savage bulldogs

I've got a old skool bailey's chav valve on mine [emoji16] , i've always promised myself that id rig up a recirc but it seems to always take a back seat on the modding list [emoji39]

What year /model is the engine out of and why did you remove it ? Could do with a spare v1 p.s pump what version is it off ?

Nice choice tidgy [emoji41] I think the shafts on the 6 speed change at late 04 plate . I got my conversion stub axles from icp but had heard that you can just pop out the stub axles from a 5 speed and use those . Dunno if that's true but it might be worth a look to save the £80 for new ones 😉

I only really play Conquest but that's definitely best played as a team effort . If the squad leader sets the orders for each flag and you spawn , supply revive ect within the squad , you can get quite a few extra points too [emoji6] .

I've not managed a 1st place position but did have a few good matches last night. Think my best so far was 36 /14 and 2nd place [emoji41] Think my win average is only about 58 % so I've definitely had my fair share of shockers though [emoji5]

Yeah I heard "rent a server" would be added at some point. I'm still getting a good 3 hrs in every night and still enjoying it much more than pogo cod

They might well have used a different loom for the jdm v3 compared to the v3 uk , after all the use different ratios ,turbos ,engines , trim ect . As ghost said the model code on the silver plaque located on the n/s front suspension turret, will tell you what it was when it left the factory. Hopefully if you check the speedo cables are joined properly and make sure all the dash plug connections are ok . You'll find a fault and it will be a cheap fix . If not Does it have any mods , what grade fuel are you using and has it been mapped?

Rum + piggy = chav [emoji23] Next time buy something for a gc8 , cos even if I already have 1 on the scoob, if it's cheap enough I'll probably buy it off ya [emoji6]

The ecu needs a vehicle speed reading especially if it's jdm as the ecu limits the top speed 112 mph . I'd imagine once you reconnect the speedo you'll loose the eml light issue . The mechanical speedo drive cable is in 2 sections , the lower section (gearbox end ) should have a thin wire clip to hold the upper section in place . Is the clip in situ and did you make sure the tab and slot were in line when pushing them together? Are you sure it's a v3 jdm ? I thought they switched to electronic speedo drive at v3 . As my v1 sti is mechanical and my v3 uk was electronic . Keep us posted on how you get on bud .

Forgot to mention if you've had a leaking injector possibly flooding a bore with fuel (especially to the point of hydro lock ) it might be worth checking the oil to see if it needs changing. As if the fuel has washed the oil from the bore it might have got past the rings and into the sump , so if it's due a oil change it might be worth doing it sooner rather than later [emoji6]

Nice progress and it looks sweet too [emoji106] I'll probably fit a under bonnet swirl pot eventually to rid my classic of fuel starvation . It's a common problem on all the imprezas , As the petrol tank has a " hump" in it to give clearance for the propshaft under it . This effectively splits the tank into half (when low on fuel ) and the fuel pump pick up right side gets "starved" of fuel when cornering hard to the right the fuel goes too the left .

Shame you boys are xbone gamers I'd have squadded up with you. you've gotta squad up when playing conquest imo ,cis lone wolf doesn't work well with 63 other players running around on massive maps . The medic with a "m19 (something or another ) sweeper gun ftw .[emoji6]

Sweet, glad it's sorted [emoji106] Best of luck with the remap Wednesday, bud [emoji6]

As Neil suggested whip the plugs out to see if they're covered in fuel and see if it will turn over without compression (no plugs in) What phase rails and injectors are they ? Did you have to use phase adapters and if so are the adapters and both of the o rings fitted correctly? Also check the "fuseable link " in the under bonnet fuse box . If it's blown check your inlet manifold and engine earthing before fitting a new one

Have you spoken to Edwin @ meister r ? As he said that a new strutt was about £70 and they sell the springs , top mounts ect for the gc8's separately too. Here's the email address I was using when chatting to him before buying mine . info@meisterr.com

Might have to get me some of this, as the waxoil I've been using is getting a bit low and I fancy trying something different.

Mrs calls it "her" normally cos she says I "spend more time n money on her than my wife". Kids call it the "beaSTIe" .[emoji4] I just call it "the scoob" [emoji57] Normally cos the wife asks what's that parcel for or what are you doing on your day off ? "The scoob " is normally my reply [emoji23]

No problem bud ,I love to learn something new and always keen to share when I do [emoji106] Some of the "staged" power up grade packs on subaru tuner pages always discribe heat 7's as a upgrade and from what I've previously read, it was due to the better heat properties . So I just assumed they coped with higher heat not burnt off carbon at a lower temp . I've had the same set of 7's in my forged build for 4 yrs / 20 k without any issues but admittedly I did give them a clean up and regap when I fitted the engine into the v1 sti . Couldn't tell you if that's the right part number as I can't remember what mine was . They'd probably be different if your's is a 2.5 as the 2.5's run different length plugs anyways [emoji6]

Just had a quick Google and apparently it looks like everyone recommends the "cooler " 7's to lessen the chance of carbon build up not burning off . Not because they're hotter burning (like I assumed ) well spotted [emoji106] But I'd still stick by the same recommendation of 7's , although it's for different reasons [emoji6]

Think just about everyone runs ngk heat 7's, as they're a slightly hotter running plug than the factory spec ngk heat 6's and therfore cause less misfire issues due to the extra heat produced by the boxer layout when running higher than standard power . If the spark is a bit weak or your running extra boost (remapped) scoobs can "blow the spark out" (hence using a smaller gap ) If it's running standard boost and everything else is healthy you should be fine with a standard gap . Just be careful when re fitting plugs cos it's easy to crack the porcelain insulation and cause a misfire problem which can be over looked easily. As you don't think it's a plug issue due to fitting new ones [emoji6]

No problem bud , if you get chance phone either alyn @Asperformance or Ian @godspeed rather than emailing them . As it will be much easier to get the info you need specific to your budget and needs over the phone .

I'm not too clued up on the newage fitment but was fairly sure that the newage sti hatch has a different pcd to the hatch wrx ? The likes of as performance or godspeed do sell handbrake shoe Conversion kits and either alyn or Ian will know the definite answers to all your braking questions . Afaik if you run the same hub type (ie r160 or R180 ) the shoes are the same size and in answer to the earlier disc dia question ... yes 4 pots run 298 mm discs and brembos run the 326mm discs, although Ian @ godspeed does sell brackets to convert the 4 pots to run larger dia discs . I've seen plenty of scoobs running 2 pot "subaru" rears with big brakes up front (k sport ,ap's ,brembos ect ) without any bias issues , probably due to the small % of braking done by the rear compared to the front .

Think I've possibly got a v3/v4 maf at home , I'm not back till Tuesday so I'll have a look then . Good possibility that you've blackened the plugs if it's only been running on cold idle starts and especially with possible maf issues . Regap the plugs to 0.6 mm when refitting and it should help if it's a "spark on boost " misfire making the plugs black.

There is a company that sells the 5 speed gearbox strengthening plates which are supposed to help but like the op I haven't seen too much evidence to support that they work well . You can buy ppg gears sets which make the 5 speed much stronger but they cost about the same as a 6 speed just for the kits (no labour inc) . I don't think that you use the strengthening plates while upgrading the gear sets either but I don't know much about them as I went 6 speed instead . Your blobeye will have the slightly stronger ty54 5 speed so if the mapper keeps the torque down you'll probably be ok . I wasn't aware that any oe subaru turbos would hit 370hp on a 2ltr engine anyways ?

Yeah my ar5e was twitching like a rabbit's nose [emoji23] . Seeing as I drive a 22yr old car I've always got a selection of tools n parts in the boot [emoji39]