savage bulldogs

Just like to point out to the mods on here that ...... Wayyy before I posted anything on this thread [emoji39] I'm self employed and know that earning a good rep is hard but keeping a good rep is even harder . I've been trading for 17 yrs and now win jobs without pricing them and have customers that wait 3 months for me due to my rep . That wasn't earned overnight it was years of training and experience coupled with effort and attention to detail to achieve customer satisfaction . Duncan started off in Suffolk on my local forum teaching himself to tweek open source software 6 yrs later a few people still swear by him on that and many other forums. I used him to road map my esl'd v3 uk about 4 yrs ago . His client list wasn't as long back then and I couldn't fault his customer service for coming back twice in 2 weeks, to tweek the map to sort cold start idle and a eml that come on at full boost . Was my overall personal experience good ? Unfortunately no , a dyno 3 months later showed that it was over fuelling badly and bore washing [emoji53] . I haven't this posted this on any forum before as he's mapped plenty of scoobies since and probably has learned a lot along the way . Why does there seem to be a bit of a marmite mapper rep for him ? I think the lack of technical background winds the big boys at 22b up . After all the likes of ... jgm (rip ) had a part in mapping the euro fighter [emoji41] Pat now works for ecutek helping them develop software . Andy f used to sell his own turbos and his gc8 beast speaks for itself. And they all been in the game for over a decade plus . I dare say after getting most of jgm's client list plus his existing customers he's really busy atm . If he's ever unfortunate enough to read this thread I'd say he needs to get someone to reply to unhappy customers and get the issues resolved asap. As even if something goes wrong with a job I do ,i put it right before moving on to the next paying customer .

Do like the foz sti's [emoji41] I fitted a quieter exhaust to my classic to regain some stealth factor too ...... Cos I just can't get enough of the look on people's faces when you rinse them in their expensive "fast" factory spec cars [emoji23]

At least you can recoup some funds by selling the old closed deck block on . Cos if it's on the original bores and in fairly good nick they go for a minimum of £300 just for the block halves [emoji6]

If you can find out what software he's gonna be using to remap your newage someone might know if it's used to live map or flash a generic map on . Looks like he deals with esl but that's only used on the classic ecu's . I think most newage oe ecu's tend to be remapped with ecutek software. Some mappers do use the term "flashing" when installing a "base map" which is then live mapped bespoke to your scoob . Best of luck and let us know how you get on, bud

Matt's covered most of it but I'd add ... hear it start from cold ,so you can listen for engine knocking and crunchy or whining gearboxes /diff . Regular oil changes with good quality fluids and make sure it doesn't overheat of chuck water out . Oh And check for rust [emoji5]

Can't say I've had a issue with either my 97 UK turbo or my 94 sti but both of those were under 90k mls . Just thought i mention that The early classic uk's and jdms have the indicator stalks on the opposite sides and I'm not sure if they're universal ( so try to get 1 off the same year /version )

Is the smell definitely coming from the bay and is there any other running issues ? As the classic impreza runs 3.5 bar of fuel pressure, so if it was a leak between fuel filter and the last injector, I'd imagine that it would be spraying out and a easy spot (not just dripping ). Could be charcoal canister /purge system or fuel tank filler neck maybe

probably a weak spark caused by worn or cracked porcelain on the plugs which then flooded it . Either way happy dayz 👍

Here we go again lol

Can't say from personal experience what their turbos are like but If you go for kinugawa turbo , I've got a 20% off code that needs using up before Xmas

I had a issue with non starting as mine stalled when being drove off the dyno last week . I was stumped as to why it would turn over but no dash lights or power to the ecu . Luckily enough my mapper is a auto electrician and once I'd removed some plastic trim ,he soon found a alarm in line fuse holder with a blown fuse . Just thought I'd mention it as it puzzled me how with the alarm off, it turned over but had no dash lights or attempts at firing up . Looks like you'll have to get a multi meter and do a continuity test on a few of the ecu pins to see if you can track down a break in a circuit. "Ken gilbert" site has some pdf manuals that you can download with a few electrical "checks" you can do .

Always nice to hear that a issue with goods not fit for purpose has been resolved [emoji106] Just a shame that it took a solicitors letter for him to admit that the goods were at fault [emoji53]

Thats a hellva xmas shopping list , hope santas got a leggy estate ..... cos he ain't fitting that lot in a sleigh [emoji39] Seeing as you're writing a list ,i might as well add a few bits too . You'd get better power from sti cams /heads (so if you're gonna buy some heads give that some thought) Brakes to reign in the extra ponies ? 6 speed once its run in and has a big turbo ? Fmic pending on target power? Id ask the engine builder what size head gaskets are required for both the wrx or sti head chambers , as i dont know if the chamber sizes differ between the two models . If they've built the bottom end they'll probably already know the answer and it will save a fair bit research on your behalf[emoji6] Also there's a good chance the piston "bowl " in aftermarket pistons will be different from oe spec, so you'd probably need a different size headgasket to reach the ideal compression ratio (even if you use your old heads ).

Afaik on classics there's 2 types of elbaich springs ,the pro springs (what I had) match the uk turbo/wrx shocks and I found them ideal for a daily. I think they get bad reviews when fitted to the v3 onward red sti shocks as they don't match the stiffer dampening. Where as the p1 springs (also made by elbaich) are much better suited to the sti strutts. The Whiteline arb ,droplinks and roll centre correction kit I run do work well but they are known to corrode prematurely (still work but don't look pretty for long ) My elbaich pro springs still have most of the powder coating in good condition after 4 yrs of salty winters . But that's from personal experience on on my classics . The only person that I know who run tein springs on a newage wrx, had 1 snap just outta warranty and had to buy a full set due to them not selling them singularly.

I dread to think what piggy would buy if he had crack in a pipe , last time he got some rum down him he bought a random dump valve [emoji23] But your right it could well be a vac line, intake pipework or inlet air leak loosing boost . Any codes or other symptoms?

Sorry piggy and op [emoji53] I seem to have pressured piggy into buying a engine and getting a divorce. And turned the op's for sale thread into a motivational neme fest [emoji51]

I'd imagine most electrical faults would flash up a eml anyway but any flat spots or blips in the graph can show any underlying issues (misfire, air leak ,timing ect) plus det and knock can be heard through "det cans " by the mapper .Those main things and or sudden drop in oil pressure would probably be the main cause for any turbo cars engine to eat itself. Knock can also be monitored by the ecu (Bluetooth interface might work on newage to read it ) or aftermarket stuff like , a old skool "knocklink" ,apexi fc ecu or toucan ect . Don't think a turbo timer would monitor any engine parameters though ,bud . It's also a good excuse to tell the Mrs that a trip to the dyno is best for the scoobs health ....... and if you accidently end up getting a map tweek while your there ,who's to know [emoji55]

Only if the Mrs gets your login details [emoji23]

Afr gauge is a good idea for any turbo car (it's on my list of things to fit) but it won't tell you if your getting det or knock (somtimes caused by exessive oil vapour from the breather system) or if there's a timing/electrical issue .

Generally you get more boost in the cold due to the colder denser air.

No abs or airbags from factory in the v1 sti's (saftey is for wooses) with 280 hp and 2 pot front calipers as standard I bet they were a bit kamakzi back in 94 lol

Firestone firehawks (I think) they seem to be rated ok and have got a "bike like" look about the tread which seems to work well . It's difficult to say if they're grippy tyres as I'm running quite a few suspension mods and its not got abs either . I wouldn't just buy the firestones on my say so anyways as I've only ever bought those and a set of sticky kumhos that we're good but didn't last .

Yeah I've got "yin Singh ditchfinders " on the back too . if I buy Uber soft tyres I tend to scrub the outsides out after about 10k . The firestones I put on the front seem to be a good all rounder for £70 a corner . So I'll probably chuck some on the rears next year .

If the oe sti shocks are in good nick I think they work well , I just assumed the rears were "knocking" .As it tends to be a fairly common issue with the newage shocks . So if your not buying shocks at £400 + a set, springs seem like a good option. You could probably sell them on if you didn't like them anyways. Sorry I can't suggest which brand of newage springs to use but I've only ever owned classics. Check to see if your model has front and rear camber bolts .As most imprezas only have front camber bolts, which leaves whoever s doing the geo with no way of adjusting the rear camber once it's lowered and the camber changes [emoji6]