Tlag

Should be good for 350 then

With a td05, an up rated top mount and a remap, 350 should be achievable. The limiting factor will be fuelling. What injectors do you have and what fuel pump?

Would there be enough room over the inlet manifold?

I wonder if the belt jumped a tooth or two. If the previous owner changed the belt and not the tensioner, it can do that.

That's a project I fancied doing for years, a 2ltr twin twin turbo in a justy. Although I wanted to do it to the suzuki swift shape one

Other than saving a tight bend in the IC pipework, I'm not sure what benefits that would have. Although, it would have saved me a lot of time when I first installed everything. I'm thinking of going one step further. Once the car is run in and has it's full map on, it will be a maffless system. At that point, I won't need the air intake pipe under the manifold for anything. So, my idea is to mount the turbo in the inner wing, low down with a very short direct air feed via a filter so some sort. It would make for odd shape exhaust and IC pipes but the spool up time should be minimal. I just need to weigh up the pros and cons to see if it would be worth it. As I have the 2.5 which should be really torquey, it may not be much of an improvement.

Savage, I hadn't considered that. I'll have a look.

It's a 2ltr sump so that's out. I'm leaning towards the MD but as I've always had VF's it's a bit of a decision. At least a 35 can be rebuilt easily

I've actually already got a GT35 with the relevant rotated pipe work. Although, I've changed my mind on that as it's total overkill. I'm now thinking MD321, or maybe VF34 or 35

I've not done a single mile yet. I had an issue with the ESL ecu to start with. That was sent away to be sorted and only came back today. I've not been too bothered about the car for the last few weeks as I've slipped a disc so as yet, can't drive it anyway. I fitted these today as i look on is as 'therapy' :)

It comes with it's own sensors. I would have liked the toucan system myself but it wouldn't work with the legacy ecu so I had to go this route. It's similar cost to a Defi system but I just hate all the extra circular gauges everywhere. It's just personal taste.

It's a completely stand alone system with separate sensors for everything that I chose. All I had to do was install the sensors and fabricate the screen into the dash.

The bit between is the cup holders. The top screen is the new bit and is the gauges. Third picture shows it powered up.

Well I managed to get one part of the build completed today so I'm a happy chappy for now :) It's gone from this: To this: To this: :)

An Impreza classic kit should fit. Although, I have never seen a kit that dosnt need a little fettleing to fit. Using it on a fozzy may need a bit of thought once you have it to get it to fit as the chassis rails are in a different position to the Impreza ones for example. You will probably need to cut away some of the insides of the bumper too, to get the actual IC to fit Don't forget to get a remap done too, or you could end up with epic turbo lag.

Done the MRI scan waiting for an appt with neurosurgeon. After that, I don't know. It's taken a while but at least the pain medication is working now. To start with, even morphine had no effect.

I blocked off the PCV in the manifold first. I have two breathers on each of the cam covers (as it's a 2.5 bottom end). One pair runs to a 't' above the crankcase breather and then to a catch can. The other pair on the cam covers go to another 'T' and on to another catch can. The holes in the air intake pope have just been blocked off. Quite crudely in the case of one of them. I wrapped a bolt in tape, jammed it in and then put a jubilee clip around it. As long as no air can escape, or enter, it's good. Unfortunately, as I slipped a disk 4 weeks ago, I haven't been near the car since. I'm waiting to benefit enough to get the mapper back with my sorted ecu. Only then can i test the modifications made.

You need to measure the gap in the piston that the oil ring came out of. The oil ring is the one with what looks like corrugated metal in the middle. (It's also the one in that photo, if that's yours, then the 3mm is the one as that's showing 2.9mm) If you are still unsure, ring advanced up and tell them the exact model of car you have and year. They are really helpful and will point you in the right direction.

It's not so much about the power (as long as it's standard) it is all about the way it's looked after. I've seen them with over 200000 on the clock and still running sweet. Having said that, I've seen engines expire at 65000 as well. It's all down to the way they are treated and maintained.

Nothing is impossible but you may have to get creative with the way it fits in. It definitely won't go straight in.

Try http://www.importcarparts.co.uk

Actually, that's a good point. In your first post you mentioned an area of wetness on the under tray. That obviously has to have come out of a pipe or a component. Take the car for a drive and get it up to temperature. With the engine running, lift the bonnet and have a look for where the coolant is escaping. My original though was the overflow tank, but it could also be that the radiator has sprung a leak. You may need a torch at this point. With the engine running and up to temp, look down the radiator end pieces. You should be able to see engine side quite easily but you will need the torch to see down between the rad and the slam panel. If the coolant is on the undertray on the passenger side and the rad looks fine, it could be the water pump but you won't see that as it's inside the cam belt covers.

Sounds like it may be a simple as new plugs, leads or battery. It maybe just needs a good service.

That sounds like early signs of head gasket failure. The gaskets tend to break up between the combustion chamber and the water jacket that surrounds it. Compressed gases get into the coolant system which increases the coolants volume. The excess is forced out of a tiny overflow hole in the overflow tank. That's where you get the wetness from and the lower level of coolant. It's rare on Subarus to get the classic sign of head gasket failure (oil and coolant = mayo). The one way to check for certain is to go to a garage and ask for a sniff test to be done. They should have a device that suspends a chemical above the radiator cap. The fumes will send the chemical a different colour if combusted material is in the coolant.

Yep, agree with above.