New Scooby owner in need of help ***URGENT***

[scoobyste]

Hi all, new Scooby owner... PROUD OWNER :P

I have a 2000 'W' reg Impreza turbo Facelift Classic AWD UK Spec
it is a GC8 model with an EJ205 motor

 

needless to say, I've been having LOADS of fun in it  well... that's up until I started getting a terrible hesitation and loss of power during full power
only way to describe it is like driving full throttle and then its like hitting a brick wall... complete loss of power for half a second say!
hasn't done this in a while now, lately it seems to just lose power intermittently like a choke is stuck on

it has only flashed a 'CHECK ENGINE' warning light up very briefly and not all the time!
happily it was enough that the diagnostics showed an MAF (Mass Air Flow) fault... but the BIG problem is the numbers on my sensor have worn off with age... now I cant find the right sensor for my car :(

I have tried 2 sensors already but both completely wrong!
first was a brand new ADS77401C which Blue print say is right for the car when checked against the registration number... sadly it clearly isn't right because that particular sensor made my Subaru run VERY erratically!!! it was popping, farting, juddering etc... to be honest a Ford Escort would of left me standing!!!
second was a local car breaking for spares, EXACTLY the same model, year etc everything apart from 1 digit on the engine code was different, well I tried it anyway and this ran the car as if it was a non turbo... no boost at all! as if it was stuck on choke (this is the only way I can describe it sorry... no power at all).

now to cancel out any other faults such as a breaking down coil and so on, I cleared the ECU each time and every engine flash only shows on diagnostics as an MAF sensor fault... to also cancel out other issues, I have refitted the original MAF sensor each time and it runs like a dream in comparison with hesitation only happening 2 or 3 times on full throttle through each gear.

It would be such an easy fix if I could get the number from my original MAF but sadly life throws a lot of obstacles my way :(

CAN SOMEONE HELP ME?????

someone must have the answer I need... if it helps, here are relevant specs so my hero can find the EXACT sensor I need-

model- GC8HK8D
engine type- EJ205HW2KD (the one I tried from the car breaking for spares was a 1KD... didn't think it would of mattered but it did!!!)

hoping a Subaru Guru can help me out asap :)

Thanks in advance, Ste.

Sorry to admin if this is in the wrong part of the forum... newbie so please bare with me

[WideSam]

Welcome to the club. Nice looking car! Sadly I can't help you with your issue... Although I imagine there's a man that will pop along in a minute who can :)

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[savage bulldogs]

Hi n welcome

Early Classic mafs are normally identified by the colour of the label green, orange ,purple ect but I'm unsure which would be the correct one for your year .Maybe one of the v5/v6 uk impreza boys will know

Have you checked for air leaks in the pipework between the maf and throttle body (intake tract ) as any air loss between maf and map sensor can somtimes ping a maf code , as the air pressure and air flow sensors information doesn't add up [emoji6]

[Gambit]

And just like that here's Savage ;) 

[WideSam]

That's the man I was looking for!

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[WideSam]

Ooh, no. I probably won't say that again

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[Gambit]

Ohhh sweety [emoji7]

[savage bulldogs]

I'm starting to worry about you 2 [emoji33]

Get a room will ya [emoji129] [emoji140] [emoji23]

[quit]

Check the inlet pipe very prone to cracking as savage said above

[scoobyste]

Hi, thanks for replies... yes I have checked for air leaks but cant find anything! :(
would a leak in the inlet pipe make it run the way it does? throwing up a CEL and hesitate under full throttle?

[savage bulldogs]

Yeah it might, as when it's on boost if it's sucking in extra unmetered air (leak before the turbo) it would "lean off " and cut the boost .

Leaks After the turbo (positive boost leak) would normally give you lack in power or whistling noise

Just thought its worth doing a through leak test as it might not be maf

Have you got any symptoms ?

Cos ropey idle is fairly common with knackered mafs

Is the maf sticker any particular colour ?

[scoobyste]

I cant see any causes of a leak on the intake pipe and don't know if it would matter but I don't have any exhaust leaks either

the car idles perfectly and drives normally but as soon as I put my foot FLAT down, it will get going and then feel like I have all of a sudden tried to tow a van behind... that's the best way to put it! but when it does it, it will jerk between full power and the feel of towing a heavy vehicle behind!!! its really annoying

as for colour codes, my MAF is not the typical unit with a big square on the top and a colour, it is a smaller sensor that is held in by 2 torque head screws... if that makes sense?
no colour code on them, just numbers but mine are too worn off to read :(

[quit]

The inlet pipe expands and contracts tho ! It's solid plastic only way to check it is take it off

[scoobyste]

I will try this in the morning :)

is it worth replacing with a silicone one to rule it out just in case???

and just to clarify that a leak in the plastic pipe from the MAF to the engine can cause all this PLUS a CEL?

[savage bulldogs]

Any unmetered air entering the engine will cause rough idle as the maf and map sensors are getting conflicting info . hence why somtimes you get a maf code ,admittedly normally with a map sensor code if it's leaking air.

When the engines cold start it and spray a little brake cleaner around the joins and bends of the maf to turbo pipework, the engine revs will rise if it sucks in the cleaner through a leak .

Don't spray to much or spray it on hot parts (exhaust system ect) as brake cleaner is flammable.

It could well be the maf, after all that's the code that's come up but it's just worth checking for a air leak as it's much cheaper than a replacement maf .

Did you reset the ecu once you fitted the new maf ?

As the ecu could still think that the maf is fubar if the codes weren't cleared .

Have a look on import car parts website for the correct maf for your model ,if you think you've got the wrong one (or give your make n model a google)

[Jay762]

Wotcha and welcome!

[scoobyste]

The ECU has been reset each time yes

As for the piping, i will take that off today and check it :-)

Is there any other pipes or hoses i should check???

Also my Impreza is UK spec so is it still possible to check on import car parts?

[savage bulldogs]

The pipework that passes under the inlet manifold is a pita to remove so have so plasters and a swear tin at the ready if you're going to remove it lol

Icp sell just about everything for all models of subaru and are about the cheapest prices for oe stuff . Their website is handy to cross reference part numbers too

[scoobyste]

WELL.... this is certainly an odd situation i am in now!

I have just called 2 Subaru dealerships, i wont name which but they a well established and have parts departments.

First dealership asked for the registration number (W661 UAW) and told me the MAF for my car is- 22794AA010

Second dealership asked for the chassis number (JF1GC8KD3YG052007) and they told me the MAF for my car is- 22680AA301

They bpth told me them numbers do not superseed to any others... SO WHICH F*****G ONE IS RIGHT???!!!!!!!!

[Gambit]

Strange can't understand why. [emoji17]

[savage bulldogs]

Is there any visual differences between the two mafs (bolt hole centres, shape length of element )

If the dealers are local maybe try taking your old one to them and comparing them side by side ?

Or explaining that you've been given 2 different part numbers and want to know if you can send it back when opened if it's the wrong part

[scoobyste]

I have just called a third dealership who asked me for my chassis number (JF1GC8KD3YG052007) and they have given me the same part number as the first dealership i called who only asked for my registration (W661 UAW)- 22794AA010

So interesting that the first dealership asked for reg number and third asked for chassis number and they both give me the same part number.

Still baffled at why the second dealership i called asked for a chassis number also and gave me a completely different number!?

[Gaulson]

22794AA010 is this... HERE

 

22680AA301 I can't find but the other MAFS with a similar part codes are the labeled ones savage was on about. BLUE - GREEN - PURPLE

 

Hope you find the problem :). You could always give the sensor a little clean with some brake cleaner... probably not wise but I did it with mine and it's worked fine ever since. Just be gentle!

[scoobyste]

right... I think I am getting somewhere now... FINALLY!!!!! :P
just got some interesting info on the odd part number I received

I have been in touch with 4 Subaru dealerships today ;)

the first dealership asked for my registration (W661 UAW) and they confirmed that the part I need is- 22794AA010

the second dealership asked for my chassis number (JF1GC8KD3YG052007) and they confirmed that the part I need is- 22680AA301 ... this number is for a COMPLETE unit (body, sensor, screws... the lot!) which Subaru don't supply anymore so I would have to buy the sensor separately and that number has been confirmed as- 22794AA010

the third dealership asked for my registration (W661 UAW) and they confirmed that the part I need is- 22794AA010

and lastly the fourth dealership asked for my chassis number (JF1GC8KD3YG052007) and they confirmed that the part I need is- 22794AA010

So it looks like I need part number 22794AA010 lol
I have just cross referenced Subaru's part number with Blue Print and it comes back as- ADS77401C

I should of been a private investigator! B)

[Gambit]

[emoji1] least you got there eventually. [emoji106]