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supermonkeyballs

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Everything posted by supermonkeyballs

  1. supermonkeyballs
    Guys, after emailing every custom exhaust company in Cornwall and Devon I think I have a way forward. I was however wondering if anyone can recommended brands of custom made exhausts (parts) which they have a good knowledge of. I ask this as I know what I'm going to make now, however, I have read loads of threads on here and several different brands have been mentioned. I have the unequal headers sorted, however can anyone recommend a decent high flow cat brand? I have seen Magnaflow high flow cats at a very decent price (200 CPI). Milltek don't seem to have a high flow cat which isn't build into a down pipe so sadly is a no go. Should I be considering any other brands? Secondly can anyone recommended a decent back box, as ATM I have a prodrive on it. I'm going for offensive noise if I'm honest so any thoughts again would be greatly received, I'm going to do a full write up soon as its fitted which will hopefully aid people in the future attempting the R-Sport unequal header pathway. Regards, Rich.
  2. supermonkeyballs
    Interesting thanks for taking the time to comment, I was looking at the a pair of Four pots from an STI/WRX and a pair of Two pots WRX/STi (both on ebay) as a direct replacement but now I'm wondering if making the change will achieve anything. How much was the god speed kit? Thanks again for replying.
  3. supermonkeyballs
    I have emailed them already buddy and I'm awaiting a reply. I'm a big believer in admin so to speak, and hopefully that will show up with a reply, thanks for taking the time to reply to me. I appricate it. As for Plymouth it's not super far. I will give then a Google search now. Regards, Rich
  4. supermonkeyballs
    Thank you for your thoughts. I'm of the opinion that they may need looking at because even the simplest of braking feels fade like. Even when cold and no other braking has occurred But then I also drive serval other cars and I'm worried that I may be expecting too much from them. I do like the idea of a brake upgrade I'm just worried that won't fit. Regards.
  5. supermonkeyballs
    Is it me or are the brakes on the hawkeye 160bhp non turbo terrible? I literally feel they have zero stopping power. Now I'm aware clearly fluid, tryes, pads, discs all play a part in this however are they known for being a poor braking system on the hawkeye. Or is it my modle GD9 being a non turbo all having poor brakes. My classic WRX I had previously seemed to have a far greater stopping power. I have been looking at the GD9 brakes avaliable and looking at ebay it would appear STI WRX four pots and 2 pot calipers front and rears fit. Is this the case? If anyone has upgraded a non turbo braking system before any information would be greatly appricated. And I have looked already at the disc sizes for both systems (non turbo and wrx sti) they appear in my modle year to both be 266 and 277. Again any knowledge would be greatly appricated. Regards. Rich
  6. supermonkeyballs
    Jay thanks for taking the time to reply buddy, I hear what you're saying about back pressure, it could indeed be a problem in the NA engine, and I also hear what you're saying about back pressure post turbine in turbos, plus with hot and cold the pressure difference is always going to provide a good back pressure because that is a how a turbo functions, its always going to be greater than ambient, my thoughts to combat this thought was to just use a performance cat whilst removing all other flow bottlenecks? Any thoughts on that? I will admit I'm not completely in the dark here in relation to such things, as I have six motors or various BHPs but I have to admit I have never placed an unequal header before on an engine which has been fundamentally designed to run with an equal header length on it. Scary times indeed. My ideal currently is that standard equal headers on the car currently has both the AFR and 02 sensor living in the header area (as that's where the first cat lives also), the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) sensor lives there (before the cat), then its the first Cat and then the 02 sensor (known as the Lambda) after the cat, this is so the car knows what products its pumping out to air. This is where potentially things will get messed up in relation to fuel and unburnt products remaining in the camber (if the back pressure isn't scavenging that correctly) for it to all exit as it currently does with the equal headers. My aim is to fit a unequal header, with the AFR in it still as before (before the cat), then a high flow cat (to ensure flow is still keeping things moving) and then as previously (and as it should be), have the oxygen sensor just after the high flow cat. This should in my brain mean I don't need a remap, or to delete anything from the ECU, (I stress in my brain that this works in theory). Any thoughts? Thanks for your time man. Regards, Rich.
  7. supermonkeyballs
    Team after selling my impreza back in 2015 I have returned to the fold. I now have an R sport 2.0L non turbo hawkeye model year 07. It sadly curentnly only has an equal manifold on it, I have the parts in mind to change this situation, however I was wondering if anyone can recommend a decent custom exhaust fitter within Cornwall or Devon. I'm aware of the problem adding an unequal header can cause as I don't want to throw any ECU lights up so it may also need a remap. Any advice would be great fully received. Regards Rich.
  8. supermonkeyballs
    Stanton its been a journey with that car lets put it that way. I knew it was loud when I brought it but I didn't think it was decat, plus it was low so it was hard getting my noise under it. I should of spotted the blanked O2 sensor but to be fair I would of thought it would of been further back on the pipe. It also to my horror once on ramps back home in Cornwall had had the springs cut to lower it instead of lowering springs, and one of the cut edges of the spring had punctured the cup in sits in, so its had new suspension and its also now has a cat. I also had alarm issues which I have now rewired. Now today this 3 bolt issue, but as mentioned 39p later and its all sorted. It just seems to off been run a bit on a shoe string at some point but Im slowly bringing it up to a standard it should be. I have no idea about the remap mate, I didnt have a great deal of paper work with it, what makers you think its been remapped then, as you mentioned you dont know how its running with out it??? is that a factual point that it shouldnt run with out an O2 sensor in it??? And yes for now things are at least quieter (well no doctors drill noise anymore) :)
  9. supermonkeyballs
    Savage, not to blow smoke up your bum but you were bang on with what you said! Me and my brother got about the car today and firstly removed the top inter cooler, upon doing this and turning the inter-cooler upside down I found that some Muppet at some point in time thought it would be wise to only have 3 bolts underneath it. The Top Main Inter Cooler should of have four underneath (the four bolts job is to create a seal between the two metal connectors which hold the black Y piece in place). Clearly it should of had four there, plus whoever it was had thought that by shifting both gaskets to the one side, it would mean it wouldn't need a bolt (two bolts per holder) to make up the space in the gap which was created by having a bolt missing. How some people cut corners on what was a 39p bolt is beyond me but after a new bolt being fitted and both gaskets now being in place and sealed as they should of been, the road test showed that the noise is completely gone and everything is running as it should do. I will add I looked at some videos about MAP Sensors, Maff Sensors and O2 Sensors and I actually have to admit that now I know what I'm looking for that my lambda O2 Oxygen Sensor is actually missing. Well its been blanked off and removed, which going along with the fact that the car was de-catted when I first got it, it all makes sense. So now I need to get a new sensor and clear the fault codes and go from there. Thanks everyone for there help. The noise eventually only cost 39p to fix, which has to be a result :) Thanks again Richie
  10. supermonkeyballs
    Thanks Stanton, I will have to check that tomorrow now as lights fading. I take it you don't know anything about the 23 Code? Air flow mass meter? Either way thanks for the advice. Richie.
  11. supermonkeyballs
    Thank you. Yes its from the film Gladiator, I'm a big fan of the film :) Just hope I can get the turbo issue sorted. Thanks for taking the time to say Hello. Richie.
  12. supermonkeyballs
    P.S I'm not running a front mounted inter cooler ;)
  13. supermonkeyballs
    Right I have fault read the ECU using the green and black connectors and I have the following codes. A No 23 which is a Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit. A No 32, which could be one of 3 (PSB). 32 A/F Sensor #1 System 32 A/F Sensor #2 System 32 Oxygen Sensor Either way its safe to say it has an air flow problem. As for the turbo I drove the car and I tried breaking on the clutch, using the engine to slow down and what I have noticed is that upon dump (dipping the clutch) I can keep the Revs at roughly the same level whilst decelerating the engine on the clutch, then re-engaging the gear, if done quickly the car will be in gear at pretty much the same gearing and speed as previously just for that couple of seconds with no noise, because the dump has released the pressure and stopped the turbo spinning/spooling by dipping the clutch, after two to three seconds (which I think is enough time for re-pressurization) and the turbo to re-spin/re-spool the noise is back, so I think its the turbo. or something connected to the turbo, I have checked all the connecting pipes and have tightened things that looked loose but I found nothing to obvious. What I'm wondering now is how grand in the scheme of things the Mass flow air meter is or these A/F Sensors or the Oxygen Sensor, will that cause adverse wear on the turbo. Clearly I need to get the air flow problem sorted and also, somehow get the turbo sorted. What I have also seen is someone at some point has used sealant instead of a gasket on the turbo. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  14. supermonkeyballs
    Right just found a how to guild on here (that shows me not to take peoples word for things about what I can and cant do), so thanks for the point out about the fault reading, I will get on this right now as she's sat out side and I miss driving her. Will post my findings. Thanks again. Richie
  15. supermonkeyballs
    Right firstly thank you for the comments, secondly I didn't know you could plug in the connectors under the dash??? I have fault read an old Vauxhall Cav GSI red top before using a paper clip and it flashed lights which related to what the code/problem was, I take it this can be done on my WRX STI??? I was under the illusion that it had to be plugged into a special diagnostics machine as the local garage don't have the right connection for the ECU to be read (apparently). From this I gather I can read it myself? and I haven't thought about trying the engine/clutch to brake/slow down the car (whilst in gear), that would indeed show if its the transmission or not. Is boost leakage going to be hoes alone or a magnitude or checks??? Sorry for all the questions.
  16. supermonkeyballs
    Just wanted to Say Hello to all. Im from the South West (Cornwall) and a proud owner of a first generation WRX STI Impreza UK version on a 97 plate ®. I have posted an issue I have in the general chit chat forum but for now I look forward to being part of the group. I will add the friendliness I receive from other Scooby owners has been really refreshing whilst out driving around, to start with I was a little shocked by it but it would appear owning the car really is like being part of a club already, with most owners waving to each other, this may just be a Cornish thing but still. On that note, travel safely everyone and keep smiling. Richie.
  17. supermonkeyballs
    Firstly I apologise if this is in the wrong section, I did see others asking for the knowledge of the group here hence my post location but I am new to the forum and I don't really have many other places to turn. I can move the post if its in the wrong place but anyone's help/knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Now I should add I have tried reading up on the problem else where and I am at a point of either thinking its transmission related or turbo related, the local garage are stumped as well but they aren't scooby specialists and due to my location in the county it may have to go to Plymouth but I am worried about the drive up there because of distance, however I don't have a great knowledge of turbo cars, nor 4 wheel drive transmission systems. I'm not a complete novice either with most things maniacal and have changed complete engines and gear boxes in the past but this has me a bit stumped, I should add that I was a BMW man from the age of 19 and in January this year I saw the light so to speak :). Now my problem is with my first generation Subaru Impreza 2.0L (1997 UK) has this very strange noise whilst the engine is under load and only when under load, its fine at low speeds,l no noise and out of gear the noise stops straight away, so soon as you pass 30 MPH it starts and I can get the car to 70 with this noise whirring away quite high then as soon as I engage the clutch to disengage the gear, the turbo dunps and the noise stops, so its not brake related, nor steering and I lean away from transmission because its aright in gear at lower speeds, but then the car is under far less load at lower speeds to do things, that being said, me and four wheel drive cars don't have a lot of experience. The noise itself only appears above say 30 MPH and the more the load on the engine the higher the pitch of the noise. I will add I have had the clocks off and driven around with out them in place and still the noise was there as the noise itself sounds and feels like its bang in front of me when I drive, like in the dash board speedo area, it could of course be in the engine bay but I cant stick someone in there and drive around with them on the bonnet. I also blanked/blocked off the boost gauge breather pipe as I then thought it was my piping to the boost gauge in my alpha post but I still have this noise when the boost gauge is disconnected. I also cleaned the DV out which was stinking dirty inside but I still have the noise. Its like a whirring noise, like a doctors drill, it increases under load in tone. I'm not wanting to drive her to much at the moment but I took it out last night to get a good description in my head of what to write here today and after 30 miles it got louder, and more persistent, so it may be heat related, like the car has got hotter and then the noise increased, became more constant. I will add, prior to the noise, on rare occasions on the dual cartridge way hills at speeds of say 80-90 mph before this noise began I used to get an ECU light indication warning come up, (RED on the dash) this would only happen when if I was going up hill but not punching though the gears, like at a constant speed up the hill, sat at 80, the ECU red light would indicate, the first time this happened I stopped straight away, (along with my heart) and it cleared off with the engine being turned off, its happened more and more now with this noise happening (I have to go over 70-80MPH to get it up) but every time it does it will clear with the engine being turned off. I have also videoed the problem which can be watched here on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-9KnWpZh5M&list=UUqlunONtDQFehNV8-4oxqAg video titeled = WRX STI First Generation engine noise whilst under load. Video uploaded for purpose of diagnostics. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again Richie.
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