spray all bolts/joints with a spray can of waxoyl or similar as makes night and day difference to corrosion level and lubes the threads .

Doesn't take long, either use hydraulic press or bush forcing screw tool set . With bush forcing screw tool set and air hammer we can do some bush replacement without removing suspension arms fully thus saving time and parts needed . If can't get them out in one, push rubber out first, then cut wall of metal sleeve with air hacksaw or recip sawsaw and tap it out, decent air hammer super useful here . It takes me about 2hrs max remove rebuild and fit front pair lower arms, cheapest option is the pattern arms around £66 and just bolt on but quality not good enough for my liking on cheaper whole arms want use that route . It a must for safety, end result drive feel and long life thus better long term value use better quality only for suspension repair . Those horizontal mounted rear bushes don't last long, awful design when used on rovers decades ago and euro trash used it too, older design subaru front arms rear bush way better but not as cheap make 😕 too many accountants and not enough engineers in modern manufacture 😞

Heres some part numbers (use numbers and google and you find online and alternative brands via likes of autodoc.co.uk or even eBay Bushes front control arm front bush: Febest SAB-018 rear bush: Febest SAB-017 or Febi Bilstein 42787 ball joint: 555 japan SB-6642 Both bushes and a ball joint cost under £50 per arm for decent branded (555 BJ's top quality) control arms complete (would not recomend aftermarket arms unless corrosion or accident damage and don't want pay oem price) front right: Spidan 58191 front left: Spidan 58190

Yeh the turbo a joy unless do mpg calcs 🙂 Coming up to time of year you really start loving a Forester . I'll post links to front arm bushes and balljoint, know which ones they are as common failure due to crappy design on later models (earlier design of rear bush way better) pic just so we 110% .

yeh don't scrap the oem arms, worth keeping or selling . If you need bush part numbers PM ne pic of arm as a rule of thumb just about all arm bushes, lower ball joint and drop links front and rear are around £20 mark each . japanpart and NTY do patern arms (I don't use them unless oem arms damaged , choice of bushes is huge from firstline, adl, febi bilstein, delphi, febest, japanparts, fai, moog, 555, etc etc .

No doesn't sound right to me. You can get pattern arms (about 60 to 100quid) Best always keeping quality original arm if clean and fit new bushes (front and rear bush press fitment) Febi Bilstein do the bushes at around £22 for front control arm rear bush With bushes got be fussy on brands, Febi Bilstein, Febest pretty good products with good lifespan . Bushes be around £50 per arm and I could fit bushes to both arms in hour and a half so that around £220 , if needed drop link or ball joints as extras that pretty cheap . I would need see car be specific or at least pics to confirm part numbers but doubt you need spend much more than £420 do all that work Subaru suspension parts are cheap as most bushes cross at least 3 models and quite a few good brands do the parts . Main issue is many mechanics don't know the cars or part options well thus you pay for their lack of experience .

hope you get some proper nasty weather try them out . I been pretty impressed and they fairly sensible cost for quality you getting weatherproof seems a great match to foresters, outbacks and xv's for more rural/mixed use UK users .

^ yes the modern diesel is useless for annual mileage under 15K in my opinion . If you want reliable and proper built buy a 20yr old subaru , I own 4 of them and they 100% hassle free .

You can get them off ebay seller with 8% off when buy 4 and got another 20% off until 26th with PLENTIFUL code https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TYRE-Nokian-Weatherproof-SUV-215-65-R16-102H-XL-BSW-M-S/123906485221 We buy some tyre sets this way and some general parts off couple parts sellers as prices can be silly cheap .

Lamp unit bargain posted, made job easy and no big expense . Yes Subaru pretty easy work on, Fasteners and wiring connectors way better than Euro cars in general . Screw heads are JIS, while phillips fits JIS screwdrivers do fit better and reduce cam-out in tough scenarios . vessel do some nice screwdrivers

V rating is standard manufacturer rating on your model. Technically no issue using H or even T if selecting a more special winter or off road type tyre that limited on speed ratings or has massive price difference One thing you will have to do is declare this with your insurer. I would advise contacting insurer prior to buying just see they got no issues or fees . (you need some proof from insurers that you declared this either via post or email, phone confirmation it noted on records not always enough if did happen have legal issue in a claim scenario) I have nokian weatherproof on 2 of my foresters and both see use in farm fields and tracks and do pretty well in sensible mud situations. They very good balance of what can cope with, anything going have issues in proper muddy situation besides all out mud tyres. Never been stuck in snow, ice or mud but I do play safe side on the mud side of things . The Nokian Weatherproofs are pretty fantastic tyre at very reasonable pricing . Only you know exact conditions you drive in so take your own knowledge and preferences into account .. Hope you have good and safe winter experience with your Fozzy ...

A lot of owners will of had hassle, they had huge issues with these and got at least 2 firmware updates and huge amount of TSB's on the issues . You want press the dealers hep you out on this as spending 1.5K on a 3yr old car known issue is waste of money and even more so if replacement part is not revised . unfortunatly most of the newer cars are junk .

I have broken key extractor tools, either make something yourself (google it) or buy them off ebay perhaps getting them out door looks generally pretty easy and done in under 30 minute (many times just few minutes) or maybe hour if real tricky one. New key normally can be cut from 2 broken halves, we had this done a few times no bother, recovering key and cutting key should be half or less of subaru estimate .

Are the tyres any good or budget brand chineseium rubber ? How old are they (check the date code on tyre wall) Seems it only happen in wet tyre issue seems most likely thus good thing check first along with basic suspension visual checks. I've driven a few cars such as evo's gtr's with poor tyres and it frightening as normally they above average handling vehicles. Cause in most cases either junk chinese tyres or tyre compounds gone rock hard as so old . The forester is pretty good handling and suspension pretty durable besides rear sls struts that sag with age (that effects handling but not to your degree) As it a serious safety issue to you and others make proper effort get to bottom of it .

pad it with stainless steel wool before scr3wing/tacking it in position . is common issue on subaru exhausts . if i spell scr3wing correctly this happens !Removed! . just crazy ...

^ either resting foot on clutch at times or doing lot of reverse trailer manoeuvres perhaps, even people who say reverse park a car on an incline and doing it daily for years going take lot of life from clutch over someone with easy private drive newer subaru clutches don't last as well as older ones in general. low mileage generally not a good thing, sensible mileage is what you want. Short journeys and b roads are hard on any car, you imagine how much use a starter motor clutch, transmission and steering gets in 500 miles of town run around miles over couple months vs a day on motorway . Lot of low mileage cars also have pretty minimal services with several years and no oil change and not lot of money put into them as they don't use it much so don't invest much .

yes it best used over left idle for months, also ideal empty and refill oil and refrigerant around 4 or 5yr time span . Keep digging at it, I had few times when one after the other would be complete let down and time waste . Used car market has got worse, especially dealers stock . look on things like gumtree, I had few gems off my local area gumtree listings . Karma reward you eventually ....

main parts of system pretty reliable. Do get leaks at some of joints, sometimes things been made worse by leaving system empty rather than fixing it quick then more damage can occur . Dealers don't like spending money, air can get expensive and diagnosis done right costs and they see it as dead money and doubt it something they can do in-house unless bigger concern . Sounds like usual miss advertised pricey junk and quite a trip 😕