Mr B

I would check timing followed by sensors/wriing as pretty sure it cutting ignition once reads sensor correlation off .

are you on standard ecu, mapped ecu, aftermarket ecu, piggyback controllers ? was power removed while doing belt service ? I would be triple checking your timing to subaru timing diagram in depth and good visual on timing sensors harnesses etc . If you got the ability review sensor data while cranking .

So you actually check spark and it a crank no spark or you just assuming no spark as not firing .

Is it sparking when cranking ?

possibly if reads sensor correlation off it may set a code and cut ignition/fuel . check codes and check for spark cranking, once done that triple check your timing to workshop diagram and also review sensors and harnesses for damage . Best way fit these belts if not use to marks is mark old one to each pulley and add a C to distinguish crank with marker then count teeth and transfer marks to new belt .

Oe bush fit fine on everyone i ever done bush measures 55mm in length, 38.22 outer diameter and as stated 12mm inner diameter . If that appears correct you can use adl bush (ads78011) or febi bush (29375) or if want polybush use strongflex 271143B febi bilstein bushes are less than £10 each . other option is resize sleeves if enough metal .

HG is the common one and can have odd and sneaky symptoms in early stages. You want rule out basics of water flow from things like thermostat, rad core, water pump rotor etc, cooling system wants pressure testing and chemical test during a hot run . check plug colour, check bottom join of head to block for any signs of leak issue gunge along the join. We get quite a few that pass gas sniff test and chemical test but it the HG and time proves it if nothing else can .

Check the level sensors that has a drop arm attaching to wishbone front and lateral link rear. the drop arms corrode and fall off and sensor itself can have function issues from ingress of moisture is a thread on here I replied to with more technical details . Sometimes these can be a easy diy visual diagnosis & homemade fix and sometimes will need parts or have something harder diagnose .

Use kyb struts and suplex springs and it cost about £210 use kyb springs and it about £260 kyb struts http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-REAR-SHOCK-ABSORBERS-SUBARU-FORESTER-97-02-Protection-KIT-KYB-334191-334192/182324780533 kyb springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-OE-Quality-Replacement-KYB-K-Flex-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Spring-RA5761/191483547263 suplex springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-OE-Quality-Replacement-Rear-Suspension-Coil-Spring-SUP032034-/141542632909 Easy job if drop link bolts not rusted mess and brake lines separate and reusable . Will make huge difference to ride and handling as yours totally collapsed . looks tidy for a 98, have fun with your classic station wagon ...

get a koyo japan bearing kit and nothing else, koyo oem bearing supplier, they under £50 for rear bearing kit (check rear axle type (probably R160) to get right bearing) We only use koyo and have pretty much unheard of wheel bearing comebacks, cheaper stuff like optimal and even skf no way close the quality of koyo japan . Can be fitted in an hour easily if have a hub bearing replacement tool kit as do it on car with less dismantling, the long hub bolt through the lateral links is only thing that can be trouble if rusted real bad Worth giving that good dose of wd40 daily for 2 or 3 days prior to getting job done if looks crusty . even with bit of bother with this hub bolt you looking at 1.5hrs to 2hrs absolute max .

Is a p1ss poor design and accessory situation by subaru though . with amount of subarus that have towing hardware you think they wouldn't of overlooked this ! If you wanted a hitch backplate you would be in trouble, plus lot of amateur towers going be buying a few fog lenses lol ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-BUGEYE-2-0-OFFSIDE-FRONT-SUSPENSION-LOWER-WISHBONE-ARM-00-03/292388342626 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-BUGEYE-2-0-NEARSIDE-FRONT-SUSPENSION-LOWER-WISHBONE-ARM-00-03/302582845326 see if do bit better price as shipping together, also may need the cones that sit inside the alloy arms if not with it (about £25 for 2 of them)

Good luck and don't rush it, plenty very tidy outbacks out there if don't rush it. happy hunting ....

2.5 head gaskets tend get all of them eventually it just matter of time some quicker than others, not end of the world but something look at when buying and have some funds backup just in case . I prefer extra ride height in outback, better view and better clearance in general b road ditches and town curbs etc . I would try view 4 or 5 local even if above your price if local dealer just get feel and experience on the car model and if dead set on 2.5 stick with viewing that engine model only . plenty good legacy/outbacks out there and they generally good priced as not much demand once winter over, probably be month or 2 before used market picks up due to xmas/ny .

best way really, car oem satnav more hassle than benefit lot of the time .

navigation (satnav)

Most run 95 on 3.0, not a massive difference in fuel economy but other gearbox specs of models may sway your opinion . 2.5 not subarus best, the 3.0 is proper decent . both 2.5 and 3.0 is pretty cheap on used market and lot of clean proper nice ones about, we never struggle find outbacks, foresters are harder find proper nice If found either engine model superb order you'd be silly give it a miss, no newer late 2005 best bet and saves you £215 each year to put towards fuel . 3.0 saves cambelt cost and potential head gastet issue of the 2.5 estimate your mileage and costs and decide what best for you . test drive both even ones at local traders you may not want buy as gives experience and easier judge good/bad more you see/test .

3.0 is chain , 2.5 is belt get a 3.0 as way better engine and reliability. keeping to a 2005 saves money too as from 06 road tax goes up £215 yearly so keeping in 2005 lower bracket saves good amount of cash . prices are cheap for what can get if make effort and not bad time of year to start looking, be fussy and wait for a good one .

Strut hub and lower arms cheap enough and easier source than bodywork so as long no chassis damage and mount points straight it be pretty easy sort with bit of luck and patience sort right parts at right prices .

don't think I would contemplate a 2008 legacy conversion unless personal project as simply be silly man hours sort out all the problems of that swap. repair of forester probably wiser and used parts if mainly bolt on parts makes some of these right-offs fixed for couple hundred quid. we picked up a SF forester that super tidy besides clipped hedge driver side and all needed was a wing lights and bumper plus driver mirror, was pretty easy get panels right colour too and no painting makes it easy and cheap plus factory quality end result . XT foresters are pretty cheap and not hard find decent, early legacy diesels cheap too as no one wants risk the early ee20 hassles . 2.5 and 3.0 Lecacy/outbacks super cheap too even for super nice examples so can't see it being cost effective concept . review your forester and see if potential easy repair and overall worth the effort . If not look at simpler ways use it or it's parts either from selling or better matched grafting .

that lucky, didn't look at location. good luck ... maybe can sell rear bushes if good from sti arms or keep as spares, might sell for 30-£35 pair

Heres some alloy arms on ebay ... £70 offer maybe ! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Impreza-Alloy-Lower-Arms-Pair-Newage-Wishbones-Bugeye-Blobeye/282767876847

They easy fit so any half decent mechanic do that easy and quick . I would do lower balljoints and swaybar droplinks at same time if funds allow and assuming none already close to new or A1 (not expensive if you source parts ebay) thread on hear about good brand parts .

sorry here your first one lost to car cancer, sg can suffer that in inner rear turrets right at top sides and front lower edge sill end cap. subframes too but bit of waxoil on subframes and suspension points/chassis legs at rear works wonders. Older sf more solid built but harder find good ones these days. hope you get off to good start ..

Yes, all manufacturers should be implementing it as obd2 accessible at the least so owners can operate a tyre change/rotation (for position logged systems) or MOT prep car without ballache tpms long term more ballache than help for basic motorist use, would of been way better implement reluctor sensors in abs data to observe rotational speeds under set parameters of steering angle etc to monitor low pressure via relative rotational speed and leave tpms for haulage vehicles etc .