savage bulldogs

How many ports has it got stants ? Cos although there's 3 main breather outlets 2 of them are "t" 'd together on the oe breather system . 1 head breather goes into the "y" pipe off the crank breather which leads to the valve under the throttle body . The other head breather goes to the turbo intake after the maf (this one needs to be blanked off when fitting the catch can ) So when i fitted my current one i used a 2 port and "t"d the head ones together . the only reason i could think it would make any difference not to connect the 2 heads together would be if it needs to equalise the pressure between crank and head but if so why are they not all connected together? Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

Nice jigsaw 😆 I've always taken them to bits before trying to put one together, so credit to you for getting so far fella 👍 The factory vac lines in these motors are pretty complex and tbh most of mine is now in the bin (charcoal canister,purge system and oil breather system) I've got a few pics of v3/v4 inlet with the oe loom with vac lines attached and a few of a standard v3 bay (I'll chuck em at the bottom of my post) As for the boost vac lines you can run a single vac line from actuator to turbo outlet then plug /cap any other boost vac lines (that suck) and it should run at "actuated boost" (about 0.5 bar) .which would be safer than letting the ecu or boost controller trying to run high boost untill you at least get the afr checked (preferably dynoed) . I'm fairly sure the top port (closest to the throttle body when fitted) on the purge valve goes to the top of the throttle body . i think the bottom port goes to the vac hard line that runs under the inlet too the charcoal cannister I've got a few more pics including some of the charcoal cannister but unfortunately im now running a custom phase 1 inlet so can't take any more ,let us know how you get on and if you get her running try to stay off boost until you know its running right [emoji6] Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

Guess I can expect a few whats apps soon then [emoji39] How much was it stants? cos I'm thinking of relocating mine and like the idea of it being baffled as it might ease the smell a bit

I think the scd blobeye jdm sti bottom end is at its limits at 450hp but im unsure what the limits are on a odb with forged internals ,although i had read that pre v4 classic rods are known to bend at 380hp . I think most uk turbos only get mapped to 320hp but whether thats due to deck type , internals or cams i couldn't tell you . Any idea what hp you want ?

Nice figures 👍sti power for the cost of a zorst and remap 😎 Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

She's 22 yrs old in a few months, so it's not as mint as I'd like when you get close up [emoji57] it definitely keeps me busy trying though [emoji5] I probably post to many pics of the scoob on here and just assumed that you'd like a few of me instead gambit ..... After all you did admit to lurking in the bushes outside my house[emoji16] if they stopped blowing !Removed! hondas up on the 1/4 mile and making me start /stop my approach i might not have got so slap happy with the go pro buttons lol

That's a good price for 560's[emoji106] but they'll be top feed injectors so unfortunately they won't fit classic side feed rails [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Could be a faulty actuator or boost solinoid opening the waste gate to soon ? they'll only get 1.2 bar from the standard map sensor unless they replace and rescale the map sensor for one off later v3 onwards If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I scoured the net for the cheapest prices and asked luke at icp to try to "price match" them [emoji6] think full gasket/timing roller set ,gates kevlar belt, acl bearings, block bolts ,Apr head bolts and it cost just under £ 1k . I then got cossie head gaskets and fluids else where . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Cheers Ant [emoji106] it's probably cost £450 and my time for the rails ,lines,fpr,inlet,paint and conversion pipes. Even if it's not running the power I'd hoped atm at least it looks pretty from a distance lol . Jay I had thought about moving the battery to the boot but I might fit a swirl pot in there ,to stop it fuel cutting under 1/2 a tank on righthand bends . It's not that I don't trust myself with fuel lines but I'm not a fan of having them in inclosed spaces with things that can spark . Plus the Mrs would get the hump if I couldn't fit the holiday cases in the boot of my daily [emoji39] I definitely need to sort out this speed sensor output issue......cos It's starting to get a bit busy with boost sensors under the bonnet [emoji16] oe map sensor /3 port solinoid, apexi fc lead and map sensor, apexi avcr map sensor ,avcr 3 port boost solinoid but until I've fitted everything and relocated the catch can I don't know exactly where everything is going [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Ideally if you can afford it ,phase 2's resized to 650cc would give headroom to 420hp . I'm running phase 2 nismos which are a oe Nissan injector that fit into classics with a tab filed off the injector plug [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Phase 1 and 1.5 injectors are the same so are a direct fit up to v4 (a bit cheaper ) but they're older and can only be ultrasonically cleaned and flow matched. Phase 2 are newer tech and although you need phase adapters to fit them (extra money ) you can get them resized (made bigger cc) as well as cleaned/flow matched Both phases of yellow 440's will max out at 340hp ish (with supporting mods ) on standard fuel pressure

Although running the apexi boost kit add on gives the apexi fc ecu better control over the boost I still wasn't hitting the 1.58 bar target everytime in 3rd or bellow 😞 after a bit of research i decided a avcr boost controller might help as it has a gear judge function which compensates for the variations in manifold and vacumm pressure when the engines under greater loads Electrics isn't my thing to be honest but I'd managed the newage coil pack conversion and I can solder/weld . I had the wiring diagram and ecu pinout list for my version in the apexi avcr box , So i set about labeling up the wires and identifying the ecu pinouts I stripped back a bit of insulation on each wire coming off the pinouts and soldered the wires into the loom . If I didn't have the apexi fc controller I would have left it on standard "scramble " mode (0.5 bar) and let the mapper set it up to make sure the fuelling is correct before changing the boost settings 😉 The hand controller displays the boost target and duty cycle that attowe had set up so I entered the same values into the avcr and took her for a spin Boost kicked in about 400 rpm sooner but I can't get the "gear judge " function to work until I resolve the lack of speed sensor output to the ecu .I think it's something to do with a data monitor that's not fully connected under the dash . I'm getting fed up of not being able to work on the car during the bad weather but it was a whole 9 °in sunny Suffolk today . So I thought I'd offer up the parallel fuel rails and fuel lab pressure regulator Looks like I might have put the alternator in the wrong place 😂

I'm bored so I'm off to the man cave to find somthing scooby to doo [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Is it just sound your loosing or power to the head unit ? Have you tapped into the ignition live while fitting gauges and disturbed a wire while fitting the brace ? Maybe try removing the head unit from the cage plugging it back in and giving the plug a wiggle while it's playing to rule out the plug . Or running a temporary earth to the head unit to see if that resolves it If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem bud 👍 Being a 95 it will be have a phase 1 fuel set up which means ...... Phase 1.5 yellows will drop straight in or phase 2 yellows will need phase adapters (about £40) to make em fit . You won't want to drive it far once the injectors are fitted as the fuelling will be miles out ,so your best off fitting them just before you remap [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah if your running sub 300hp (especially with a small tdo4) you can cause lag when fitting a fmic. As you've got a bigger core and about 4 mtrs of extra pipework to fill back up with boost before it reaches the inlet manifold. When running a bigger turbo and mapped correctly the fmic to tmic lag difference is minimal V3/v4 tmic's are good for 330hp ish before the heatsoak becomes a issue and you need a fmic [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Does this discount apply to the nano drive 10 w 60 ? As I need oil ,Mahle filter and fuel filter from you If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Where did you get the passenger side heater matrix hose from Dan ? Cos my current samco one is weeping a bit on a bend [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My engine has only done 15k since I built it 3yrs ago and been in and out of a v3 uk and then back into the v1sti so I've managed to keep it clean by just wiping it over and couldn't advise you what to look out for when steam cleaning. If you're bored or want to get yourself familiar with the early classics have a squint at my sticky build thread, bud [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I went for polar black when I had the rotas refurbished But I've kept the plastics black If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I bought some firestones from my tyres .com they delivered them to the wheel refurbers within 2 days and i didn't pay for fitting . As I got them fitted once the wheels were finished for free as it was included in the refurb price [emoji41] Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

The v1sti left the factory as a wrx then was sent to subaru technica international to be hand built into a sti .hence why they have a build number and say wrx on the log book[emoji6] Mine is the same year but a bit earlier ,when they only made 100 per month Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I haven't tried loads of different tyres and I do tend to scrub Uber soft compound tyres out on the edges before I've really done any miles .So I normally only get middle compound and cost tyres tbh . I've had a look where I got them from and I think they were the sz90's on this page ...... http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=88296795.110.8868&sowigan=So&Breite=215&Quer=45&Felge=17&Speed=W&kategorie=6&Marke=&ranzahl=4&tyre_for=PKW&x_tyre_for=&suchen=Show%20tyres&sort_by=brand&rsmFahrzeugart=PKW&search_tool=standard&weiter=30..... They deliver to your door or tyre fitter of your choice .have a squint at the other ones on there to get a idea of cost and choice but bear in mind I don't know much about tyres [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've got firestone firehawks on the front (which seem ok) And some "ying sing ditch finders" on the back as they were on the car when I got it and still have plenty of tread [emoji16] the back end steps out before the front atm (which I prefer ) but I'll probably stick some new firestones on the front when the ditch finders are done .As I don't seem to be scrubbing the corners off them as much as the previous kuhmo extradas A Whiteline rear arb is a worthwhile cheap handling upgrade to lessen body roll If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊