savage bulldogs

Are you sure it's rear cv's As shocks or diff are the usual suspects for knocking or clicking from the back . Most use import car parts for oe subaru stuff , check their website or give them a call (if they're not listed ) Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I spent quite a bit of time cleaning and painting my inner arches on my 94 sti . Even though I've kept the outer and inner arches clean it's started to bubble on the drivers side rear [emoji15] After investigation it's being caused by moisture in the boot being trapped behind the boot liner and sitting on the rear arch/ chassis leg [emoji57] Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Spotted this on a f.b page , dunno anything about the seller or box but it's probably about as cheap as you'll find.

Let me know if this link to the Facebook page works , if not I'll try to screen grab some contact details off there . https://m.facebook.com/Automotive-Repair-Panels-424084321262541/ Ray is a helpful fella and well into his scoobies [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Yeah just go easy on the pre load on the adjustable arm . Start off at just tight enough the take up the slack , so you can't here a rattle from the wastegate when you "wiggle" the arm . As you'd be better off getting under boost on your first test run and nipping it up (trying again), than running a unmapped increase in boost and melting something [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Yeah I've fought with some for half a day trying to locate the box but others have just gone straight in first time . Glad it's back in and up n running [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

If you were closer I'd have give you a hand . I have done 5 speeds on my own but it's much easier with a hand . Probably too late now ,as this was posted 2 days ago but I find it a bit easier to locate the idle shaft into the clutch if you tilt the engine slightly by jacking the front of the engine with a block of wood on the headers or front pulley. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Hi n welcome, nice clean looking v1 [emoji41] I'm rather partial to a early classic too [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

If the ratio is the same you'll be fine fella Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Glad it appears to have resolved the issue [emoji41] Sounds like it might have been a airlock or blockage in the heater matrix. You could try attaching a bit of hosepipe to 1 the heater matrix pipes and run that into a bucket .Then attach the other heater matrix pipe to a hose pipe and see if you can flush it through with mains pressure . This might rule out a blockage if it's free flowing or push a blockage out and into the bucket so you can see what was blocking it . Best of luck and keep us posted bud Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Went away for the weekend with the Mrs only 150 mile round trip but having the "rev limiter" (mrs in the scoob) managed the whole trip on about a 3rd of a tank 😎. My antique sat nav did find a really bumpy short cut which the meister r zeta-r coilovers coped with really well ...... however I almost stuck the scoob in a ditch [emoji15] But that was the Mrs fault as she had a low cut top on which was far too distracting [emoji23] Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

If your on f.b have a search for "automotive repair panels " as the sell good quality gc8 arch and sill repair panels [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

No problem, as you have probably seen , I normally post any meets /shows on s.c on here anyways. Duxford is a good family day out and I normally take my mrs and 2 daughters but I've been told to finish the patio in the back garden before I can do anything else scooby [emoji57] Bury is also a good family day out and it's free to get in [emoji41] But if your cars on a stand you can't leave until the public are leaving as they're only insured as a static show . So my wife ,daughters and inlaws pop down in another car and park in the public car park , so they can leave if they've had enough or our typical English weather turns on us lol Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I think a few off My local forum go to this but can't say I've seen anyone post up anything for this year as yet . Unfortunately it's quite quiet on "scooby city" now days (hence why I'm on here more) but they do still have monthly meets in Norwich and ipswich . They also have stands at a few local shows, like next weekend at duxford for their spring car show and a charity event in Bury St Edmunds on father's day (which I'm going to ) So if your after local scooby meets and shows give em a look and introduce yourself in the newbie section tez . As there's not a local meet set up on this forum (in this region ,yet) as there's only 5 or so regular posters in our area ,so we only tend to make the effort to meet up at japshow @ santa pod. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Budget and driving style will have a part to play . The 2.5 has more torque and low down grunt but isn't as "revvy " as a 2ltr . I forged my 2ltr v1 sti cdb myself for under £1.8 k including beer tokens for a machine shop 😉 Rough guide to what I did on a low budget ..... Machine shop work ...Skim all surfaces, 0.5mm over bore, valves re cut ,crank ultrasoniclly cleaned, and all components chucked through his "hot wash" Standard ported v1 sti heads with new oe stem seals and relapped valves . Mahle pistons, Brian crower sport compact rods ,rcm uprated oil pump , cossie h.g's , arp headstuds and big end bolts , acl bearings , kevlar timing with full belt kit , full oe /group n gasket kit and new block bolts . I bought a second hand aps sr40 (u.s stock location gt28) for £200 and had most of the supporting mods already (fmic ,550'cc nismo injectors ect ) Once run in it made enough power to turn my 5 speed into a 4 speed (on a tdo5 16g) . Now runs the sr40 @ 359.9 hp coupled to a 6 speed conversion. I run apexi fc ecu and avcr (sub £500) second hand which is no where near syvec's capability but at a 1/4 of the cost it works well enough for me 😉 Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Inner and outer tie rods might be worth a check ,although when there worn you do tend to get the symptoms in all conditions (straight line and cornering too) Did the old tyres have any tell tale wear to show a alignment issue ? . If so 4wd geo check might be a cheaper way to tell what's wrong before chucking cash at it Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Unfortunately I don't know what else to try tbh , as I've only ever had that 1 "mechanical " issue with my central locking . If you were closer I'd let you try my central locking box , is there anyone else near you that would let you do the same ? I have bought a few things of f.b from a fella called Toby Morgan that lives in your neck of the woods but unsure if he has a box in stock .

Rip fozzy [emoji26] At least it was on the donor list and will help many more scoobs live on . Guess you'll be counting down the days untill you can get another 1 but untill then you can buy cheap fuel to chuck in the focar5e [emoji55]

Tyre foam cleaner works fairly well on plastic arch liners too 😉

Same symptoms as mine , I will admit the clamp was in 1 piece and both bars moved but I noticed a clean section on the rods (where the clamp used to be ) . When I loosened the clamp and pulled the rod that was attached to the internal drivers door lock (orange button in the handle) all doors locked . I Give that a try to see if it locks the other doors maybe ? . As I think the remote opens the drivers door and the rod to the internal lock opens the rest of the doors when it's operated. It was only when I loosened the clamp that I noticed it had a crack in it . Hence the cable ties.

Roll centre correction kit and rear camber bolts , if you intend on running coilovers stiff n low. As it helps reduce bump steer and helps correct the camber on the rear when having a geo set up done

Yep preface v1 to v3 uk classic

Check the clamp that holds these 2 bars together in the drivers door mechanism. Mine had a crack in it letting the 2 bars move separately and not operating the rest of the doors I just used cable ties for a quick fix as icp can't get the clamps new so I'll have to find some off a breaker . Hopefully it's the same issue on yours

When you lock /unlock the car can you hear the central locking making any noise ? As mine stopped working and it was a broken clamp that holds the internal door mechanism bars together.

Jdm are generally better spec but apart from engine internals and gearbox ratios most parts are the same as uk cars . The spec c's and ra r's are a bit more raw to drive due to being a bit lighter (no side skirts or boot carpet ect ) and I think the suspension is a bit more track based. They probably feel a bit less refined compared to a sti of the same year but seeing as your looking at low milage examples, I'd imagine it's not gonna be a daily driver. so thought I'd mention a couple of rare jdm versions that will probably hold their value too