Tlag

I think they will learn to a certain extent. I think they will happily cope with higher octane fuel on the odd occasion but the benefits gained from that fuel will only be the cleaning benefits as it runs through the system. The car may also become smoother but I doubt you will see any performance benefits. At the end of the day, whether the car is an STI or a Justy, if they are UK cars, they are set up at the factory to run best on 95. JDM cars are a different matter entirely. In Japan, the cheap fuel is 101/102 octane so that's what the cars are set up for.

I'm not entirely sure that running 99 octane fuel permanently is good for a car that's opitomised for running on 95. I can see the benefits of the higher octane but without a remap, I think I would only use it every other tank at the most.

As it's a UK car, it's set up for 95 octane fuel so I would stick to that. Therefore, my choice would be the filter. If you want to go for higher octane fuel, it will probably need mapping, which would actually bring the best out of the car

That looks sweet.

I've not heard of too many of the newer 2.5,s going wrong, if any. I doubt the fuel consumption is any different to a normal 2.5 model, unless you really give it the beans for a good while. I can't see any reason why servicing schedule would be any different either. What may be an issue, is if it does go wrong. With so few of the cosworth being built, you may suffer for getting bits, if you need any. Sorry, can't be more help.

All the engines I've stripped and rebuilt, I have never seen a gasket yet, other than a very old 2.2 n/a.

I can't believe you have driven without front pads for 2 weeks! That's just unbelievably dangerous for you, your passengers and everyone else on the road. I could rant on here but I won't bother. I'm guessing what you have done is seized a hub due to heat. The amount of energy going through the caliper pistons onto the the disk would cause massive heat, even for short distances. That heat would directly transfer through all the components, so I'm guessing you have seized a hub. The disks will also need renewing. They will be warped and scored all over the place.

Thats why I said to take it out. Glad you found it. :)

Lol, i was a bit ambitious with 16 digits :)

The gearbox code sticker is just above the starter motor not he bell housing. From memory, the code is about 16 digits long.

First thing to check is the main fusible link. It is in the relay/fuse box near the battery. When you have the lid off, it should be the first item nearest the front of the car. It looks just like a piece of wire in a loop. (In fact, that's what it is). Don't, just look at it though, take it out. They have a habit of looking fine but have actually burned through near one of the spade connectors

The intercooler pipe that goes to the throttle body usually has an adapter for one. It usually points down. I keep using the word' usually' because most things on Subarus are never the same :)

Hi Sounds like a great plan. The roads above Monaco are superb, especially in the cars you are taking. The Col du Turini is the main event. It's very tempting to blast up it as fast as you can but you miss a hell of a lot by doing that. If you have time, do it twice, once quick and once to appreciate the road. It's worth it.

Do you have a boost gauge fitted? Despite the noise, does it still boost normally? If it does, I would guess that the noise could be the turbo itself.

I wonder if the lorry crashed in the floods. Just the outward appearance makes it look old. The metal around the exhaust port looks very clean, but the inside of it looks much older as does the condition of the pulleys

200 miles old from brand new or since a rebuild? If it's from brand new, it must have been stored badly

Have you hit any deep pot holes? Bricks, logs etc? I wonder if one of the shocks has given up or maybe bent something.

Are you saying that changing the wheels round is what started the problem? If so, I would guess you have a slightly buckled wheel and putting it on a different hub has shown it up. Try swapping the wheels back to the original positions to see if the problem goes

If the price is for the whole kit, belt, tensioner and pulleys, the parts alone could be £200 ish depending on model. The job takes between 2-3 hrs and then you have vat so it all depends what the hourly rate is. It's probably worth changing the water pump whilst in there too.

I found that when in a multi storey car park, I can set car alarms off just by driving normally past them. Is it wrong to smile when they go off :)

The build has slowed a little but is still progressing. Have now fitted the buckets/shims and camshafts. Finally fitted the cam covers with new gaskets and started building the front covers up

Sounds just like an air lock. When you fill her up again, try to get the nose of the car higher than the back if you can. They can be a pita to bleed and making the fill point the highest point will help. The above description of how to bleed it is spot on, but I would just add that when the engine is running, put the heater vents towards the windscreen and turn the heater on full. (only reason to put the vents towards the screen, is so you can feel the warm air through an open drivers window, if that makes sense).

Over here, our cars are checked every year for emission output which means it's a bit difficult to decat an exhaust for example. Do you not have a yearly safety check on the cars in the US?

3 port boost solenoid a are all over ebay for between 20 and 40. I still need one too. An up rated fuel,pump should be less than £100. The ecu is located under a plate in the passengers footwell. Peel back the carpet where the carpet starts to go up from the floor and you will see a metal plate. Under the plate is the ecu.

About 3 hrs is right. To do it in that time, you need someone who knows Subarus and has a 4 post lift.