savage bulldogs

At least I think I've sussed how to plumb it in now [emoji4] but that big bit of paper with covered in squiggles and bubbles is the "quick start" guide when setting it up [emoji15] the school boy error of being too !Removed! to drive didn't help with the productivity this afternoon [emoji4] As I need to do a run in each gear so it can learn the differences in vacuum under different loads ,so it can then duplicate the same boost targets/curve in every gear by itself . Well once I sober up enough to decipher the "quick start " bubble code If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Started to think fitting the avcr would be a good idea today [emoji41] Had another idea to have a few early beers while doing some research on how to wire it in [emoji39] 3 hrs and 7 beers and a couple of jd's later This little lot is frying my brains and will be going back in the box until the new year [emoji23] Have a goodn fellas [emoji482] [emoji322] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

The woodruff key in the end of the crank should sit 6'0 clock with the timing mark at 12 '0 clock (as in my first pics) The Groove on the oil pump and the line on the plate behind the crank sprocket were the tdc alignment marks for the crank on my 94 ej20 Not the best pic for alignment, as I had left the crank just under tdc to avoid hitting the piston crowns with the valves while dialing the cams in but it shows the 2 marks and woodruff key at the bottom If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Unequal length Headers cause the burble as the exhaust gasses hit the upipe at different times compared to equal length Headers I'm not sure what year subaru fitted equal length Headers across the whole UK & jdm range but A friend of mine has a (04 ish) jdm sti blobeye .which comes with equal length Headers as standard and even with a 3" miltek turbo back it doesn't burble it does sound better than the standard set up but it sounds more like a straight 4 than a boxer burble If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Does sound like a earth fault as your getting a lot of codes at once if once the ecu's been reset you get the codes back up when stationery and idling or rev'ing ,try using jump leads from the negative terminal on the battery to the inlet manifold and engine block to create a good earth .Then reset the ecu ,restart and see if it's resolved any of the fault codes If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Phase 1/1.5 440's are a direct fit but they're getting on a bit and can't be resized (opened and reflowed to make them a bigger cc) Phase 2 440's will fit with "phase adapters" in place (which cost about £ 50) . Cheapest option would probably be good second hand ones off a trusted seller £40 injectors + £50 phase adapters including new O rings Or get the above, then send the second hand phase 2 injectors off to someone like "lateral performance" to get them cleaned /refurbed for about £150 or reflowed and cleaned (made into a bigger cc) for about £250 ish If you want the tdo5 to run more than 1.2 bar you'll need a later map sensor to be "mapped in" when fitting the ecu and possibly a newage coil pack conversion. As standard early classic map sensors only read up to 1.2 bar and the coil packs somtimes don't like the extra boost [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Did you allow for the crank regrind and buy "oversized " shells and check the "end float" ? did you use graphogen builders paste or just oil on the bearings when assembling ? Did you insure the engine/crank oil galleries,breather system,oil cooler ,sump ect .... were clean n clear (been through the engineers hot wash and rodded through ideally). Did you prime the oil system before initial start up by pulling the crank sensor to let it turn over but not fire ? Over doing the instant gasket can lead to bits breaking off and blocking oil galleries and ports in the crank as well. New crank /shells and plastigauge on assembly should rule out crank clearance tolerances Best of luck n keep us posted fella If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Sorry I've only just spotted this post , I'm not sure what you mean by "white mark" it's probably been tip exed by someone previously changing the belt . I line mine up by the notches in the cambelt cover backing plate as the double "cam to cam" timing marks on the pulleys often look a tooth out . Here's a couple of (bad quality) pics let me know if you need anymore and how you get on

That looks standard to me too bud if it ain't broke , upgrade it

Bar stewards [emoji35] Gutted for you stants , at least they didn't get in it and actually manage to steal it [emoji19]

My brv couldn't make it round mine tomorrow

Cheers gaulson and gambit [emoji41] I've tried to keep it looking oe with minimal mods ...... Well on the outside anyways [emoji4] Ghost the arb and links along with elbaich pro springs is probably one of my favourite mods . As it made my scoob have far less body roll and oversteer [emoji106]

No problem bud, keep us updated and hope it's boosting better soon

Yeah v2 with a phase 1 fuel / inlet set up . I had a boost leak on my temporary reverse inlet set up spotted on the dyno quite easily [emoji6]

Yeah being ally the deck type , height and straightness makes a bigger difference on contact area against the underside of the head gasket. My heads and deck face had a minor skim which didn't affect the comp but the deck height and difference in piston bowl did . If it turns out to be bearing I'd definitely recommend the red plastigauge and a new crank if possible. there's quite a few opinions on running in but here's what I did 10 w 40 Mineral oil for 250 mls keeping it off boost and under 3k and engine braking whenever possible. Fresh mineral oil new filter still off boost and engine braking but up to 4.5 k till 500 mls 500 to 1k new oil n filter then gradually increased the off boost rev limit by 1k every 200 miles (700 miles 5.5k ect) With occasional spurts of "actuated" boost (0.5 bar) under 4k but no higher boost for me untill mapping day ( as I was running a bigger turbo and different cams)

missed a bit [emoji5] the z4 ecu is for a early wrx with a tdo5 16g turbo with 260 hp @0.9bar . yeah you'd have to open the ecu case to check for a esl board to check if it's been mapped[emoji6]

A smoke test should show up any boost leaks but I'd check the intake pipe you fitted as you said it started screeching after you fitted it . You'd get more pressure in the vac line system when the engines under greater load in the higher gears .Which in turn would change the boost limits achieved. If it holds 0.5 bar when running "actuated" boost without fuel cut kicking in . I'd guess that it's due to the lack of back pressure (decat) and increased air flow (fmic /air intake). Are causing the boost to peak above the maps standard duty cycles which activates fuel cut . I wouldn't keep driving it on boost if it's cutting ,as it's probably trying to keep the boost in control or maxing out your injectors (If they're grey 380's ) so it doesn't eat itself by running lean . Is there a 4wd dyno near you as a dyno run (£60 ish) would probably be the best option for identifying leaks and over boost . If you can't afford the £550 to get it mapped you could try to get the intake /tmic back to standard and see if the problem persists

Hi n welcome, sorry to hear that it's knocking again bud [emoji19] I've only ever built the 1 boxer lump but here's a few things that might be worth considering for the rebuild . Most reputable builders advise not to regrind the cranks and only suggest re using a crank if it's mint or just needs a light polish . I used plastigauge to double check the big end ,mains and cam caps clearances as it's cheap and only really costs a bit of time did you allow for the skim when calculating the head gasket thickness? Did you check the deck face /height ? Even though the engine i rebuilt had nothing wrong with it ,I made sure the oil cooler (along with everything else ) was chucked through my engineers "hot wash" to make sure everything was über clean and bought a new oil pump/block bolts But I did spend out on uprated internals Apr ,acl,cossie,Mahle, ect... so wanted to protect my investment a bit Let us know what you find and hope it's not too serious

Is the screech a bit like when you blow through a blade of grass like a harmonica ? As it does sound like a boost leak probably from the intake pipe or fmic pipework. I assume you have a boost gauge ,where is the vac line it's getting a reading from plumbed into ? Ideally these need to be fitted directly from the inlet manifold . Or tee'd into a pipe directly from the inlet in order to get a correct reading. The pre v3 (97) map sensor will only work up to 1.2 bar and cause fuel cut after that ,even when mapped and the boost map threshold is increased (so most mappers will suggest that you upgrade the early map sensors) Has it been mapped and if so who and what method ? As classic ecu's do self learn to a certain degree but if you've got a decat turbo back ,fmic and intake mods ,it would probably breathing out of the standard ecus map parameters

You can fit 2ltr heads to a 2.5ltr bottom end as there's quite a few 2.5 classics running 2ltr heads to retain their original inlets/loom . I think the 2ltr heads would probably need a bit of machine work due to the 2.5 ltr having bigger dia pistons (but I'm not 100% sure) You'd also need someone who knows the piston bowl and head chamber sizes to calculate the correct head gasket thickness needed to achieve the 8.5.1 ideal compression ratio . As said above in standard guise the 2.5 is the weaker engine but when "pinned" and forged they do make nice figures [emoji6]

Forgot to update on here that I've changed the steering wheel over and fitted some of the spec c peddles .Also managed to drill ,tap and relocate the actuator bracket so the turbo coldside is now clocked Here's the old momo course wheel,which is up for sale (with a momo boss for direct classic fitment ) And the new momo jet steering wheel and a few of the peddles fitted Clocked coldside aps sr40 turbo Can't wait till spring to get the engine mods fitted and mapped in [emoji4]

Well I'm only running just shy of 350hp atm, so I guess the suspension mods ,4wd and the fact that the classics are fairly light made a hell'va difference in the twisties then [emoji6] So I chucked a sponge at the old girl this morning for doing me proud

Works do last night ,in the ar5e end of nowhere and my mates motor spat it's dummy out [emoji57] So i had to take the scooby and stay sober [emoji19] Had a nice chat with a bloke in a late rs focus (which was mapped ,anti lag ect) he said he liked the look of my old scooby [emoji106] He left shortly after me and proceeded to try n push me above the 30 limit by tailgating me through the villages [emoji57] But once she'd warmed up and we hit the national speed limit on the twisty b road I lost sight of him in the rear view mirror [emoji5] Well until shortly after we hit the next village ,when I was doing 30 again and he thundered past . Dunno what sort hp 58 plate focus rs's run or if they're 4wd but the only complaint I got from my passenger saying his neck hurt today [emoji23]

I've only ever used 3 reputable mappers First mapper was Duncan ,unfortunately my personal experience wasn't too good as a dyno a couple of months later showed it was seriously over fuelling. Which causes bore wash ,piston wear ,bad economy and drowns the power with fuel. I couldn't fault the fact that he gladly re tweeked my map twice for nothing but he was the only one who had to re tweek . However most of the newage scoobs on my local forum have been mapped by him without issue (so I assumed it was just my luck) Mind you both Simon roe (rip ) and my current mapper Clive attowe tend to get right first time and make sure I'm happy before paying them . Simon had got into mapping subarus after being involved in mapping the euro fighter aircraft. [emoji41] Clive attowe has won more awards for mapping than I care to remember and has been mapping from his own dyno for decades [emoji6] Forest ,Carr and Hepburn all seem to have a very good rep although I have no personal experience with them . Right now that can of worms is open why don't we have a little discussion about oil grades as well [emoji16]

It's definitely not a phase 1 v1/v2 and hasn't got a top entry turbo . if the injectors are topfeed and blue it's based on a bugeye If the injectors are side feed and yellow it's based on a v5/v6 phase 2 classic stants knows more about the foz varients tbh I've never owned one