Mr B

I would make your dealer get to root of issue rather than patching it up with solar charge panel ... If going trickle charge you ideally going want separate wire run direct from battery with inline fuse .

yeh oem genuine subaru branded or straight from original manufacturer unbranded . original bushes can be had under £20 each and are press fit, we do these on car with forcing scre and cup kit . If it is the front control arms bushes then you may want do both bushes on each arm only other bushes likely be possibly bad is swaybar bushes/links. besides possibly the control arm rear bush I wouldn't expect any bushes be that bad at 50K but if been on farm drive or daily patch of bad road it might .

Nothing wrong with brakes, pads just under half their life and discs have a little wear edge is totally normal, you likely throwing away original top quality parts and wasting good money for nothing replacing them this early and also adding recycling waste when not needed. Suspension bushes more worthwhile if indeed fatigued, the rear horizontal flex bush on front wishbones is crap design on these over earlier model torsional pin bush (was a crap design on rover ford and peugeot for decades so surprised subaru went similar 😕 ). oem bushes is way to go .

PITA pain in the ar5e 🙂 Injector learning seems not be the best, could actually be injector wear issues and computer algorithm simply doesn't deal with it well. symptoms from that is rattly noises, diesel knock, rough idle ... none of firmware versions seems fully cure it and expensive trying improve it via software or common rail part swapping 2013 is model less prone to problems but they can still happen, dpf issues is much same for all manufacturers as the concept is flawed environmental engineering. Crank is the big issue but as mentioned 2013 is better than 2008 2010 era . Just don't pay too much for one as they not worth a lot due to these issues on used market plus you want reserve funds for potential issues if arise . Maintenance wise plenty oil changes, if doing 18K a year I would say 3 oil changes a year be good ( not too pricey if can do that yourself, quality oil and filters is a must) Other thing you can do is use likes of millers diesel fuel treatment that improves the burn and cleans/lubricates injectors . Just don't expect 300K from engines like the old boxer 2.0 petrols from late 90's early 2000's been know to do, all newer cars are lower part quality and even japan cars not as reliable these days due to this .

If you not doing the mileage get a petrol, the diesel is a PITA between dpf issues, injector learning issues and crank issues.

Sounds good, decent quality matching tyres a good move on awd, amount of people make a fuss about needing awd yet happy with junk types overwhelms me, absolute nightmare get some customers buy good tyres even when wife and kids using car daily :-S Sounds like you happy ...

One would hope old cap not seating correctly as easy fix for you, lot of people overlook cap and when pressure test the cap replaced with tester and often ignored . OEM caps generally durable, aftermarket tends be junky so if was aftermarket wouldn't be too surprised ....

Seller probably wrong You got pic of one ... Yours is facelift and think will be abakus 320-2009R (right) and abakus 320-2009L (left) New not cheap but used likely similar shape to yours, no chance getting bulb out and cleaning them up ? is harness plug good order ?

1.3bar cap not going be a cure unless the 0.9bar was actually faulty .

ask the dealer if they know what acceptable current draw at sleep is and what your car actually is (doubt they know as not tested it) You sounding likely got a fault as a 60ah battery last months parked up unused on normal parasitic draw conditions . Consider how many people park up a car at an airport fo few weeks/month and they don't all come back to a flat battery, it not normal working scenario ...

Subaru are bullsh1tt1ng you, 1 or 2 weeks should not result in flat battery . You have a parasitic draw issue probably, alternator, alarm or modules not going sleep mode (constantly going sleep then back on) common suspects . Quite easy diagnose but lot of dealers poor at it as simply use to service work and due to mainly working on newer vehicles they got little experience in odd fault diagnosis thus fob you off ...

Not really practically possible as you will have huge amount issues with a 5eat conversion, what you going do with clutch pedal/gear sensors ? Would all start requiring massive amount mapping, you would have an auto box ecu and how you going add that to the canbus network . euro 6 not a easy swap, the common rail system differs too much so can't bolt the euro 4 stuff to it . The diesel is a known issue engine and simply not worth the bother .

can't conclude much from that . pretty much normal see some film on surface, They don't mix the oil normally unless issue gets severe . If problem persists get a garage who knows what they doing gas sniff it after a run, it the best way we found on these . In early stages of failure and intermittent issue can be hard pull test results in one go so got try a few times .

On the 2.5 you got treat the HG like a service item , not that big a deal caught early .

Trouble is lot of the airlocks you get could be combustion gases that forced through at specific running temp points that effect the sealing ability Can be reason for leaks too as strains older pipes and radiator. Everyone hopes it a leak but continuing coolant issues on the 2.5 tends end up head gasket, they all fail no exceptions even non turbo 2.5 same issue . Main thing is not ignore issue and get to bottom of it in timely manner ...

Best way test these is with gas analyser at the radiator cap, from your remarks of oil film and smell it should conclude issue in seconds . It better than the chemical tests on the subarus with intermittent coolant temp fault . HC don't have to be bad but indeed if head or pistons for example allowing some oil bypass and poorer combustion pressures then gas readings will show it to some extent. Gasket issue on these is normally always external flow and any engine damage is normally more from overheating rather than fluids mixing or burning heavily (low comps and fluids in cylinder easily diagnosed and to what severity) . Trouble is as most hard spot and still run well they get ignored and owners try function around the issue and make it bigger mess ..

Looks normal wear debris to me (see it every day on boxes and diffs), on drain plugs with magnets attached you get what on your rag when wipe them clean or stick finger in around casing at drain point . If oil totally full of metal and got a shiny metal marble streak when stirred then yeh you may got issue. Very very rare have huge amount metal particle without noise or some usability issue . Keep an eye on it and if got doubts get advise from trustworthy mechanic and do quality photos of drained oil and filtered debris .

Can tell nothing from that, pretty normal have a grey powdery paste unless all the oil was that way Would have see the whole drained oil in person to give you a real worthwhile opinion. Have they sieved or run magnet through oil and found any bigger metal fragments rather than that pretty normal surface wear paste in the photo ? If box making no noise and working A1 I wouldn't go jumping the gun but rather drain and check oil again after few thousand miles ...

If you after performance you not really going be type of guy trying achieve million miles from a air filter or even 10% of that lol . Just buy quality dry panel filter suitable for the maf and has half decent filtration and cosworth or ramair both are great products and sensible prices. k&n milk the marketing and hike the price in quite a vulgar way .

cosworth and ramair both quality panel filters . not biggest fan of k&n

Yes any M30 will do BUT be sure have one working remote or pin code supplied with used unit or it useless unless got sigma software program it . With one working fob you be able program your key fobs and set the 4 pin code any decent breaker always sells them with a fob, expect pay more than £30 for workable option .

Seen them fail in various ways, sometimes motor runs but drive failed, sometimes seized, sometimes carbon build up stops it seating fully or opening full range. All of which can be detected by the ecu monitoring and can flag the money light if code criteria match to ecu received sensor/conditions data . Generally new egr only way go, sometimes you can clean them but we only tend do that as a quick fix during diagnosis so owner can carry on like normal until job booked in or part delivered . egr is a consumable product due to harsh job it does, It's true value in emission and environment impact is somewhat overestimated as it has negative effect engine lifespan, mpg and service parts waste during a vehicles life, much like the dpf while making nice numbers at tail pipe under test conditions if review exactly how it achieves that and the negatives it has on reducing mpg/power and increasing parts/service waste over vehicle lifespan it a long way from environment marvel .

The 2.0 n/a Forester normally pretty cheap with only rear struts and front window motors being the normal issues. Newer handle fine but not always cheaper maintain . If you fancy better acceleration you maybe better going back a year to the 2.0 XT SG model and make effort find proper tidy example with impeccable servicing . Plenty about and normaly easier find the XT clean and tidy over naturally asperated models that get used like baby landrovers . I can normally find tidy XT in 2 or 3 months while a SG could be half a year for proper nice one . Reason going 2005 or early 2006 is purely road tax class ...

The egr has inbuilt position reference that part of the logic of how ecu knows it failed, unless parts guy examined a egr or read the fault logic criteria he ain't going know that, pinout and code criteria data will show you exactly how it controlled and monitored by ecu .

2003 to 2007 be donors will find same pump on legacy outback etc . I would want be fairly sure it is pump not just winging part at it on a hunch . check belt tension and check fluid and check rack movement with front end lifted Pumps do go on these so not uncommon one . You'll find a pump easy enough either eBay or contacting couple breakers .