Everything posted by Mr B
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It still wise drain gear oils at sensible intervals mainly as good way visually see gearbox/transferbox/diff in good order and keep meshing swarf to a minimum. some gearboxes have oil pumps and filters, all have lubrication feed wells of which stay working better in later life when been kept extra clean .
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Good job well worth the trip and well worth 300quid . their prices seem very good, although as specialise in this work they fast and materials cheaper in bulk and good knowledge of supply chain . would of been a miserable result if had ended up with of the shelf NA mild steel system . have fun with your XT and thank the wife for putting up with you and your phone 🙂 ...
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Give us a couple shots of finished system . I quite like looking at old mens polished pipes and a proper job . interested in the price too if you happy disclose that ...
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Yes none of the motorfactor systems match oem diameter as all they done is mark a non turbo system as XT fitment in the model fitment ... I normally get 1 or 2 XT models a year in that got 1.75 to 2" cat back junk systems on them . I use to to get systems done at a powerflow shop as fairly good price for good system and guy working there always done good effort on fitment and matching sound to what customers would like . Trouble with that was handing good paid easy work away and with cars aged a lot people don't want spend more half the price they paid for the whole car on an exhaust . We now sometimes use good used impreza turbo parts which easy source some stock and mod to fit and do our own exhausts mig welded as less material/labour cost and only tig downpipes and manifold work or tig a whole system if customer wants it .
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No idea on your wetproof as I never used them, being a summer tyre they should wear better than compound of the all weather model all season tyre . 10K is poor for tyres on a forester with good suspension setup. Get better than that from budget asian winter and all season tyres .
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Be careful of after market standard system as most will be NA spec thus smaller bore and more restrictive than turbo spec . cheapest solution is picking up a decent used system off a turbo impreza and tweaking it to fit the foz xt .
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The Nokian All Weather should do 20K+ easily if geometry correct and rotation done. Foresters are good on tyres when suspension in good order . Tyre pressures important too and can be good run extra 2-3psi on the fronts in better weather seasons . If wearing bad on outer edge camber/toe likely wrong, you got camber bolts on front strut lower flange top bolt which make adjustment easy but also easy mess up when people do suspension work and don't know it a camber bolt and make no reference mark before undoing it . If get any alignment always get a print out of settings, too many shops just do a 5 minute toe and go. Other issue you got is while equipment maybe best on market if not used 100% correctly the vehicle will leave with wrong settings and many times worse than when went in ... These machines need very fastidious operators get good results
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generally trailing arm spacer equal to lift spacer, although going bit more can be needed if already biased to front of arch a lot . 20 to 30mm likely range that work. from standard the always biased to front . What height gain did you get with new kyb fitted (measured from centre of hub cab to arch rubber trim fold)
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If your pre and post cat lambdas are showing logical readings to support ltft and not suspect or had any fault codes for them then it seems likely with your results so far that egr valve leak maybe internally valve not closing correctly and scavenging effect drawing intake air into the exhaust making the lambda sensors see a lean condition thus more fuel . How does car idle ? Is coolant and oil levels and appearance all normal . exhaust smell is probably from rich mixture/contaminated-failing cat perhaps . You could try a temporary block of egr for a test, might be an idea pull plugs and visual inspect tips to evaluate fuelling equal across cylinders . certainly needs sorting pretty quick as going cost a lot in fuel and component damage from serious fuelling issue .
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check self diagnostic codes and compressor clutch perhaps ...
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another fairly low cost solution is pick up used complete original keyfob same 1 button style and use the transponder chip in that and get it programmed to ecu, you also got the fob that you can program yourself to the alarm via the keypad . Transponder easy program with autel etc so pretty much most garages could do it and it don't take 30 minutes . With little bit of effort you can cut your key down and fit it into the fob or just cut the key off the fob with small protrusion and drill a hole and put it on keyring . You see used keyfobs around 15 to ÂŁ25 on eBay which fair if it tidy order as subaru dealers price about 10x that ...
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you have to ideally declare it as do anything these days but generally as got twin immobiliser on the sigma S30 that legislation approved and the cars low value they don't care on low theft risk models . I done it to a customers 2003 outback late last year and got them call insurance prior to doing it and getting bunch of keys cut . Is a useful workaround in some situations and on older base model cars that the whole car not worth much more than pair of original keyfobs and programming .
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minimal for those sizes, 3 to 5% difference in readings .... Is worth do a speedo comparison to gps data get idea how it falls, Most Jap cars we dealt with tend fall little short from factory on speed reading which helps balance gain to some extent. with large tyre diameter increase it concern that needs be addressed but you got quite few areas to engineer if going for big tyre size diameters .
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They didn't have 2 fog lights, for right hand drive fog on right and blanking cover on left for left hand drive EU cars it other way round This layout done on facelift SF models late 99 to 2002 Here's a cover but you have to paint it your colour https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FSUBARU-FORESTER-REAR-LEFT-BUMPER-Cover-Cap-Trim-Black/173684505924
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A work around you can do is take the transponder chip out of bottom part of your original keyfob and mount this small transponder chip to inner side of lock column plastic shroud near the transponder receiver which is obviously around the key barrel area thus eliminating need have transponders in keys . Have done this for some owners on older models who got no interest in ecu immobiliser and just want simple low cost low hassle same day solution to adding more keys .
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you can not program transponder via keypad as transponder not part of sigma alarm, transponder works with the cars ecu . you should find a local locksmith that will do it, some mobile ones exist too.
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M30 alarm document link > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing
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The original key has a transponder chip in the fob and that linked to ecu immobiliser cutout that factory built in . (Hold the original key near steering lock while have new key in ignition lock and you will see it will keep running) The Keyfob alarm is done for Europe (meeting required security standard) and is a Sigma M30 alarm system with fob keyboard and front panel custom made for original subaru keyfob which was remote locking only in original design . A good car locksmith can do you the transponder as well and then with key code it will work If you want spare fob you can buy a used M30 fob off eBay and program it to car I'll add link for M30 alarm advanced user guide later as handy thing have if you pretty new to the alarm .
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you could go 225 65 16 which give a ground height gain around 17mm 215 65 16 gain about 10mm 215 70 16 gain about 21mm I wouldn't go too big if 90% your time road and more so if do lot of better/faster road driving . I think you will find size availability (not many and even less with H or better speed rating) and price limit choices . I quite like toyo and have had open country on one of my foresters and they not a bad tyre and pretty good value . radar renegade at5 get good remarks from couple farmer customers who have them . 225 should fit without rubbing but 225 75 16 would show up need for lift blocks and trailing link spacer on rear help them fit more central in arch .
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They a reasonably good balance between road and bit of light off road and pretty sensibly priced for Toyo Japan tyres . Never really is perfect tyre for both and having spare set of rims for road tyres can be good way go if do a lot of road miles between the off roading . Main downside with A/T is drop in mpg and possibly noise . Is hard one balance and only you going know your exact aimed usage and road conditions Other issue you have is not many choices in tyre size and speed rating you ideally want .
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On the AWD system you want keep all 4 tyres as close same wear level (good tyre rotation a must on awd vehicles) and never different size and never different models either . you'll ruin transmission pretty quick with different sizes and even just size from wear difference front/rear as cooks the centre viscous diff due to axle speed differences . you can go up a tyre size without lift blocks no real problem so might be good idea get a full set (spare needs be same size too)
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A power feed or ground connection issue that all those circuits feed on, Should be fairly easy find by tracing likely causes from wiring diagram and good old visual inspection to start with . Don't overlook ignition switch either although likely cause more faults and fault lights I expect but have consult wiring diagram to get full idea on possibilities ...
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generally it just a case of the extra 10mm to the rear helps Ballance no SLS and gives car good stance . You could try 20mm all round as if using the HD springs it sits a little higher on rear any way and handles some load better . Best way is fit first, do measuring and see ride heights front and rear and compare to original ride heights then choose your spacers to get close to desired height from measured heights. I realize your time constraint on parts so a gamble on 20mm spacers all round could be good choice based on new kyb rear shocks with kyb HD springs . You can go up to 30mm without much hassle and no major effect on driveshafts but they will wear quicker due to angles if used off road a lot . You may also find you want trailing arm front mount spacer to centre wheel in rear arch at the 30mm+ lift
