Mr B

mainly car manufacturer pressures but you may want go little higher pending on season and specific use . https://www.nokiantyres.com/innovation/facts-about-tyres/tyre-inflation-pressures/

Whats the ash level . what the pressure readings like . IF can't see anything obvious via ssm do a quick look via generic obd at history or pending codes . The dpf light flashes for error of only 4 reasons ...

coil packs breaking down and movement stresses finished couple of them off them off , visually check them for cracks (fairly common) Many times I had cop's or coil pack or ht leads failing after r&r doing other jobs and they failing on test run . customers never understand as they worked before 😕

yeh would expect see another 20mm on kyb springs and struts paired but you can loose 5 to 10mm pending how take measure and fuel tank level and any boot load will all vary it . Is very straight forward job, good access, even turret top nuts easy quick access via lifting just top trim . assume you knock will be drop links, very common, they cheap and easy, about 25 to£35 a pair for something decent like meyle hd 555 japan or mapco hps range may need cut them off and if you got a 115mm grinder and decent cutting disc it quicker than messing around with messy nut, slice down into nut just over 1/4 diameter and tap nut off with chisel .

assume you looking at power a/t hold switch .

Forester is a good all rounder at potentially low costs . I was under impression actual tow weight not exact legal figure but just easier have insurance and prosecution if police pull you or you in an accident and you above the guideline figures . I think the higher hp engines got higher limits as match the gradient pull off tests but I no expert in towing requirements so you need do some due diligence on that get the facts . XT auto SG's are cheap considering budget you got so you be able pick best market go offer plus have plenty left for good service, decent tyres, minor fixes/extras etc and still be quids in .

Yes so do I, the earlier SF forester was best built era, 2002 to 2006 SG also fairly good but bit more plastic fantastic . I think earlier SF sport or turbo also might be 1800kg but you need confirm that as fact . you lose the low range on turbo . earlier SF ones quite hard find tidy and solid as 20yr old awd station wagons get proper used at some point . I have found more tidy Sport SF forester and XT SG foresters as lot of them tend stay more as family run around rather than a farm runaround . Best clean older foresters have pretty much always been automatics, not sure if you wanting an auto but it does up your chances . Prices are pretty low on these for what they are and general basic parts cheap, easy sourced and more private sales which good .

In over 30 years trade experience I found used car dealers are some of biggest !Removed! I ever come across in a professional business . Ideally you don't want build up any real relationship, I got no interest in any warranty even when buying for customers as I know it pretty much a waste of time and my best approach is always stick to initial plans on what you accept as faults and be prepared put odd minor niggles right yourself . Even my nearest subaru dealer has pushed some junk used and repairs they done and shortcuts awful (I see the work as many turn up in my shop with the new owners and tales of frustration and lies and some sloppy work from fitted poorly to plain parts missing ) I've driven several hundred miles view cars for customers and myself to be shocked at what seeing within 30 seconds and only go after contacting dealers/private owners first, I always state I trade and ask questions on body condition/repair (I know they know a sprayed panel/accident repair as well as i do), interior and engine/gearbox along with confirming owner and service history and I been lied to almost every time . Immaculate order no signs of repair = collision repair to very poor standard and alignment still out 1 owner = 5 owners . engine/transmission good = bottom end knocks and synco issues . Main thing is staying calm and realising this pretty normal if you want proper tidy used car . Subarus like forester legacy and outback get used hard and some abused so fair bit of scruff around and most dealers interest is markup thus scruff with cheap as possible tlc = max profit . Pretty much all my best cars are found private or big dealer trade in and dealer selling back to trade as mileage/age not what they want trade themselves (warranty and finance not possible) . Just don't feel rushed or forced take a car you not happy with, only way I compromise is if price that cheap the faults can be over looked or resolved and have a bargain . If you not happy with car first viewing it only going bug you more if got see it every day 🙂 stay calm and keep looking . good luck .... My main trick these days reduce wasted time when viewing not local is get good images or walk around video and between looking at images closely and vibes on seller from conversion only go if absolute no initial suspect doubts, Anything more local worth you going just build up knowledge and get better at evaluating vehicles condition. the more you see and test drive the better you are at rating the final car you buy and getting accustom to dealer nonsense .

Due to fact you can see overspray under arch also possibly indicates work quite fresh as generally light overspray soon worn off or covered by dirt build up pretty quickly . Every time I view a car with panel repairs it makes me laugh how a dealer will say pretty normal have paint repairs then become expert on picking out the panels yet when I ask this question before physically viewing they not experts and always state looks likely all original 🙂

when you can see how poor the paint finish is on a internet picture it a pretty cheap cheesy repair . Main issue is you don't really know why it done thus it a risk and the price really not reflecting body work state . Your main issues will be future paint issues of cracking peeling oxidising, slight rust if edges not finished well (they not stripped trim to spray properly) I would be looking at panel fit and tyre wear, and steering behaviour on a test drive, lot of cars won't be recorded for smaller prangs with no other party involved as if don't go via insurance and take to small bodyshop it not going be recorded . I wouldn't pay much for example like that, main thing you got do when buying a used car is not give in to haste, keep calm and keep looking or be sure anything less than perfect is bargain price and you prepared except it or get it sorted as needed . From my experience the biggest piles of junk and biggest prices ever seen always been via dealers and man do they lie and waste your time . Decent panel spraying is expensive and none of it matches factory paint for durability so reflect on that before parting with your hard earned .

look at level sensor bracket arms as these can physically break. Ideally want scanner on that to see actual code for bit of direction and looking at actual levelling data would be fastest way progress the diagnosis if level sensors visually look in order. dealer would know what that is, they only stupid when selling but if that a trade in they would of nailed the value well low on that warning light. I would assume they already done basic check but sometimes these dealers do next to nothing besides hoover and wash it and if do service work many times it almost vandalism as either break things, use wrong fluid type/amount or use lowest quality items ....

That is totally normal function of the cat 1 alarm . When you unlock the car with remote immobilizer also deactivated but if you do not start car within around 60 seconds the immobilizer auto actives again . This is a feature and requirement of cat1 alarm requirements as gives you car some level of protection even if forget lock car . You do not need arm then disarm the alarm, all you do is with key in ignition and turned to run position ( 1 turn further would be starter cranking ) and press the fob button and immobilizer deactivates ((you will likely here the alarm module relays click also if paying attention .. Link below is a M30 info booklet, be sure sort a working 4 digit pin code and get battery for remote, they like £1.20 on eBay for good branded cell Not having a working pin code can be expensive mistake in the future . https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ

My experience of doing not hundreds but well over a hundred 2.5s is most times bottom end within total spec when minimal HG leak and good state of tune. The big killer is when left for months as having bad diagnosis as HG failure hard pick up in early stages then oil degradation and cylinder conditions can lead to bearing failure . Hard driven impreza's always tend be worse for wear when stripped and you even see same crank and cam journal issues on ones with no HG leak as poor tuning or other running, service faults also related to journal wear, bad fuel and timing mapping being the most common followed by **** poor oil service . I do 2.5 rebuilds on individual scenario/engine evaluation as no golden rule, done many gasket only on good example cars diagnosed early by myself and owners took advise do gasket immediately and no problems (and yes my work is guaranteed and I got no interest or benefit of come backs) The belief all bottom ends going be junked by slight coolant leak is not true, most junked by neglect of issue and poor tune state (would hardly ever see same issues bottom end on NA 2.5 block or lightly used turbo) other thing is some builders want best repair option for them not the owner . As I say every time on this you got evaluate engines condition, usage and history and customer needs on individual case basis . Example being a mum using a 80K XT untuned with impeccable service history and early detection of minimal head gasket leak most likely won't need a 3k plus rebuild and top end will be fine. Next one maybe 60K impreza weekend and track day, it mapped running more power guy been 3 shops over slight heating issue for almost year, service history and initial wide band checks, bore scope and sound probes give evidence it going be a full rebuild route only . Biggest issue is owners always slow to deal with HG and why people don't do a HG upgrade as a precaution service point step is beyond me, it a well documented known issue on 2.5 NA and boosted . IF want more professional opinions on 2.5 look at US and Oz experience as they handle these in HUGE numbers .

Yeh they mainly US market . I would look at Nokian I linked or Michelin crossclimate + Myself and few customers run the Nokians and they are a proper quality all weather tyre, Plenty other choices but nokian weatherproof ratings in wet braking and noise hard beat plus it carrying the 3peak snow test rating yet price is sensible .

fourth gen around 2013 for transition to chain . All ealry 2.5s will have head gaskets fail at some point due to gaskets materials used and sealing area stresses of the block, oil used and service points along with usage type and long running faults like missing and fuelling make big difference. Due to boxer design oil sits around HG joint and as contains solvents and corrosives from combustion it slowly attacking the gasket and 2.5 block stresses the HG more. Most I see are around 80 to 120k, caught early or done in advance at high mileage as a service precaution and it not overly costly. NA engines easier deal with generally . 2.5 is nice in forester but as a used reliable low hassle/cost car can be risky as could have hassle diagnosing fault, finding good garage do work & get a bill for as much as paid for the used forester. If buy a 2'.5 be sure price was right and you fully aware repair costs and prepared to deal with it . I see lot of people who not hence why don't recommend .

once checked switch wiring and power earths values (can also ohm test the heater elements) then good way go is used seat, even if strip down you can't repair element only wiring to it and seat cushion switch. As a shop I can't strip them as becomes too costly be viable and no way know if even repairable so replacing seat way to go in cost and turn around .

each seat has pair of elements, your drivers set probably only 1 element working on high heat .

https://www.giga-tyres.co.uk/nokian/weatherproof-suv/215/65-r16/102/h/gi-r-279699ga Nokian one of my favourite all season/weather tyres, great spec .

roughly they come out around 445-450 on kyb new springs do settle a fraction in time and exact measure vary on things as simple as fuel tank level and if checked before or after test drive/settling time . Parts are pretty cheap, buy online (eBay) and get garage do it if you can't, I can do them in an hour without need rush and no problems. the SG is easier than earlier models and generally no bother besides perhaps rear drop links stuffed and need doing but that also small money .

^ indeed should be standard, proper mudguards save lot of damage/corrosion issues down the road. Same as the rear bumper guard, should of been standard on lot of models. realistic pricing make would it easier stomach as these things incredibly low unit cost to supply. They even screw people for further £ on fitting charges too 😮

PPP never touched springs or struts, they did contemplate springs but realised with sls rear struts they have replace struts too making the package too expensive ... failed sls struts can loose good 50mm rear height . this is correct details for measurement, follow that and see where you stand ...

rc6431 will sit about 10mm higher than standard XT range but not bad thing as looks right and allows some loading before below standard height. ra6028 is heavy duty springs more suited if doing towing or carrying lot of rear weight . the kyb excel g struts and rc6431 springs tend be huge improvement on rear body roll. if want more sporty road spring then springcoil.co.uk people speak to, they do custom springs for any scenario and as done lot for forester sg model they can pretty much select spec with no/minimal technical input from you .

Yes, I don't see many humans dying from particulates even from those in high exhaust exposure such as mechanics/fitters/heavy construction crews and to be frank I think we got the numbers to loose while ice caps and polar bears have not plus with ice caps gone we pretty much goosed anyway . Other aspect is the diesel car is an incredibly small factor of global particulate output . I think Volvo's are pretty good, electrical faults tend be biggest issues along with parts bit pricey and not many good specialists. I do own one (XC90 2.4 diesel, wife uses it). I like them, solid build, too many computer modules and I not biggest fan of the haldex awd setup but it been good in snow and farm tracks and fields and overall reliable to date . Hi/Lo on the Subaru is indeed useful and indeed if you choose wisely they damn cheep to run and no hassle. That why I own 3 Foresters and 2 outbacks as I simply don't want be messing around with my own cars or close relatives after dealing with it all day as a business, plus I not a fan of throwing good money away on junk engineering . Keep looking you'll find a nice SH petrol Forester if can wait, may be worth keeping eye on the SG Forester as well as may spot one so good you could live with the lower towing capacity . Good luck ...

That the SH, i'm 50/50 on those, some things better some thing things worse . Out of choice I prefer pre 2002 (SF) foresters, find ones with minimal corrosion and waxoyl them and they last as parts/materials all proper decent . Your main issue is not many petrol SH foresters about which makes it hard going, 2013/2014 big change over to chain.. I can't remember off hand if you the chap who's wife don't like diesel, in real word really not much wrong with good old diesel (don't see construction workers or diesel fitters dying in large numbers)l in good order and pre euro 4 emission diesels superb when consider mpg to emissions and to be real green the vehicles should be judged on overall pollution from assembly to scrap and if you look at that the newer euro 4 onward cars they are an eco disaster with short life span and high amount service parts and materials keep them usable plus most of the modern emission rules thus emission equipment ruined potential mpg so you using more fuel just to make a better test result out tail pipe 😕 Point being one of best options of good durable low corrosion issues awd station wagons is the volvo xc90 .