Mr B

look at level sensor bracket arms as these can physically break. Ideally want scanner on that to see actual code for bit of direction and looking at actual levelling data would be fastest way progress the diagnosis if level sensors visually look in order. dealer would know what that is, they only stupid when selling but if that a trade in they would of nailed the value well low on that warning light. I would assume they already done basic check but sometimes these dealers do next to nothing besides hoover and wash it and if do service work many times it almost vandalism as either break things, use wrong fluid type/amount or use lowest quality items ....

That is totally normal function of the cat 1 alarm . When you unlock the car with remote immobilizer also deactivated but if you do not start car within around 60 seconds the immobilizer auto actives again . This is a feature and requirement of cat1 alarm requirements as gives you car some level of protection even if forget lock car . You do not need arm then disarm the alarm, all you do is with key in ignition and turned to run position ( 1 turn further would be starter cranking ) and press the fob button and immobilizer deactivates ((you will likely here the alarm module relays click also if paying attention .. Link below is a M30 info booklet, be sure sort a working 4 digit pin code and get battery for remote, they like £1.20 on eBay for good branded cell Not having a working pin code can be expensive mistake in the future . https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ

My experience of doing not hundreds but well over a hundred 2.5s is most times bottom end within total spec when minimal HG leak and good state of tune. The big killer is when left for months as having bad diagnosis as HG failure hard pick up in early stages then oil degradation and cylinder conditions can lead to bearing failure . Hard driven impreza's always tend be worse for wear when stripped and you even see same crank and cam journal issues on ones with no HG leak as poor tuning or other running, service faults also related to journal wear, bad fuel and timing mapping being the most common followed by **** poor oil service . I do 2.5 rebuilds on individual scenario/engine evaluation as no golden rule, done many gasket only on good example cars diagnosed early by myself and owners took advise do gasket immediately and no problems (and yes my work is guaranteed and I got no interest or benefit of come backs) The belief all bottom ends going be junked by slight coolant leak is not true, most junked by neglect of issue and poor tune state (would hardly ever see same issues bottom end on NA 2.5 block or lightly used turbo) other thing is some builders want best repair option for them not the owner . As I say every time on this you got evaluate engines condition, usage and history and customer needs on individual case basis . Example being a mum using a 80K XT untuned with impeccable service history and early detection of minimal head gasket leak most likely won't need a 3k plus rebuild and top end will be fine. Next one maybe 60K impreza weekend and track day, it mapped running more power guy been 3 shops over slight heating issue for almost year, service history and initial wide band checks, bore scope and sound probes give evidence it going be a full rebuild route only . Biggest issue is owners always slow to deal with HG and why people don't do a HG upgrade as a precaution service point step is beyond me, it a well documented known issue on 2.5 NA and boosted . IF want more professional opinions on 2.5 look at US and Oz experience as they handle these in HUGE numbers .

Yeh they mainly US market . I would look at Nokian I linked or Michelin crossclimate + Myself and few customers run the Nokians and they are a proper quality all weather tyre, Plenty other choices but nokian weatherproof ratings in wet braking and noise hard beat plus it carrying the 3peak snow test rating yet price is sensible .

fourth gen around 2013 for transition to chain . All ealry 2.5s will have head gaskets fail at some point due to gaskets materials used and sealing area stresses of the block, oil used and service points along with usage type and long running faults like missing and fuelling make big difference. Due to boxer design oil sits around HG joint and as contains solvents and corrosives from combustion it slowly attacking the gasket and 2.5 block stresses the HG more. Most I see are around 80 to 120k, caught early or done in advance at high mileage as a service precaution and it not overly costly. NA engines easier deal with generally . 2.5 is nice in forester but as a used reliable low hassle/cost car can be risky as could have hassle diagnosing fault, finding good garage do work & get a bill for as much as paid for the used forester. If buy a 2'.5 be sure price was right and you fully aware repair costs and prepared to deal with it . I see lot of people who not hence why don't recommend .

once checked switch wiring and power earths values (can also ohm test the heater elements) then good way go is used seat, even if strip down you can't repair element only wiring to it and seat cushion switch. As a shop I can't strip them as becomes too costly be viable and no way know if even repairable so replacing seat way to go in cost and turn around .

each seat has pair of elements, your drivers set probably only 1 element working on high heat .

https://www.giga-tyres.co.uk/nokian/weatherproof-suv/215/65-r16/102/h/gi-r-279699ga Nokian one of my favourite all season/weather tyres, great spec .

roughly they come out around 445-450 on kyb new springs do settle a fraction in time and exact measure vary on things as simple as fuel tank level and if checked before or after test drive/settling time . Parts are pretty cheap, buy online (eBay) and get garage do it if you can't, I can do them in an hour without need rush and no problems. the SG is easier than earlier models and generally no bother besides perhaps rear drop links stuffed and need doing but that also small money .

^ indeed should be standard, proper mudguards save lot of damage/corrosion issues down the road. Same as the rear bumper guard, should of been standard on lot of models. realistic pricing make would it easier stomach as these things incredibly low unit cost to supply. They even screw people for further £ on fitting charges too 😮

PPP never touched springs or struts, they did contemplate springs but realised with sls rear struts they have replace struts too making the package too expensive ... failed sls struts can loose good 50mm rear height . this is correct details for measurement, follow that and see where you stand ...

rc6431 will sit about 10mm higher than standard XT range but not bad thing as looks right and allows some loading before below standard height. ra6028 is heavy duty springs more suited if doing towing or carrying lot of rear weight . the kyb excel g struts and rc6431 springs tend be huge improvement on rear body roll. if want more sporty road spring then springcoil.co.uk people speak to, they do custom springs for any scenario and as done lot for forester sg model they can pretty much select spec with no/minimal technical input from you .

Yes, I don't see many humans dying from particulates even from those in high exhaust exposure such as mechanics/fitters/heavy construction crews and to be frank I think we got the numbers to loose while ice caps and polar bears have not plus with ice caps gone we pretty much goosed anyway . Other aspect is the diesel car is an incredibly small factor of global particulate output . I think Volvo's are pretty good, electrical faults tend be biggest issues along with parts bit pricey and not many good specialists. I do own one (XC90 2.4 diesel, wife uses it). I like them, solid build, too many computer modules and I not biggest fan of the haldex awd setup but it been good in snow and farm tracks and fields and overall reliable to date . Hi/Lo on the Subaru is indeed useful and indeed if you choose wisely they damn cheep to run and no hassle. That why I own 3 Foresters and 2 outbacks as I simply don't want be messing around with my own cars or close relatives after dealing with it all day as a business, plus I not a fan of throwing good money away on junk engineering . Keep looking you'll find a nice SH petrol Forester if can wait, may be worth keeping eye on the SG Forester as well as may spot one so good you could live with the lower towing capacity . Good luck ...

That the SH, i'm 50/50 on those, some things better some thing things worse . Out of choice I prefer pre 2002 (SF) foresters, find ones with minimal corrosion and waxoyl them and they last as parts/materials all proper decent . Your main issue is not many petrol SH foresters about which makes it hard going, 2013/2014 big change over to chain.. I can't remember off hand if you the chap who's wife don't like diesel, in real word really not much wrong with good old diesel (don't see construction workers or diesel fitters dying in large numbers)l in good order and pre euro 4 emission diesels superb when consider mpg to emissions and to be real green the vehicles should be judged on overall pollution from assembly to scrap and if you look at that the newer euro 4 onward cars they are an eco disaster with short life span and high amount service parts and materials keep them usable plus most of the modern emission rules thus emission equipment ruined potential mpg so you using more fuel just to make a better test result out tail pipe 😕 Point being one of best options of good durable low corrosion issues awd station wagons is the volvo xc90 .

Yes in my opinion early ones best, up to 2009 still not too bad but it just the modern way, all engineering skill gone into making parts as cheap as possible and no interest in making them last or easy repair, no big money in that lol . Same across all makes not just subaru, new cars are a 5 to 8 year wonder then lot of expensive faults that in most cases beyond economical repair or pushing limits of worthwhile repair thus helping sell another new bit of junk . Keep looking and you will find one .

RAC or other inspections generally a waste of money unless you completely unable do basic checks . Looks like they cut the flange joints out the back boxes to rear y pipe . Patching it up was the cheap option for dealer, going be a job down road for new owner. Stainless rear boxes and y pipe/centre pipe likely be 400 to 500 I expect due to bit extra complexity/parts .

Would imagine exhaust going need further work fairly soon then Just inspect everything2 or 3 times and have at least 2 decent test drives . Your main restriction is limited amount for sale of model you want and as very versatile awd vehicles many get used to these capabilities ...

pictures never tell the whole story but from those I say it don't look scabby with corrosion, does look like scuff indent marks on that chassis rib possibly ground on rock or poor lifting perhaps . What exactly done to exhaust ? I always advise people go on instincts and if not 100% happy with any details walk away . Pretty much all dealers good at hiding/blagging or resolving issues cheap as possible and can have huge margins on price so be diligent on checks and be sure knock a good chunk off price and do expect to possibly need inject 300 to £600 into a vehicle to get it up to scratch if not 100% lucky .

For an SG as an example we charge £350 for kyb excel g (japan made) and kyb springs plus new bump stop and protection boot, heavy duty springs £20 more and also can do custom springs from spring coil to any spec which good for special towing scenarios, small gain or drop in ride height or for slight improvement to handling on an XT . If need strut top mounts that extra but most rear mounts are good and price options between 60 to £100 are available from magnum technology or kyb If you want retain SLS setup then it got be oem tokiko struts and they only available via subaru and new are about £300 each on a good day . kyb works very well on these on ride height, ride quality and decent durable quality .

rear inner arch/turret rust can be bad and indeed sometimes can look perfect but tap them with small hammer or something and you soon know they bad/thin . Forester SG can be bad on inner arch/turrets as the reduced metal thickness in those panels as part of weight reduction changes. They go at seams, strengthening rib directly behind the strut, seat belt anchor point and where joins into sill . The inner sills and body mount area for trailing arms can get scabby too. Rear subframe comes a common failure on older subaru's or ones used in poor conditions and no decent prevention or cleaning . Subframe is easy fix but not cheap if can't do it yourself . Do check front subframes too and front lower wishbones . I see hell of a lot of foresters and outbacks, many 15 to 20 years old and in general they have minimal issues and have pretty easy MOT's . The oem cv boots even ones under cat ( forester same O/S) last well over a decade, good quality replacements (ones made in Japan generally) fit and last much the same and they cheap and easy fit and not going be repeat issue unless using junk parts. Corrosion is about biggest thing can get caught out on and can be hard spot so be thorough and do just look you got tap the panels and dig around muddy clogged seams to know for sure . waxoyl or similar products applied to underbody, inner panels and suspension parts with some thought and care makes huge difference long term . Do also remember rear SLS struts can get fatigued so if see a sagging rear end they be the issue . over all not much worry about if take little time and stick with a nice clean car, we currently got a 2002 2.5 outback at 120K that picked up private local sale for 1K, thing is close to perfect, not a fan of the 2.5 but car that faultless even if had head gaskets needing doing it be worth doing as they such great practical reliable wagons . Fair few good ones out there, just take time and don't be afraid pay little more for real clean care as for sure you get your moneys worth and then some on a proper clean/tidy older subaru .

if both seats not working and on both heat levels then it probably not heating elements or the seat sensor faulty unless one bad seat blowing circuit protection . If seat element faulty or the seat sensor it generally easier/cheaper pick up a used working seat . things to look at are if seat heat switch illuminates as if not the first issue is control side or power. if switches show life then it either seat or wiring (wiring can get damaged if people sticking stuff under seats or bt rear passengers feet)

i see many 2003 to 2006 still clean, no heavy rot . The older sf is harder find no rot rear end but then it 20yrs old .and most had some real use at some point . only plus with newer ones is tow weight .

It's a modification and as removing emission equipment technically illegal . Insurance likely charge you something even if just a policy detail change fee . I would recommend fixing it with oem parts sourced as cheap as can find them and sit back and enjoy it working A1 for another 8 to 10 years .

Get new valves direct from Japan online as makes price more acceptable and your local garage be able fit them easily enough, check air pump function also and that it not full of trapped moisture . legality of removing it is grey area, while over looked by most MOT centres unless obvious bodged mess it can be an issue with insurance cover and leave you with voided insurance after vehicle examination after a more major accident scenario should they want to .