savage bulldogs

You have to take the thrust race off the clutch by gently removing the "spring circlips" in the middle of the thrust race . Once separated from the clutch put the circlips back in the thrust race . Re assemble the fork ,thrust race and (lubed ) pivot pin into the box . Tie the fork back to keep the thrust race away from the clutch plate assembly while re locating the box . Once the box is on and the bellhousing is fully mated with the engine ,untie the fork and gently (by hand) pull the fork to make the thrust race "lock" into the clutch . You should hear a click as the "circlip springs " lock the thrust race in place . Hope you can make sense of that ? Unfortunately i haven't got any pics of refitting the clutch fork

Hi SB, do you mean seller:piranhaproducts-uk ? Hmm possibly [emoji55] it was last year lol . I had a quick squint and i couldn't find them on ebay atm . My receipts are in the loft , gotta hide em from the wife somewhere [emoji23] Did have this number on my phone from them though . 01142424009 I had to get the part numbers off cobras website and give them those to get a quote

Nice looking unabused example of the first type r's [emoji41] A mate had 1 of these it made 306 hp with a cat back and filter on the standard map

Just got home and mine turns over but no dash lights other than door open with no power to apexi hand controller,avcr or afr gauge . Im betting on fuse or a dodgy connection for me . Has yours got dash lights ?

Strangely enough my mrs just phoned saying scoob wont start and just keeps turning over...... hope yours starts , cos i aint posting on this jinxed thread again lol

A friends p1 did exactly the same after a plug change ,he took them out dried them with a blow torch and and it fired on the button . Had to leave the car overnight with the mapper so he could adjust the cold start . You could try a tow start (like someone suggested earlier) this might get the initial start up and burn the fuel in the bores

Sounds like the cold start could be the issue as I've had a few friends that run mafless have the same issue . As by the time the mapper has done a base map and got it running right its to hot to do the cold start ,so they have to guess a bit as there's no maf . Have you fitted a intake temp sensor ? As they help with fuel trim when running mafless

Try looking for piranahperformanceuk seller on ebay . I bought my 3" cobra trackday system from them for under £400 . They're still made by cobra and have the lifetime warranties but the pipework isnt polished (boxes are) and therfore they're almost half price

Just a thought have the parallel lines and fpr been mapped in already , as if the fuel pressure is different on the rails it would throw the fuelling out

Cant say ive ever had a issue with air in the lines and ive had a few engines in and out and at least 6 manifolds off . I do always pop the crank sensor off (so it doesn't fire) and turn it over a few times before initial start up though . Maybe ask your mapper if disconnecting the battery would switch maps (probably would) .if so it could be trying to run on map 1 and hes mapped map 2 for your set up ?

Never owned alcatek but id imagine disconnecting the earth for 10 mins would work . Has it got duel map function ? If so could it be on the wrong map after disconnecting the battery or depressing the throttle in neutral (thats how my old esl used to switch maps) . I plugged the front n rear coilpacks in back to front on 1 bank before it turned over and popped n banged . As the correct firing bank ignites the unburnt fuel in the headders . Inlet manifold earth ok its normally located near where the fuel filter pipes connect to the fuel hard lines

Vac line to the fpr ok ? Tps and temp sensor plugs ok ? Could try disconnecting the crank sensor and turning it over a few times then reconnect ,reset the ecu and try again . Or leave the plugs out for a hour ,dry them off and try again . Id imagine you'd smell fuel if you kept turning it over and it wasn't firing . Id imagine you'd get a few pops if it was fueling ok but firing in the wrong order when turning over . How did you check for spark and did you check all cylinders ?

Is it a single coil pack verison (1 on the inlet v3 to v6) if so ht leads on right ? or 4 coil packs, 1 on top of each plug (v1 v2) . Are Front and rear right on each bank ? Try putting the old filter back in ?

If you can ,store it for a couple of years , once cars hit 25yrs old they are allowed to be imported to parts of the u.s and Prices will improve .. a lot [emoji6]

That was my first attempt at a shiney bay in my v3 uk turbo [emoji16] This is the current v1sti's bay ,i like em clean [emoji6] If you've not removed a classic scooby box before give it a search before you start , cos you have to remove the clutch fork pivot pin to split the engine and box [emoji6]

Only pic I've got to hand the ty code is slightly lower than the sticker in the pic

There should be a white sticker with the ty number on the bellhousing near the starter motor

Just make sure that your comparing the ty number on both boxes and no the 1 on your scoobs id plaque . Just in case your scoobs had a box n diff replacement at some point . Best of luck and keep us posted how you get on ,fella

Just the final drive needs to be the same on diff and box bud

I've had a few cobra exhaust systems and found them to be well made and a good fit . On my classic I'm currently running a cobra 3" track day cat back. which has 2 resonators in the centre section and a big back box . Still unleashes the scooby burble but doesn't drone on the carriage way. Have a listen to the vids on their website to get a idea of the difference between non resonated and resonated . The other brands you mentioned are good too but miltek tend to not look as pretty .

Have a squint on here to see if the final ratios match with your existing ratio . If they dont you'll have to change the diff too (which can be a ballache If it's not been removed before) http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart Hopefully your codes will be on there [emoji848]

If the ratios are the same it will fit [emoji6] Even if your scoob has a early mechanical Speedo drive and the box has electric ,they're interchangeable .

Just got back from a hell'va long road trip from suffolk to Cornwall , glad to say my 23yr old scooby ate the miles and didn't use a drop of oil or water [emoji41] The only minor thing I had to do was empty the catch can. Got through a fair bit of v power but did manage 310 miles to the first tank sitting at 70 on the carriage way off boost . Admittedly the mpg went down considerably when i was driving in the twisties but the old girl did put a grin on my face. Might treat her to a wash tomorrow as the country lanes and fjords have made her a bit grubby lol

My v3 uk turbo was mapped with esl twice by duncan't. 1st time it wouldn't idle right and kept bringing up the eml when i hit boost at wot . 2 wks later he tweeked it for free but 6 months later a dyno run showed a crazy rich afr that looked like a ECG. Dyno operator said I'd have to drive everywhere on boost to avoid bore wash . When i asked Duncan why ? I was told "what do I expect it's a old car " My current mapper (clive attowe ) gets it right first time and I haven't found any negative stuff about him online anywhere. But he not cheap for base maps and only maps from his own dyno in Norwich. I don't often get involved in mud slinging but I've had a few scrumpies and feel I need to let it out lol . Best of luck to the op finding someone your happy with, cos at the end of the day it's your car and money bud

Nom nom pop corn time again lol