savage bulldogs

V1 and v2 don't have ht leads bud . They have individual coil packs on top of each spark plug. They're prone to cracking and causing the spark to jump from coilpack to cam cover. Which in damp conditions can get worse and cause a misfire. I'd visually check for signs of wear or arc'ing out on the coilpacks themselves, when fitting the spark plugs . If the problem is still there after fitting the spark plugs and the coilpacks look iffy , I wouldn't bother fitting second hand ones (as they'll be 20 yrs old) Either new classic ones or a newage coilpack conversion would be the best route .

My "newage" spec isn't too sharp tbh but you could find out what turbo and gearbox ratio yours has . Then cross reference those with uk and jdm spec to see which model it's based on maybe ? . I started off with a cheap 4 in 1 gauge just to keep a eye on oil ,pressure /temp and boost ,as I wasn't keen on to many distractions while driving. Now (somehow ) My interior looks like a airplane cockpit ffs [emoji55] So I'm probably not the best one to give you any pointers [emoji23]

The avcr will make it easier to "map" the boost curve and once set up , the gear judge function will help keep the boost the same in every gear [emoji41] . It's not capable of adjusting fueling and timing though , which is a shame for us but think they'd be a lot of mappers out of a job if it could [emoji6] As for extra power and torque most standard turbos will make a extra 50 hp ish than what they left the factory with. So a decent remap is about the best bhp for buck mod imo . Obviously it depends on the model of scoob as to what max power a standard turbo will make but generally a sti will make 330hp and a wrx will make 260 hp with supporting mods and a remap on the standard turbos. As for my position for the avcr it's just under the head unit in my classic .

Glad it was something simple . I wouldn't suggest you increase the boost without having a way of monitoring afr / knock and be able to listen for det (Ie on a dyno ). Probably me being over cautious but engine builds ain't cheap . Saying that , I've had a bit of a play with mine and set up the gear judge function and raised the boost above stock a bit . But my fueling and timing were set for 1.5 bar before I fitted the avcr . Then once fitted i set it at 1 bar and tweeked the solinoid duty untill it was stable . The set the gear judge function and then raised it to 1.2 . I knew the fueling was set for higher boost so I knew it wouldn't lean off and go bang [emoji6] The mapper then upped the boost to 1.55 bar and tweeked the fueling /timing to suit on his dyno .

Tbh I haven't decided if I want to keep the v1 and mod a ally tank ,fit a v3/v4 or switch to newage. A friend is breaking his 93 wrx and it only cost me £20 , and the old 1 whines more than the Mrs when I hit boost . Did you just fit the end of the v1 steering rack to pump hard pipe into the 02 pump , like you do with the v3/v4 pump conversion ? There's a few shiny and preface bits left on that 93 wrx let me know if you need anything fellas [emoji6]

Not yet but I guess I'll be nipping into halfrauds to make the most of the club discount and pick up a can of hammerite at the weekend [emoji12]

Don't worry about that James [emoji6] I've only owned it for a hr and it looks like this already [emoji5]

Powersteering pump is getting noisier by the day, so I picked up a new one. Well it was new 24yrs ago [emoji23]

My old v3 uk bay V1sti 's bay Bit of a "olds cool" optimus prime theme going on with both of mine [emoji55]

The rear arches are the first thing the salt attacks on classics but the early classics are nearly 25 yrs old . You can always get round rust by either buying a clean 1 , buying 1 that had them repaired or buying a recent / fresh jdm import . Your probably less likely to loose as money on a classic, say over 3yrs but they are a raw drive and less refined than a bugeye onwards (newage) . If its just rust thats putting you off ,Id suggest to drive both classic and newage to see what suits you best My classic takes my family of 4 to the airport laden with cases (practical enough ) but my mum don't like it apparently " it's like being in a go cart" [emoji4]

Tbh I didn't know they had a date code but if they've got a bar code a smartphone bar code reader might give you a bit of info ?

Hi tom , sorry to hear it's not running right . Those codes and symptoms do point to a maf or misfire fault . Shame you're not closer as we could've tried my maf on your scoob to see if it's fubar. Have you tried taking the maf off and cleaning it with brake cleaner ? If you do don't touch the wire inside and make sure it's thoroughly air dried before plugging it back in [emoji6] The v1 / v2 mafs are normally pretty strong and don't fail as often as the v5 /v6 ones . It's probably worth looking at the spark plugs too .as if 1 of them is wet or blacker than the rest it could indicate that there's a misfire, causing the unburnt fuel to pop n bang in the headers . All the best ,bud

The idle is raised to 1.1k ish when on cold start so could easily mask rough idle issues . Tbh since fitting the bigger turbo mine has stalled a couple of times when warm and suddenly dipping the clutch (heavy braking ) . I just assumed it was the flutter /turbo stall affecting the idle airflow . Unfortunately it's only occasionally and it's far to cold to investigate atm . I intend on cleaning the icv and replacing it's gasket to see if that resolves it and if not mark it's original position and adjust the icv to see if I can solve it .

Obviously all the v1/v2's are 20 yrs old , so condition plays a major part . My original engine was a sti long engine (hand built n blueprinted) with sti cams , forged pistons ( albeit the weakest ones ) and cdb from the factory. Mine was running 330hp fine for 5k but it ate 2 jdm ty52 5 speeds in 1k @ 347hp [emoji53] so I'd say 320hp /330hp would be about the limit on a healthy non sti engine and ty52 5 speed gearbox . Unless you've got the sti long engine and cash for a later ty54 or 6 speed conversion . Even then I've heard that once you pass 1.5 bar that the heads can "lift" causing the headgaskets to fail even on a freshly built classic standard engine .

@ Phill it's a aps sr40 (American stock location garret gt28rs ) which should make high 300's and it's making/holding boost fine . Tbh i made 347hp with the old tdo5 16g and standard engine [emoji41] so it's probably something that I've done that's holding it back lol . For £200 second hand turbo ,I can't moan and I'm happy with how the car goes , so i don't intend on buying another turbo ..... yet [emoji55]

Me too ,best of luck with it piggy [emoji106]

It's a early 1994 v1sti which only weighed 1230kg when it left the factory. Although It's probably a bit heavier, due to the 6 speed and it's not running as many ponies as I'd like ..... it hit 359.9hp on the dyno in December and looks pretty much standard the outside [emoji4]

Gave it a dam good spanking while rinsing a 16 plate 7 series [emoji41] he was not a happy bunny after failing for the 3rd time trying to undertake my old shed spec scooby, he was punching his steering wheel and directing air traffic with his hands [emoji23] He probably had the last laugh though .... As it took me a good 10 mins to pick my 150pc socket set up from all over the boot floor [emoji30]

Standard restrictor pills are under £5 from subaru main dealers and they will order the correct part when asked over here in the UK . There's a few opinions on the net as to what the restrictor pill actually does ? . From what I've learned while fettling my scoobies is that it's to reduce boost spike when the engines under greater loads . ie uphill in 5th compared to downhill in 1st at the same revs and throttle position , would create different vac line pressure and affect the boost solinoid duty and boost targets met . Have you tried removing the pill all together ? . I always get my map "tweeked " after fitting mods but both of my classics ran fine with 3 port solinoids and no pill in situ . Although before I fitted the avcr, I did used to get a 0.2 bar difference in peak boost between 1 st and 6 th. Unfortunately I don't know much about the spec of later fozzies ,so all I can suggest is to put a few bits back to standard untill you resolve the issue . Then save up for a remap before bolting on anymore airflow mods. Although that's only my opinion

A quick call to a subaru main stealer parts department will tell you the right size pill for your model [emoji6]

I'd try refitting the old tmic to see if it's because the aftermarket 1 is causing the problem. Also if it still does it with the old 1 on, then It might be possible that the vac lines weren't put back correctly? . Otherwise if everything is fitted properly and you haven't got a intake leak (from the y or intake pipework ), I'd say that your mechanic is right and you'll need the bigger tmic mapped in . Tbh scoobies don't like changes in airflow and can go bang if mods are just "bolted on " and not mapped in. air fuel ratio is more important on turbocharged cars than it is on a N/A engines due to the amount of air flowing through them .

I'm unsure if you can read ecu codes on you model with a Bluetooth odb connecter and a smart phone but that would be my first point of call (see what codes the ecu is throwing up ). Are you getting overboost when the boost is unstable ? . Or is it "cutting" the boost ? What brand / size is the aftermarket intercooler ? Is it a tmic or fmic ? Could you try refitting the old tmic to see if it's causing the problem . As it might be a intake air leak or vac line issue .

If all the functions we're working on the avcr before, you have to splice about 6 wires into the engine loom in order to make it work . If everything was working fine before, My guess would be that you've disturbed something when fitting the radio . So start off by tracing the wires back from the avcr and check that everything is connected properly and any bare wires are insulated. I have got a avcr manual which shows what pins from most ecu's you need to connect each avcr wire too . Let me know how you get on and if it's not a obvious loose wire, I'll dig it out and take a few pics .

Nippy bum time in my scoob today [emoji33] [emoji90] [emoji158] Had a typical Audi driver cut in front of me with no indication and hitting the brakes hard in front of me [emoji36] for 2 miles he sat tailgating the car in front of him , continuously dabbing the brakes to the point of almost giving me a photosensitive seizure [emoji15] . Naturally you leave a big gap behind this sort of driver to avoid having to hit the brakes every 3 seconds yourself . As we approached the turn off I saw the back end of his car jolt upwards, like during heavy braking . ...... Audi hits the car in front and I stop on a sixpence 20 ft behind him with hazards on [emoji87] . No major damage done to either of the cars involved just cracked bumpers and hopefully a lesson learned [emoji6] So I'll also say +1 for the pfc pads [emoji23] . Although I bought mine from alyn @ Asperformance and they're only noisy when backing off the driveway . Dunno if there's different types , so im not splitting hairs DDoc [emoji6] .but mine are "carbon metallic" pfc pads in the front brembos with grooved n drilled godspeed discs and no abs .

Shame the bug looked a nice clean base car but hey its gc8's ftw imo too lol . I saw a v5 /v6 sti wagon with a knocking bottom end for £2k on 1 of the many face book pages. £2k seemed steep but it looked like quite clean car, same colour as your last wagon too [emoji6]