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Found 20 results

  1. I have a Subaru GX Sport Estate 2003 and when I change down to fourth gear it makes a grinding noise. It will only grind when moving down to fourth gear and I am wondering if this could be a problem with the gear box. The rest of the gears work fine it is only when I am approaching a big hill and need more power and decide to change down then I hear the grinding. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks 🙂
  2. Hi, i just picked up my first subaru, its a '08 Impreza with a N/A EJ20 engine and 4EAT tranny. The mileage is around 95000 miles. It drives like a charm, but im having some minor issues with it im hoping to get rid off, both for peace of mind, and to hopefuly save some money in the long run. So to the symptoms: 1. The car is vibrating a little on idle (in both D, N and P) and i sometimes almost get the feeling its about to stall (never has though, might just be flashbacks to an astra i once owned). Idle seems stable at around 700-800rpm. 2. The car also has a very noticeable vibration around 2000rpm. I only notice this in N and P, at a standstill. Cannot guarantee that it isnt present while driving though. 3. And now maybe to my biggest concern.. The car has a fairly low (aka barely able to hear it while inside the car, over the fan) clacking/tacking noise. Im in a very cold country, but only hear the sound when the engine is warm, and is idling after a drive. Im sort of wondering if it is some sort of tappet noise. Ive checked the oil and its just over the max line on the dipstick while warm. 4. Maybe related, or maybe not, but i feel like there might be coming just a tad too much white smoke from it, with a weak smell of gas. It might just be steam though (as i live in a cold area). I cant feel any blowby through the oilcap hole or the oil dipstick hole, but havent been able to compression test the actual cylinders yet. The coolant temperature is around 94C at idle. Also ive bought some new sparkplugs just to see if that will help anything (when not sure, always start with the cheapest solution, right?) Sorry for a long first post. Any ideas or pointers to common flaws that might be the cause is appericated! P. S. Ive read up a little, and found out that the 4th cylinder lacks something in cooling compared to the rest, any solutions to this, that might increase the lifetime of the engine?
  3. Hi all, I am new to the forum today as I purchased my first subaru blobeye wrx 1 month ago, I had the common strut knock problem and also a spring went on me so I decided to go down the coilover route, I purchased some tein street advance z coilovers from demontweeks and had them fitted by my local garage. I am now having terrible noises coming from the rear since 3 days ago when they were fitted, does anyone have any idea why? Or have experienced this before? I've had a look and it looks as if the top rubber 'hat'? .. I think.. is loose and no where near the spring? I really struggle to understand this stuff but it just doesn't look right, any help would be highly appreciated. I'll leave a picture here to show you what I mean. Cheers, John
  4. Hi. I have a seibon Carbon bonnet on my 2005 blobeye however the current washer jet nozzles seem to be too small and move about in the new bonnets holes, are larger ones available and does anyone know from where or have any ideas. Gratefull for your responses.
  5. So my classic has been sitting for around 2 months and I went to drive it and it ran out of fuel after I topped it up with £10 worth of fuel it failed to start. This has been put down to at least one injector which has sucked up a grain of dirt or something and is stuck open. Is there a way to tell which injector/injectors are stuck open and need to be replaced? I've been told to remove spark plugs and when the ignition is turned on fuel will continue to leak from the stuck open injector? is this the case?
  6. Hey, In first case i'm sorry about my English , it isn't the best. So there are a 2003 Blobeye WRX. New in the family. I have problem with the ABS light. Im just put the car to ignition and the Check Engine + ABS lamps are lighting. If i start the engine --> shift to the 1 gear --> the car starts to move --> the lights are goes OFF from the dash. BUT sometimes they are not leave me alone and stay, just lighting until i drive. If i do Ign Off - On after it, the lights goes OFF again. When driving there are no problem with abs or anything its error-free. When i bought it, the previous owner said that he were at subaru service center and the diagnostic is not showed any problem. Mods on the car, the speedometer cluster changed to STI one (mph) , the originally wrx was km/h. There are a full HKS exhaust system under the car from the start to the end, with afterburner system. Middle console was changed for STI too. Oil and boost meter installed too in the car. I was read some stories about the wrong subaru ABS, pedal falls, system failures, car crashes etc... Im a little bit afraid is an evolving problem in my car. This is the cause why i wrote here, maybe someone met with this problem and can help me in the repair (or can calm me down). Thanks :)
  7. Right so as suggested, was filling up tonight after work. Always fill it to the brim, and I mean literally to the brim, like fuel up through the filler neck so it's nearly sloshing out when I put the cap back on. So I normally add a few more quid once it clicks off. Anyway, did the same as always and put the pump back and the heard what sounded like a leak, so I got under the car to have a look...this is what I found. A massive puddle of fuel. Now, it could be because I overfilled it, however I've done this multiple times before and never had this problem? Maybe the filler neck has rotted out as it seems to be drained from there when I went back and looked? I am not interested in dropping the tank if I can avoid it as it looks a massive pain in the ****, plus I've got a full tank of fuel in there at the moment too. It appears to be coming from near the top for sure. Only other thing I could think of is the seal around where you access the pump at has gone/isn't right from when I changed to her Walbro pump, although I would of thought that would of shown up earlier as it's been in for a few month now. Pics below. I've got video with some more close ups if anyone is interested in seeing that lemme know and I'll pop a text through?
  8. So basically this is my problem...can't seem to figure it out. (Sorry can't be arsed to type it out) http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/general-maintenance-troubleshooting-accidents/134330512-stiff-steering-when-turning.html#/topics/134330512?page=3 Fluid level looks good, belt looks alright...could be rack and pinion or rack failure, but it was pretty sudden (didn't do it, then did it the next day). Only other thing, got advisories on MOT about the ball joint boots being corroded, but they said they were ok still? Can't see them diminishing in less than a week? 🤔😕
  9. I have a 94 WRX import My central locking didn't work when i first bought the car 2 years ago but was easily fixed by a second hand central locking box. Now it seems it has gone again only this time a new box hasn't worked. I first realized this after i had finished soundproofing the doors and when i finished for the day i locked the car. When i came back to it in the morning i opened the rear right door to get something out the back and the alarm started going off however the drivers door remained locked so i thought i have maybe done something while soundproofing the drivers door. The connection to the central locking box located under the passenger footwell has corrosion in the box and on the end of the connectors of the wiring so i got a replacement box and new connectors on the end of the wiring yet still nothing. There seems to be a wire that runs inside the door that isn't getting power but i don't know if this has anything to do with central locking. I will add picture of it below. It has always been abit temperamental like if you slightly moved the box the car would unlock or wouldn't work again till you moved it again yet now i cant get anything out of it. Have checked every fuse as i didn't know which one it could be and nothing wrong with any of them. This is a pain as I've spent a day trying to sort this out and got nowhere does anyone have any ideas? The drivers door is the only one that locks and unlocks. The picture below is a wire i found plugged in but doesn't seem to be getting any power.
  10. In low gear like 1st and 2nd the car seems abit jerky even when you try to be careful with lifting off the clutch. The clutch also feel pretty heavy to press in compared to other cars I've driven. Just wondering if this is normal or something going wrong. I had the clutch and gearbox replaced when i got the car but both were replaced with second hand parts that were in better condition.
  11. Hey guys, I think my TPS has been messed with before I got the car & it is giving me troubles, all of the symptoms of a TPS fault. What is the best way to test this? I know I use a mulitmeter for this but I would like to know what readings it should be giving at Closed throttle & Open Throttle, and also which pins to put the multimeter on to ensure I make no mistakes if I need to make an adjustment! It is a 2005 Subaru Impreza GX Sport 2.0 NON TURBO Thanks guys, all help much appreciated!
  12. My 2005 Subaru Impreza 2.0 GX Sport N/A has had a misfire for the last couple of months, it is worse when under load and if you put your foot down it splutters and it very juddery, worse at lower rpm. I have taken it to be looked at by a garage and he plugged his computer and he told me it is the throttle body, and that it needs replacing. I am trying to source one, but i am going by the code on the one currently on (RT60 3-70) but i cant find one either new or used with the same code. Will any throttle body from an EJ20 engine fit and work or does it need to have the same code as the one currently on? I assume my engine is the EJ20 anyway, i am fairly new to subaru's, so if you could also clarify this for me also.. Reg - GK55 XVJ Model - Impreza 2.0 N/A GX Sport Problem - Misfire at low RPM, sometimes a very rough idle & worse under load & the more you put your foot down.. Told throttle body at fault It is a WRX STI REPLICA by the way. I have included images of the car and code on the TB. Thanks guys all help/advice/information VERY appreciated
  13. So now the weather is heating up abit its getting a little annoying that my heater will only blow cold air even when set to cold. I don't have air con but i should still be able to use the cold air setting shouldn't i?
  14. After months of messing about trying to find the problem i took my car to Steve Simpson at ZI Motorsport as he created the simtek ECU that i have. After around 4 hours on the dyno he managed to work out that the cam and crank sensors were out of time this is something no one else had seen but its all finally sorted and the car came out with 312bhp :). Basically the first guy who mapped it didn't know what he was doing even though is qualified. Highly recommend Steve and ZI Motorsport they were a great help and very fair pricing they are located in Wrexham, Wales.
  15. So for those who have been following this problem i am still let to have it fixed , basically when the engine gets hot and i get up to around 60-70 mph or use a lot of boost then it misfires and everytime i try and reach these speeds when the engine is hot. It also uses an insane amount of fuel like 100 miles a tank motorway driving so there is something very wrong here. The car also idles for an extra second or 2 everytime you rev it. I have had the coil packs replaced with 4 brand new genuine subaru. I have replaced all 4 spark plugs and checked there fitment. I have had several mechanics look over the car and it has baffled them ( these guys know a fair amount about scoobys). This has lead me to think that the mapper may not have had much of an idea about what he was doing.Firstly he only got 300bhp out of my classic when I've seen others with the same mods having 315-330. I am taking the car to see a gentlemen called Steve Simpson who owns the simtek ECU i have fitted so I'm hoping it was just the mapper was crap and Steve can sort me out. Just to put my mind at ease does it sound possible that the misfiring when hot and massive fuel consumption along with the bad idling could be a result of a bad map? The car was completely fine before it was mapped, Cheers for reading through this any help would be greatly appreciated.
  16. Got my car back from Eurospec performance garage today i was told it was all fixed and it didn't have a misfiring problem anymore. The car is producing 300bhp as he mapped it with the engine age in mind but I'm very happy with 300. The car seemed fine on the drive home but as soon as i got on a dual carriageway and thought i would test out my new power i got to 80mph and the car started to misfire, i couldn't believe it i have been without the car for a month and spent over £1200 and yet it still has the problem. This is the list of things the garage done to fix the misfiring problem 4 new coilpacks Fit and wired AIT sensor the car now runs without the maf sensor checked condition of cambelt new spark plugs Only seems to misfire when the engine heats up or if you go over 70-80mph but he was able to map it so i have no idea whats going on. Really don't know what to do now I've spent al my savings on this already and it still has the problem so i anyone has any ideas please share.
  17. Right so my classic went to Eurospec for a simtek ECU fitted and mapped and came back with 220bhp and various other problems that i will list below. .Misfires on high boost and when you go over around 60mph .uses TWICE as much fuel I'm talking like 100 motorway miles on 1 TANK!! .Idles at 2000 or 3000rpm and stays there until you move off .Remote start using clifford system start up then cuts out and has to start up again All of these problems didn't happen with the old standard ecu , the mapper has said it could be coil packs or a crank sensor?? he doesn't seem to know what wrong and says he will have another look at it this week but I'm pretty short for money now having already forked out £600 for a ECU and £350 for it mapped. I need help now if anyone has any ideas what the problem could be.
  18. Car went into Eurospec performance garage for a remap yesterday it was going to be an all day job i was told as i was getting a simtek ECU fitted.Got a phone call 3 hours later saying there was a problem with the bar only reaching 0.7 then letting it all out? now i have no idea what this means but the guy told me they are keeping it till monday to try and sort it out. now i know its to do with the turbo and the boost but thats about it so if someone could explain what he is talking about and is it costing me money them keeping it longer? Already paid 650 for ecu and it was agreed 350 for the remap itself Cheers Brad
  19. Since I've had my classic since july the heating hasn't worked , if you turn it on cold air still blows out but doesn't heat up , wasn't a problem in summer but now i wouldn't mind having some heating and demisting the windscreen is becoming a problem
  20. Hi I have just had a big problem occur in my 1997 subaru impreza turbo 2000 around 130k miles on the clock,had a recent engine rebuild but no receipts to prove it I have pics of under the car after taking off the plastic cover and here are the symptoms... Heard a loud crunch while driving about 25 mph changing into 3rd gear, then a very loud clicking sound, i pulled up immediately thinking it was either my gearbox or clutch, possibly even the front diff, if this car has one, got a tow home. when the car was tested again about 3 days later it sound great when sitting with the engine on but as soon as you start to drive off there is a loud clicking/ scraping noise, the car struggles to get into gear and appears to be jumping every 20 yards, not sure if it is trying to get into reverse but it sure feel like it. anyway after a few yards I drove it home and not touched it since. have noticed oil leaking from what appears to be under the turbo but I think this is just because the cover diverts the oil to this area, gearbox oil seem to be nearly empty but honestly don't know how to fill this up, cant find any cap to pop oil into it but what is there seem to be very clean if not brand new, There seems to be no oil on the bottom of turbo so i guess the oil that is leaking seems to be coming from what looks like the power steering column? but doesn't explain the problems with the gears. all liquids seem fine. oil is a little black but no bits or other substance in it, coolant is coolant only no sllme also Pics of under the car below