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New Subaru Forester Owner! I have some questions -)


Paul_JJ
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I'm not entirely sure ours have them as when I enquired to go maf less I was told i'd need one to be billed and tapped into the manifold, think it's the later cars that have them as standard, to control the fuel trim, the maf does all the work from what I can gather,

Instead of replacing everything with seemingly no end to trying to find out what's wrong, maybe get it on the dyno for a power/fueling run the operator may be able to pin point it easier than changing more parts, for the sake of 60 or so quid might be the better option?

As for the remap the only option for our cars is an esl board, it wasn't cheap but it runs better and it pretty much paid for its self in fuel saving in about 6-9 months

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Thank you mate!

I've noticed that I get bad MPG when the engine is cold, my guess is that the water temperate sensor might be playing up, also I need to find it first -)

 

The reason I replace the MAF and Lambda is because I had error codes which are cleared now. Now I have code 25 which is missing on the list unfortunately, probably because it's related to the gearbox.

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So if I remove it nothing bad will happen like Check engine light or other problem? I believe that belt is ONLY for the AC? is that correct? I might leave it as it is, I just don't like the Subaru climate control, as it's really weird - lets say if I want to put 22C instead of 25C - it turns on the AC automatically then - I absolutely hate that!

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What's going on here then [emoji57] [emoji41]

Was a while ago now. When I bought the car previous owner told me he had the system tested and found the evaporator was leaking. He didn't bother repairing/replacing it and I've never used air con in a car so wasn't missing much. Roll on to when we done the cambelt and while it was off we decided to leave the belt off(Air con belt is separate) stripped the pump out, some pipework and the air con rad. I haven't had any lights at all before or after removal. Even when switching the air con on(devil makes work for idle thumbs) there was a button and it had to be pressed for science.

Anyway moral of the story is, you can remove your air con with no ill effects towards the running of the car and it won't throw up any engine lights. Plus one less belt for the engine to power [emoji57] [emoji18]

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Great info. Thank you!

 

Also, I finally found my problem with flashing HOLD.

 

Also there is a diagnosis for the auto gearbox as well, self diagnosis, but my code was shown on an OBD scanner worth £2500 -))))) And the code is - 25 — Еngine torque control signal

And I don't get this error at all times which makes me think it's a short somewhere or bad earth or the wiring is damaged somewhere...

 

Here is the list of ALL codes - someone might find it useful.

 

11 — Duty solеnoid A 
12 — Duty solеnoid B 
13 — Shift solеnoid 3 
14 — Shift solеnoid 2 
15 — Shift solеnoid 1 
21 — ATF temp sеnsor
22 — Atmospheric sеnsor (This is MAF sensor)
23 — Еngine revolutiоn signal (Detonation sensor?)
24 — Duty solеnoid C (The one which is responsible for the rear wheel drive -)
25 — Еngine torque control signal
31 — Throttle sеnsor
32 — Vehicle speed sеnsor 1
33 — Vehicle speed sеnsor 2
75 Incorrect gear changes.
79 Overheating of the gearbox.
81 Incorrect voltage supplied to the gearbox.
82 Incorrect solenoid voltage 1-2 solenoids
83 Solenoid voltage is too high
84 Incorrect solenoid voltage 3-2 solenoids
85 TCC Solenoid failure
90 TCC Solenoid incorrect voltage

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Does sound like a earth fault as your getting a lot of codes at once

if once the ecu's been reset you get the codes back up when stationery and idling or rev'ing ,try using jump leads from the negative terminal on the Battery to the inlet manifold and engine block to create a good earth .Then reset the ecu ,restart and see if it's resolved any of the fault codes

If it's not broke .....upgrade it

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THe list of ALL codes - is not MY codes -) I just thought I put a list for someone who might need it in the future. I only have 1 error - code 25.

I will check the earth tomorrow with the multimeter. And adding extra earth would be a good idea for sure.

 

Thank you for your support.

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-) No worries, just hope someone will find it useful. These are the Gearbox related error codes for SF5.

 

I'm currently washing my car, as didn't get a chance to wash it for some time, well -) will put some pics up once finished!

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If you really want them badly you can make me an offer, just PM me  -) Also the postage won't be cheap at all ! They need a refurb and I would rather get another set, I need 2 sets of wheels actually -) both 16 inches. The wheels are decent 16 inch as well, but just not my cup of tea.

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I ended up getting a brand new set of oem rims for 50 quid a wheel, not in position to be buying more !

As for fuel consumpiton stuck £40.00 in last week equates to 36.7l ended up doing 174 miles all short trips round town & my daily commute returned 21.75 mpg so not too bad really

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Thank you mate!

 

Does anyone know STANDARD fuel pressure for our cars? Can anyone measure their pressure?

I feel like my car runs mega rich after I put a WRX fuel pump. I also feel petrol during the cold start from the exhaust pipe, but the smell is strong...

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@Savagebulldogs is your man for that kind of info, I've no idea to be honest,

On start up they do run very rich as there's an auto choke system, hence why it starts off idling around 1500 and slowly drops to normal, i'd get it on a dyno for a run to see exactly how much it's over fueling, I can pretty much guarantee it will be, being an import

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26 to 30 psi is the standard fuel pressure pending on the manifold vacuum /engine load on a classic impreza . you'd have to get a garage to measure the pressure by fitting a inline gauge .

If you did have a change in pressure it would probably run a bit rough, as the injectors would be opening for the same duration but not squirting the right amount of fuel .

check the pump tank access hatch is sealed correctly and fuel system vapour lines to the charcoal canister are ok .

During the colder weather it will automatically be a bit richer(especially on start up ) as the colder air is denser so it needs more fuel on cold start to equal the air fuel ratio

also if it's a jdm the standard map will probably be set for a higher octane fuel and the ecu would add more fuel to achieve the maps parameters

But it's always worth checking out if you think you've possibly got a leak

If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

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