Swino Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 Hi all new to club had subarus for a few years now. I've got a v2 import now and got a problem if anyone could help I've just fitted 440 injectors, parallel fuel lines and fpr got the car back together went to start it had a loud clunk noise now nothing car won't turn over. any suggestions would be great
Piggysniffer Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 Can you get a socket on the crankshaft pulley nut and see if it'll turn backwards
Swino Posted October 27, 2016 Author Posted October 27, 2016 Hi Yh it will turn that was the 1st thing I checked but running out of ideas now
Piggysniffer Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 If it turns over with a spanner/socket, make sure it turns the proper way and see if you can run it through a few full revolutions to make are nothing is hitting anything internally and that you have good compression then look at the starter motor, see if that's crapped out
Piggysniffer Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 Did you get the clunk straight away as soon as you went to turn it over, or did it turn over a couple of times and then the clunk
Swino Posted October 27, 2016 Author Posted October 27, 2016 I will try that in the morning it was the kind of noise of something hitting inside the engine but couldn't understand why or how that would happend it was fine yesterday when started the work
Swino Posted October 27, 2016 Author Posted October 27, 2016 The 1st time I tried I got nothing the battary had died so got a new one tried again then got the clunk straight away so checked everything made sure everything was connected turned the engine by hand all fine so tried the key again and just got the clunk noise again.
Sandals Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 If you're getting the clunk sound without the engine even turning over, makes me think it's the starter motor.
Swino Posted October 27, 2016 Author Posted October 27, 2016 is there a way to test the starter? It wasn't a starter motor noise but I'll try anything
Piggysniffer Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 I know it sounds daft but is the new Battery definately fully charged
Swino Posted October 27, 2016 Author Posted October 27, 2016 It's showing 12 volt on my volt gauge old Battery was showing 8 so Battery is good just running out of ideas
johned Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 Are the bores hydraulically locked with to much fuel.
stuartie Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 Has the new Battery got the same cranking amps as the old one also i think new batterys should be around 13.5v as it will drop a few volts while cranking then when it starts the alternator should have a charge rate of about 13.5v i could be wrong and i'm sure someone will be along to correct me if i am hope u get to the bottom of the problem
Scoobyghost Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 Battery alone should show around 12v usually 12.4v. When running and no lights on should hit around 13.5v-14v. Voltage doesn't always tell the story. My Battery can show 12v but wont start the car(dodgy Battery that I still haven't replaced). Like stuartie says when it comes to starting power it's all about the CCA.
Neil Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 If the starter's ok take spark plugs out and see if it will turn on key 1
Piggysniffer Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 12v doesn't mean it's ok, the only way to know for sure would be a drop/load test on the Battery, if it's brand new you would think it should be fully charged but that may not be the case, I can't see it being hydro locked as you said it happened straight away which I'm assuming was soon as key was turned and before any/much fuel was injected ?? And also cos it turns over with the crank nut, without seeing the car I'm thinking Battery or starter or associated wiring
Piggysniffer Posted October 27, 2016 Posted October 27, 2016 And also, we are presuming that this car started and ran fine before you changed these bits ??
Swino Posted October 28, 2016 Author Posted October 28, 2016 Yh car ran fine no problems before hand only reason I changed bits was for my map on Wednesday another person has suggested hydro locked I did prime the pump a few times before starting as fitted new lines and checked for any leaks going to have another look at it today and try the things that have been suggested just hope I haven't killed the engine
Piggysniffer Posted October 28, 2016 Posted October 28, 2016 It can't be hydro locked if it turns over by hand both ways, it's one of the first things I thought of that's one of the reasons why I asked if you could turn it over on the crank nut, if you can turn it over and get it to go through the 4 compression strokes, one for each cylinder then it's gotta be something else
savage bulldogs Posted October 28, 2016 Posted October 28, 2016 As Neil suggested whip the plugs out to see if they're covered in fuel and see if it will turn over without compression (no plugs in) What phase rails and injectors are they ? Did you have to use phase adapters and if so are the adapters and both of the o rings fitted correctly? Also check the "fuseable link " in the under bonnet fuse box . If it's blown check your inlet manifold and engine earthing before fitting a new one
Swino Posted October 28, 2016 Author Posted October 28, 2016 The fuseable like is fine already checked there phase 1 rails with phase 2 injectors had to use the adapter kit all sealed up on the outside going to get the plugs out now see what they look like and turn it over
Piggysniffer Posted October 28, 2016 Posted October 28, 2016 I'm on the edge of me seat with this one !!
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