Jay762

Brilliant - back on the road again, great to hear :)

nice one - a cheap fix - we like those :)

I didnt have any issues running the 150W ones in mine however here is a high quality 55W option - a little steeper in price though http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sylvania-H7-SU-SilverStar-Ultra-Halogen-Headlight-Bulb-Pack-of-2-/161216020961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25893941e1

Nightmare news Pete - you are correct it is almost impossible to cross thread something undoing it, I have thought of one long winded scenario but that certainly wouldnt apply in this circumstance. How far is it to your mates Garage - one time I had a caliper fail whilst on a 300+ mile journey - I got the caliper off, fixed the pads in place by tie wraps then pumped the brakes to get the pistons pressed against them then tie wrapped the caliper out of the way under the wheel arch. the car obviously pulled to the one side but careful driving, smooth gear changes and lots of engine braking got me home

Thanks for posting - that is indeed a useful piece of info - I wouldn't have thought of checking the discs themselves

The engine running only helps with the servo assist part to make it easier for you pressing the brake pedal, the pads sit on the surface of the disc or !Removed! paper close, when pressure is released after you take your foot off the pedal the pads only move slightly from the discs themselves. But you should be able to spin the wheel freely when the brakes are not applied, if not the pads could be binding / dragging (possibly due to caliper issues) which builds up heat and wears your pad out This minimal movement is why you get eventual seizure of the pistons (combined with dirt, heat and brake dust build up)

dipping the clutch on startup is good practice just to remove a little more load on the engine. I dont know how the hand brake functions on a classic but if it is a cable to a lever on the caliper applying some hydraulic pressure then yes, both pads will be on the disc

Wotcha and welcome - we have a thread on here about resetting the Sigma M30 alarm system. Try this - also are you close to an antenna? http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2378-sigma-m30-pre-my00/

Try these worked really well in mine and they are a lot cheaper than a HID conversion kit, passed MOT as well :) check the fitment though as these are a HB3 bulb http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400380971959?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D400380971959%26_rdc%3D1&clk_rvr_id=588039838966&afsrc=1 just found the H4 type http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MTEC-H4-12v-100w-SUPER-WHITE-HID-CLASS-HALOGEN-BULBS-/400380977844?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d3890e2b4 Just checked your original post - H7, here you go http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MTEC-H7-12v-100w-SUPER-WHITE-HID-CLASS-HALOGEN-BULBS-/400380985536?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d389100c0

put it this way you need a steady hand and make sure no hammers are within easy reach - there are tools you can get which make it easier to compress the spring whilst you put the other bits in place though which really help

sounds like a bunch of trouble - the time I could see me creating a profile would be for a business purposes as part of a marketing strategy but that's about it really B)

those collets are indeed a fiddly job - lots of patience required ;)

Im not on Facebook

great post about the diesel bio contamination - happens a lot on marine diesel, you are right that prevention is the best way as cleaning out your system is a nightmare as it has to be a properly done job other wise it just comes back again. BG do a preventative additive that coats the tank and lines http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BG-2406-Professional-Bio-Diesel-Fuel-Conditioner-177ml-/370587139881?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item5648b6ff29 also other products can sort the issues of contamination http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bio-Medic-Fuel-Sterilizer-carlube-diesel-fuel-treatment-6x-bottles-offer-/380729959075?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item58a54622a3

love to see before and after - tidy ride you have there and the spoiler is going to set it off a treat :)

£20 per week thats not bad at all

makes a change from global warming :D

living the life - nice to hear :P

buddy - you cant go taping wires together - fair play having a go yourself but in future it would be worth you investing in a multimeter - they are so cheap now - just to check the voltages in the wires before you do - or just sort out a lamp with some tape and a bit of wire to see if it lights by connecting the wire to a bare piece of car metal http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-LCD-Digital-Multimeter-VoltMeter-Ammeter-AC-DC-OHM-Tester-Checker-/330919946996?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item4d0c5daaf4

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

hic one or two under the yard arm sailor :P

So what model are you looking for chum - a Legacy 2.0 sport or an Impreza 2.0 sport?

yup oil starvation will do that B)

best of luck with it - take your time and try to pump the pistons out as much as you can in situ (remove caliper from mounts remove brake pads and press brake pedal, if one piston moves block that with a brake pad or piece of wood and pump brake until the other moves) - makes it easier than on the bench if you dont have a compressor or grease gun with an adapter - brake piston pullers are fine if the piston is not seized

There are some MOT regs when it comes to HID bulbs- Gambit posted a load of info in one of the threads - cant remember which one but I do remember something about the requirement for self levelling and a screen wash being functional. That being said it will probably be down to your MOT chap / chapess if they pass it or not - I do know people with HID kits on bikes and dont have any problems but again it is down to where they take it for an MOT