savage bulldogs

I think my old 5zigen jasma system was the loudest and dirtiest sounding set up I've heard. All my mates loved it and 1 said that "if my car was a film star it would be a spit roasted buxom blonde on !Removed! tube " Still Dunno if that's a complement or not but I have changed for something a little bit more subtle now anyways.

Yeah from what I've read Harvey smith ( rip ) did loads of tests using old school "bore and flow " methods .to find the best size intake, outlet and bore size to increase flow /spool . So if you did go for the "Harvey trick up pipe " you'd be better of knowing what headers and turbo hotside you'll be using so Alyn @Asperformance can match it up with the right size up pipe [emoji6]

Although supertech stuff is good quality, I was advised that the oe stem seals are good for 500 hp +. Especially if you use the exhaust valve seals on all the valves (intake valves too) ,as the exhaust valve stem seals are made from a better quality vitron rubber to cope with the heat compared to the oe intake stem seals [emoji6]

Either haywood and Scott or a "matched" trick up pipe from Asperformance ftw , both of which are slip jointed [emoji6]

@Piggysniffer it's a haywood and Scott slip jointed up pipe, takes the stress of the manifold and up pipe gaskets . It's now on sandys scoob anyways lol , I'm now running the up pipe that came with the groupe headers .

The turbo and up pipe can be removed with the engine in situ . In a ideal senario if everything just comes undone it's probably about 4 hrs work to remove and refit [emoji41] But if it's not been off before ,you can add another 3 hrs ,6 plasters and a full swear tin [emoji23] . Only use genuine subaru gaskets or they'll be leaking again in no time [emoji30] Have a look on import car parts for turbo /up pipe fitting kit for your version. As you'll need .... Manifold to up pipe gasket . Turbo inlet (up pipe to turbo) gasket. Turbo outlet gasket . Studs and nuts (as your bound to snap or round off something) . And downpipe outlet conical fire ring gasket . If the heatsheilds look like they've seen better days and fall apart when you start , get some heat wrap and stainless steel ties to recover the up pipe. Rough run through .....Remove the tmic and bung any open pipes ,take note /mark up the vac lines before removing them. Remove the downpipe completely . There's a bracket on the up pipe at attached to the head loosen that off and remove the oil feed from underneath the bracket . Up to you if you want to buy new copper washers for refitting the oil feed banjo but I would to save having to do it all again [emoji6] Here's a pic of the manifold to up pipe and the support bracket . When refitting bolt the turbo ,up pipe and bracket loosely then nip it up tightening the bracket last .

Cos I don't get moaned at spending other people's money [emoji12]

Well that's me out , although I'm lucky enough to have a petrol head Mrs , I don't think she's gonna want to go to a car show on our anniversary [emoji23]

Whats the date of this, chaps?

You'd need a mappable ecu or esl daughter board fitted at about £600 supplied and mapped which should see 280 hp . If you want to break the 300hp mark ,add a fmic and yellow injectors (add other £300 + fitting). Then it should see 320hp ish .

I've got a spare converted coldside though , if you fancy a 340hp capable turbo [emoji6]

Unfortunately , I'd already built my engine with another v1sti long engine before I decided to save my brvs clean shell from the scrappies . Although the engine I used was from another v1sti of the same year , it's not original. I kept the block 2ltr and I didn't thrust convert the cdb ,which most do to take the later phase 2 onwards or 2.5ltr crank . I did have a 0.5 mm over bore done just to make sure there was no bore taper . It depends how original you keep it but the pistons ,rods and crank would have to be "aftermarket " possibly different cams /later better flowing heads at mid 400's . I couldn't tell you what a 400hp + safe engine would cost built but as a guide, you'd be looking at a min of 2k in engine parts /machine costs + labour and block (if your not using yours ) . As for when I build another one, I'll probably take my engine out ,chuck a cheap engine in and turn the boost down (a lot ). But I've pulled the motor on mine a few times now [emoji15] As i pushed a crank seal in to far when I first built mine and it chucked oil out behind the flywheel [emoji30] [emoji35] [emoji36]. From sat morning till Sunday lunchtime I'd had the engine out , back in and running up to temp 4 times till I spotted my school boy error and fixed the leak lol . Once you've set a budget id suggest to email a few reputable engine builders , to get a idea what sort of route /spec you can afford .

It's definitely a aftermarket switch, could have had a flamer kit , anti lag /launch control ect . Whip the center consul off to see if it's wired up and if so trace the wires back maybe ?

I do like a custom build , me [emoji41] Some lovely fabricating and body work right there too , it looks a beast [emoji106] Looks like you've created a lot of space at the front of the bay it's almost screaming out for a blown h6 [emoji39]

If you need to have the scoob on the road asap ,then buying a built engine would mean that it would be off the road for less time. You could then sell your cdb (assuming your current engine is a cdb) to recoup some funds afterwards . Otherwise I'd expect it to be off the road for at least a fortnight, even if the engine builder you use does the machine work "in house" . Cos if they rebuild your current block , they've gotta remove ,strip ,clean ,machine ,build and refit . If your fairly good with a spanner you could save a bit by removing the current engine and fitting a built engine . You'd probably save another grand + if you build it yourself but (as aucky said) if it does go bang you've got no warranty to fall back on .Although I did enjoy building mine and will probably be doing another one at some point [emoji4] You probably already know that You'll need box and clutch and brake upgrades , as well as bigger turbo and injectors too (extra £4k in parts) but just thought I'd mention it [emoji6] Have you thought of what budget and route you'll set just for the engine ? Best of luck whichever route you take [emoji106]

I'd imagine they'd be standard wrx / uk turbo cams ,which are lowest lift /duration cams they put in turbo imprezas. Afaik the v1sti cams are better and a straight swap. I'm unsure if all the v2 sti cams are the same as the v1sti ,as some of the v2sti ra's have been known to have the under bucket shims (which might use a different profile on the cam journal). Think piper ,Kent or Brian crower do uprated cams for most ej heads . Maybe you can cross check the part numbers to see if v2,v3/v4 cams fit ? . As the v3/v4 sti cams are the most agressive cams subaru fitted to the pre phase 2 heads [emoji6]

I would say welcome back but this post is a bit useless imo [emoji16] Well seeing as you haven't included a pic of a subaru you can at least tell us your budget. ... So we can hurry the process up a bit and find 1 for ya, Rick [emoji6]

Got the p.m but can't add pics on those [emoji6] If your's is definitely a v1 jdm I'd imagine that it would be the same as my v1 sti's loom . I just happen to have a pic on my phone of the speed sensor output pin that I used for the avcr I had a fault with the speed sensor output on both the apexi avcr and the f.c ecu . So I did have a good route around the speed sensor output wiring diagram and the correct ecu pinout coloured wire (in my 1st pic) doesn't appear at the back of the clocks on the dash harness. So you'll have to connect near the ecu or trace that wire back from that pin . Let me know if you have the same colour wires in the same order on your loom plug and if you can find the correct pin from my crappy pics . Here's another random pic of the loom plug too see if it's the same . If not I'll dig the manual out tomorrow [emoji6]

Not that sparks is my forte but I spliced my avcr "speed pick up " wire from a ecu pinout diagram that was included in the fitting manual . What year/ model and country is your scoob? If it's covered in the avcr multi fitting diagrams, I'll let you know the ecu speed sensor pin but I've only got early classic wiring diagrams on the p.c .

At least I'm not the only one with a optimus prime themed bay [emoji41]

Both front n rear doors are the same on classic saloon and wagons . The door glass does have different colour tints (usually) jdm is black tint uk is green Afaik. If your fitting the whole door bear in mind, the wiring harnesses for the leccy windows /central locking, do have different connectors on early jdm to uk versions.

Will admit subaru do seem to be really good with any recall issues . Couple of years ago they were recalling due to rusty wishbones on newages too . So anyone who investigates if they're part of the new issue should probably ask about the older wishbone issue while asking . Well either that or buy a v1 sti as mine has no airbags and un rust'able ally wishbones as standard [emoji39] Now Toyota on the other hand are shocking with their recalls , after being told my mum's 7yr old car didn't need a steering column recall ....... 4 days later the column fell off [emoji36] [emoji35] [emoji33] . Luckily enough it was as she pulled on her drive and not going down the carriage way. I was proppa miffed as I had taken the car to them 4 days previous for them to check . No help to get the car to them and they couldn't get a "technician " to us . I fixed it drove it to the local dealers , parked it across the entrance to their showroom/workshop , unfixed it ,gave them the keys and walked off . Got a apologetic phone call and a free minor service 2 hrs later . Not that I'd ever take her car to them again to use the voucher or ever buy a Toyota.

Alyn at Asperformance does some form of 114 to 100 hub conversion ( to upgrade to the stronger R180 bearings ). So he might be worth a call ,as a worst case scenario he'd know what's compatible and what's not .

Hopefully stants isn't right and your just using the wrong socket and extension combo . As they're a pita to get to and if the thread is fubar it's probably a "remove the cylinder head job " to helicoil the thread .

How much fuel was in the tank and did it cut out just after a right hand turn ? As scoobs are notorious for fuel sloshing in the tank and causing boost cut ,when you have under half a tank [emoji6] Search on here for "classic self ecu code check" to see if you've got any codes stored .