savage bulldogs

Yeah cutting the braided hose neatly is a pita too [emoji53] I just try not to run it low on fuel and if I do ,i don't use full boost on right hand bends and wait for the straight instead [emoji6]

lmao, lower the tone why not hahahahaha Yeah sorry , I've been in a dyno cell for a couple of hrs today swear i got high of the v power [emoji12] . Ive come down now , so back on track lol , i found that the cost of new shocks n springs wasn't far off medium range adjustable coilovers . So id definitely do your homework on what rate and brand suits you needs as once bought you cant change the height or dampening with the springs n shocks .

Swirl pot and another external pump is the usual way. One of the newage boys has just done a nice swirl pot boot build in the build thread section if you want to see what's involved . I was thinking of a underbonnet swirl pot eventually but that's cos mines a daily driver and has to fit a lot of stuff in the boot .

Too cold to render the outside of a house today so I ended up with a day off work at short notice [emoji57] Quick phone call to Clive attowe tuning and he kindly shifted a few jobs around to fit me in for a couple of hrs on the dyno [emoji41] He's not a subaru "specialist " but he's mapped more than most . There's loads of pics of the different types of cars he's mapped over the years on the outside of the his dyno cell . As for me , 3 hrs of bouncing off the limiter and a good half a tank of shells finest later He thinks its got more to give but the old Fpr seems to be making the fuelling rich when it hits boost and it possibly being restricted on air flow . I've got a fuelab fpr already so it's just breathing mods to be added to the never ending list lol . Although it's not as close to 400hp as I'd have liked ,I'm more than happy with how it drives and pulls now . As attowe managed to pull some fuel out of the "spool area " and for a gt28 standard location turbo ,it spools almost as the old oe turbo [emoji41] Before and after boost graphs . Blue is before I fitted the new actuator and he tweeked the map . Red is the 1.55 bar that it's now running .

The petrol tank has a hump inside for the prop and diff underneath, so they do suffer with fuel starvation. If you have under half a tank and you corner hard right ,The fuel sloshes over to the left halve and leaves the pump pick up side dry [emoji6]

The old Fpr is making it richer on boost and intake pipework needs to be bigger . So 359hp will have to do ...... For now [emoji23]

Wheel gaps are like fannies. .... The more fingers you get in em the worse they are [emoji23]

He recons it's being restricted by something[emoji57] he's still working his magic but here's a pic of where we are at the minute

Today I mostly be having a lung full of v power while watching the scooby jump around on the dyno [emoji51]

I let it tick over untill it's demisted enough so I can see then drive without positive boost untill I reach at least 75° oil temp . But my pistons don't like the cold and the engine sounds like I've got Peter pans crockadile under the bonnet untill it's warm [emoji23]

The Only dumb questions are ones that you don't ask imo, bud. I didn't know classics had a igniter untill I researched the newage coil pack conversion . Early Classics create a high amp spark via a igniter behind the boost solinoid bracket .which then looses current as it traveles through the engine loom towards the single coilpacks on top of each spark plug. This needs to be bypassed when fitting newage coil packs as the newage ones have a low amp signal going to the coilpacks. Which is converted to high amp by the coilpacks themselves directly on top of the spark plugs. This gives a stronger spark due to not having to pass hi amp's through the engine loom (less resistance ) . If it was running fine before ,I'd try to get it running again before "changing" anything . Once it's running again either give classic coilpack conversion a google or scroll through my build thread for the pics of coilpacks with pigtails and there's a link with a how 2 .

The newage coils won't just plug in ,you have to solder the pigtails and bypass the igniter. If the igniter has already been bypassed the classic coilpacks will have a very weak spark and could be the issue if so ? I ment if the vac line to the fpr was damaged it could affect the pressure maybe? I'd have thought it would have at least shown some attempt to start on 2 cylinders but just taking the plugs out drying them and cleaning them, might be enough to "unflood" the bores ? . I assume you can smell petrol ? Hope it's a cheap fix and it does seem strange that it's just "stopped working "

I went to work this morning and got froze off the job after 2 hrs standing around outside in -3° . Dunno why that lispy dog pic makes me grin so much but thought it might lighten up the direction the thread was going in . Someone hurry up and build a 400hp, sub £2k, 2.5 ltr engine just in case mine goes bang on the dyno tomorrow [emoji51] [emoji55]

I had elbaich pro springs on my v3 uk classic, which lowered it by 30mm and were ideal for a daily due to their progressive rate . Couldn't say whether they'd be any good on newage sti strutts. As ideally you need to match the spring rates to the dampers to suit your needs . I would suggest going out in a scoob with coilovers and 1 with lowering springs (to get a comparison ). As Garys bug sti has lowering springs and he said my classic dropped 40mm ish on coilovers was a nicer ride than his bug . Mr b knows much more about springs than me so hopefully he'll have a suggestion

Cheers jay I've gotta go out and get some popcorn now ffs lol . It's good to see people being loyal to their tuners, as unfortunately loyalty is a rare comidity now days . Most of us are keen to learn something new and budgets ,opinions and styles will always vary . As long as we remember why we give the forum our time and effort is what we have in common. We're all slaves to the boxer burble ....... (Disclaimer notice) I do like scoobies without the burble too ,so you can leave your pitchforks in the back of your outbacks along with the tartan blankets [emoji23]

Few things to check . Whip the plugs out to see if they're covered in fuel , which they should be if you've got fuel but no spark . Vac line to the fpr , if you've got fuel is it the right pressure . Plugs from the coilpacks connected properly. Have you got spark on all cylinders ? . Passenger side rear , to the back of the inlet manifold is the main engine earth location. It might be worth checking the condition of the connections on each end of the engine loom . 1 by the battery the other is near the boost solinoid bracket (grey plugs ) . Have you tried checking for codes on the old ecu ?

Quite a good write up on the main issues with 2.5 ltr failures and as tidgy said "luck" seems to play a big part . I'm always taking my scoob to bits (out of choice) but if I add anything that changes fueling or air flow , I head for the dyno to check everything running ok before using boost . Even if you haven't added any mods on a standard scoob , I'd suggest a annual dyno run . As £50 dyno run can diagnose issues and save you a fortune in the long run . It also gives you piece of mind when you do give it the big "bwaap stu" too [emoji6]

Glad to hear you've been enjoying the foz . give Alyn @ Asperformance a bell, he'll point you in the right direction and probably have some in stock [emoji6]

I haven't got any popcorn so I'm gonna .. .

Just check the plugs are not corroded on both sensors and that the engine loom has good earth and no breaks in the insulation. Maybe try the old ecu ,reset and check for codes using the classic self code check function As the cold damp weather does tend to bring out the electrical gremlins.

Have you definitely got spark ? As ghost said, check the crank sensor plug (under the alternator) and cam sensor plug (near the oil filler neck) . If either 1 of those isn't giving the correct reading the engine will turn over but not start . Could it be a imoblizer issue ?. When you put the original ecu in did you reset it and check for codes . As the self code check function doesn't work on some aftermarket ecu's . Even if it doesn't start with the old ecu it might be worth a check to see if it gives a code .

Alan used to sell the t36 and t38 (think they were turbo dynamics or turbo technics turbos) for about £1k including delivery and fitting kit . I nearly bought a t38 (400hp) off him but did a bit of research and found that they'd been blowing oil seals within 2k mls . I questioned him about them and he said that he'd stopped selling them and would let me know if the issues were resolved and they'd started reselling them . Guess he's started selling other brands instead of waiting for the issues to be resolved. Keep us posted on the mambas performance and longivity, as I'm bound to blow my aps sr40 up at some point lol

Are you gonna be running a engine tuner t36 turbo or haven't they fixed the oil starvation issues yet ? As I thought about getting a turbo through them but had a read up and decided against it, at least until Alan gave me the heads up that they're not still having issues with them .

I had a spacing issue when fitting my brembos on the front . Like you , I did my homework to make sure the et of my rota boosts would clear them . According to the wonderful Web I'd be fine with a et48 but in the real world the design and profile of my rims ment I had about 1 mm clearance. 3mm spacers now give me just under 5mm clearance and put me on the limit for width ,so they're now flush with the front wings

Yeah I know hybrids make more power than oe spec and I'm not jumping on the "slagging off s.c bandwagon " buddy . Just the likes of a s.c 42 is a cracking turbo but at nearly £1.8 k delivered I'd never be buying one . If I did I'd have to sell my sti saloon and buy a leggy estate ,so I could fit a bed in the back [emoji23] . So I'm always on the lookout for something cheaper too sneak past her radar [emoji6]