Mr B

Euro 5 is potentially better but they still not a great buy unless do lot of miles & longer journeys . If you doing lot of short trip driving modern diesels are useless & not cost effective due to service & maintenance costs being high . Lots of problems are possible and they all super expensive . Emissions have killed the diesel reliability, we have an old pug 206 hdi90 before the dpf days and that close to 60mpg & never been a bother in 12 years. If it had been dpf diesel would of been scrap by now with our constant short trip use. If want try the diesel go for it if like it but do research on the subaru EE diesel & also check out car well including extended test drives on B roads, also worth getting a diagnostics readout of dpf regen & current soot levels . Injectors, heater plugs, dmf/clutches, self reprograminng mode are all known common issues which can really strain an owner mentally & financially so have some paracetamol & spare £1,000+ on hand .I personally will not buy any modern diesel with dpf system as they are a ridiculous concept . search diesel crank, glow plugs, heater plugs on here for more reading ...

I would suggest stick with standard if look good, the front bush could be swapped to a poly bush but rear tends be best left if just road use . New Moog or 555-Japan balljoints would be good & droplinks (Meyle HD) if ones on it look old, parts are pretty cheap and those brand items are tough ... Job jobbed & won't need touching in years .

as for exhaust review how solid it is as may have some life left, pipes can look real scabby but still last couple years+ if solid ! Best option on these is get a section made at a local longlife or powerflow centrer. It will be stainless, built to spec & quite affordable generally ( centre section quite cheap knock up )

Best bet is used alloy arms off the jdm forester . They don't rot & are much more rigid & less unsprung weight too which all good ... Impreza newage fit and can also pinch alloy ones off sti..2,,0 & 2.5 same ... Can't buy pattern steel arms for SG, plenty for old SF at about £55 each new but they don't rot like the later ones lol . We source used steel and alloy, alloy being best match for a decent xt ... Here's a set on ebay at potentially VERY sensible money > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Forester-XT-Turbo02-05-Impreza-Alloy-wishbones-lower-arms-wrx-sti-/391559843471 link to another thread on subject here >

Lot of variation/opinion in run in techniques, we run mineral for 600 miles max. after initial crank to prime oil system we start car & let idle and check for leaks & top up coolant as required, once that passed checks we raise revs on & off to about 2,000rpm until up to temp. then take it on road drive for about 25-30 miles on b road on and of throttle driving up to 3.250rpm max and light boost only keep eyeon oil pressures & log readings. Back to shop oil is drained/checked for debris and everything else visually checked, filter removed & check for metal debris, after this it run for 150 to 200 miles with similar style driving but more revs 4,250 and bit more boost, change oil again and run for around 400miles using more agressive as each 100 miles pass. if you don't push it a bit you never will get good ring bedding on all side of the bore, if you don't rev it to almost read line you also never get full stretched sweep of bore. If you see how they bed in engines in dyno cells most owners would faint. We built a sr20det for a hill climb car, owner went to dyno cell for run in and power run & I was invited for the show. they run it in in about 75minutes using a run-in dyno procedure gradually increasing stress & bringing revs on and off. was whipping it right off red line in last 20 minutes, quite frightening to watch :-) engine good & been used hill climbing for over 3 years now. With modern tolerances real long run in not needed, most ring bedding is done in early miles so if to soft you don't make most of it .

Yep that a sensible viscosity & spec ester oil at sensible price too . 5L around £30 to £34 pending on discounts . ej25 can be hard work lol ... al be worth when rumbling right ;-)

^ yep up to temp & monitor oil pressure & leaks before road bedding in . want get it on RR ideally to see all healthy, at minimum want a good wideband and see afr's are good . Hope goes sweet . if lucky won't of cost too much (& you got rid of the clay pistons :-P ) & to be honest most people with a used 2,5 going have serious engine wrench work of some level :-D we probably done more 2.5 engine builds/part builds in last 8yrs or so than all 2.0 2.2 & 3.0 in 16 years ...

Yeh any top brand ester based full synthetic would be good, 5w40 10w40 10w50 .. Give it run in and flush at least twice on mineral, don't be to soft on it or rings don't bed in before bores glazing .

For initial break in you want use a mineral oil. Rings will not bed in on a full synthetic, Were bores cross hatch honed. Get 2 or 3 oil filters and dump oil after first 100 miles and check for unwanted debris, cut filter open too .

SFSM > http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/ Make sure cleaned block proper & check the block restrictor gallery to head EXTRA carefully. Also check cams & caps on sourced heads plus all valve collets look seated correct & valve ports for cracks & seats for condition.

XV is a looker, well toyed out & practical, not overly spacious but better than a saloon. supercharge it and add some chassis bracing, brake upgrade & you have something interesting & different. Shame they didn't do a 2.2l (2.2 engine was great compared to 2.5 series) as the 2l is a bit weak for awd suv, 2.2 would of been nice blown either by tc or sc .

You can leave it as is You could pull plug from mainbrain just in case fault has any parasitic power drain . It no harder remove other wires really, just case of trace them through & rejoin originals when been a cut splice & disconnect & insulate ones that been standard splice . big chunk of wiring is what goes to siren, ultrasonics & keypad, pull all that out & not huge amount left - door switch feed, bonnet switch, central locking trigger, acc ignition trigger, indicator feed trigger left&right, power, earth . We don't remove many as can fix most issues quickly for £60 to £100 with spare used system parts or mainboard relay swap or siren battery refresh .

Won't do any harm if simply cut & isolate power to mainbrain but quite easy (little bit time consuming do neatly) follow wiring from main brain & disconnect everything, pulling wiring, sensors, siren, bonnet switch, keypad .

Good job ... That all you need do get it running & usable ... You either look at it further in terms of checking power to main alarm brain & board inside & either source another used alarm in uk (breakers sell them as set with a fob or pin code so can code your key fobs to it) or completely remove it & go without or install different make perhaps ! if you search on here for M30 alarm or alarm problems you should find a few posts I done on the M30 inc instructions on reprogramming keys & relay faults in main brain . least you got the rumble back :-)

If it the Subaru sigma system it very easy remove or bypass or repair using second hand alarm units plugged in and programmed to your fobs. Confirm alarm type. Pic of remote and sensors on car (you have keypad ?) Also supply fault details , do doors unlock/lock via fob , dash lights on when ignition on etc ....

Nokian WR A4 Vredestein Wintrac Xtreme S Michelin alpin A4 For performance car doing high miles in wet & cold climates more than ice/snow I would be Nokian wr a4 or michelin alpin a4 . you'll get your moneys worth & if store sensibly during summer will last few years. For lesser performance subarus some good options from hankook kumho & even star performer winter-suv are good (tested those on sf forester over winter) for low cost option .

One reason why I prefer standard bolts over standard size studs when not going silly on build, basically if keep standard rods we also build with standard bolts & good smooth finish on block & head faces you should be able rework to larger head fittings and hopefully not at your expense, would imagine if company in a transition during your build things might of been careless ! Is bad situation on a 6k rebuild especially close to standard tune one . fingers crossed you not out of pocket but I expect it won't be easy resolve with company as most these tuners sellout/setiup new due to debts & court cases under old business .

Yeh they are good but not really need if not funding a big hp build. cosworth are good and if could get a price same as savage would be worth it otherwise cometic would be fine, ICP do cometic individual or as part of complete head seal/gasket set (about £220 for set, £90 pair of head-gaskets) they good quality viton coated embossed mls gaskets. Standard head bolts are fine for standard & low tune and as they not excessive stretch torque to yeild can be reused if pass inspection. Lot of myths on fine thread no good but reason they use fine thread is it doesn't work loose easily, also fine thread creates more load for same torque over a coarse thread so something be aware of when choosing fastener spec & torque. Proper fitted oem bolts on quality smooth finished heads/block work well,arp stud set around £175 and does allow more clamping torque over standard but not a lot & stud length in block is not best . rcm do some good stud kits when going serious, if going do studs do 12mm - RCM 14/12mm studs get my vote, good design but not cheap and needs block machining. If you not aiming go full out don't waste money on expensive HG or head studs, use it towards good forge pistons & good machine work & quality gaskets. No point spending £160 on head gaskets good for 600hp but running standard rods. Balance all parts so budget evenly spread giving balanced quality/power handling & keeping you well within the budget .

As he only wants standard power or close to & budget tight I can't see him wanting go rods. Does make sense do it all in one hit when can & aiming well into 400s, ej25 rods & lower oiling are not the worst produced & with no max rpm increase they will handle 400+, biggest load on rod is not from combustion hp but from directional load at bottom of stroke, lighter pistons & sensible rpm keeps loads sensible . Pistons on other hand are real gamble even at light tuning .

Get your heads reviewed for line honing and surface refinishing . You going spend £100 on rings so it only £350 more for forge pistons complete with new rings & pins too. Rods fine if staying stock or close to . want be sure bores A1 or will need oversize anyway, standard cast crack easy even with minimal det so forged pistons is good investment at any build level.

most of those marks will be impact damage from debris as piston cycling, can ruin a good head too ... Set of forged good way go & not overly costly, standards if A1 & bore A1 can be fine for budget standard build (only saving potentially£350) but good RR check & breather improvement would be a must . Lean running heat & det soon kills 1st cast piston ringland .

cometic gaskets are also very good value for standard rebuild, rubber coated & better stopper design in recent years. most of your regular mentioned parts outlets deal/stock cometic head sets & block sets.. I also see new ej257 short blocks are available reduced at 1,750 ...

mix the sti intercooler with better thermal shield & controlled water injection & you have a very capable tmic . Controlled WI systems are superb bits of kit . Front mounts are indeed the common package but don't overlook all choices & balance parts to your builds requirement .

ej20 can be sleeved that size but it not common route due to cost & hassle over sourcing a ej257 short block . Would be concerned on what getting as don't seem know too much so how good are the pistons ! If stay cheap say £150 they might be worth a gamble, you got add new rings to cost, I would get some good images of skirts & crowns & image with measures too .If in doubt or bids go high go new as not worth messing about for couple hundred quid .

Injectors themselves not hard but whole system takes a little while as has water tank & pump plus controller, wiring & control switch/water level indicator.