Mr B

I wouldn't bother with the 2.5. You either want a 2.0XT Forester or the 3.0 outback .Nothing major to choose from them in running costs. sometimes paying more for real clean example is money and hassle saved and a car with bit more value when you sell . If you don't want travel too far then you going have accept what in your travel range, you can waste a few quid travelling long way to look at junk so even when find a great deal you spent couple hundred running around and many hours . Don't expect specialists always going have best cars, lot will have bad examples refreshed to some extent . Best cars are generally always found private sales .

up to 2008 is okay but after early 2006 you be paying £500+ in road tax on larger engines . Best built in terms of reliability due to over engineered quality components and thicker/better frame steel is 97 to 2002. any proper decent example from those years can be super easy live with, enjoyable and pretty cheap from purchase to yearly costs . \All down to you balance your preferences .

the self levelling rear suspension (SLS) is mechanical design within the strut . only people who supply the SLS type shock is Subaru, if your shocks where after market such as and hopefully KYB excel g (normally are as Subaru SLS struts are about £350 each) they need pairing with non SLS springs as they different spec or even better if towing a lot you want springcoil.co.uk make you custom set with + 20mm ride height and stiffer rating . When you use the old original SLS spring with new non SLS shock you get same issue as on the old shock with rear sagging as spring is 1mm thinner diameter on the SLS strut as the original SLS strut hydraulically assists the spring . Also worth checking the right shocks fitted, many times later SG shocks may get used and spring platform position differs on those . Most average garages are clueless on all this thus a serious hash up you get pay for .

nothing wrong with grey imports, tend be fairly honest cars, not a lot of clocking and jap auction paperwork generally detailed and genuine.

Good luck Do have extra good look around rear subframes, trailing link to body mounts and inner arches for rust Also look up previous MOT history online as advisories or previous failures on corrosion here will alert you to potential issues and where look A nice condition older outback or forester ar reliable and easy live with and cheap running . One of my Forester SF's is 20yrs old, everything works, nice and tidy and last MOT cost me £12 for a front inner CV boot . The Forester XT is quicker on B road blasting and easier lightly tune if you desire, Outback great if really want that volvo size cross country estate and the 3.0 is almost bomb proof and running on chain one less service item .

I wouldn't be too concerned on mileage as many times low miles cars are garbage as short trips and scooting around country lanes more wear and tear than clocking up big miles on the motorway . Most of these subarus still perfectly good at 120K Other areas look at is oil leaks, crank seals and cam covers can leak a little, check for noises from gearbox, wheel bearings, diffs . Just be thorough looking at every car and test everything electrical, good test drive is essential and ideally once you pretty sure it car you want a second test drive and look is a must to be sure you not missed anything and no running issues pop up . Warranty on older cars is almost useless if read small print so you generally down to good will of dealer . The cars are not worth that much in todays car market, dealers get the better examples from trade ins either direct or from main dealers who don't sell cars of certain age . Never be afraid knock price down as can always go back up but you never can go down . Lot of dealers put huge margins on cars and if not selling quick you will see 20%+ come off pretty quick, most these cars they would pay around 1 to 2K tops and maybe little more for real one off examples . I would say 3.5K about right for dealer price for good clean one but a true decent almost new looking example be worth bit more. Private sales 2 to 3K would be price range, prices go up late autumn and through winter,

autotrader tends be overpriced (always take 5 to 10% off priicing even before viewing) look ebay and local gumtree too . They tend come up in spurts and bit of a travel likely required for real gem of a car, preferred colour etc . Spend some time look at them, you never know a good car until seen 3 or 4 same models and learnt the car . Forester 2.0 turbo more tunable, more versatile vehicle but outbacks is lot for money if really need bigger sized estate and the 6 cylinder 3.0 is superb bit of engineering. Take a look at both and see what takes your fancy, older larger cars is buyers market and dealers selling at 4K have HUGE margins. Take your time and buy proper clean car and only buy when you 100% no doubts not when a dealer/seller talks you into the car .

go for a 2.0 XT forester or the 3.0 outback and older is better, you can get a 2004 to 2005 low mileage clean example for way less than your 5K budget meaning you got funds buy the best and spare cash service it and sort any tiny niggles. Staying older than 2006 gives you better road tax annual fee on larger engines,and far better built/reliable car. . the 2.5 has HG issue, the diesel is complete waste of time for efficiency and reliability as is any modern diesel on euro 4 and newer emissions . The even older Forester SF was most robust car subaru ever built. Common issues are rust on rear suspension, subframe and inner arches and rear self levelling suspension sagging but suspension easily changed to KYB excel g struts and you simply check well for rust concerns . Outbacks can be good deals but the 2.0XT forester also can be found pretty clean as not always as abused like standard foresters . Just be fussy and hold out for a truly decent one and build up some knowledge by viewing any local subarus first.

Well the release bearing on your diesel forester is same part as on the 2002-2008 forester 2.5 XT 5 speed and on lot of other subarus such as the impreza . I would get the sleeve based on the forester XT, would expect it straight fit or easily modified if perhaps length of snout a little shorter on the 6 speed box, just double check your release bearing oem numbers are listed in the kit details . (I checked via blueprint parts database ADS73310 release bearing, OEM: 30502AA120)

You referring to throw out bearing case snout sleeve ?

No need take cam sprockets off . back plate not in way . Be sure take rad and fans out in one unit (nothing gain leaving rad in if doing pump), better working space saves time and saves damaging fins of rad or worse .

Integral . Sometime proper good cleaning of the egr will keep it serviceable for a while but these valves work in such harsh conditions it basically a service part in reality .

Those codes are egr valve and normally egr valve position sensor not giving values ecu expects at the commanded duty value (valve sticky or position sensor inaccurate) . Most likely will need new EGR valve but diagnose first rather than shooting parts at it ...

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/2008/Impreza 2008/

Get wiring diagrams and check harness visually and with multimeter, if all in spec ideally want put a scope on that and check signals and timing correlational . Visually checking cam belt with top covers pulled could be wise, you may see belt overly loose (tensioner bad perhaps)

2008 to early 2011 best avoided, 2011 on better reliability of crank and less issues with injector learning and clutches. Clutches can be an issue and it not really a software fix (all they done on software was change power curve trying give clutch easier time . For diesel awd it hard beat best model volvos and 2005 to 2009 they done some nice built models that decent used buy prices ...

For diesel the volvo wins, if petrol the subaru be hard beat . An earlier diesel volvo if hand pick a looked after sensible mileage one are solid cars . Don't get caught up in newer is better (beside fact subaru later diesels did iron out some of the issues a bit), I work on the stuff daily and newer cars are cheaper made and more expense due to silly failures than stuff from 1998 to 2008 as they had good engineering and better quality parts . Unfortunatly all the engineering skill has gone on stupid emission systems that are nothing but a con on making nice tailpipe test figures and in making parts cheap as possible for better profit margins . It very hard recommend subaru diesels unfortunately ...

it not safe assume a diesel be same diff ratio as petrol, you need take all numbers off the diff or research your model and cross reference .

For diesel I be looking at Volvo as well . With Subaru you ideally want be looking at 2012 on for less major diesel issues .

Couple ways test this, I put vehicle on lift and run it in air and listen at hubs etc with stethoscope You can also tell a lot if experienced from road test by how noise changes as come on off throttle (wheel bearing stays same besides speed of noise while a diff changes drastically as power comes on and off Also rocking steering left to right will load bearing and change/stop noise indicating bearing and what side . If you got axles stands and flat ground you could try run it while on 4 stands for a good diagnosis . It would take me 15minutes check that out so maybe worth going to decent garage and get them check it vs the part cannon method . If you gambling man do the other bearing (bearings are common on these) Use decent brand bearings/hubs (preferably japanese) as the cheap euro stuff pretty poor and can soon be bad again or bad straight out the box . Also worth checking/draining the diff oil for inspection if got any doubt on it .

08 to 10 diesel engines are a big gamble of risk . any problems soon esculate to serious expensive bills that soon add up to your buying price . The pretty much worthless on the used market so if you do buy one prices paid should be rock bottom .

The 2008 to 2010 diesel is a bottomless pit so do some research and spend wisely .

knowing the diesel that not going be simple or cheap ... poor running and oil leaks on these are signs of bigger issues brewing generally ...

i have used ones for £20 plus shipping ...

Save yourself a lot of purchase expense and hassle and buy a proper clean proper built older forester XT, newer cars simply not even close in no hassle long term quality and durability .