savage bulldogs

I've bought a few brake bits off bob @ aztec always seemed to be a helpful, genuine fella . Don't know if he's moving premises or something but doubt it's anything dodgy. Try dropping him a email and ask for reassurance it will arive in time . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sort any leaks ,Plugs, fluids ,filters and a dyno run is always a good starting point . Aways glad to help when I hear someone investing time and money in a classic (rather than breaking one) [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm not sure if the pump will keep priming as it might stop if it's reached the correct pressure for the fpr and the engine isn't running (using fuel ) The ecu codes might help diagnose a fault but I'm unsure what could be mechanically wrong seeing as it did run for a while (assumably without any smoke or noise) . If the pump primes I'd say it's a spark / electrical issue (sounds like it's getting fuel) But you could check if the spark plugs are wet after cranking . If it cranks over and you can't suss how to code check the is a old school way to check it's firing[emoji6] unplug a ht lead and put a old spark plug in it . Use a pair of insulated pliers and earth the end of the plug and get someone to crank it over while you visually check for a spark . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm fairly impressed with my current set up (for road use) it seems to soak up the pot holes and speed bumps but doesn't "roll " much in the twisties. Elbaich springs (30 mm drop on a wrx) Standard wrx shocks Group n top mounts Whiteline arb Droplinks Roll centre correction kit . I was going to buy 2 new front shocks and front group n top mounts to match the new rears I fitted last year. But the rear arches have been rolled on my scoob and I'm bored, so I'm toying with lowering it a bit. I've been looking at meister r coilovers priced at about £750 . So you boys that are running em ..... would I be able to run a medium quality coilover ,drop it 40mm and not shake the crap out of my crate of beer on the way back from asdas hitting potholes ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome Seems to be a few tidy looking classics joining up lately , nice choice [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's flashed the eml up it should have a code stored ,so +1 for a code check and ecu reset . As it might be a cheap fix and could just be moisture/condensation on something electrical from being sat a while , old fuel or something that will go away once the standard air box is in place and the ecu has reset and relearn't the standard air intake If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Don't suppose you've got any info on the car ? Cos I've got that monitor screen half wired in and tucked up under my dash (the one under the double din stereo) And I don't know whether it's worth wiring back in properly or removing it ,as I'm not sure what functions it has [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It could be a imobilizer /alarm issue i think uk ecus have the imobilizer built inside . Is the horn constant or beeping ? (maybe alarm if its not constant ) have you checked the horn isn't going to earth (wired up right) Is there any paperwork for a alarm "back up code " ? Have you connected all the engine earths, especially the main one on the top starter bolt and the engine loom to inlet earth Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I've never seen 2.5 heads myself its just Simon roe said a customer put the wrong length plugs in a 2.5 conversion before (so I know there's a difference in plug length ) I think Most scooby conversion use the original cars version heads .As these mean you can retain the "cars" original inlet manifold ,auxiliaries, loom and ecu but there are conversion inlet spacers available that let you change "phases" of inlets Do you know what phase it's running? The reg means it should be a v5/v6 phase 2 with side feed injectors. My best punt would be to whip one of the plugs out and either measure ,read the part number on it or take it down to a local parts place and get some heat 7's of the same size If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Blue'ing of the discs or uneven pad wear is normally a sign a piston is stuck . You should be able to push the pistons in a bit by hand and make sure all the anti rattle pads and pins are clean (to allow the pads to move freely ) Try ringing alyn at as performance or Ian at godspeed for a quote and check the disc size with them but I think it's 293mm for the 4 pots If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As you fill scoobs up (from dry) you have to make sure the heater controls are on hot ,squeeze all the pipework and make sure the expansion tank on the inlet "never" gets sucked dry hmmm mm. ....... sucked dry . Sorry where was I [emoji23] before you try again give all the hoses a squeeze and make sure the header tank is full and the overflow bottle (near the battery ) is on the min mark. listen for the pump priming the system before you start cranking it over ,if it doesn't prime check both fuse boxes (one under the bonnet /one in the drivers kick panel ) best of luck bud 👍 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Edited this as I was out when I replied. Well done on getting it fired up [emoji41] hopefully it's something simple to getting it running again. There's a how too sticky thread on here It works on a sort of morse code flashing of the eml light. It shows you how to do a ecu reset as well Air locks can be a pain on these too ,was there any heat inside the car ie could they're a air lock in the heater matrix ? As for the sensor and loom plug pins , fine wet n dry sand paper to remove any corrosion that might be causing a lack in contact .Then a spray of electrical contact cleaner and a wipe over . Do the code check first to see if it might pin point something as intermittent electrical faults area isn't my forte (I'm just a spanner monkey lol) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Did the fan cut in ? Have you definitely plugged both the the ecu temp and gauge temp in on the water crossover pipe (silver pipe at the back of the alternator ) Did it eat the battery by jut cranking it over but it wouldn't start ? If so can you hear the fuel pump prime when the ignition is on ? Are the cam and crank sensors making a good connection with the loom plugs ? Have you done a ecu self code check ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Glad you've sorted it and a magnet on a stick is a must for any tool box when you're working on scoobies ☺ Can you not remove the !Removed! guard from under the front arch to get to them ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Helicoil would be the best option as I don't know how well threadlock would hold up with the heat . You might be lucky enough that if you run a tap through the thread it might sort it . It does look like you've used a old gasket on the upipe [emoji16] both ends of the upipe are prone to being a pain to seal on assembly . You'd also be better off wrapping the headers and upipe to lessen the heatsoak .So if you do fire it up then decide to remove and refit the headers bear that in mind [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I use a free photobucket account, upload the pics to there then copy and paste the "img" code on to here If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I'm even asking her for diy jobs atm [emoji15] [emoji40] But only to get em done before scooby season starts [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bin there ,done that and I've decided I'm now a fair weather modder [emoji23] i did tell the mrs over Xmas that we're moving house so I can build a workshop If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Do you know if you're running a ej25 long engine or ej20 heads on a ej25 bottom end ? As there's a difference in the length of the spark plugs used in the 2.5ltr and 2.0ltr heads . As for brand most of us run "ngk heat 7's " I use red line shock proof gearbox oil it's about £80 but it's supposed to be rated fairly well. Rear diff oil is always worth doing at the same time 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Lol I've got a box full of bits waiting to be fitted to mine and the only thing stopping me is the weather (so I think you're out of luck there) But if the weather's good and I'm not plastering, I'm normally doing something scooby at the weekends and would gladly help if you can get it here [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Looks like a Good clean example and some good figures to come ,nice choice [emoji106] What route are you thinking of taking drive train wise to reach 400hp? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Any links to the bulbs bud ? I'm running so called osram "night breakers"........ night breakers my ar5e more like nightingale fooking candles[emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

the nut obviously needs to be nipped up in the first pic . It needs another bolt in the the subframe in the second pic . And I can't remember if the steering uj has a "captive" thread so I'd put a nut on it just in case [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Dunno what I'm looking for in the first pic tbh bud . Second pic needs a washer under the nut (if that's the engine mount) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

In this pic of the top of the canister the big bore red pipe is the same one on the boost control bracket (in my earlier pic) The middle black vac pipe ( that has a 1 way grey plastic valve in) goes to the clostest vapour hardline ( metal pipes attached to the fuel rails) The other small bore red pipe goes to the furthest away from the canister hard line . Hope that makes sense lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊