savage bulldogs

If the compression test was done correctly those results are full rebuild symptoms [emoji852] Even if the stripdown shows valve or gasket damage ,as cylinder number 3 is way down on compression. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Is id down on compression and if so on how many cylinders ? Are the first pair of exhaust valves the same colour as the second pair ? As the 2nd look darker to me , if so compare the plug colour of both cylinders too. If its a fair bit darker that could indicate a misfire (unburnt fuel) hopefully a cheap fix . or if its oily residue , bad news like a bore or valve oil leak [emoji57] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Difficult to say how much play is too much on the front droplinks tbh . But the rear arb shouldn't move in the u clamps , id get that sorted fairly sharpish bud . Just make sure you check the size of your rear arb before ordering new d bushes . Does it do it over bumps or just randomly in a straight line ? If its a knock rather than clicking top mounts and bottom balljoint could be worth checking too Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Get a sniff test done to check for headgasket faliure , its about the most reliable way to check to see if hydrocarbons are in the coolant . If there's none . Is the thermostat opening and the rad fans cycling? Have you tried a new rad or header tank cap ? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Lol was that cos i forgot to put the zero in front of the gap sizes ? Ie "0.7mm " standard 0.6 mm for 1 bar of boost and above Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Can't help with the spark plug type tbh but most stick iridum heat 6's in standard scoobs and heat 7's in mapped scoobs . The basic difference in turbo ej engine spark plug type, is the 2.5 engine runs different length plugs to the 2ltr ej engine . As for plug gap i think standard gap is a tad under 7mm but i always gap mine to 6mm due to running higher than stock boost Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Think all gc8 wrx's and sti's ,up to at least v4 were built for the jdm market . We had the uk turbo 2000 , catalunya ,McRae , wr sport , Richard burns ect ... which were basically uk turbos with different trim. Bugeye onwards definitely had wrx's available over here from uk dealers but there was different specs for the uk sti's they sold compared to the import jdm cars . My guess is someone imported your scoob shortly after it was built for the jdm market . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Lowering any car will change the camber as it alters the angle of the wishbones [emoji6] I ran my elbaich pro springs for over 15k miles without any negative affects but i did have a geo set up done once they were fitted Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Just the rear strutts ,bud . the elbaich pro springs and group n top mounts are listed separately . Here's pic when i removed them , only things not there now is the front strutts and top mounts . (they were fubar'd) Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yep as above . Best performance improvements for the na's are handling. To make the most of the awd system and chassis Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Seeing as i haven't advertised this lot anywhere else , I've still got most of it . So thought id bump this buried thread ,to see if any of it is any use to anyone on here Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Probably the only bit i haven't removed off my classic , so tbh i dont know . I'd imagine you would be able to but can't say for sure . Id expect most of the bolts will be pretty rusty and hell'va tight , so best of luck bud Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Your welcome yoss, 🖒 Glad all is well and its up n running again . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Outer c.v's do tend to make a "clicking" with rotation of the wheel on full lock when worn . You might not have heard it with the wheels hanging down , due to there being a lot less stress on them (cars weight) and the difference in the angle of the wishbones . Try doing a slow circle with someone outside the car to see if they can hear it . Make sure it's nothing simple like droplinks or a mud flap catching a tyre . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Sweet thats me paid up , better start showing the scoob some love and get those shiny bits fitted [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

If your only after 280hp a exhaust , panel filter and remap won't be far off . If you want just over 300hp id suggest getting pink injectors and a sti or aftermarket up pipe to go with the turbo you choose. As Your blue 465cc injectors will max at about 320hp , the tdo4 will max at 270hp and the precat in the wrx up pipe will slow spool a bit . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Or can i pay you via PayPal for a sunday ticket ? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Sweet best buy my self a sunday day ticket then [emoji41] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Opps forgot i hadn't payed up for this [emoji849] Is there enough space left on the stand for me , Geoff ? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Sounds like my plan a [emoji41] Get all the mechanical stuff done and enjoy the "sleeper " look . Then fit everything into a fresh clean shell . But i ended up getting the v1sti a bit earlier than planned and in true project car fashion, im now running outta "plan " alphabet letters [emoji23]🤣 Best of luck with it ......... And sticking with plan A [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Thank fook Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Glad you've sussed it , different turbo cores or spec require different oil pressure . So they fit different sizes or bore different size "holes " in the banjo bolts to change oil flow and adjust oil pressure [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

If you're close to suffolk ive got a spare o2 sensor you can try but i want to keep it in case i need it in the future . Although Ive had classics for 6 yrs and never had a o2 sensor fail yet Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Don't think they can be cleaned , well I've never heard of anyone trying tbh . Have you got any ecu codes ? Check plugs /wires to temp ,o2 ,tps and loom plugs /earth . Could be a temp sensor issue , would probably be cheaper to try that first anyways . If yours is a v1/v2 the o2 oe sensor position is in the headers (pre up pipe) if it's a v3 onwards its located in the downpipe "neck" just after the turbo Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Tdo5 /tdo4's are journal based cored turbos which spool slightly slower but hold boost higher in the rev range . Vf series generally have roller bearing cores which spool slightly quicker but handle less abuse and cost more to rebuild due to the bearing core having to be replaced (rather than rebuilt) Top entry and front entry tdo5 16 g turbos make the same power , mine made 347hp on my forged 2ltr classic but they normally make 320 to 330hp on a 2ltr scoob [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk