savage bulldogs

Once I'm happy with the bodywork on my classic ,I want to get the interior back to standard . So you could be a handy fella to know . As I'd like to get the aclantra on my door cards redone and a set of front classic bucket seats retrimmed to oe v1/v2 sti spec and colour .

I used some old school axle stands (I've owned them for ages ) along with a halfrauds "pro" yellow jack. The jack has seen plenty of abuse during my use and is still going strong

No probs, I think I got mine from Mark at lateral performance for about £40 including new O rings and longer cap bolts /spacers . Just don't fit them until just before you're ready to have a remap ,cos it will over fuel, need to be kept at low revs and off boost untill it's rescaled. I know where you're coming from with the Mrs. Only time I successfully multi task is when I buy something for the car and pi55 her off at the same time [emoji23]

The v5/v6 phase 2 rails and lines won't fit your inlet ,bud . Your v1 will have a phase 1 fuel rail set up but if you just buy some v5/v6 phase 2 yellow 440cc injectors , you can use "phase adapters" to make them fit directly into your rails .

Clutch peddle and bite had been feeling a bit unusual lately, so I thought id check the fluid . I recon that I'd probably cooked it as it was proppa black but it's back to normal peddle feel after a fluid refresh [emoji6] So chucked a sponge at the old girl .... Then washed the scoob and give it a coat of colinite [emoji39]

I think the hatch ones do fit as when I was speaking to Alyn at "Asperformance" about pads for my classic he asked if they were bug/blob or hatch brembos that I'm running. Give him a bell as he'll know if they're a straight fit and if not he'll probably sell the bit's needed to make them fit.

I used the ones on ken gilbert for my early classic, think there's a link on the first or second page of my build thread . Could it be a pop up of firewall setting on your p.c ? Most of the front end rust pics look like it's just the manifold heat shields . Not too sure if you can get replacements but you could always remove the headers take the oe heatsheilds off and wrap the headers in heat wrap . I'd say that the arb to chassis brackets look quite corroded but I just removed mine ground them back to bear metal .Then give them a coat of hammeright rust killing primer and smooth black paint . Seems to have held up ok for 2 winters so far . Most get a uprated Whiteline arb ,which solves the look of twiglet looking standard arb for a while .As imo Whiteline stuff seems to do the job well but it rusts fairly easy and doesn't look mint for long .

Ooh stronger gearbox and mansized boost is it tidgy [emoji4]

Dunno if that's aimed at my last comment Mr b ,as I wasn't very clear with my "aftermarket " discription. I ment the bigger bore and better flowing intake pipe would only help if mapped in [emoji6] I do agree about about the recirc ,I'd personally refit 1 if my custom pipework wasn't so frankenstien [emoji23]

Most of the money I've spent on my 94 sti has been through choice . Don't think I've ever had to spend money on mine cos something broke ....well unless you count me pushing to much power through my 5 speed and turning it into a 4 speed .[emoji23]

Hi n welcome, Denise. Enjoy the forum and keep us updated on any shows you have planned for next year [emoji6] Oh and don't forget the pics we like pics [emoji5]

Did you check the fuse box behind the plastic trim next to the accelerator peddle?

A good aftermarket one would probably give slight performance gains but like most engine breathing mods , you'd only get the benefit and saftey if it's mapped in. Glad to here it got a clean bill of health on the dyno .. . Now you can spend all you spare time and cash on v power to keep you grinning [emoji39]

I've had a few gm's in the past too just don't mention Honda some of the boys on here love to kick in a vtec [emoji55] feel free to jump in on any of the threads . start a build thread to track your progress with pics if you like [emoji6]

Have you got any codes on the ecu ? checked all relays and fuses both under the bonnet and under the drivers side kick panel . If you've been running it low on fuel did you take the fuel line off after the fuel filter or before (could the filter be blocked)

When you start it then it stalls, will it start up straight away if you prime the pump again by turning the key back to 0 and turn the key to start it again ? Have you checked the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator ? As it might just be starting on the initial pump prime and surge in pressure. If the fpr is ok it does sound like something is cutting the "constant " power to the pump that it should have when running .

Nice clean looking preface classic you've got there [emoji106] Any plans for it or are you just gonna fill up and enjoy ?

There's 2 types on the market, 1 type you have to put a oe gasket either side of the spacer (4 inlet gaskets needed) and I bought mine from advanced automotive and they have o rings provided instead of gaskets

Lol . I haven't got any before and after intake temp comparisons but the inlet manifold physical feels cooler than it did without them . I went for 8mm ones as I'm running a custom inlet and fmic pipework . The only issue I found was my v1 classic header tank bottom pipe seemed a bit stretched but the smaller thickness ones should be fine.

Sounds right but you'll have to "unbung" the end of the return port and reconnect it to the turbo intake pipe, to get it to recirc properly.

Being a 22yr old engine I'd say that you'd be better off re freshing the bottom end as well . Can't help with the headgasket thickness I'm afraid but if you're using the oe pistons /heads and the heads don't need skimming a standard thickness gasket would be fine. If you have to get the head faces skimmed or change the pistons the only tech info I can give of the top of my head , to help calculate the gasket thickness, is that the v1/v2 cylinder head chambers are 46cc in capacity. Once the crank is out check it over before ordering the shells, as subaru cranks don't like to be reground. If the journals are just outside subaru spec you might be lucky enough to get away with "oversized shells " .Most use the acl brand shells . Plastigauge the bottom end on reassembly to be sure the clearances are correct . Bear in mind that a full oe gasket kit ,timing belt kit,new shells and water pump won't give much change from £900 [emoji6]

I haven't got my v3 uk anymore but here's a pic of the standard recirc valve fitted to my old v3 inlet manifold.

Yep the valves work with hydraulic lifters . Unless your lucky enough to have the "under bucket shim " type heads ,then they can be adjusted slightly by fitting different size shims . Either way your probably looking at a engine out and top end rebuild unfortunately.

Have a word with Doug @ G19 engineering , he does the mx5 turbo conversions for a living . If your just after a tdo5 16g that will physically fit then any front entry oe impreza tdo5 16g will do the job . It's only the aftermarket tdo5's that come in 18 and 20 g

I didn't see the mx5 post on there doh . If it's a stock single scroll turbo it will have the 3 bolt flange on the bottom . The only difference on a stock tdo5 16g subaru turbo is the intake side , some are top entry and some are front entry (like in your pic)