Scooby Pete

Spark plugs = worst DIY job on the car. It's not really that hard to do, just extremely tight and awkward. Very easy to put your plug in cross threaded as it's done blind and they sit in a 6inch hole so you can't see what you are doing.

Swapping out the up pipe is pretty easy, just a bit fiddliy to get to some of the nuts on the turbo/down pipe off. For a 1st timer I reckon about 3 hours max. I wrote a quick how to here.... http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/5057-is-it-time-consuming-to-fit-a-new-downpipe/

Just got it on order with http://asperformance.com £165.00. I remember paying about £120 for the B&N short shifter for the classic 6 or 7 years ago. This looks a much better product.

Do not buy the cheap Chinese knock offs from ebay, they have a history of sticking and causing damage.

She looks like a grumpy old man with a white handlebar tash in the the pic on the left

Heres a pic of Tuhlee at 9 weeks on the left and 5 Months on the right :)

thats a good Price imho.

The clunk could also be the brake pads moving, they will move upwards in the caliper when reversing and can make a klonk noise. As Jay said replace both Discs at the same time. As for the Turbo they are not normally that noticable unless you have an induction kit fitted, then you can hear the air whoosing in to the system. pretty sure a few others will be along with thier 2 pence :)

Seriously it's not that hard, just take it slowly and have replacement studs and nuts on hand.

It's doable with axel stands Remove the heat shielding from your Turbo, not sure how to do this as mine was removed. Jack up front of car and put on stands. Under the car remove the 2 bolts that connect down pipe to centre pipe. There is a 14mm nut that holds the down pipe to the chassis via a bracket remove this. . Next we need to remove down pipe from turbo. It's easier if you take the car off the stands at this point, hassle though. From the engine bat unplug the sensor that is attached to the down pipe There are five 14 mm nuts the secure the down pipe to the turbo, these are normally a bugger to get off so you may ned an Irwin grip nut to get them off. Some of them have a stud with a. It on the other side so you need 2x14 mm spanners. Ratchet works but takes some ingenuity to get it to fit. http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set-5-pieces/96028?kpid=96028&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=COafq-XD5bwCFYWWtAodNy8AwA Some of the bolts may come out with the stud still attached, so may even unscrew the stud from the turbo. Prob worth getting some spare studs and 14 mm exhaust nuts and replace them all. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MANIFOLD-STUDS-M10-X-37MM-1-25MM-PITCH-METRIC-FINE-4-6-GRADE-PACK-OF-5-/180840089182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a1ae8c65e http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-X-1-25-PITCH-FLANGED-TYPE-MANIFOLD-NUTS-PACK-OF-25-/360400519857?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item53e98b82b1 Once you have the down pipe loose lower/drop it under the car. That's it off. Refitting is just the reverse, although don't forget a new gasket, get a genuine one rather than the crappy ebay ones, it's worth the extra believe me. If you are fitting a decat it's a good idea to get some exhaust wrap and wrap it 1st. It's a good idea to have a 2nd pair of hands as you need to go under the car to offer up the down pipe, and someone up top to guide it and start off a few nuts to hold it there. Obviously you'll need to put the car on the stands again to do this. Do the nuts around the turbo just enough to still give yo wiggle room on the down pipe as you need to get it back on the chassis mount. Once you have done this do all the nuts up to the correct torque or you will easily damage the studs or nuts by over tightening. Over all the job should take a cple of hours for the 1st time. It used to take me about 30-45 mins after a few swaps for mots and tinkering.

Chipmunks nesting in your struts?

If you register the £80 wheel nuts with Mcgard then they replace rusty nuts under a lifetime Gtee. Makes them worth investing in. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SUBARU-IMPREZA-STI-BLACK-WHEEL-NUT-SET-LUG-NUTS-McGARD-WRX-STI-/281133402026?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item4174db47aa#ht_1607wt_919

We'll just found out they are a deff no no.

Was looking at the dipping kit you can get seems quite a good idea but lots of waste with the carbon film. http://mydipkit.co.uk

Was that the DIY dipping kit you can get?

Welcome to the club :)

Welcome along :)

Did some more investigating and these are the correct nuts, how ever the beveled part of the nut is much shorter than the originals and the oz wheel nuts, not 100% sure they are fitting the wheel correctly as there is a fair amount of the wheels bevel showing around the nut. You can see the bear metal of the wheel showing.

Lol exactly the same boxes I had last weekend. At least you didn't have the threaded calliper :)

Looked at it through the window. May go and get a takeaway in a bit.

The bolts I've bought are for stock Subaru wheels, so are too small for the OZ wheels :( got some more on order so will have a set of black ones up for grabs.

Tom check you messages :)

Send cusco scooby wagon http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/user/1114-cusco-scooby-wagon/ a PM he recons callipers and may have a spare.

Yeah just read that, for a quick tart up £100k+ isn't a bad budget :) The hatch article was a bit disappointing.

Kart Boy Short Shifter and bushing kit. The Subaru STI Kartboy 6-speed shifter and bushings kit improves overall shifting and feel. This shifter is made from 4130 chromoly steel and shortens throw by about 40 percent. Installation time takes approximately 1 hour. Features • Short throw shifter and bushings • TIG welded 4130 Chromoly Steel • Shortens throw by approx 40%