shms

might it be to do with the baffled sump ?

might be an idea to say what models they are...🙂 (unless they are both svx)

i have that in mine but you need a new harness from the HU ... i found the 3.5mm socket part on ebay usa, from a breaker. but some folk fit a simple 3.5 in the ashtray. simple fix on the Kenwood set up. useful for playing tunes from your phone etc . £20 for the wiring. try contacting Subtechacy on http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php?/forum/1-general/

welcome to OB ownership...enjoy. 🙂

quote from road test... The ride does a decent job of ironing out bumps and rough surfaces, although it can get caught out by deeper potholes, but it's impressively smooth on the motorway, so Subaru Outback comfort levels do impress. **assuming yours is a Gen 4 (Gen5 legacy) either 2.0D or 2.5 petrol.... if it's rock hard something is amiss,,sounds like it's on coilovers ! mine's a 2007 and very compliant. maybe get a Subaru dealer or Indy to take a look at it ?

you sure it's not from the engine ?

https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts?cat=96&sub=97

but how does it drive ?...and do you have the budget to save it and enjoy it ? it's possibly worth more in parts as it's rare. look here for correct parts.. https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/

hi, sorry can't help with the wiring as mine is 2007 and 7 pin x2, but am intrigued that you are happy to tow with the fridge running on gas. whilst not illegal it's nevertheless fraught with danger so assume you're on board with the possible risks of a naked flame ! btw are you aware that you MUST turn it off if pulling into a petrol station ? and not when arriving at pump but before you enter. also if the fridge is of the absorption type it's very intolerant of not being level and being subject to going round corners, so your food may not be as cool as you hope on arrival ! it's easier to precool overnight on 240v before travelling and pack food in a insulated box (with ice blocks) carried in the car (less towed weight !!) Jmo and i hope you never have a shunt on route...🙂

i was gonna ask the same !! nowt wrong with a tribeca but the leggy is a cracker.

+1 for Millers 🙂

tbh that sounds a bit high, i'd have thought more like 6-7k if it's in A1 condition. bear in mind dervs are falling in the popularity stakes and subaru diesels don't have a good rep... maybe you should auction it with a reserve you're happy with,,at the end of the day it's only worth what someone else is prepared to pay.. GLWTS...🙂

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90-mtfs-manual-transmission-fluid.aspx

if it's brand new i'd refer back to the dealer to confirm there is nothing amiss..as a first step. if it's specced with low profiles and bigger wheels then the ride is bound to suffer. i don't think there are many on this forum that are likely to have your model but hopefully someone might be along to offer further advice.

just make sure you do regular QUALITY oil changes with genuine Subaru filters... what year is it ?

kinda depends on how you intend to look after i guess,and your budget... but ceramic coatings get a pretty good press... https://www.authenticdetails.com/authentic-blog/2017/10/16/should-i-ceramic-coat-my-new-car

would recommend oil/filter,,coolant and brake fluid change but you were prolly going to do that anyway...!! hope the tyres aren't flat spotted after standing so long...

i've heard good things about these guys but not used them myself...yet ! https://www.stephensengineering.co.uk/ assume your local dealer is Adams in Aylesbury ?

welcome, plenty of good advice on here, pics always appreciated.🙂

hi and welcome from another outback h6 owner.. (and imo a good idea to steer clear of the diesel boxers)

i'd say if you're towing with cvt then a change of fluid is deffo a good idea. i notice the towing weight allowance has dropped on the cvt versus torque converter. as for the fluid i would try an indy autobox specialist first as yours won't be the only cvt they're likely to be doing,,might work out cheaper than a subaru dealer. either way changing the fluid will be a lot cheaper than a new box...😉

always best to replace springs/shocks in pairs....

thankfully mine are still intact....🤞

are the corresponding wires the same colour ?.. if so you could bridge them temporarily to check the seat functions as it should ? or check them with a multimeter..

i'd add ...check the droplinks are in good nick, they cause annoying rattles..also the bushes in the front lower arms...not expensive. the spec b's are usually on bilsteins which do corrode over time, many might have been changed to alternative coilovers. again check for any knocking. engines as stated ^^^ are pretty bulletproof if regularily treated to a decent 5-30 or 5-40 you could do worse than read some threads on http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php?/forum/1-general/