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Found 9 results

  1. Hi, just hoping to get some help with getting my outback off the driveway and reduce the glares of my neighbours as the alarm wails while I fruitlessly try to fix it. Here's the sequence of events thus far: About six months ago my key fob unlock button became temperamental, working intermittently and not from a distance, replaced battery and no improvement. Switched to other key fob, also gave it a fresh battery for good measure, similar problem. Slowly both the unlock and lock buttons ceased to work, then finally the boot unlock stopped working as well, both fobs. Have been using the manual key to open and lock for the past couple of months, annoying but no problems. Suddenly, yesterday the alarm starts going off intermittently, for about a minute or so then turns off for a couple minutes but the immobiliser has been activated so I'm stuck. I've tried the key turn 3x thing but it's not working. I've tried a lot of variations of key turnings in the ignition and door. I've done a lot of locking and unlocking, hair pulling and growling. Have now just pulled the connection off the battery post for some peace and quiet. In with my useless manual I found something to do with a Thatcham Category 1 alarm immobiliser system legacy 2010 model year onward and a PIN with it but I don't think it will help. Any suggestions that don't involve getting it towed to the local Subaru guy and spending yet another few hundred quid on it would be highly appreciated! Thanks 😊
  2. Hi all, Experiencing an ongoing issue with my '08 Legacy estate: Every couple of months my keys fall out of sync with the car meaning I can't unlock it remotely or deactivate the immobiliser without using the PIN code. Initially I assumed the issue was with the keys, but the local Subaru garage have been through all the normal fixes and the problem persists. Each time they reprogram the keys everything works fine for at most a few months then randomly it's back to square one. Starting to suspect the issue lies with the car rather than the keys? If anyone has any potential insight it would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Joe
  3. Hi. I have seen this problem on a few forums but haven't actually seen a definite fix. Having now fixed mine, I thought I would share what I did. Fault: I have a UK spec 2003 Forester SG (non-turbo). Occasionally, when using the remote to lock or unlock the car, although the right-hand indicator would flash a few times and then go off as normal, the left-hand one would just stay on. At first, when this happened, I would just press the remote a few times until it sorted itself out. As it started to happen more often, it became more and more difficult to get the left-hand indicator to turn off. I looked on various forums and it seemed likely that the fault was due to a sticking relay within the Sigma control unit. Some people said that the unit was around the steering column area, above the pedals. Other people said that it was behind/above the glove-box. On my 2003 right-hand drive Forester, it is above the glove-box, housed in a gold-coloured metal box. I removed the glove-box and left it out until the next time the fault occurred and sure enough, tapping the metal box lightly immediately made the stuck indicator turn off. I removed the metal box and opened it up to reveal the black plastic Sigma unit inside. The cover on the plastic Sigma box is held on with small posi-drive screws. I disconnected the battery at this point but found that it was not strictly necessary, as long as I was careful not to let anything touch the exposed circuitry inside. You can decide for yourself whether you want to take that chance, (but I would not advise disconnecting or reconnecting the Sigma unit wiring while the battery is connected). I removed the cover, to find 3 square relays and one rectangular relay on the printed circuit board. I left it dangling (away from anything that might short anything out) until the fault re-occurred, so that I could try to determine which relay was sticking, by tapping it. The slightest tap on any of the relays would unstick the stuck indicator, so I had to test it with a meter. This is what I found: Identifying the faulty relay and trying to source a replacement: The 3 square relays are mounted in an L shape. The two closest to the edge of the PCB are each for a separate immobiliser circuit. The square relay mounted nearest to the long rectangular (central locking) relay, is the one that operates the indicators. The 3 square relays are identical, all having the same markings and numbers: "OEG OARW- SS-112DM 12VDC 08082 C". I don't know what any of that means, so I asked a local company that produces PCBs and electronic stuff. they couldn't find an equivalent but told me that "OEG" was the manufacturer and that they had been taken over by "TE", an American company. I contacted them with the details and pin dimensions etc. They were useless and offered me the "closest match" which was nothing like the original. I contacted RS-Online, who were honest enough to say that they didn't have anything like it. I contacted Farnell, who put me through to the technical dept and I was given the part number of the only one that was similar, having exactly the same internals and pin lay-out but the pins were slightly further apart. I bought one, thinking that I could mount it remotely from the PCB. luckily, when it arrived, I tested it's operation before fitting it: It was NOT the same internally. A "normal" 5-pin relay, (like the wrong one that Farnell supplied), has a +ve and a -ve connection that operates a coil. when activated, this coil acts as a magnet, that pulls a metal strip away from one contact, (breaking a circuit), and towards another contact, (completing a circuit). The 3 square relays in the Sigma unit don't operate this way. The coil part is the same but when it is activated, it connects 2 circuits at the same time: It connects a common feed to two separate circuits. In the case of the relay used for the indicators, it connects a live feed to the left hand indicators via one pin and the right-hand indicators via another pin, at the same time. Once I discovered this, I realised why someone on a forum somewhere had said that replacement relays were not readily available. My Solution: While checking the various relays and connectors with a meter, I discovered that the square relay nearest the corner of the PCB was not being used. This was confirmed by the fact that there was no wiring to terminals 13 and 14 in the block-connector. Some of the soldered connections are very close to other circuits on the PCB so I employed a local TV repairer who was experienced in working with PCBs: I paid him £10 to remove the faulty indicator relay, then remove the unused relay and solder that in to the place of the indicator relay. I put it back on the car, crossed my fingers and connected everything up: Perfect. Cured. Everything now works as it should (and has done for 3 weeks now). The Sigma M30 is used on various cars, not just Subarus. I assume that on some cars, all the relays are used but it seems that on Subarus, (or at least on mine), as no wiring was fitted to the block connector for that circuit, the associated relay just sits there unused. It's nice of them to supply a spare! If anyone else has this fault and is thinking of doing what I did to cure it, you obviously need to check whether or not that relay is being used. The main connector block has 20 terminals. Holding the PCB with the relays pointing downwards, (hanging under the PCB), and looking into the block-connector from the cable side, terminal number "1" is at the top left. The top row goes from left to right, "1" to "10". the bottom row goes from left to right, "11" to "20". On my car, terminals "3", "4", "13", "14", "18" and "19" had no wires in them. "13" and "14" are for that relay. Other options(?): If you find that you don't have a "spare" relay in your Sigma unit, then I suggest you have 3 options. 1): Buy a new complete unit, (if they are still available). 2): Find a suitable replacement relay (but make absolutely sure that it IS suitable!). I couldn't even find one with the same pin spacing, let alone the same internal circuitry. 3): (This option is not my suggestion. It is what I have seen suggested on a forum somewhere. I did not try this option. I don't know whether it will work or cause other problems. You must decide for yourself). Cut the two indicator output wires a little way from the unit. Insulate the output wire that relates to whichever side indicator is sticking on ("16"=left. "17"=right). Join the one 'good' indicator output wire to the two cut off wires that go into the loom BUT you must do this via two diodes to stop back-feeding from one side indicator to the other, unless you want hazard flashers every time you indicate! Please be aware that, as this is a Thatcham approved alarm, changing it in any way may affect your insurance. (As this is my first post here, any feedback would be appreciated).
  4. Hi all, Had my 07 Impreza 2.0 n/a a while now, no issues with startup or the immobiliser until this morning... Unlocked the car, jumped in and turned the key and got power/electrics, but wouldn't turn over and fire up at all. First thought i could have left it too long and immobiliser armed again, so pressed the key-fob one more time with it in the ignition, still nothing, then i noticed that when i press the key-fob button the red light on the dash flashes once, but doesn't stay on like it used to for the 30/60 seconds whatever it is to give me opportunity to start the car. i also noticed a buzzing sound while I had the key in the ignition at accessory position. Anybody any idea whats going on? Cheers
  5. Hello All. I have recently become the proud owner of a 2006 Outback estate (2.5 petrol, automatic with Auto gas conversion). I am loving the car and being able to fling it about only to find it stick like glue to the road ;) I have a question though. My battery is dead, i have sourced a new one and an going to change it tomorrow. However my car has the cat 1 Thatcham alarm fitted and i am a little concerned about any complications arising from the battery replacement. Also i have read the locking system can be tricky after battery disconnection? Any hints and tips please, Many Thanks, Boo :)
  6. Hello. I'm Roger-M and I've just joined. My interest is in the Outback, as I am on my second one. My first was a red over gold X-reg, 2.5 manual petrol. A beautiful car! My current car is the 2006 SE version of the same, again manual and petrol. The remote key fob on my X-reg was multi button, whilst my current Outback has just a single button. I much preferred the multi button as it was clearly more practical. Why the change? And is it possible to adapt the alarm system on my 2006 model to use a multi button remote fob? i look forward to being a member of the club. Incidentally, do you have a sister club, or a section of this club, that's exclusively for the Outback? Best regards to all. Roger-M.
  7. Hi there, I am new to the Subaru club having bought myself an 05 type uk sti a couple of weeks ago. However have had it stored in the garage as am at university and came back today to a flat battery. Charged battery and gone to connect it then alarm sounds and key does not stop it. Is there anything I can/should do when reconnecting my battery to avoid the alarm going off? If not do you have any ideas of how to fix it? I have tried turning the key whilst alarm going off and the dashboard lights are all flashing and car wouldn't start. Really want to get this sorted as would like to get out in the car but don't want to do anything that would cause settings to change in the alarm system, as if I can't start it I hope nobody else can! I am now already looking into buying a CTEC to trickle charge battery for whilst I'm away from home. Many thanks Kit
  8. Hi everyone. Just bought a Subaru Legacy R Spec B estate. 2006. If I unlock the car then try to start it, nothing happens. I have to re-lock the car then try to start again and this time it's on the button. Is it to do with the immobiliser? Am I NOT doing something? Grateful for any answers.
  9. Hi Everyone, I'm having a miniature nightmare this evening. i currently cannot lock or start my SG 04 forester. i unlocked the car at work with the fob, drove to the dentists, 40 miles away (dont ask) when i got out i trird to open the boot, its a bit sticky, so locked and unlocked the car opened the boot, then when i went to lock it again, nothing. I left the car unlocked and went to the dentist, now im back at the car and i cant get it to start as the fob wont work, i borrowed a battery out a working key, but still no luck! I have all the hand books and the 8 digit key code card, but no idea what the 4 digit immobiliser code is. Has anyone had this problem before? I would try the spare key but its an hour and a half away at my house! Help.
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