Mr B

2008 to early 2011 best avoided, 2011 on better reliability of crank and less issues with injector learning and clutches. Clutches can be an issue and it not really a software fix (all they done on software was change power curve trying give clutch easier time . For diesel awd it hard beat best model volvos and 2005 to 2009 they done some nice built models that decent used buy prices ...

For diesel the volvo wins, if petrol the subaru be hard beat . An earlier diesel volvo if hand pick a looked after sensible mileage one are solid cars . Don't get caught up in newer is better (beside fact subaru later diesels did iron out some of the issues a bit), I work on the stuff daily and newer cars are cheaper made and more expense due to silly failures than stuff from 1998 to 2008 as they had good engineering and better quality parts . Unfortunatly all the engineering skill has gone on stupid emission systems that are nothing but a con on making nice tailpipe test figures and in making parts cheap as possible for better profit margins . It very hard recommend subaru diesels unfortunately ...

it not safe assume a diesel be same diff ratio as petrol, you need take all numbers off the diff or research your model and cross reference .

For diesel I be looking at Volvo as well . With Subaru you ideally want be looking at 2012 on for less major diesel issues .

Couple ways test this, I put vehicle on lift and run it in air and listen at hubs etc with stethoscope You can also tell a lot if experienced from road test by how noise changes as come on off throttle (wheel bearing stays same besides speed of noise while a diff changes drastically as power comes on and off Also rocking steering left to right will load bearing and change/stop noise indicating bearing and what side . If you got axles stands and flat ground you could try run it while on 4 stands for a good diagnosis . It would take me 15minutes check that out so maybe worth going to decent garage and get them check it vs the part cannon method . If you gambling man do the other bearing (bearings are common on these) Use decent brand bearings/hubs (preferably japanese) as the cheap euro stuff pretty poor and can soon be bad again or bad straight out the box . Also worth checking/draining the diff oil for inspection if got any doubt on it .

08 to 10 diesel engines are a big gamble of risk . any problems soon esculate to serious expensive bills that soon add up to your buying price . The pretty much worthless on the used market so if you do buy one prices paid should be rock bottom .

The 2008 to 2010 diesel is a bottomless pit so do some research and spend wisely .

knowing the diesel that not going be simple or cheap ... poor running and oil leaks on these are signs of bigger issues brewing generally ...

i have used ones for £20 plus shipping ...

Save yourself a lot of purchase expense and hassle and buy a proper clean proper built older forester XT, newer cars simply not even close in no hassle long term quality and durability .

I would make your dealer get to root of issue rather than patching it up with solar charge panel ... If going trickle charge you ideally going want separate wire run direct from battery with inline fuse .

yeh oem genuine subaru branded or straight from original manufacturer unbranded . original bushes can be had under £20 each and are press fit, we do these on car with forcing scre and cup kit . If it is the front control arms bushes then you may want do both bushes on each arm only other bushes likely be possibly bad is swaybar bushes/links. besides possibly the control arm rear bush I wouldn't expect any bushes be that bad at 50K but if been on farm drive or daily patch of bad road it might .

Nothing wrong with brakes, pads just under half their life and discs have a little wear edge is totally normal, you likely throwing away original top quality parts and wasting good money for nothing replacing them this early and also adding recycling waste when not needed. Suspension bushes more worthwhile if indeed fatigued, the rear horizontal flex bush on front wishbones is crap design on these over earlier model torsional pin bush (was a crap design on rover ford and peugeot for decades so surprised subaru went similar 😕 ). oem bushes is way to go .

PITA pain in the ar5e 🙂 Injector learning seems not be the best, could actually be injector wear issues and computer algorithm simply doesn't deal with it well. symptoms from that is rattly noises, diesel knock, rough idle ... none of firmware versions seems fully cure it and expensive trying improve it via software or common rail part swapping 2013 is model less prone to problems but they can still happen, dpf issues is much same for all manufacturers as the concept is flawed environmental engineering. Crank is the big issue but as mentioned 2013 is better than 2008 2010 era . Just don't pay too much for one as they not worth a lot due to these issues on used market plus you want reserve funds for potential issues if arise . Maintenance wise plenty oil changes, if doing 18K a year I would say 3 oil changes a year be good ( not too pricey if can do that yourself, quality oil and filters is a must) Other thing you can do is use likes of millers diesel fuel treatment that improves the burn and cleans/lubricates injectors . Just don't expect 300K from engines like the old boxer 2.0 petrols from late 90's early 2000's been know to do, all newer cars are lower part quality and even japan cars not as reliable these days due to this .

If you not doing the mileage get a petrol, the diesel is a PITA between dpf issues, injector learning issues and crank issues.

Sounds good, decent quality matching tyres a good move on awd, amount of people make a fuss about needing awd yet happy with junk types overwhelms me, absolute nightmare get some customers buy good tyres even when wife and kids using car daily :-S Sounds like you happy ...

One would hope old cap not seating correctly as easy fix for you, lot of people overlook cap and when pressure test the cap replaced with tester and often ignored . OEM caps generally durable, aftermarket tends be junky so if was aftermarket wouldn't be too surprised ....

Seller probably wrong You got pic of one ... Yours is facelift and think will be abakus 320-2009R (right) and abakus 320-2009L (left) New not cheap but used likely similar shape to yours, no chance getting bulb out and cleaning them up ? is harness plug good order ?

1.3bar cap not going be a cure unless the 0.9bar was actually faulty .

ask the dealer if they know what acceptable current draw at sleep is and what your car actually is (doubt they know as not tested it) You sounding likely got a fault as a 60ah battery last months parked up unused on normal parasitic draw conditions . Consider how many people park up a car at an airport fo few weeks/month and they don't all come back to a flat battery, it not normal working scenario ...

Subaru are bullsh1tt1ng you, 1 or 2 weeks should not result in flat battery . You have a parasitic draw issue probably, alternator, alarm or modules not going sleep mode (constantly going sleep then back on) common suspects . Quite easy diagnose but lot of dealers poor at it as simply use to service work and due to mainly working on newer vehicles they got little experience in odd fault diagnosis thus fob you off ...

Not really practically possible as you will have huge amount issues with a 5eat conversion, what you going do with clutch pedal/gear sensors ? Would all start requiring massive amount mapping, you would have an auto box ecu and how you going add that to the canbus network . euro 6 not a easy swap, the common rail system differs too much so can't bolt the euro 4 stuff to it . The diesel is a known issue engine and simply not worth the bother .

can't conclude much from that . pretty much normal see some film on surface, They don't mix the oil normally unless issue gets severe . If problem persists get a garage who knows what they doing gas sniff it after a run, it the best way we found on these . In early stages of failure and intermittent issue can be hard pull test results in one go so got try a few times .

On the 2.5 you got treat the HG like a service item , not that big a deal caught early .

Trouble is lot of the airlocks you get could be combustion gases that forced through at specific running temp points that effect the sealing ability Can be reason for leaks too as strains older pipes and radiator. Everyone hopes it a leak but continuing coolant issues on the 2.5 tends end up head gasket, they all fail no exceptions even non turbo 2.5 same issue . Main thing is not ignore issue and get to bottom of it in timely manner ...