savage bulldogs

Can't say I've had a issue with either my 97 UK turbo or my 94 sti but both of those were under 90k mls . Just thought i mention that The early classic uk's and jdms have the indicator stalks on the opposite sides and I'm not sure if they're universal ( so try to get 1 off the same year /version )

Is the smell definitely coming from the bay and is there any other running issues ? As the classic impreza runs 3.5 bar of fuel pressure, so if it was a leak between fuel filter and the last injector, I'd imagine that it would be spraying out and a easy spot (not just dripping ). Could be charcoal canister /purge system or fuel tank filler neck maybe

probably a weak spark caused by worn or cracked porcelain on the plugs which then flooded it . Either way happy dayz 👍

Here we go again lol

Can't say from personal experience what their turbos are like but If you go for kinugawa turbo , I've got a 20% off code that needs using up before Xmas

I had a issue with non starting as mine stalled when being drove off the dyno last week . I was stumped as to why it would turn over but no dash lights or power to the ecu . Luckily enough my mapper is a auto electrician and once I'd removed some plastic trim ,he soon found a alarm in line fuse holder with a blown fuse . Just thought I'd mention it as it puzzled me how with the alarm off, it turned over but had no dash lights or attempts at firing up . Looks like you'll have to get a multi meter and do a continuity test on a few of the ecu pins to see if you can track down a break in a circuit. "Ken gilbert" site has some pdf manuals that you can download with a few electrical "checks" you can do .

Always nice to hear that a issue with goods not fit for purpose has been resolved [emoji106] Just a shame that it took a solicitors letter for him to admit that the goods were at fault [emoji53]

Thats a hellva xmas shopping list , hope santas got a leggy estate ..... cos he ain't fitting that lot in a sleigh [emoji39] Seeing as you're writing a list ,i might as well add a few bits too . You'd get better power from sti cams /heads (so if you're gonna buy some heads give that some thought) Brakes to reign in the extra ponies ? 6 speed once its run in and has a big turbo ? Fmic pending on target power? Id ask the engine builder what size head gaskets are required for both the wrx or sti head chambers , as i dont know if the chamber sizes differ between the two models . If they've built the bottom end they'll probably already know the answer and it will save a fair bit research on your behalf[emoji6] Also there's a good chance the piston "bowl " in aftermarket pistons will be different from oe spec, so you'd probably need a different size headgasket to reach the ideal compression ratio (even if you use your old heads ).

Afaik on classics there's 2 types of elbaich springs ,the pro springs (what I had) match the uk turbo/wrx shocks and I found them ideal for a daily. I think they get bad reviews when fitted to the v3 onward red sti shocks as they don't match the stiffer dampening. Where as the p1 springs (also made by elbaich) are much better suited to the sti strutts. The Whiteline arb ,droplinks and roll centre correction kit I run do work well but they are known to corrode prematurely (still work but don't look pretty for long ) My elbaich pro springs still have most of the powder coating in good condition after 4 yrs of salty winters . But that's from personal experience on on my classics . The only person that I know who run tein springs on a newage wrx, had 1 snap just outta warranty and had to buy a full set due to them not selling them singularly.

I dread to think what piggy would buy if he had crack in a pipe , last time he got some rum down him he bought a random dump valve [emoji23] But your right it could well be a vac line, intake pipework or inlet air leak loosing boost . Any codes or other symptoms?

Sorry piggy and op [emoji53] I seem to have pressured piggy into buying a engine and getting a divorce. And turned the op's for sale thread into a motivational neme fest [emoji51]

I'd imagine most electrical faults would flash up a eml anyway but any flat spots or blips in the graph can show any underlying issues (misfire, air leak ,timing ect) plus det and knock can be heard through "det cans " by the mapper .Those main things and or sudden drop in oil pressure would probably be the main cause for any turbo cars engine to eat itself. Knock can also be monitored by the ecu (Bluetooth interface might work on newage to read it ) or aftermarket stuff like , a old skool "knocklink" ,apexi fc ecu or toucan ect . Don't think a turbo timer would monitor any engine parameters though ,bud . It's also a good excuse to tell the Mrs that a trip to the dyno is best for the scoobs health ....... and if you accidently end up getting a map tweek while your there ,who's to know [emoji55]

Only if the Mrs gets your login details [emoji23]

Afr gauge is a good idea for any turbo car (it's on my list of things to fit) but it won't tell you if your getting det or knock (somtimes caused by exessive oil vapour from the breather system) or if there's a timing/electrical issue .

Generally you get more boost in the cold due to the colder denser air.

No abs or airbags from factory in the v1 sti's (saftey is for wooses) with 280 hp and 2 pot front calipers as standard I bet they were a bit kamakzi back in 94 lol

Firestone firehawks (I think) they seem to be rated ok and have got a "bike like" look about the tread which seems to work well . It's difficult to say if they're grippy tyres as I'm running quite a few suspension mods and its not got abs either . I wouldn't just buy the firestones on my say so anyways as I've only ever bought those and a set of sticky kumhos that we're good but didn't last .

Yeah I've got "yin Singh ditchfinders " on the back too . if I buy Uber soft tyres I tend to scrub the outsides out after about 10k . The firestones I put on the front seem to be a good all rounder for £70 a corner . So I'll probably chuck some on the rears next year .

If the oe sti shocks are in good nick I think they work well , I just assumed the rears were "knocking" .As it tends to be a fairly common issue with the newage shocks . So if your not buying shocks at £400 + a set, springs seem like a good option. You could probably sell them on if you didn't like them anyways. Sorry I can't suggest which brand of newage springs to use but I've only ever owned classics. Check to see if your model has front and rear camber bolts .As most imprezas only have front camber bolts, which leaves whoever s doing the geo with no way of adjusting the rear camber once it's lowered and the camber changes [emoji6]

Yeah cutting the braided hose neatly is a pita too [emoji53] I just try not to run it low on fuel and if I do ,i don't use full boost on right hand bends and wait for the straight instead [emoji6]

lmao, lower the tone why not hahahahaha Yeah sorry , I've been in a dyno cell for a couple of hrs today swear i got high of the v power [emoji12] . Ive come down now , so back on track lol , i found that the cost of new shocks n springs wasn't far off medium range adjustable coilovers . So id definitely do your homework on what rate and brand suits you needs as once bought you cant change the height or dampening with the springs n shocks .

Swirl pot and another external pump is the usual way. One of the newage boys has just done a nice swirl pot boot build in the build thread section if you want to see what's involved . I was thinking of a underbonnet swirl pot eventually but that's cos mines a daily driver and has to fit a lot of stuff in the boot .

Too cold to render the outside of a house today so I ended up with a day off work at short notice [emoji57] Quick phone call to Clive attowe tuning and he kindly shifted a few jobs around to fit me in for a couple of hrs on the dyno [emoji41] He's not a subaru "specialist " but he's mapped more than most . There's loads of pics of the different types of cars he's mapped over the years on the outside of the his dyno cell . As for me , 3 hrs of bouncing off the limiter and a good half a tank of shells finest later He thinks its got more to give but the old Fpr seems to be making the fuelling rich when it hits boost and it possibly being restricted on air flow . I've got a fuelab fpr already so it's just breathing mods to be added to the never ending list lol . Although it's not as close to 400hp as I'd have liked ,I'm more than happy with how it drives and pulls now . As attowe managed to pull some fuel out of the "spool area " and for a gt28 standard location turbo ,it spools almost as the old oe turbo [emoji41] Before and after boost graphs . Blue is before I fitted the new actuator and he tweeked the map . Red is the 1.55 bar that it's now running .

The petrol tank has a hump inside for the prop and diff underneath, so they do suffer with fuel starvation. If you have under half a tank and you corner hard right ,The fuel sloshes over to the left halve and leaves the pump pick up side dry [emoji6]