savage bulldogs
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Everything posted by savage bulldogs
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Dunno, if the import lump is a goodn it would probably be easier to fit that .As you'll have to remove and refit all those parts I listed to do the headgasket anyways . If the headgasket goes,most engine builders recommend that you refresh the bottom end . As if the headgaskets have been gone a while it can put the bottom end under a lot of strain . Plus it's not much more cost and labour to do once the engines out /heads are off. What county are you in ,fella ? There might be someone local that's breaking a v3/v4 that can help
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Depends if it was a sti or wrx import ? As if it was a sti the cams are different and the pistons will be semi forged but the long engine (heads and block ) will fit . You'd have to fit everything else off the UK (phase 1.5) engine to the v1/v2 (phase 1) engine ,like .. . Inlet manifold . Throttle body . Tps. Fuel rails and injectors. Icv. Tmic. P.s pump . Intake pipework. Headder tank. Watercrossover pipe . engine loom. Ect . Basically everything from the inlet ports on the heads upwards [emoji6]
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No problem bud,Just didn't know if you'd replied and quoted the wrong post . Most engineer's tend to use the word "stopper " to describe the rubber coated multi layer headgaskets . As it's (supposed) to aid gasket adhering to the head and deck surfaces . Although i don't know how much difference it would make on a odb compared to a cdb , or have any proof they actually work tbh
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Alyn's a proppa helpful fella who knows his stuff [emoji106] I think import car parts list multilayer vitron rubber coated gaskets . Could try advanced automotive ,RM performance or checking the price of cossie stopper headgaskets too . I was lucky enough to get my cossie stopper headgaskets for £100 of Mick from r.m performance a few years ago
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? Don't think I mentioned rcm in that post tidgy . I do agree rcm stuff ain't cheap but the oil and fuel pump I run can't be faulted quality wise [emoji6]
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Coming along nicely ,fella [emoji41] I considered doing a twin scroll conversion but i eventually decided i like the burble too much to do it .
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Compared to the earlier ej20g, The ej205 heads have a different stud and inlet pattern , different thrust position on the crankshaft and a different piston composite material. But I'm unsure if the piston crowns or head chambers are different capacities . Hence why I'd be dubious about the headgaskets being the same thicknesses. Especially as I've seen multi layer steel gaskets listed for sti versions. If your gonna keep the car and push more than standard boost levels I'd look into buying uprated vitron rubber "stopper " headgaskets of the correct thickness. As for the sake of a few extra £'s it could save you doing it again [emoji6]
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Afaik On pre 98 classics the multi layer steel gaskets are on the sti versions all other models of the same versions /year had fibre gaskets . Think there's a gaskets thickness difference on some classics but I'm unsure if that's due to sti's having a different capacity forged piston crown "bowl" . Or different capacity across all models pending on version/year . You could always give the likes of Alyn at asperformance or advanced automotive a bell and pick there brains [emoji6]
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440cc to 550 cc shouldn't be too bad as long as your running standard fuel pressure . Definitely stay off boost and try to only drive it on the way to get mapped . I had to drive mine 40 miles to my mapper off boost . No problems apart from spitting flames on the overrun,rough idle and heavy fuel consumption (for off boost driving) . If your worried check the oil regularly to see if it smells of fuel and if it's due a service soon, change it after its mapped [emoji6]
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Are you going to refresh the bottom end ,or do you think you've caught it early enough? As it's not much more time and money to do while the engines out and the heads are off . Best of luck and don't skimp on any gaskets , the cheaper (and reused) gaskets tend to leak [emoji6]
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Does sound like a torque converter issue ,seeing as it won't change gear "automatically " and leaking fluid . Unfortunately probably the only way to find out exactly what's wrong would be to remove the gearbox and inspect it . As it could be something simple like a linkage and driveshaft oil seal or more expensive like 1 of the hydraulic valves ect .
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What size was the original injectors and what size did you upgrade to ?. if it's gonna be a long while before it's mapped , I'd try not to use it at all . As excessive overfuelling will "wash " the bores if oil and can thin the oil in the sump.
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If you wanted to upgrade to stainless steel pistons (so the dont corrode and seize ) . I got my kit from Ian at godspeed [emoji6]
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It's probably the most uploaded pic on my phone , easy when you know but can be hell'va confusing if you don't lol
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Clutch fork pivot pin is near the starter motor behind a hex head cap . You have to wind a bolt into the end of the pin to pull it out [emoji6]
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Hmm you cut across the abandoned air field on your bike but drive the scoob on the road for kicks [emoji52] You've got those back to front,if you ask me lol
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When I had my 97 UK turbo mapped , the mapper just fitted another (possibly 6's) ecu that had a esl board already fitted . He took my old ecu with him ,once he'd finished, presumably to fit another board in for the next v3/v4 he mapped . I'm sure andy stevens will answer your questions, once asked.
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Don't think the early jdm' s have imobilizers ,so would imagine you'd be ok . Maybe buy a replacement ecu with the same numbers on and try that in yours before you send it off to get the board fitted ? Would mean less down time on your scooby and answer your question [emoji6]
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Na the only uprated tmic that will fit a v1 is made by "arc" and they're pretty rare now days. As the v1/v2 phase 1 inlet and throttle body sit a lot closer to the bulkhead and make it almost impossible to fit any other oe subaru tmic
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Not to good with geography but there's Rm performance in Danbury (Oxfordshire i think) . Pm their Facebook page or give them a bell for a chat about options within your budget
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Have you done a self code check ? Sounds like Weak spark ,is it due a change of plugs ?
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Looks like a clean unabused example [emoji41] Didn't want to scare you off with robs £8k price tag, as you could probably get it done for less than a 1/4 of that price [emoji6] Pending how bad the inner arches are, whether you get the whole car sprayed or just the rear 1/4's and who you use to get the work done .
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Unfortunately most of robs pics were on photo bucket but his way of getting rid of the tin worm was probably the best but most expensive I've seen . He has all his work done by Roger Clarke and had new inner and outer rear 1/4's imported from Japan. Thorough job but a £8k price tag [emoji857] Stants Probably recommended the most used route but if your welder can make the inner arches and turrets solid ?. Have a look for "automotive repair panels " page on Facebook. Ray sells good quality gc8 outer rear repair panels and sills at sensible prices . Let us know how you get on and best of luck with saving another classic [emoji106]
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Had 1 bit of raw drone footage sent to me but it's not got the scooby in [emoji57] It's of the skyline and s14 unedited shot from the sky yesterday
