Jay762

Is there free play / resistance with the clutch fork that the slave piston pushes against?

😄 not you make the paint, companies will make the paint up according to the code you supply and then send it to you in either a rattle can or tin for you to use at home

Wotcha and welcome - You can get paint made up to use at home as you have the code

Not heard of this myself although having wind deflectors on the windows is quite a common aftermarket addition on imprezas - Couldn't get on with them personally as I found they restricted my vision going around right corners / islands

Is it these? https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=14770&cat=96&sub=183&sec=421&var=85&dc=0&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart=

Sounds like a good approach 👍

Result - good for many more miles

It depends on what you are looking for, ICP do a lot of stuff particularly OEM, Roger clark do high end engine bits? Whats on your mind?

The 2008 impreza is 190Nm so you should be fine with 220nm

Wotcha and welcome !!

Great thread - very interesting, did you consider an EMTRON ECU of just go straight for the HALTECH?

Thanks - starting to get some traction now 🙂

I cannot speak for the Garanville but I have had no issues with the ferroslip against the rubber surrounding the pistons when used on the back of the brake pads

Like the idea of supporting British manufacturer when possible and it is also cheaper than the ferroslip 🙂

As mentioned already a coil is a really simple device with an input and an output plus a small amount of resistance in the middle. teh only coil failures I have experienced over the years has been down to corrosion of the connections normally at the spark plug end and have been fixed by either a trim and recrimp or a clean with electrode cleaner. Do you have a multimeter as you could check the coils themselves to see if they have indeed failed although it means 12v with a higher than normal current would have had to pass through to physically overheat and melt the coil wire

Not seen this before - just purchased a can so I can do a comparison

If you bought it as an investment and occasional enjoyment steer clear of the lower Ron high Ethanol content fuels, you dont want those sat in your tank. Go for higher ron and consider adding a fuel stabiliser

Many opinions on this one - like oil use. I have always used 99ron particularly vPower. I use it in NA bikes, cars and turbo cars. I found it gave slightly better MPG and the engines ran smoother. I also (and this may be placebo / marketing BS) like the idea of the cleaners they put in to keep the system clean. Given the recent uplift in ethanol content I would suggest you run a higher Ron with a lower E content.

It makes no difference - A key indicator is if you increase speed slightly and the cyclic clunking increases, reduce speed and the clunking slows down as well

As mentioned - sounds like a cv joint to me - go into a car park and put your car on full lock, drive slowly forwards and or backwards and if you get a cyclic clunk, clunk, clunk it is the cv joint

Aaah yes I remember that as well - apologies, branding over product... Product is ferroslip by Molyslip. Comes in x2 flavours food safe and carcenogenic This is the food safe one and has a consistency of a light grease

A small item - The breather pipe connection was damaged so I replaced with an AN fitting which will connect securely to the AOS setup

I agree with the need to put some in there but use molyslip as it has a higher temp tolerance than coppaslip - I used coppaslip on my van brakes and it ended up running onto my wheels and staining the alloy. Not had the issue with molyslip

A quick cross reference based upon a pdf sent to me (thanks @savage bulldogs) if it is indeed a 4.111 ratio look at early Imprezas and and legacies - but not all models again across the years and models there were different ones used - A quick check on evil bay searching using 4.111 has generated some results so you will just need to confirm which ratio yours has

Many of them will fit but you need to ensure you maintain your ratio (unless you deliberately want to change). You have probably got an R160 rear diff but I wouldn't know the final ratio. Have you tried ebay and breakers to source a replacement? Also when was the last time you replaced the oil in the diff itself? A quick look and it appears you may have the 4.111 ratio. This was specced for Euro vehicles and had a matching 1.081 ratio transfer drive reduction gear. Other countries had a 4.444 diff but that was matched to a 1.000 transfer reduction gear (in gearbox) I would confirm the diff you have and then use that to search, then it becomes model independent