Mr B

that a well known issue and done a few threads on here covering it .

you can but easiest solution is something like this . use a bit of pu40 adhesive on the joint lap pipe faces and you done for £15 inc tube of sealant . do the flange properly be more expensive as need gasket and proper spring tension bolts(yours didn't have them and that helped it fail as joint too rigid) The 2 slip joints on the joiner will allow some flex/movement thus will last well . I done plenty of these, on the cats where flange tight to cat we used repair flanges, it ups cost as normally cat flange needs replacing as well (weld new flange plate on) and you got add cost of proper hardware and gaktet . I've had the slip joiners in use over 5yrs on regular customer cars and no issues, size around 50 to 55mm fit a lot of models but check both sides with caliper or string or 2 bits of baton screwed to another piece of timber make a caliper you can set then measure caliper gap with ruler . and search ebay for exhaust pipe connect and your size, you want longer one like pic so can loose flanges and reduced bad pipe section .

we done one for MOT work early last year. Sourced 2 front wings pattern part, not cheap, was £150 for what was £45 wings back in the day . We got them from panel specialist online . Really worth good search on google and ebay . Need complete exhaust which we got off ebay for next to nothing and decent enought fit and pretty decent ali coated steel . luckily rest of panels good and it just rear turrets and sill ends which easy fabricated for repair as not finish panels . What we had contemplated was cutting & patching front wings from later model wing or other close arch shape wing that chopped and tweaked to replicate mk1 shape, this can work well at very low part/material cost but very time consuming to be done to desired finish quality .

to be fair the sigma pretty good alarms, we don't see massive amount of issues (most issues are buggered fobs and people not knowing pin code) and most of the systems like 14 to 21 years old . Plus side is they well understood by most in trade who worth paying and easily bypassed removed or repaired at pretty low cost with used system parts . If you want more help upload a photo of alarm fob front and back and give details on exactly what happening - turn signal flash count, doors unlock but instantly relock ect ...

yes without travelling up to around 160 miles you limit your choice massively, very rare find exactly what you want in condition you desire on your doorstep ..

Yes expensive. If close maybe worth looking just gain knowledge and judge cars actual condition. For that price it have be immaculate and have lot of recent investment such as quality tyres quality oem parts and servicing to high standard . particularly mint older cars are worth paying extra as you get your money back many times over generally but you got have limits. I picked up really nice hard fault outback 3.0 under 100K pretty much new set of £400 tyres and well serviced for 3K, I could find cheaper but not better and for extra few hundred you getting real clean quality car that joy to own and little expense for many years if keep on top of basic servicing care . It very hard judge a cars value until you see it in person and more you view better you get at judging good from bad and learning issues ...

The U frame is for EU crash safety, while removing it can be answer from MOT perspective it can be a massive legal problem in an insurance issue in a accident that involves vehicle inspectors . They easy enough find used or buy new. If removing it soak bolts multiple times with penetrating fluid for week or 2 in advance . I assume emissions test values failed and suspects cat efficiency ! He can't fail a cat if emissions values fine just because he has assumptions on cat function ability . For corrosion testing they have a test tool which looks like a flat blade screwdriver with a small hard plastic hammer head with a flat end and round end for tapping suspect areas, the screw driver end is for scraping or prying only. They also should not be excessively stabbing holes all over the place, you only meant make holes as last resort in concluding how bad it is . Some MOT guys can make a right mess chasing down rust, you want find a better place for MOTs and keep using them as poor MOT quality is a annual nightmare, frustration and cost that best avoided .

No but if you got debris in the system from the first failure replacements have short life. It a right struggle clean them proper when have metal fragment within the system without lot of system part replacement service exchange units can be hit and miss as any reman parts tend be awful QC these days, we don't touch them, prefer fussy selection of genuine untouched used and ideally 100% new when viable cost .

bore and ringland for sure, 3 years of miss firing and fuel washing cylinder is not a good thing . cat and o2 sensors likely taken some damage and engine in general could be poor state from petrol dilution of the oil . Head cam journals tend get ruined from this . Sat idle on a drive for 2 years in UK weather will also add issues in getting it up to usable/mot passed spec . They not worth a lot even in good order really ...

I'm disappointed to here it a scam and the russian involvement, who would of ever thought ! , was really looking forward to it and in a subaru too .... 😕 Oh well back to spannering with my pants on 😞

it chain ...

I use autel tpms and sensors, sensors are around £160 a set of 4 . you can clone the original sensor ID's to a second set of wheels which handy . Reality is it should be easy for owner add/service sensors all from cars interface really and made a legal requirement to manufacture design . I see many owners who simply use a neatly cut piece of insulating rape to cover the tpms light lol . The current design and cost of tpms is usual modern era stupidity creating more hassle, cost and negligence than ever but someone profiting ! ...

They look original,should see stamped subaru on end near tailpipe ... they not too much issue welding as long not near piping from tank and no obvious leaks ... never nice knowing all that fuel sitting close though . I tend use old car heat shields as bit of protection and keep sparks/heat under some control . For a nice job you take parts off chop and clean them as desired then loose fit and cut your pipe to fit and tack in position then remove to do most of welding off car and leave easy weld for on car or if used a joiner can weld all off car . We can get parts where ever we like, is some disadvantages with online in terms of time to receive part, and returning it if issues . Worst issue is ordering parts and you get customer no show, With local auto factors this no issue as what not used simply picked up next delivery and no charges Other factor here is lot of times you may get extra parts delivered in case you need them on a job and again this works well via auto factors. Mainly it boils down garage wanting minimal hassle, easy new part to bolt or clip on and no head work on part research/sourcing, this type usually put big effort into is making bill out or feeding customers a load of fluff 🙂 I buy reasonable amount of parts off eBay and online parts site, handy for cheap and quick alarm keyfob solution, viable used part option and finding oem parts cheap or a preferred quality brand at sensible money, also use the 20% coupon times to stock few fairly common parts as prices so cheap for quality brands that nice work with (lot of factors stock low end brands these days)

good news, is pretty easy do decent job if buy preformed bends etc . No idea how some shops keep trading way they turn away easy work. Subaru parts are pretty easy and less of a muddle and easier get good parts than lot of french/german cars . So many garages who simply can't do any real work .

Yes can make sense and oem quality on struts is big jump even over the japan made KYB .

generally by quality level of construction and tail pipe style you possibly see product stamping on them if clean enough, the Y section is original and as been patched assume it just to remove bad flange joints .

My preference is the RA6028 mainly as the little extra height and stiffness tends be a good match to what the SLS managed when working correct. The RC6431 soon give you that slight sagging look with light load and seems you going new on front the better final balance front to rear on heights likely come from using RA6028 springs . Only real reasons to use RC6431 is if have preference to softer spring or desire lower side of subaru spec ride height . If using KYB shocks on front then using the KYB top mounts will be good as the KYB shock has a longer threaded shaft with flats for a wrench rather than broached allen/hex key and this difference stops the original plastic cap being refitted which a problem as the koyo bearing in the top mount only has integral seal bottom side so it soon collect dirt and water without the plastic cap. KYB top mount has integral seal both side of the bearing . What I will say though is the oem subaru top bearings are superb quality as koyo bearings are some of best made in the world and none of aftermarket will last as well . You could cut 1/4" off the top KYB shaft and put a slot in shaft if want reuse original subaru front top mounts and have plastic cover fit . Bit of silliness from KYB on design and purely a penny pinching one for simpler manufacture procedure . Is part availability and pricing good in Hungary ? That looks a great fishing location 🙂

Some after market cross it to both diesel and petrol and some don't, we had vegaz mufflers before for a petrol . Y section not as nicely done as the oem effort on any off the shelf aftermarket I seen I would be inclined repair original if it only the short pipe lengths from rear muffler inlets to the y section . If you rear muffler boxes pretty rot free tidy and functional and oem parts it real shame to bin that quality level just for the short joiner pipe lengths .

Yes most bigger outlets won't be interested in your parts or fabricating . If the current back boxes good besides pipe you may be able just redo short joint lengths of pipe and have solid and tidy end result butter than previous joint patch effort . Smaller friendly shop that handy with a mig be way go, is pretty pleasing work for hour or 2 and some straight and bent pipe lengths not expensive . It really easy do but not easy find many willing, to many shops just want easy bolt on and the profit from marking up sourced parts If you get new boxes you can buy flange plates to match as bare plates or pre welded to short length of pipe, I used them a lot on older models for cat outlet joint repairs, the older model single rear exhaust and centre pipe so cheap for fairly decent parts it never worth repairs unless something basic like a hanger bracket . Yours is more pricey for decent enough quality and Y section would up the cost further ... why they can't make them from more stainless like toyota did for a while . oem exhaust part pricing is ridiculous money ... Do still see lot of 20year old outbacks and foresters with original exhausts with minor fix, newer is engineered cheaper unfortunately ...

it flange joints but yours been patched up by chopping joints out . you could buy standard boxes and pre cut flanges and get a shop make up the existing y section to standard flanges or go custom stainless to good point at y pipe or down to the middle pipe flange for a neater job . If planning on keeping it long time then stainless good but decent alu/steel tends last 5 to 10 years . scotland pretty tough on underside of cars though . Sometimes exhaust shops like powerflow so cheap it daft go steel, all down what services you got local enough ...

Yes H6 headgasket not a common issue . It needs looking at by decent specialist and that not a dealer generally lol . I generally sniff test the cooling system, chemical test can be useful too . Really needs a thorough diagnosis, check actual power/grounds on temop sensor and sensor out values are true, thermostat fans and general coolant system condition/flow and pump needs be reviewed . Removing plugs and visual examination and a endoscope can find useful results as can a good operator of a leak down tester, checking the bottom joint of head gasket can be useful too . Is an engine out job do the heads, while engine quick to remove is lot of hours in a good job and quality parts and machine shop don't come cheap. My quick pricing on head gaskets without reviewing it be 2.5K but could go to 3K . My first thoughts would be it lower chance of heads so couple hours or leaving it with mechanic for few days for good diagnosis/ use testing is where you need start . A garage that doesn't even own a pressure tester is not a good place start nor is a dealer who says 4K for head gaskets without advising you on thorough diagnosis, you need experience with test gear be any real good with it and for you get value from the repair you going ideally want a garage who done a few subaru engine builds as you don't want them learning at your cost . Make effort find good independent garage and only commit to gaskets if reasonable evidence found from proper testing not guessing . Good luck ...

In the case of tpms it tends work as a safety negative on older vehicles (and only few years old at that) as most driving round with faults and they don't want pay the extra costs dealing with tpms, this means even simple tyre change tends get put off and when do they cut tyre quality to offset cost of tpms issues being put right during tyre install . quite simply yours eyes and a £5 tyre gauge far better option, visual checking of tyres is far more important than pressure and tpms just makes people more lazy and less involved & educated and less wealthy lol . On general private use vehicles it a complete waste of resources and typical example of throwing technology at something and actually making safety and environment impact worse but advertisement and safety claims better on paper only ...

you could buy the autel tpms interface or go to a independent that can clone the tpms sensors so your winter set has same sensor ID's . To be quite honest tpms is another example of throwing electronics at it just for sake rather than real long term benefit and really is a waste of time money and materials used in general public vehicles . USA nanny state rules what got this into normal production cars worldwide ...

simple and cheap to resolve or fix. you can buy a bypass plug that goes on the harness to sigma main module (behind glovebox) which basically bypasses immobiliser circuits or even learn how do this manually (loads of info on sigma m30 alarms on the net) and gets you running Now the best way fix this is buy a used sigma module and keypad supplied with at least 1 working fob or 4 pin code and swap the parts to your forester which childs play and then reprogram your fobs using instructions in the M30 doc in many threads on this site . Generally you can get a used m30 alarm with fob/code for £100 from breakers/eBay and it pretty easy work swap it over and reprogram or swap the working alarm fob board to your key if they the same fob style. I done this a few times for customers as cheapest fastest solution and keeps alarm spec standard and easy .use . Need any more help PM me as m30 is that common an alarm any auto electrician or auto locksmith that can't deal with them isn't worth paying ...

Yours is a SF forester so you want struts and springs as listed below > SF Right Absorber KYB 334191 Left Absorber KYB 334192 Protecton boots/bumps KYB 910072 Coilover Springs KYB RA5761 The SG struts 334345 334344 do fit but have slight difference in brake pipe bracket and lower spring seat is slightly higher so if use with RA5761 springs rear height is about 20mm over standard . You could buy the SG strut top mounts then use SG springs SG Right Absorber KYB 334344 Left Absorber KYB 334345 Coilover Springs KYB RC6431 (heavy duty RA6028) Springcoil could likely supply springs for your SG struts and SF strut mounts but if they haven't done it before it might be bit of guess on working out the coil length for perfect final ride height . You could also try SUPLEX SUP32034 springs with the SG struts and SF strut mounts as they little more low than KYB springs from my experience .