Mr B

power the motor with a 14v tool battery or a spare car battery with couple spare bits of cable and clips . I use a 14v tool battery in salvage yard all time for testing things like fans, pumps and wiper/window motors. On window motor you simply reverse polarity for up/down (motor drive direction)

Dexron lll or subaru oem spec .

lot of newer cars do fluctuate around 40 to 60mA, seem have lot of pointless module wakeups and users across lot of car manufacturers are suffering from poor battery life, constant no starts and general buggy module software along with silly short lifespan faults from general penny pinching component quality. In my opinion anything over 40mA is not good even if it engineered to be that level, Newer cars are killing batteries real fast from combination of higher drain pulling batteries down further and causing more deterioration in the cells and from fact most modern car battery durability is about half of what it was a decade or 2 ago . Older models was about 40mA max and we didn't like seeing it that high really, well under 30 preferred and good out the factory range was seen around 15 to 25mA . A lot of poor engineering exists today unfortunately in poor choice of way too much unneeded electronics along with sloppy software and general poor quality from engineering to a minimal quality level which is putting most of the new stuff in the crusher while the older generation vehicles still going almost faultlessly . Really is good environmental logic is newer cars ! (far from it if do lifespan equations and include amount of parts and consumables they used)

Well you certainly got a parasitic draw, fairly large, likely close to 1 amp. You would expect under 20mA draw on these once locked and modules all sleeping . Don't overlook possibility of alternator being culprit, bad diode will cause it pull current when stationary . You could check that easily with you multimeter in amp mode in series or just leave alternator harness and cable to battery disconnected overnight . Your best way beyond this is leaving bonnet and drivers door open with bonnet alarm and door latch moved to lock/closed positions and allow car modules to go fully sleep and measure voltage drops across fuses and use a voltage drop to amp draw chart find circuit that active then pull up some wiring diagrams of that circuit to search and test further to narrow it down . You will find a huge amount of information and videos on doing voltage drop parasitic draw testing online that be far more fast education training that what I can put in this reply. Fast way we do it on what likely large current draw like yours seems to be is infrared thermometer (preferably imager), can pinpoint the hot fuse/relay/module/motor/solenoid in literary seconds . Basically as you got a multimeter, you got good chance narrow this down with bit more work and mastering a technique . good luck ... * Would be good putting your multimeter in series with battery + to actually measure the current draw so you know figures you looking for (some good videos can be found on how easily do this ) An amp clamp meter useful for this sort of auto test work that cheap is UT210E, pretty good and under £30 mark and can be made a really nice cheap tool if modify the firmware a little, I got a couple of these meters and they useful and disposable to me at that cost .

change it is the sensible route . You could probably do a repair plastic welding it if really had to but simply not worth messing with and cooling system issues can end badly and your wife giving you a black eye & kick in the crown jewels . Those plastic end cap rads are garbage long term as the hot coolant and heat cycles leaches chemicals from plastic and they become as fragile as an egg shell . Generally we add a rad to a quote on few jobs when know they likely best replaced and likely be a problem . Have had pay for a radiator for a customer myself as they moaned I broke it and to be fair I hadn't highlighted the risk and it wasn't directly linked to work being done, they can get really bad, good old pressed metal was far better, alloy is great and do find some pretty good options at sensible money .

the C frame available (ICP may have it stocked) but as prices for like new used been far cheaper we never went new route as most customers wouldn't pay it . The sump doesn't come with gasket as uses sealant from factory and that how you redo it, subaru do sealant but it crazy priced and plenty good sealants available from motor factors or online. Most people who not done professional work or made effort learn sensible application of sealant make a right mess, even to point excess sealant that come out of joint on inside ends up in oil galleries or blocks sump oil pickup killing the engine. I've seen so many awful applications of sealant I like highlight the issue in hope people learn a bit more on usage technique and take a little more care doing it . I do believe SSM has some instructions on sealant application, I will upload it if can tomorrow .

the bolts are all available as subaru parts ... I assume you referring to the C frame rather than the subframe that the engine mounts on ? either can be sourced used, C frame is most common for corrosion . Sump can be fairly common too, we done an engine swap late last year as owner had avoided getting a sump at a heavy final cost ...

We get genuine sumps from ICP, they about 40 to £50, you should get some club discount with them. https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=6403&cat=96&sub=494&sec=0&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= You need lift engine slightly fit in car, will need quality sealant and applied properly to avoid leaks or problems from excess sealant . Front frame assembly can be sourced A1 condition used and pretty easy fit if don't break any mounting bolts or captive nut plates (plenty penetrant in advance big help) . eBay a good source or good breaker .

Not really waste of money if all you after is some modest gains making most of standard map potential/limits . They cheap and dirt cheap used , you get potential of improved boost control system, visual readings and warnings. Any old turbo car wants a trip to a dyno even when standard power or at least a road run with wide band and knock monitoring to check general ability still acceptable . About best money an owner could spend is some setup time and checkup but unfortunately most don't until too late . With maf map and injector changes within sensible resolution you got lot of potential and programable parameters . Standard ecu's far more capable than most remember, go back 15 to 20 years and see what they achieved from them in motorsport and private tuning . It more a case that modern ECU got a lot more affordable and is easier/faster map and has advancements from massive technology leap that maybe benefit to you pending on what you actually doing . A lot of people with modest power goals (and majority power numbers are modest on 4 pot subarus) are actually wasting money on high end standalone ecu's that totally not needed for build spec and intended usage . To not waste money you got be very honest with yourself on build goals and have honest flexible tuners .

I wouldn't say it waste of money but it is limited in what achievable. The standard boost control is bleed type and thus not absolute best at boost response and has limitations of hardware and software control ability of that early era design . The standard maf and map will read any air flow given to it within its range and map table (and that is more than standard factory boost) so as long as keep boost thus air flow sensible the standard sensors and map can cope reading it accurately (This is the stock limits of what achievable if ignition and fuelling meeting requirements) . Main issue is component age/fatigue so any boost increase needs monitoring with wideband and knock sensors when setting a level above stock, fuelling tends be area that can struggle from worn pumps, poor wiring, pressure regulators not hitting the mark, injector flow and spray patterns poor . A good fuel pump and regulator can make the fuelling acceptable for moderate boost increases . Ignition timing standard maps are pretty safe on realistic boost ranges, when mapping you normally increasing timing for easy power gains as standard map quite conservative . In short some gains can be had from a stand alone boost controller and you can get perfectly good results from standard ecu (remapping when beyond range of standard map tables or sensors) and you can go a long way on remapping and linked hardware upgrades before truly needing another ecu . A lot of ecu changes to standalone comes down to programming ease/speed and modern era reasonable pricing along with tuning scene marketing over fact it truly needed due to real limitation .

amazing what visual difference a set of rims can make . anything below a 55 profile on UK rough B roads is not great in comfort or actual traction . Size you got now not just looks better but is better to the roads and driving you do, the weatherproof is pretty good tyre, recommend and fit them quite a bit on foresters and outbacks .

yeah you need be over 140 for free shipping as judd highlighted . Before the new year brexit changes autodoc was quite a bit cheaper . We used them quite a bit as allow getting quality brands we wanted at prices better than garbage at local factors . I use bulk the price up with Mapco HPS line front & rear drop links, they proved be pretty and was £8 a piece last year, now closer to 12 . I would avoid GSF Halfords and ECP, awful pricing/discount scams, poor knowledge and stock a lot of monkey metal brands . Only got 3 small chain/independent motor factors near me and only one of them is proper oldschool in terms of service knowledge and quality parts and consumables . Hope you get noticeable improvement once fitted .

autodoc are okay, comes from germany generally, is about 3 different websites that bassically same suppliers. Prices can be good and if buying several items shipping cost is minimal extra ....

Well hopefully pads and disks and calliper slides in a state and big improvement can be had from quality new rotors and pads and general good clean up. obviously got something going on due to pulsing in pedal and fact wife noticing brakes feel weak . hopefully it not abs or master cylinder related . I guess copperslip usable as anti-squeal paste on caliper piston edge to pads and caliper fingers to outer pad but it not suitable for slides and shouldn't be used in pad retaining points . silicone grease is good versatile product covering lot of uses and do most brake needs besides hydraulic side where red brake grease best choice . Granville do quite a range including brake grease, silicone grease and red rubber grease in tubs or 70gram tubes that reasonably priced .

Generally rear top mounts in great order as they do very little, if heavy corrosion or rubber dry rotting then wise replace . Save yourself good £80 using current top mounts if good and they easy remove, spring compressor no real drama if done with some thought such as oil threads on spring clamp tools and seat them properly and evenly . I done some work in japan many years ago and salvage guys use to strip struts with impact gun with strut lying cardboard and feet resting on top hat while zip nut off, strut doesn't shoot across the floor like a torpedo but needs be done with some basic diligence . If you got an air impact or battery impact you undo strut to top mount nut easily, without that you have improvise such as using grips on strut rod (do not damage chrome surface and only do on new ones as last resort) or by making/buying a pass through tool (old socket with flats cut/ground for wrench and access through drive square can work) Like you say very little disconnect and should be easy as been done fairly recently although by looks of vehicle rear height with wrong new springs (probably sls spec springs) or old sls springs reused . An extendable 1/2" ratchet such as this can be very useful for strut bolts if your tool kit bit minimal, they quite decent heavy duty ratchets if lightly grease ratchet mechanism and pinch the clevis torx screw good and tight .

unfortunately environment and H&S good excuses to make cheaper products and they can make more money not just through cost reduction but through fact you need 2 or 3X the replacements due to short service life (great for environment is all that extra service parts and packaging) . Don't get started on electric handbrakes lol, classic stupidity partly to cause complexity and make you need use professional services and require more equipment and service/repair data . Amazing thing as well is most vehicle owners will have no idea how use their electric brake in an emergency Lot of hassle when faulty as well, i've been called out to release faulty/dead parking brakes by disconnecting the harness and using jump pack power drive motors or dismantle when motor/mechanism failed so could recover it easily, get lot of diy guys who get in a mess as well when procedures don't go right and needs high level scan tools or service data recalibrate/set brakes. On to the original post ... Checking brakes fully be good idea, certainly check slide pins, piston and pad movement free . Most people/garages don't do brakes well, I like use knew brake hardware clips in most instances and these tend be extra rather than included with brake pads, discs are so cheap these days refacing them is not viable, copperslip is a big no no as not suitable for most brake job needs, silicone grease ceramic brake grease and red rubber grease only things should be using on brakes and hydraulics . We use ADL Apec Brembo Juratek brakes for run of the mill oem replacement applications, Juratek being more budget option but we had no issues with them and product better than eurotrash parts brands and most other lower cost options . Disc warping can cause pulsing in pedal as can deposits on disc or even abs/brake hydraulic faults . I wouldn't say forester brakes bad feeling generally, start with good install and inspection of some new decent end brakes and see how plays out .

Seems your garage doing lot of guessing as don't know how to test . Thing that concerns me is cat failure at that low mileage . Did they not do live data on lambda readings and thermal temp scan of cats get idea what likely wrong !? If they replaced Lambda sensor what was fitted ? oem or aftermarket. These cars are super fussy on Lambda and oem denso what best used, anything else results in more faults . Hopefully they kept the original sensor . Generally speaking you can tell sensors working and cat health to some extent from pre and post Lambda readings and reaction, thermal readings of cat helps determine if it working . Seems low mileage for cat failure and makes me wonder if underlying issue of fuelling or burning bit of oil . Technically removing cat is illegal, can get your car confiscated and you in court . Emission equipment checks more stringent and only getting more so, it harder for garages be lenient on these areas, is an option though . Seems no real diagnosis been done I be reluctant throw silly money at oem or aftermarket cat as it might not be the problem and an underlying issue could ruin new part bringing you back to square one . I would consider second opinion from someone who can test it bit further and consider used oem cat or cheaper aftermarket cat like BM and buy it at low price, can get on eBay via carpartsinmotion with 15 to 20% off as they often in ebay coupon promotions https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Catalytic-Converter-Type-Approved-BM91425H-BM-Cats-44105AG100-44620AA401-Quality/333846221297 Personally I like oem but new oem with all required parts is stupid money (parts and fitting can exceed car value), sensible priced used can be effective route. We done a couple with BM as some customers simply want cost viable and they not too bad . Also if your EML warning light not coming on quickly after reset you more likely pass MOT as is and codes cleared right before test . I would take your time make wise choice on solution selection and try find a garage that can be more conclusive in diagnosis .

Parts . KYB Rear right shock kyb 334344 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-Handed-Rear-Right-334344-KYB-20360SA000-20360SA0009L-New/333627732997 Rear left shock kyb 334345 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Single-Rear-Left-334345-KYB-Damper-20360SA010-Quality-New/233870608959 Heavy duty springs (x2) RA6028 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coil-Spring-Rear-RA6028-KYB-Suspension-Genuine-Top-Quality-Guaranteed-New/233872804339 Bump stop and boot protection kit (covers 2 shocks, 2 boots and 2 bump stops) kyb 910046 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Dust-Cover-Kit-Rear-910046-KYB-Protect-20371AA040-20371AA041-New/333794666126 15% off on above parts from seller carpartsinmotion today until 23:59:59 (code: PURCHASE15) Strut top mount (x2) kyb SM5422 (doubt you absolutely need replace these) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-REAR-AXLE-TOP-STRUT-MOUNTING-PAIR-SET-KYB-OE-QUALITY-REPLACEMENT-SM5422/113851373064 Springs sold as pair from this seller will be bit cheaper https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Kayaba-RA6028-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Springs/223592428085 spring compressor tool https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pc-EXTRA-LONG-HEAVY-DUTY-COIL-SPRING-COMPRESSOR-370mm-SUSPENSION-CLAMP-TOOL-SET/130740749096 I would buy 2 of these and use 3 clamps to compress spring (improves safety and makes compressing HD springs easier) * DO NOT GIVE SELLERS YOUR CAR DETAILS AS THEY LIKELY CANCEL ORDER AS PARTS WILL NOT MATCH VIA COMPUTER AS YOUR CAR WILL SHOW AS SLS * We use carpartsinmotion as Devon office not far from us and they cheaper on lot of things by huge amount for preferred brands compared to our trade accounts at local factors ... Hope that helps ....

I would suspect you have wrong springs on the monroe shock, the spring is specific to SLS or non SLS and is a chance SLS spring been used and that result in low height and sagging quickly with trailer tongue weight . Do your measuring again as service data diagram below as measuring from ground no good as different tyre/wheel combo's give different heights and pedders stupid for using measures like that . For guidance look at this thread > You will need buy a spring compressor tool and may also need buy new rear drop links as if rusted they easier cut off and new fitted (If both sides of rear off ground when doing the job then don't really need disconnect drop link but lifting 1 side at a time drop link does need be detached at one point) I will link parts below, if buy today on eBay you will get 15% discount (PURCHASE15)

^ I wouldn't be so confident, is a reason it needs reboot and that either buggy software or hardware bugging the software . I would expect issue be back and if it is you better getting vehicle swapped or your money back unless they good enough diagnose root cause .

Just be diligent and not hot headed, keep clean and all be good, top up with suitable atf and bleed system by turning lock to lock . It is simple job, hopefully you get lucky on good used part and old pump is at fault . Has original pump/vehicle done high miles ?

Yes, main loom has plugs, hopefully you got all parts and working seat heat pads . Personally I would give leather a miss (awful in summer and jap leather not last well) and use the dark graphite/black cloth seats/trims from later all weather models as that pretty durable .

possibly pump low efficiency at low speed (worn/failing pump which not too uncommon) Check fluid level in pump, check for leaks and do general visual checks of steering and if see nothing you be wise take it to a decent mechanic under suspicion of pump or if you DIY type guy maybe changing pump yourself, don't leave it too long as total pump failure can cause more issues to whole system if metal debris passes into rack an lines . If is the pump do not buy aftermarket, you better with oem subaru used of cheap pattern part new or recon .

ICP do the crank (should get 10% or better discount), new crank isn't a cure all solution but could be worth it if engine price sensible. Engine MUST be 2009 onwards ... 2007-2009 engine not worth much as they ones that fail the most and the latest crankshaft 12200AA480 will not fit them. Wouldn't trust used mileage they quote unless got definitive proof . We don't do many diesel engine swaps as unfortunately cost is too much for most owners as used engine prices are silly money & still a time bomb ... Only really viable repair if get lucky with cheap engine or can fit it yourself. Most of these diesels subarus are going for scrap while some of best models from late 90's to early millennium still working perfectly 20 to 30 years on ! Modern cars from all manufacturers are complete garbage and MASSIVE environmental impact as they don't last and consume huge amount of materials and parts due to short component life and service requirement keep ridiculous emission workarounds functional, absolute madness !!!! about time the public woke up to the fact they being lied to and conned ...

Because 2011 engine can use all your common rail injection and systems thus your current original ECU Later than that would require ECU changes which would be massive work and cost .