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Posted

I always dip the clutch anyway, always taught to do that by my parents incase car is in gear!!! And when parked in drive I leave handbrake off and in gear to stop locking brakes.

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Posted

I always leave cars in gear mrs goes nuts

My 2012 skoda won't let you start it till you put clutch in

Posted

They put these safety measures on for starting etc its ridiculous all just for a few more points in some test probably.

On newer AT you usually have to press brake to start, why? Handbrake's on will that not do the job?

Its car manufacturers having no faith in drivers anymore. I don't blame them either seeing the state of some people that are allowed on the roads.

Posted

lol ... & amount of engine builders I know who complain at people loading pressure on crank thrust bearing by clutching when starting a car ...

Posted

Not as much as sitting at the lights with it held in surely

by then it warmed up & has oil pressure, from cold & zero pressure many engine builders really frown on it.

Posted

I appreciate this, I did stop after I had to replace a release bearing (and gearbox and clutch and flywheel and diff) on my derv astra, It had a massive telltale noise as well, so i made a conscious effort to start releasing the clutch. It was an old habit and its still dying hard

Posted

I have been forced to do it in the new Scooby otherwise it wasn't something I had done previously

Posted

Well, I went to do the caliper just now, the top 17mm bolt on the bracket needed a lot of force and hassle to come loose, when that was broken went to the bottom one and it is rounded off completely!! Quick call to Richard Henry and heading up there later to let them have a go.

 

It seems everything the last owner touched is either broken or bolts are seized. Luckily this is the last thing I haven't changed that he did something with, and even luckier he only had the car for 7 weeks so didn't have that much time to do much damage!!

Posted

I bet it will take them a few minutes I bet they have one of them sockets that sort of digs itself in. again airguns to tighten things up with added salt and crap from the roads makes life hard work. more so without the ramps :( 

Posted

Yeah they used Irwin bolt grips, which I have but only in 16mm and 18mm and I course I needed 17mm. Only took them a couple of minutes and they didn't tighten up mcj so it would be easy to undo. So will give it another go on Thursday probably

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Posted

Those irwin bolt grip soctets are particularly good & should be on the serious diy mechanics christmas list as far more useful than socks. Very useful on heavy rusted head bolts & can even be used for removing totally fubarbed torx & allen socket bolts.

Quality set of wall drive sockets is worthwhile too as when just corners rounded of these tend to work fine, also walldrive of good manufacture cause hardly any obvious deformation to tight bolts & dont ride of the head of the bolt so easily so save knuckles & keeps the fasteners looking neat & tidy.

Is amazing what damage some people do when working on cars & things like that are hard to spot when purchasing a vehicle & if unlucky can create some highly unwanted frustration & expense ...

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Posted

yup echo advice from Mr.B there -  that plus good pen oil and a blow torch, try the one then progress to next on the list, prime example exhaust studs on older bikes :D

Posted

Irwin bolt grips have save me more than once, just check to make sure you have a replacement bolt on hand or you may have to beg someone to get you one....

Thankfully none of the bolts seem to rusted in and just the one rounded off so far. I always spray all bolts with Plus Gas before starting the job just to help out a little. Seems to work fairly well.

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Posted

I bought one but was too big for what I needed it for but my friendly MOT guy just down the road soon sorted them for me :)

Posted

Well this job is just turning into a right pain in the !Removed!, got one piston out with a lot of force and wiggling, however the second one was obviously the stuck one and wouldn't budge. No matter what I tried. Phoned up a breaker who is sending out a new (brand new) one for £75. So should be able to get it on by the weekend which is good because I need my car to get to work.

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Posted

If you haven't trashed the caliper you might want to contact Cusco as he refurbs them and dependant on cost you could resell to recoup some money - or have a working spare you can rotate for future servicing?

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Posted

Not trashed yet, was half thinking of having another go by don't really have the time, will get in contact with him and see what he says, I should be able to send the seal kit back though and the pistons so all it has cost me is the price of shipping them back, and my time so not a bad result in the end. And a brand new caliper for £75 sounded like a very good deal to me.

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