October 27, 20169 yr Hi all new to club had subarus for a few years now. I've got a v2 import now and got a problem if anyone could help I've just fitted 440 injectors, parallel fuel lines and fpr got the car back together went to start it had a loud clunk noise now nothing car won't turn over. any suggestions would be great
October 27, 20169 yr Can you get a socket on the crankshaft pulley nut and see if it'll turn backwards
October 27, 20169 yr Author Hi Yh it will turn that was the 1st thing I checked but running out of ideas now
October 27, 20169 yr If it turns over with a spanner/socket, make sure it turns the proper way and see if you can run it through a few full revolutions to make are nothing is hitting anything internally and that you have good compression then look at the starter motor, see if that's crapped out
October 27, 20169 yr Did you get the clunk straight away as soon as you went to turn it over, or did it turn over a couple of times and then the clunk
October 27, 20169 yr Author I will try that in the morning it was the kind of noise of something hitting inside the engine but couldn't understand why or how that would happend it was fine yesterday when started the work
October 27, 20169 yr Author The 1st time I tried I got nothing the battary had died so got a new one tried again then got the clunk straight away so checked everything made sure everything was connected turned the engine by hand all fine so tried the key again and just got the clunk noise again.
October 27, 20169 yr If you're getting the clunk sound without the engine even turning over, makes me think it's the starter motor.
October 27, 20169 yr Author is there a way to test the starter? It wasn't a starter motor noise but I'll try anything
October 27, 20169 yr Author It's showing 12 volt on my volt gauge old battery was showing 8 so battery is good just running out of ideas
October 27, 20169 yr Has the new battery got the same cranking amps as the old one also i think new batterys should be around 13.5v as it will drop a few volts while cranking then when it starts the alternator should have a charge rate of about 13.5v i could be wrong and i'm sure someone will be along to correct me if i am hope u get to the bottom of the problem
October 27, 20169 yr Battery alone should show around 12v usually 12.4v. When running and no lights on should hit around 13.5v-14v. Voltage doesn't always tell the story. My battery can show 12v but wont start the car(dodgy battery that I still haven't replaced). Like stuartie says when it comes to starting power it's all about the CCA.
October 27, 20169 yr 12v doesn't mean it's ok, the only way to know for sure would be a drop/load test on the battery, if it's brand new you would think it should be fully charged but that may not be the case, I can't see it being hydro locked as you said it happened straight away which I'm assuming was soon as key was turned and before any/much fuel was injected ?? And also cos it turns over with the crank nut, without seeing the car I'm thinking battery or starter or associated wiring
October 27, 20169 yr And also, we are presuming that this car started and ran fine before you changed these bits ??
October 28, 20169 yr Author Yh car ran fine no problems before hand only reason I changed bits was for my map on Wednesday another person has suggested hydro locked I did prime the pump a few times before starting as fitted new lines and checked for any leaks going to have another look at it today and try the things that have been suggested just hope I haven't killed the engine
October 28, 20169 yr It can't be hydro locked if it turns over by hand both ways, it's one of the first things I thought of that's one of the reasons why I asked if you could turn it over on the crank nut, if you can turn it over and get it to go through the 4 compression strokes, one for each cylinder then it's gotta be something else
October 28, 20169 yr As Neil suggested whip the plugs out to see if they're covered in fuel and see if it will turn over without compression (no plugs in) What phase rails and injectors are they ? Did you have to use phase adapters and if so are the adapters and both of the o rings fitted correctly? Also check the "fuseable link " in the under bonnet fuse box . If it's blown check your inlet manifold and engine earthing before fitting a new one
October 28, 20169 yr Author The fuseable like is fine already checked there phase 1 rails with phase 2 injectors had to use the adapter kit all sealed up on the outside going to get the plugs out now see what they look like and turn it over
Create an account or sign in to comment