savage bulldogs

It's always good to stay off boost when the engine's cold and keep the revs low if possible but it's not so important to keep the revs low . if going up a incline when cold, I'd say you'd probably be better off bringing the revs up a bit by holding it in gear at a lower throttle position . Than sitting at 3k with over half throttle, as at 3k with half throttle most scoobs will trying to make more boost

Block half faces have been checked over, bores have had a light hone (to bed the new rings in) and the pistons have come up well . Looks like im gonna have to start getting my shopping list together soon [emoji4]

There's a sticky thread in the tech section that shows you how to run self diagnostics on classics by plugging connectors together under the dash [emoji6]

Missed this thread somehow. It depends on the condition of the rest of it ? Is it clean enough around the rear inner arches, boot well ,inner sills and suspension turrets? If the brakes have been sitting a while, the discs might be quite pitted and calipers might need a refurb too . Diff and box oils (plus a few other serviceable parts ) would probably worth doing as well . Id say realistically; it would cost about £1k to get it on the road and would've have thought you'd be able to pick up a second hand lump for £650 . You could fit the new belt kit to that , But with anything second hand you do take a bit of a chance . If that engine is goosed ? i do need a exhaust cam pulley, left bank timing belt cover backing plate and a clean center timing belt cover for my bug [emoji6]

Give Alyn at asperformance a bell he'd probably at least match the price of the pad fitting kit and help with pads , discs ect (if needs be) I got some t2 discs and pfc pads for my brembos off him , best combo I've had for fast road / daily driving

Check to see if ios does a suitable app for your smartphone first ,or use a android tablet if you have 1 you could use. As for the bluetooth dongle , i think any cheap odb11 bluetooth dongle should work fine fella. Hopefully someone who has one will point you in the tried n tested direction though

I bought my pins, r clips , new bleed nips and copper washers from either Alyn at asperformance or luke at import car parts (can't rember which lol )

When i enquired a costing from Alyn, that was for all the machine work needed to just assemble the bottom end ie rebore , hone , face work to the deck and cdb inserts [emoji6] Definitely always a bit of a gamble with any 2nd hand parts but it depends on how deep the op's pockets are . My pockets are fairly deep but I've only got short arms [emoji23] Hence why I've never pushed my budget build with a £2k turbo and only have 360hp from my £150 turbo [emoji4]

Im not that clued up on newage spec espically the rarer models but a pic of the rear 1/4 should tell , as i think the widetrack have a extra swage line on the rear arches . Where did you get your quote from ? I could probably recommend a couple of places near Ipswich to try

Definitely pushed the wheel back so unsure if youve just snapped a wishbone or bent its mounting points/chassis. Either way £10 k sounds very steep to me . Not knowing if yours is a widetrack ? If its standard sti set up I'd imagine you could get the all parts off a breaker for under £1k then, with fitting and paintwork be looking at £5k ish maximum. But the only thing i know for definite is that the Suffolk roads are shocking [emoji6]

A local breakers has a second hand sc46 up for sale for £900 Think alyn charges about £1k to close deck and machine a block ready to assemble [emoji6]

Think you used to be able too buy a bluetooth odb2 adapter off ebay and download a app for your smartphone (torque app i think) That reads ecu codes. Hopefully one of the newage boys might be able to confirm if its still available and works on your model . As the ecu might be cutting boost for a different reason , so knowing if its storing any codes would be a good idea before booking in a expensive mapping session.

Could try the likes of Matt at m.b developments you can find him on f.b

What year and model is it bud ? Do you mean its got a decat downpipe ? Has it been mapped , cos if not its probably overboost causing limp mode , due to the extra air from the intake and less restrictive downpipe

Holy thread resurrection [emoji23]🤣 I thought that was Geoff's job anyways [emoji848]

Where was that bit of oily shrapnel from then, fella ? Are you gonna drop arp's and forged pistons in while its split

Luckily I'd pulled the engine before the beast from the east dropped a blanket of snow in suffolk. Having another scooby came in handy , as the snow didn't stop me dropping the block halves off at pat segars (my trusty engineer) [emoji4] I'd originally planned to leave the heads in one piece, due to them being quiet and the engine not smoking , so valve stem seals and seats were ok . But the urge to fully refresh the engine took over and I've decided to (at least) re seat the valves and fit new stem seals [emoji4] They'll also go to the engineers for a pressure test and a general check over once i collect the block halves [emoji6]

Ok so the v1sti spat its dummy out Saturday afternoon and wouldn't start (just cranks over ) [emoji53] So I spent Saturday evening and most of sunday crawling over the car with a multi meter trying to find out why the fuel pump wouldn't prime [emoji848] Got home yesterday and just walked past it , as i was pretty miffed i own 2 scoobs and neither of them work [emoji34] Get home early today in the right frame of mind to find the fault ..... Started on the button [emoji4] The logical conclusion is that some moisture got in somewhere during the big thaw and its dried out [emoji6] The scooby fanatic side of me has put it down to the v1sti doesn't like me spending my "scooby time" all on the bug and got jealous [emoji23]🤣 Either way she's running fine now [emoji41]

As said above check the battery and engine earths / starter motor live are clean and making a good connection. In the early imprezas they have a "fuesable link " in the under bonnet fuse box , its basically a 30amp bit of wire with a spade connection on either end . This is the main "cranking" fuse , so if yours has 1 , it might also be worth checking too If all else fails halfords sometimes does a free winter battery check , they might stumble across the fault and at least you might be able to rule out the battery (if the test is ok ) [emoji6]

Once I'd split the block and removed the crank the cause of the rumble was plain to see ,fubar'd main bearings . Although the bearings had taken the wear and the crank measures up ok , i won't be taking any chances and will be fitting a brand new crank [emoji6]

You had to remove the access bungs to get to the wrist pin clips , take the outter clips off the wrist pins ,then use something long (que bbq skewers [emoji4]) to tap the wrist pin out from the other side . As the bottom of the bores have "webs" which mean the pistons have to be disconnected from the rods in order to split the block halves to get to the crank [emoji6]

Unfortunately the undertray was in the boot of the bug when i bought it , so can't help with what type of fasteners are needed . I'm sure a call to luke at import car parts would solve the mystery though , there's not much he doesn't stock tbh

Front n rear crank seals . Spigot bearing. Cam cover gaskets . Spark plugs. Maybe fit a group n sump gasket and possibly a sump baffle (if you intend on doing a track day)

Dug the scoob out of the snow , so i could get in it ,chucked the bug sti block in the boot and drove to the engineers and back grinning at the beemers going backwards downhills

Once I'd removed the rcm lightweight flywheel i could see the oil leak (i mentioned earlier) was coming from the rear crank seal. It had obviously been leaking for a while . It doesn't make sense to me why it wasn't replaced (or at least cleaned) prior to flitting the new clutch [emoji848] Good possibility that the leak being so close to the rear crank journal would cause a dip in oil pressure or oil level at some point . Which might have starved the main bearings of oil and caused the crank rumble in the first place . Cleaned the back of the block , took the sump off and spotted my first bit of fubar'd bearings stuck to the side of the oil pickup