savage bulldogs

Sorry (just re read my post) I'd had a few scrumpy's and didn't mean for my post to come across as a rant . After all I've never had any work done by them myself and although they're expensive , I've never seen anything but good feedback on rcm's work . I do still find it a bit hard to believe that they charged £10 k for a engine build that didn't include at least a bottom end refresh . Especially as my mate had his scoob booked in for a £5k rebuild (over the phone) and once they looked over his scoob , they told him he didn't need a rebuild (seem fairly honest of them ) . Sorry to the op for spamming your thread , but this is a friendly forum and I didn't want my post to be taken the wrong way . Best of luck with the build and running in's a !Removed! [emoji23]

Not too sharp on my leggy spec tbh but it sounds like a spec b . I dare say the "applied model code " from the I'd plaque and a Google would give you a definite answer though bud [emoji6]

Told the mrs I needed to find a shell garage as we only had just over half a tank and the scoob don't run on anything but v power [emoji6] Seeing as were away on hols in sunny Cornwall , i found 1 on Google maps and plumbed it in on the sat nav then set off to fill her up .... 2.5 hrs later ,via lots of twisties and a "water splash" (fjord) [emoji41] i finally returned grinning like a Cheshire cat with just under half a tank [emoji15] Guess I'd better nip out and brim the tank again tomorrow [emoji23]

Try Matty b at mbdevelopments he's got a f.b page and has a good rep for second hand scooby bits . Even if he hasn't got 1 in stock he'll probably be able to help you with what parts are needed for the newage 5 speed conversion

A apexi avcr does control the boost better than the standard ecu ,even with some cheaper stand alone ecu's and a 3 port . But it's probably not necessary at sub 330hp running oe turbos (ideal for bigger turbos to reduce lag ) As you can adjust the boost in each gear, to stop under boost in the lower gears and over boost in the higher gears . You can also have high boost ,low boost and scramble settings on the fly . Latter of which can be set to give a surge of boost at the touch of a button . It has to be set up on a dyno and some expensive aftermarket ecu's can also do this anyways . I had a apexi f.c ecu and additional map sensor and 3 port control lead already, tbh the boost control was fine with the tdo5 16g . My budget is fairly low compared to some so when a aps sr40 (stock location gt28) and avcr was offered to me for £350 I snapped it up [emoji41] I hit 1 bar 750 rpm sooner in 4th and 0.4 bar more in 2nd since fitting the avcr after fitting the gt28 [emoji6]

I run a apexi f.c ecu and avcr boost controller but the f.c monitor's knock and I have a afr gauge installed. Even then I let my mapper set it up on his dyno , as i don't fancy doing another rebuild just yet

Classics are known to cope with unmapped mods slightly better than newage (bug onwards) but it's still Russian roulette bolting stuff on or changing boost targets, without mapping or at least monitoring afr and knock . Even "chipped" ecu's are a gamble and there's no safe shortcuts around dipping you hand in your pocket and paying for a bespoke remap [emoji6] .

If you haven't had to skim the heads or block deck faces, phone Luke and ask him what the oe thickness should be for your model to reach the 8.5.1 compression ratio . As there's quite a few differences in cylinder head chamber and piston bowl cc used in different version / models of classics

Fairly sure it's a straight swap afaik the only real difference between the classic and bugeye onwards boxes is the casings are stronger/bigger . so there's possibly a difference between cradles as the 5 speed gearbox mounts are the same throughout the impreza turbo range . If you buy a bug onwards box try asking the seller before you buy , as i personally upgraded to a 6 speed and don't like to advise anyone to do anything I haven't personally done .

As long as the ratios are the same any 5 speed will mate up and work fine with your existing rear diff . Just bear in mind the classic 5 speeds are getting on a bit and even when low mileage, they tend to spit they're dummy out at 330hp ish . The later bug and blobeye 5 speeds tend to handle a bit more power (360hp ish) . So are a good upgrade compared to the weaker classic boxes [emoji6]

If you give your existing gearbox ty##$ code a Google to get the ratio. Then find a 6 speed with the same ratio ,all you'll need for a classic 6 speed conversion is .... Box. Cradle with mounts . Gear stick and linkage . If it's a pre 04 6 speed . As the 5 speed starter motor ,fly , clutch slave and clutch are compatible. If it's a late 04 onwards box you'll also need a stub axle conversion kit (from icp ) to convert the box to take the earlier "female" driveshafts [emoji6]

Will admit owning my own business I know that you can only carry out work to the customers budget . Unless your 1 of those ruthless " quote cheap to get the job and then add loads of extras afterwards " type of people . I own a few rcm bits can't fault the quality or service I received from them . Personally I do all my work myself but know budgets and skills differ. I know a few people who use rcm 1 of which is running 320 hp on a standard uk turbo lump that's been always maintained by rcm and has currently got 230k on the clock . Another friend went in for a engine build by them and was told the excessive knock and noise he was getting was due to a badly fitted fmic . Endoscope bores proved therebuild wasn't needed and it's done 20k since without any issues . Basically I'm saying if you can't afford to run a performance car don't buy 1 . Certainly don't bad mouth other companies that recommend a full rebuild ,don't take their advice and then complain when it goes bang [emoji6] Rcm isn't cheap but they know their stuff imo . But have a chat with the likes of Alyn at asperformance or r.m performance for a cheaper alternative

Nice choice chap [emoji41] Did they find the misfire issue's on the type r and if so do you have a price in mind ? As i know someone who's after a decent classic , pm me a price if you like [emoji6]

I had the same sort of issue when i hit boost , loud whining coming from the passenger side front .... it soon disappeared once the wife wasn't in the scoob [emoji23] On a serious note (as Mr b said) try coasting around corners (clutch dipped or in neutral) to see if the noise gets worse when either side is under load . This might help pinpoint a bearing issue . Or when driving at the speed that causes the noise ,see if coasting lessens the noise . If so it might indicate that the diff is worn if it's quiet when not under load. Best of luck , bud

Give Luke at import car parts a bell , that's where most of us buy new oe subaru stuff [emoji6]

In the hatch I sit at about 2750 rpm at about 80mph although that's the indicated speed , because in the newer 6 speeds don't they have slightly longer ratios as the engine doesn't rev as high I went by the sat nav' s GPS speed readout as my 23yr old mechanical Speedo is a bit out lol . I didn't know they did different uk ratios tbh but know there's at least 3 different jdm ratios (so it makes sense) My 6 speed was out of a 60k 04 plate blobeye uk sti with ppp (so came with the ppp short shift) was lucky enough that it was a full conversion kit including 6 speed fly ,pink box clutch ,slave and starter motor for £1350 delivered [emoji41]

Looks like the previous owner had spent a bit on it . But gotta ask have you still got the classic too ? I'll keep a eye out for both as I'm in st Agnes for the week and have only spotted 1 scooby so far . (L reg wrx)

Yep turning my 5 speed into a 4 speed was 1 of the best mods I've done [emoji48] As it ment that the mrs had to agree to release the funds for a stronger 6 speed [emoji23]

Soffened up the coilovers 4 clicks then Drove 370 miles from suffolk to Cornwall. managed to get 310 miles out of a small jdm classic tank [emoji16] Not bad for for a 360 hp car with a boot full of cases and 4 up [emoji41] Admittedly my mapper' s attention to off boost fuelling (not just pub figures) and the UK ratio 6 speed giving me 2750 rpm in 6th at 70mph helped [emoji6]

Hi n welcome to s.o.c, I'm not 100% on my newage spec but I'm sure the UK 300 had a unique interior (uk300 embossed in the seats) and a different spoiler to the wrx . I think The prodrive or ppp versions of wrx had a sports cat downpipe and freeier flowing (blue silicone) top mount pipes ,then remapped to 265hp .

I'd eco tidgy when it comes to forged pistons for the sake of £450. You'll need a few more gaskets like headers,up pipe, turbo outlet ,water crossover and dipstick o rings , front and rear crank seals ect . Filter, fluids and timing pulley/tensioner water pump ect ? Consider replacing the clutch and spigot bearing , if it's due soon or your turning the wick up . As it's a lot eaiser while the engines out . [emoji6]

I don't know of anyone in your area that could help but im sure there is a few members on here from Wirral ? Unfortunately i currently own a v1 jdm and don't have my v3uk anymore (tin worm rip) So can't help with the UK sigma alarm box wiring and have never had a full dash out so haven't got any pics of that area . If all else fails there's some classic manuals (including wiring diagrams ) available in free download pdf files on. "Ken Gilbert " website [emoji6]

Dunno, if the import lump is a goodn it would probably be easier to fit that .As you'll have to remove and refit all those parts I listed to do the headgasket anyways . If the headgasket goes,most engine builders recommend that you refresh the bottom end . As if the headgaskets have been gone a while it can put the bottom end under a lot of strain . Plus it's not much more cost and labour to do once the engines out /heads are off. What county are you in ,fella ? There might be someone local that's breaking a v3/v4 that can help

Depends if it was a sti or wrx import ? As if it was a sti the cams are different and the pistons will be semi forged but the long engine (heads and block ) will fit . You'd have to fit everything else off the UK (phase 1.5) engine to the v1/v2 (phase 1) engine ,like .. . Inlet manifold . Throttle body . Tps. Fuel rails and injectors. Icv. Tmic. P.s pump . Intake pipework. Headder tank. Watercrossover pipe . engine loom. Ect . Basically everything from the inlet ports on the heads upwards [emoji6]

No problem bud,Just didn't know if you'd replied and quoted the wrong post . Most engineer's tend to use the word "stopper " to describe the rubber coated multi layer headgaskets . As it's (supposed) to aid gasket adhering to the head and deck surfaces . Although i don't know how much difference it would make on a odb compared to a cdb , or have any proof they actually work tbh