Scoobyghost

Welcome to the club. Lovely little collection you have there.

Yeah, I understand that. I was curious what originally happened and see the story unfold from there.

For tapatalk you hit the button on the left of the screen, circle with an up arrow. Select the paperclip and find the picture you want to upload. One issue I've found is that tapatalk or the forum restricts the size of the photo you can post. So far none of the pictures I've taken have been small enough. I have to crop them down.

What was the cause?

Has the wall been defeated?

Even if the flywheel had stripped the starter should still whirr. Unless the starter is the issue and the bang was it somehow being blown.

Don't be put off by mileage. Lots of us are 150k+ going strong. A well looked after Scooby will go and go. I'm just hitting 169k miles on a UK classic turbo 2000.

He wanted one sugar and you gave him two?

From my understanding the dipstick is meant to read full from a cold start and overnight after its all drained down. Can you ask them how much oil they put in and try to find the capacity of your engine oil?

Letting it warm up sat still at least gets the engine warm. You wouldnt leave it sat till it's fully up to temp so a steady drive is always needed. Water pump and oil pump will get the heat circulating whether it's moving or not.

Welcome to the club.

Echo what mica has said. Don't be phased by mileage either. I bought mine at 158k miles and now on 169k no major issues. I do have fsh which always helps.

In the description it says removes both cats. Classics only have one. What's the opening on turbo side? Is it bellmouthed?

Have you looked into a reset and refund?

What size is it? Looks 3" reducing to 2.5". What type of opening at the turbo side? Curiosity is getting to me

0.9bar for classics. Not sure about later models or ppp type add ons. I'm at peak of 1.4bar with map.

Today I have learnt a lesson...[emoji7]

I think it was boosting. From what I gather he got 1.2bar but wanted 1.7bar.

http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/16463-H&S-decat-3"-2.5"-Classic-fitment

There was a Haywood and Scott decat pipe for a classic for sale on here. I'll find the link. Was £50

Welcome to the club!

The fuel plays a part too. Lower octane is more prone to producing detonation(knock). Again the mapper won't push the engine far enough to constsntly knock and regard the timing. Fuel can contribute anywhere up 10-15hp

Air to fuel ratio. If the fuel pump couldn't keep up the mapper won't push the turbo at the risk of running the engine lean. Has it been decatted?

Also, what fuel was it on?

Did you see the afr? That could be why the mapper wouldn't push it. What supporting mods do you have?