savage bulldogs

Shame your not closer ,i've probably got some[emoji57] if you phone luke @ ipc first thing you'll have em by lunchtime tomorrow 😉 Oh make sure you use genuine upipe gaskets cos it will blow like a cheap hoe otherwise If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome hope you get it sorted soon. As for the graphs ,when you said new tdo5 in your mod list is it a genuine one ? It's just with yellow injectors I wouldn't expect a tdo5 16g to tail off at the top of the Rev range and hit 1 bar a bit sooner If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

We're always glad to help out if possible , shame I haven't got the v3 anymore (tin worm r.i.p) otherwise I could take a better pic Obviously ignore the boost solinoid in that pic, as this was after I fitted the 3 port to my v3 uk . The map sensor and air density sensor are plumped in standard though 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Trust me I've made a few mistakes along the Way [emoji57] But a man who has never made mistakes has probably never really made anything [emoji6] How close are you to firing it up ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah thats just my opinion from my experience and what I've read , I've got not seen any before and after rolling results and I run a 3" k&n cone filter due to my fmic set up [emoji23] But there's a bit of space where the abs "isn't " and a hole in my inner wing . If newage have a resonator under the drivers wing (like classics ) you can cut the restrictive part out and get a bit more roar from a panel filter and drawing more cold air from under the wing [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Colder denser air creates a hotter combustion and adds hp ,hence why the standard air box draws air from outside the engine bay . Induction cones do tend to draw hot air from the cramped engine bay unless accompanied by a cold feed . So a free flowing panel filter and air box resonator delete is the norm unless you have to remove the air box to fit a fmic [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I think the 8s ecu is a uk version Is yours a v3/v4 uk car ? Cos if yours is a jdm there's a few differences in pins Cam ,crank and possibly a fuel pump wire (to do with the UK having a imoblizer ) But if you've got the standard loom the standard ecu should be plug n play If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Here's a pic of a v3 boost control bracket The big bore red vacumm in my pic goes to the charcoal canister. The black plastic elbow at the other end of that goes to a hole under the ribbed pipe that runs between the maf and intake pipe ( under the inlet manifold). In your pic The bit on the red n black vac line does look like a manual boost valve (as stants said) if it is bin it [emoji6] The little pipe off the charcoal canister in the last pic is a drain pipe which just pokes into a hole in the chassis leg . I can't remember off hand if the rest of the vacuum lines are correct for a v3/v4 as it's been 3yrs or so since I owned a standard v3 [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sounds like it's making boost , blowing the spark out and missing. Instead of not holding boost because it's leaking then . Which is what mine did before the newage coil pack conversion but then You could see mine missing on the dyno .As it made boost, then cut boost , the afr rich'ned and then it made boost again Classic single coil packs are prone to cracking around the mounting holes and the insulation getting brittle due to over tighening,heat and age . So your better off buying new ones or doing a newage coil pack conversion, rather than buying second hand imo . If it's misfiring on idle sometimes I think the ecu increases idle to stop it stalling. Cos when I accidentally plugged my front and rear coil packs in back to front [emoji16] It run as ruff as a bears ar5e, spat flames and idled at 2k , I was surprised it run at all tbh lol Hopefully the stronger spark will sort it [emoji41] And if it does I'd keep the old turbo as it probably wasn't the issue in the first place [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You'd be better off buying the correct second hand ecu for your version for about £ 40 off a breaker If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Generally if it's a misfire it will make boost and hold it but it cuts and the rr results will show a "blip" in the graph . His choice of wording "it won't hold boost " makes me think it's either ..... "blow by " rings are worn letting boost into the sump . Valves are not sealing properly letting boost escape through the ports of the head . Or hopefully the cheaper option a boost leak after the turbo, ie fmic pipework or joiners leaking boost . This is normally easily spotted on a dyno as when under load you'd hear a shhhh or whistling noise. Ask them to do a compression test on the engine and smoke test on the intake to rule out the above My brvs v1sti ,mine and 2 wrx's that belong to friends all make over 330hp with pretty much the same mods . Yours should have about 260 hp standard [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It can be done ,cos I've seen a newage dash in a classic but I don't think it's a straight swap. What version is yours ? I think the v3 sti has slightly different clocks If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Not without a complications in a v1 or v2, as the early classics have a cable drive speedo and v3 onwards have a electronic speedo drive sender in the gearbox. They fit the facelift interior in a v4 and a preface in the v3 . Although The engine and ecu plug type is the same in a v3/v4 (so the v4 dash might fit in a v3) I personally don't know if the plugs are the same on the back of preface and facelift clocks as I've never looked into it myself I'm afraid If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

That part list on a healthy wrx is 300hp + all day . As Geoff said a compression test would rule out bore wear /failure. Even brand new Standard single classic coil packs will struggle to spark reliably at 1.3 bar. Pre v3 map sensors will only operate up to 1.2 bar (and then hit boost cut) Is it holding boost ? As a leak from the inlet ,fmic pipework or upipe/downpipe can cause a drop in power . Have you uprated the fuel pump ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Tighten your plugs up properly and see if it still does it when you turn it over by hand . If you're confident it's timed up properly and you've got a inlet on it, You can pull the crank sensor plug off (to stop it starting) and turn it over with the ignition key [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The air temp fault could be a old code stored from a previous fault that had been fixed but they hadn't reset your ecu afterwards . If the eml light comes on I'd have thought it should have flashed up a code . What's the year / model and what are you using to read /reset the codes ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You probably wouldn't hear the air escaping from the big empty spark plug hole but you would hear the shhhh as it squeezes out of the tiny gap around a loose plug at part compression (higher pressure ) Maybe ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah it sounds like it's ok but I wouldn't make a habit of turning the engine over without any plugs in (unless you're in a clean environment ) as it can suck debris into the bore . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you turn a engine over without any spark plugs in the bore is open so on the "compression" stroke it can't compress (easy to turn over). With the plugs in tight it will be compressing to a 8.5.1 ratio (more difficult to turn over by hand) If the plugs are only hand tight it will start to compress but when it reaches a certain pressure it can blow by the loose plugs (making a shhhh noise) [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Boost gauges do serve a purpose (other than just looking good ) as if you get a sudden lack of power you can see if it's still making positive boost (to rule out a boost leak). imo there's much more important things to keep a eye on afr ,knock, oil pressure ect . But Unless your mapper has set the knock ,air flow and boost warnings up, so it flashes the eml light if you exceed your maps parameters, I'd keep the controller in view. you can change what the hand controller displays in the "monitor" section . I've currently got mine showing injector induity and knock ,so after a bit of fun down a slip lane I can check the peak values and know that it's still running ok . But I've also got a avcr boost controller and 4 in 1 gauge as I like to know what's happening "live" whilst driving [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Try giving mark agin at lateral performance a call for a price on a genuine pink box exedy clutch kit . I've bought 3 of these and they're fitted into 3 different scoobs and at 300hp ,330hp and 350hp they're all performing well with oe peddle feel . As for cost 16 months ago they were £275 delivered If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah these early classics are getting a bit thin on the ground in the UK . As most were broke for parts and the pre 94 ones we're robbed of the cdb's. I've got a few preface interior plastics but they're from a uk version 3 which has a clock instead of the cupholder above the stereo If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You can get some standard plastic trim from import car parts If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yours should have the "pre facelift " interior and tbh I'm not sure where you can get genuine carbon trim from . Probably the best bet would be to pick up some second hand plastics and get them either wrapped or hydro dipped . As for the cluster bulbs they just "twist" into the back of the clocks . I will be removing my pre face clocks soon (once the weather's picked up) as I need to find a fault with the speed sensor output and I'll gladly take a few pics . If you can't wait a few weeks till i tackle mine download the pdf file for your version of interior off here to help with removal .... http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hope it's nothing to serious and it cuts out with a bit of polish . just remember they do stick a thicker coat of paint on the turbo versions....... so it probably wouldn't hapen again if you did make the leap [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊