Mr B

you generally find budget tyres wear fast and tend only have better compound on very outer so as wear they perform worse . Blackcircle don't even give brand or show images of budgets tyres they selling . Difference is like £20 a tyre, my advise is spend the extra 15 to £20 for better tyre, more so if doing 4k+ a year and expect have car few years . Budget tyres never end up budget expenditure unless doing very low miles or only keeping car short term ... mis-matched tyre issues is big concerm on awd, we get at least 2 a month with related issues all down to old and new axle pair mix (have an xc90 in last week with failed output spline partly due to new tyres only fitted on front axle :-S ) If your good 2 close to new you can get away with it but if pretty worn the rolling circumference difference stresses the transmission a lot. Mix in manufacturer dimension variations and flex differences and things get worse . Part worns can be good buy but lot of garages/tyre shops won't fit them, we same as technically our liability insurance is voided if not fitting a new tyre . Was couple options of budget/midrange on eBay in other threads, I would wait for a 10 to 20% site wide coupon from eBay (they normally do one december before or after xmas) ...

same bushes used on at least 3 models from 2009 to 2018 I don't see many swaybar D bush issues, drop links common one and make nice clunking noises . What you got realize with modern cars is all engineering skill is in minimal cost and material quality and have no intention of over engineering (spending) for easy 10yr lifespan . Confirm what really causing the rattle before swapping parts, use oem or decent aftermarket .

Good choice, that what we use most followed by 10w40 .. Millers is good and British :-)

yeh normal for sigma cat1 alarm if car don't start you just press fob button while key in ignition and turned on and it turn immobiliser off so can crank car .

^ To be fair with your symptoms I think I too may struggle conclude with irrefutable evidence it head gasket. Early stage HG issues on these can be total swine diagnose 100% to a customer . Thermostats need be oem style as most others do not flow well, doubt this your issue but worth highlighting . My suspicion would be HG on what you said but if overheating minimal and intermittent it hard prove to a customer in solid diagnostic evidence and becomes more a diagnosis based on known repeat failures and experience (all factory 2.5 HG's will fail it just matter of time ...)

Blueprint do all basic service items and pads for a b4, so that could be had online or local factors ... ICP is good too but be careful on non oem with them as they stock some junkier stuff these days in bid compete on pricing .

50K/5yrs is the schedule and they do that easily (same parts in USA do 105K as legal requirement is over 100K for cars sold in USA) The water pump has no need be changed if visually good and bearing physically feels good, the oem pump is superb quality and you likely throwing a better part away than a new replacement unless high end or oem japan part . On higher mileage of 140K plus or track cars ect then a pump can be good idea but low mileage it generally wasteful and a negative benefit if using european pattern parts . It pretty normal only do a belt on first change, second interval more likely need idlers and maybe tensioner if not passing visual and bench tests . We ONLY use Japan oem idlers tensioners, oem dayco or blueprint belts .

Wax type spray, the waxoil does work but you need good aplicator and experience helps. Bilt hamber is good and easier for DIY user the diy aplicators decent As above, this no time of year for it, hot summer the best as stuff creeps right into cracks and seems with capillary action and it sprays far neater/cleaner on bone dry car in hotter temps.

Just buy the end joints/boots as needed, all you need do is count the splines to match them, same joints used on most models and easy source . Blueprint or solidauto do good boots, bleprint do joints but not cheapest but quality good, plenty options on eBay, also ICP should do them and they will do SOC discount . Replacing whole shafts not a great idea and the full aftermarket shafts poor quality and can have balance issues (vibration), we only ever rebuild shafts for subarus .

👍 one of better options for lowish cost, good move on full set . Will pay you back in less agro . One of hardest things I got push customers is decent full set of tyres, pointless having awd and !Removed! tyres and if like family safety then it small money well spent .

Cheap tyres on a turbo awd never a great concept, If intend keep car for more than couple years buy half decent tyres as UK weather and roads needs it . The other issue is rolling circumference difference of old and new and brand mix tyres winds the diffs up and stresses transmission and drive train massively, also the differing grip levels can create handling issues .Plus with miss match tyres you can never rotate tyres correctly so wear uneven and points above become bigger issue . I can understand not wanting pay 400 to 500 but you need spend around 50 to70 a corner. ebay can make tyres cheap if hold out for a ebay 10 or 20% coupon code. Hankook kinergy 4s H740 another pretty decent option at mid level cost . The Maxxis all seasons I linked in other thread pretty nice for lowish cost . The alfamotors I linked to have good euro ratings and are V rated and very cheap if price point needed . Never cheap out too much on tyres, brakes or suspension parts in general as quality of some of the stuff in the market today is frightening .also realise your value and family safety value ... choose wisely .

eBay for diff, search for forester turbo breaking as well, average price is probably 100 + - 20, can be found cheap but never when want it or never local . https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=forester+turbo+rear+diff&_sacat=0 Mixing tyres on awd is bad idea ( best way killing transmission and running gear or the family) If other 2 tyres not close to new you need a full set and sell the part worns . this is about as cheap as can go for tyres, would buy better if can though as cheap tyres never last well thus not that cheap in long term . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-3-4-x-215-60R16-93V-ALFAMOTORS-DK558-NEW-QUALITY-TYRES-LOW-PRICE-BUDGET/223115535260

Genuine Subaru Forester Rear Left Hand (LH, Nearside, Passenger Side) Shock/Strut SLS Self Levelling Suspension 20360SA111 Removed from a 2006 Subaru Forester 2.0 X SG Should fit 2003 to 2008 SG Forester models (supersedes 20360SA110, compatible to 20360SA112 & 20360SA113) . Compare images to your vehicle Shock before buying . Fitting with new springs to both sides probably advisable for best results (Kilen do SLS springs) was new unit 6yrs ago as replaced by subaru dealer under used vehicle warranty . No leaks and ride height good . other side failed and salvaged this good one. Ideal cheap fix if your nearside failed and sagging/leaking fluid (mot failure) These cost £340 +vat from Subaru parts dealer . Get your SLS suspension fixed for bargain price and keep it original quality SLS setup . shipping be courier . 7KG large parcel (2 to 4 working days) £49 inc shipping UK mainland (payment via paypal)

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Once sills and arches got pretty bad rust it does get hard/spendy put it right to a good standard . pretty tidy SF can be had around 1K mark, none are going be perfect at almost 20yrs old but subframe not too hard but bit spendy potentially and rear shocks/springs easy and cheap & all worth doing on a tidy shell .Keep an eye out as well worth having decent one and your current one be good farm beater/spares donor .

maxxis AP2 all season .

If the rot too bad get it done and keep using it, Most have subframe rot at that age, as long rear arches, sill ends and rear trail arms body mount good rest a pretty easy fix . Hard find clean manual 99/2000 Foresters, I'm looking all the time for 2000 all weather model in silver, green or dark blue . clutches on the diesel fozzy is junk :-/

Really wouldn't bother with that halfords stuff, better off with likes of toptul premier and picking best of lines from likes of welzh werkzueg, britool halmark ect . By the rules you do need a receipt and they don't cover moving parts in the terms so can be bother if staff not helpful . Life warranty generally not worth a lot on basic hand tools, companies drop line or kicking out crap by time you need an exchange .

quality pistons but pay attention to comp ratio with the group n spec as offsets piston 1mm up bore over standard .

ADS74223 ! compare visually and measures length/width length 110.4mm width 37.5 thickness 13.8

Only thing happen as turbo working near it's max is efficiency down thus charge temps higher with low density . If charge temps was ridiculously high you will have det and piston issues pretty fast . Exactly when your overheat occur, always under heavy throttle and boost, cruising, in traffic ??? You best just being super thorough with hunting leaks, fitting new stat, testing flow and system pressure holding and if can't find fault give it little time until can . Plug colours/deposits give you good idea on how it running and differing look indicates potential likely cylinder with issue/linked to issue . Will need a trained eye unless severe plug colouration/deposits . 3 things I see most for overheating is airlocks/small leaks and 'new' low quality thermostats and head gaskets, on the 2.5 roughly 8 out of 10 seem conclude as head gaskets .

As stated few times headgasket tests means very little on these . Thermostat wants checking for function and if decide replace it get oem or top quality as cheaper ones probably worse than old . Want check radiator flow and cooling flow in general . Want be sure coolant system got no leaks and holds pressure correctly . My suspicion is early stage HG issue but could never diagnose it to a customer without more evidence .

That good, normally is bent switch after garage been working in engine bay, we had a few in after been a halfords garage or mot ect . I would assume 6th gear not related to them working on car, seems highly unlikely it would be to me ...

Doesn't show bonnet on dash, from your test sounds fairly unlikely it switch which shame . Wondering if some wiring point been stressed during work they done and the alarm and gear indicator fault all part of it ! Would be wise talk with garage and do good visual inspection on all wiring/electrical in areas they been working .

I would imagine garage mechanic bent/moved the bonnet sensor switch when working in engine bay, the beeps are warning a door boot or bonnet ajar . I would guess gear indication separate issue and probably not related !