Jay762

Yup helicoil is the way forwad with this one given the power of the remaining brakes Pete I know you'll take it steady I'm sure you would be fine and it saves the recovery cost

Wotcha and welcome - unfortunately I can shed no further light on the subject other than the test model theory

Wotcha and welcome - Great video and the sound from the onboard camera is just awesome, Diz, Gem & all the ladies a track day beckons :D

Pete just for clarity - have you managed to get the bolts out and have seen the two threads in the caliper or not managed to shift them at all?

moly slip was what I would recommend - however correct me if I am wrong - are you saying it works fine when you have it warmed up? If so possibly a lighter gear oil would work but I think the gearbox should be working fine when cold - after all it is just selecting gears, unfortunately this is where I run out of knowledge with respect to the fozzy.... I think you may have a slightly worn selector mechanism - I don't know if any other Fozzy members can shine some further information on the subject?

lovely finish - great work by the body shop

Looking good Try this for a bit of extra protection? http://www.angelwax.co.uk/?wpsc-product=ag you'll need to go through a full clean etc - probably worth clay bar treatment then after polish put a layer of this on Salsa King has had great results with the white version http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/4744-finished-the-rest-of-the-car-off-now/

only marginally :D

Brilliant - back on the road again, great to hear :)

nice one - a cheap fix - we like those :)

I didnt have any issues running the 150W ones in mine however here is a high quality 55W option - a little steeper in price though http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sylvania-H7-SU-SilverStar-Ultra-Halogen-Headlight-Bulb-Pack-of-2-/161216020961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25893941e1

Nightmare news Pete - you are correct it is almost impossible to cross thread something undoing it, I have thought of one long winded scenario but that certainly wouldnt apply in this circumstance. How far is it to your mates Garage - one time I had a caliper fail whilst on a 300+ mile journey - I got the caliper off, fixed the pads in place by tie wraps then pumped the brakes to get the pistons pressed against them then tie wrapped the caliper out of the way under the wheel arch. the car obviously pulled to the one side but careful driving, smooth gear changes and lots of engine braking got me home

Thanks for posting - that is indeed a useful piece of info - I wouldn't have thought of checking the discs themselves

The engine running only helps with the servo assist part to make it easier for you pressing the brake pedal, the pads sit on the surface of the disc or !Removed! paper close, when pressure is released after you take your foot off the pedal the pads only move slightly from the discs themselves. But you should be able to spin the wheel freely when the brakes are not applied, if not the pads could be binding / dragging (possibly due to caliper issues) which builds up heat and wears your pad out This minimal movement is why you get eventual seizure of the pistons (combined with dirt, heat and brake dust build up)

dipping the clutch on startup is good practice just to remove a little more load on the engine. I dont know how the hand brake functions on a classic but if it is a cable to a lever on the caliper applying some hydraulic pressure then yes, both pads will be on the disc

Wotcha and welcome - we have a thread on here about resetting the Sigma M30 alarm system. Try this - also are you close to an antenna? http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2378-sigma-m30-pre-my00/

Try these worked really well in mine and they are a lot cheaper than a HID conversion kit, passed MOT as well :) check the fitment though as these are a HB3 bulb http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400380971959?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D400380971959%26_rdc%3D1&clk_rvr_id=588039838966&afsrc=1 just found the H4 type http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MTEC-H4-12v-100w-SUPER-WHITE-HID-CLASS-HALOGEN-BULBS-/400380977844?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d3890e2b4 Just checked your original post - H7, here you go http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MTEC-H7-12v-100w-SUPER-WHITE-HID-CLASS-HALOGEN-BULBS-/400380985536?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d389100c0

great graphics - think it goes to show you need a wheel for a driving game not the controller as it makes you movements on throttle and wheel too much

put it this way you need a steady hand and make sure no hammers are within easy reach - there are tools you can get which make it easier to compress the spring whilst you put the other bits in place though which really help

sounds like a bunch of trouble - the time I could see me creating a profile would be for a business purposes as part of a marketing strategy but that's about it really B)

those collets are indeed a fiddly job - lots of patience required ;)

PITA when that happens

Im not on Facebook

great post about the diesel bio contamination - happens a lot on marine diesel, you are right that prevention is the best way as cleaning out your system is a nightmare as it has to be a properly done job other wise it just comes back again. BG do a preventative additive that coats the tank and lines http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BG-2406-Professional-Bio-Diesel-Fuel-Conditioner-177ml-/370587139881?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item5648b6ff29 also other products can sort the issues of contamination http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bio-Medic-Fuel-Sterilizer-carlube-diesel-fuel-treatment-6x-bottles-offer-/380729959075?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item58a54622a3

love to see before and after - tidy ride you have there and the spoiler is going to set it off a treat :)