savage bulldogs

I've never used "turbo cleaner" before but could you remove a vacuum or oil breather line (further along the intake pipework) plug the line and then spray it through the hole in the intake pipe?

I know when converting to twinscroll you do have to change ... Headers . Up pipe . Turbo. Downpipe. Sump . Dipstick. I'm unsure about the oil pickup and splash guard/baffle though . I don't know anything about the reverse conversion, so it would be worth checking if single scroll headers clear the twinscroll sump. As this would save a lot of labour and hassle if you could leave the sump ect on . If google dont know, then Maybe someone like matty b would be worth a call as he used to sell twinscroll conversions ( I nearly bought one off him a while back) . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Well a builder I work for had forgot to order the sand for the sand n cement outside I was supposed to be doing today[emoji15] So I ended up with the day off and thought I'd might as well have a pop at fitting the compact billet ally baffled catch can [emoji41] . I stripped the old Un'baffled vta one out and started to look for a ideal place to locate the new one at the front of the bay . I soon realised that until I've had a new intake hard pipe made up there's really nowhere at the front I can fit it [emoji57]. So I decided to fit it in the same area as the old one for now but just a little bit lower and closer to the scoop . The ss braided hose is a proppa pita to cut neatly (even with a grinder ) and I got halfway through fitting it then rembered I hadn't got a "T" piece to join the cam breathers together [emoji55] Luckily enough I had a old hard pipe of the correct dia so managed to make one up Although it's not in the ideal location atm I did take it for a 30 min drive and the internal bronze filter with the added "ash" oil vapour filter seems to have stopped the oily smell in the cabin [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Fitted the new compact baffled catch can today with some (hard to cut neatly) stainless steel braided pipework. Only had it up to temp once but so far so good and no oily smell in the cabin [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I think matty b had one up for sale last week ,it was either a 34 or a 43 can't remember which but he'd be worth a look anyways [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had a few scooby shiny bits turn up at argos which is handy . All I've gotta do now is shake the Mrs off the sent and stealth my way to the click n collect counter [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Shame cos that's too far for me ,dunno about James though If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've got a black preface ally bonnet that I was going to get sprayed to put my v1 back to standard . But if anyone has a ally 406 silver bonnet I'd gladly swap it for my 406 silver facelift bonnet. Might even do a deal with a full facelift swap including the crystal headlight and v3/v4 406 grill . I'm in Ipswich Suffolk [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem bud, classics are known to "blow" the spark out when running extra boost and sometimes a smaller gap can rectify this (if it's a minor misfire) . If it's a v1/v2 a newage coil pack conversion is another option to increase spark strength [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I think I gapped mine to 6.5 instead of 7 . Changing the plugs for colder ones won't make the engine run any colder , if anything they'll probably make it run worse and possibly make them crack or fail . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bit difficult to say if they are running too hot but I'd say it's certainly not over fuelling as they're not "sooty" Don't put 5's in as they're colder running than the 6's , most run ngk heat 7's on modified scoobs and close the gaps up a bit if running more than a bar of boost . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you intend on fitting the v5/v6 wagons engine I'd look for a clean jdm v5/v6 with a fubar'd engine . As using the same version will make the engine loom,inlet manifold and auxiliaries match up easier. As for model ,I personally wouldn't get anything to special as you would de value it by re shelling into it . I saw a mint condition ,bog standard v1sti up for £8k . I think I'd be lucky to get that for my modded one , even though the engine n 6 speed is probably worth £5k . I will admit my clean shell would've gone to the scrappies if I hadn't have saved it for my project .Mind you I don't think I'll ever sell it but if I did I'd probably have to break it to get my money back. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Do the top 2 back up to take the strain of the bottom ones ,then remove the awkward bottom ones first If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The early top mount intercoolers are the least efficient in the range and rarely make over 300hp when mapped . So keeping engine bay temps down helps keep the tmic from soaking the heat into the intake air . Giving colder denser air and more hp [emoji6] Don't wrap the whole downpipe ,as it will get wet under the car , just the top and vertical bit . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's a recent thing (since its been hot) it might be tmic heat soak , have you got the turbo /downpipe heat shields in place? if not is your downpipe "wrapped" to keep the heat down in the bay ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

There's always a risk with second hand engines especially if they're over 20 yrs old . A rebuild will cost £1.2 k in basic parts and machining costs, without labour and a new crank ect . If you decide to buy second hand.... Any v1 92 to v4 98 long engine (bottom end and heads) will fit if you fit your inlet manifold and auxiliaries to it . If you want a straight swap (leave the inlet manifold ect on ) get a v1 92 to v2 early 96 complete engine as this will drop in. If your not intending on mapping it afterwards try to get a engine out of the same model , cos cams differ on the sti models . Best of luck and let us know how you get on. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Don't think the ecu would back the boost off if it's sensing exessive heat but a engine that's too hot might tighten up the tolerances enough to cause drag/wear to affect performance. If intake temps are high or its over fuelling you'd loose a bit power . Is it boiling over or just seems to be running a bit hot ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

He's uploaded over 100 pics but unfortunately they're on F.B If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

A friend of mine has all his work done at rcm and gets on well with olly n Co . I'll see if I can find a link to his fos album so we can have a dribble over it [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Tell the mot tester that it's a drift car ... so you need the side lights pointing sideways to see where your going [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just ordered £80's worth of braided lines to plumb in the new catch can and billet fuel rails (once they arrive) Hopefully the sun will stay out so I can change the oil filter and drop some fresh nano drive in this afternoon[emoji1] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

V1 /v2 o2 sensor is in the headers just before the upipe. They moved it to the downpipe from v3 onwards [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Give the "model code" a google ,it's located on the silver plaque under the bonnet on top of the passenger side suspension turret [emoji6]

I'd personally prefer the widest tyres I can fit (better traction and wider track ) . I had 04 wrx rims on my classic with 4 pot calipers ,so I'm sure that they'll fit but unsure about the minimum width spec they recommend . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Welcome back to burble n boost bud [emoji41] Blob and bug wrx's run the same hub centers and brakes (unless ones a sti with the bigger brembo set up) so clearance and offset shouldn't be a issue Afaik . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊