savage bulldogs

Today i be mostly using the scooby in part 2 of the music video shoot [emoji41] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yeah i bought some hoses from A.S.H to convert my front entry gt28 to top entry . Icp might do them if you don't want to muck about yourself. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Any v1 or v2 (phase 1) turbo impreza has these as standard but good second hand one's are a bit thin on the ground. I think the likes of merlin motorsport could probably order you a samco replacement but make sure your sitting down when they tell you the cost Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

No problem bud, always glad to see early classics getting looked after [emoji106] Yep they're phase 1 injectors and will drop straight in your rails with new o rings [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

If the injectors have a long brownish tip the same as the greys you remove they'll be a straight fit up to v4 . Id just try it with the standard map sensor first , see how it runs off boost , then try the 3 bar one . the ecu would learn a certain ammount but unless you asked andy at esl to add the yellows to the base map , i wouldn't drive it unnecessarily (just to bob off boost if pos ) . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

If you've got phase 2 yellows you'll need phase adapters to fit them into your phase 1 fuel rails . If your up pipe is original you'll probably snap or round off a few nuts and studs , so definitely worth having a few new bolts , studs and nuts . Use oe gaskets not cheap ebay ones . Might want to renew the turbo oil line banjo bolt copper washers, as they're cheap and its off . Be careful with the "flexi elbow " intake pipe that attaches to the top of the turbo . As these get quite brittle and are a pain to find in good condition second hand. You'll loose a bit of coolant , so you'll have to top up and possibly bleed it . The new map sensor will probably not be calibrated in the esl base map . So might have to be fitted by bob on the day . Once you've fitted everything pop the crank sensor off and turn it over a few times to get oil round the turbo lines ,before start up . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Did you push the caliper pistons right back when fitting the new pads and discs ? As if the old discs and pads were well worn the pistons might have not returned all the way back , causing them to "nip" the discs a bit . Could try removing the pads and see if all the pistons are moving freely and returning all the way into the calipers Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Nah that fuse was well hidden , kudos to my alarm/ tracker fitter though [emoji3] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Reason for editing .......my sausage fingers double posted [emoji55]

Tbh I've never had to do a sniff test so couldn't tell you the correct way to do it . I know if the headgaskets go they tend to push combustion gases into the coolant ,leaving hydrocarbons behind that are pickedup by the test . Early stages this can just happen just "on boost" when the pressure is high enough in the cylinders . I think it should still leave a trace even then ,so id get someone to double check . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Sorry hatch chaps , only a bit of bants . im just waspy due to my old classics rusty wheel arch . If your gonna keep it and get the engine rebuilt . Might as well get it upgraded along the way [emoji6] I might have spoken to A.S performance about closed decking a 2.5 ltr block , just dont tell my wife [emoji23] . It costs about £1k to get a block machined to a the point of being ready to drop the pistons in the new bores. I'm unsure how much clinic charge though , so definitely get a worst case scenario quote whoever you choose to get the work done. Closed deck with forged internals is certainly a good base but its not my money we're spending here ....... But ,even if you don't want high hp atm you won't be rebuilding it again if you change your mind in the future [emoji48] [emoji39] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

If your getting excessive whistling and not just spool noise . Have you tried checking the pipework from air box to turbo and from turbo to throttle body ,for splits and leaks ? As any air leak, from air filter to inlet manifold will give a whistle on boost as boost escapes . Or hunting idle as unmetered air is sucked into the engine [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Sell the mazda looking scoob and keep the going up in value classic [emoji55] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

In my household maintenance parts are paid from the joint account (necessity) but i pay for mods . My mot tester is my brv inlaw and although my scoob flies through the mot ,somehow i always leave with a advisory on the ticket [emoji848] I think the last "advisory" was for shocks and top mounts slightly worn ....... So my Coilovers were bought from "maintenance money" not my modding pot [emoji23] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Been there lol , probably best not to push it too hard . if you've got the oe slanty tmic that will probably be the limiting factor . Might be worth getting a v3 onwards map sensor as the v1 /v2 can max out at 1.2 bar [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Just noticed you said your going to get a remap soon [emoji41] Are you fitting mods to "map in" on the day as if you have a tdo5 they can map over 330hp with a few extras [emoji39] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I think both of my classics had tape around the "flexi trunking" that covers the maf wires and some of the engine loom . I think its factory fitted to seal the ends of the trunking . When i did my newage coilpack conversion i covered the "pig tail" wires with some flexi trunking that halfrauds sell by the mtr , think it's normally used for audio installs . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

You will get some bubbles in the expansion bottle as the headder tank cap releases hot coolant into the expansion bottle. As tidgy said check for crusty coolant on the hoses at the ends and the inside of tight bends . If your still worried get a sniff test done bud [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yeah it wouldn't let me log into s.o.c even though i hadn't logged out [emoji15] Everytime i tried logging in on the normal website on my phone it redirected me through tapatalk and failed log in again [emoji34] Hopefully its working now as im using tapatalk to post this Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Crank /cam sensor faults normally throw up a code . Having a different turbo and more than stock boost it should've been mapped (fuel adjusted to suit the extra air ) . Do you know if it has been mapped ? If not and it was running ok , have you recently reset the ecu or disconnected the battery ? As the ecu might have "learnt" the mods to protect the engine and a reset would take it back to factory map .

Difficult to price classics tbh as the rusty donkeys are still pulling the prices of clean classics down . It also depends on the condition ie clean paintwork,good history ,milage, if its got mods has it been mapped for them and what ecu ect . Being a wrx and not a sti id say anywhere between £1.5k and £3k ish .

Heat range 6 or 7 plugs ? Are you running stock boost and map ? Any mods ?

There was a fair few v3/v4 type r's made in comparison to the p1's . So although personally i also think the jdm type r is a better car they're not as rare as a p1 so don't fetch quite as much money . A friend of mine had a v3 type r in cashmere yellow ,completely standard with no rust and just a bit of paint fade as the only bad part . Even though yellow is a rare colour it was up for sale last year at £8.5k with not many "bites" ,unsure if hes sold it or if so how much for . theres a user on here with a yellow 1 as well but i can't his user name or whether it's a v3 or v4 . You do tend to struggle with how many are left with jdm stuff as a lot of them aint even listed on websites . My 94 v1sti impreza is fairly non existent on most "how many" or "insurance" website lists . As tidgy said the type ra forum might have a better idea , either way its nice to see a unabused example and im sure you'll get a fair price if you hold out for the right buyer .

If they're genuine gaskets you dont need sealants but i think some might just smear a little bit to hold the gasket in place while fitting . Make sure you change the half moons at the back of the cams and go steady tightening the cam cover bolts . As they only need torque'ing down very lightly and you can eaisly strip the threads

If there's nothing wrong with the standard cat in the downpipe maybe just by a cat back for now . It will unleash the Scooby sound , be cheaper and only take about a hr to fit . Afaik the bug wrx has a pre cat in the up pipe (just before the turbo) and a main cat in the downpipe (like all model's of scoob) . When getting a remap ,most change the up pipe for a sti up pipe or aftermarket 1 without a pre cat . This helps spool and power but needs to be "mapped in" to work . So id probably leave the standard downpipe insitu until a later date . Then change both up and downpipe at some point if you decide to unleash a bit more power (get a remap) The likes of cobra,Haywood and scott,nur spec (loud) ect cat backs are available for about £200 2nd hand .As are the prodrive sports cat downpipe fitted to the prodrive ppp versions. Jdm stands for Japanese domestic market , so the exhaust seminol89 is made by a Japanese tuner [emoji6] (which are normally good quality too but hard to find over here )